R
Rod Speed
Not specifically, except for tracking which is which, as I have
nothing more sophisticated than a microscope for failed disc
analysis (which is not very helpful). So far, the Taiyo Yuden
Japanese CDRs, which are identified as cyanine (type 1) dye,
are the only ones that haven't completely failed on me. I
started using these around 1998, and most are still reading
well, though some are starting to read slowly at the outer
edges of the disc, which is a sign of impending failure.
The discs considered archival back in the old days (Mitsui,
Ricoh/KAO, Kodak Gold/Silver - Phthalocyanine (Type 5)) have
all died or are very near dead. I mostly used these prior to 1998,
I havent got anything like that result, no failures at all in fact
over that time. That was with an HP 7200i burner initially.
I mostly used Kodak Golds while they were still available
and then used the purportedly archival qualify Kodaks after
they stopped being available. And used some of the others too.
What burner were you using at that time ?
when I switched over to the TYs almost exclusively due to failures.
I also started recording at half max burner speed, so the post-98
data has different initial conditions than earlier data. Likewise,
discs identified as cyanine (type 0) all failed early on, and include
such bottom-feeder manufacturers as CMC, so I assume there's
a big difference between cyanine types 0 and 1.
It's made much more complicated by the fact that dye layers
and reflective coatings are constantly being changed by the
manufacturers, and even if my 2000 TY discs are still fine,
it doesn't mean that TY discs I burn today will be good in
5 years. Accelerated testing results are useless here, IMO.
I just assume all CDRs and DVDs I burn will fail somewhere
between 2 and 5 years out, and it saves me quite a lot of worry.
I did use dupes for anything that mattered, and never lost any.