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Carfully pull it apart, after removing two? screws om each side. I have a lot better luck using the firewire cable then the usb
theowl007 said:
i-Buddie 4 Desknote Review
- Thread starter Ian
- Start date
I found the answer to my previous question. I'll post the answer in case anyone else may ever need it.
The DeskNote harddrive is a TOSHIBA, my 40GB is specifically the TOSHIBA MK4018GAP. The harddrive in master mode by default, that is, the open configuration is master.
Here is the harddrive manual:
www.pbparts.com/docs/Tosh-details.pdf
The DeskNote harddrive is a TOSHIBA, my 40GB is specifically the TOSHIBA MK4018GAP. The harddrive in master mode by default, that is, the open configuration is master.
Here is the harddrive manual:
www.pbparts.com/docs/Tosh-details.pdf
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Hi Guys,
As can be seen from my previous postings my i-buddie has been out of order with the usual melted plug! I am planning to send mine to David Cai but would like to find out if there are any of you out there from Europe that have had yours repaired by David as I would like to find out how you sent it - as after speaking with the post office here in Austria, they said that I would be charged customs tax no matter what so I would like to find out how I can avoid this! Anything that you have to offer is warmly appreciated especially that most EU countires "should" have the same regulations! ;-)
Thanks again!
As can be seen from my previous postings my i-buddie has been out of order with the usual melted plug! I am planning to send mine to David Cai but would like to find out if there are any of you out there from Europe that have had yours repaired by David as I would like to find out how you sent it - as after speaking with the post office here in Austria, they said that I would be charged customs tax no matter what so I would like to find out how I can avoid this! Anything that you have to offer is warmly appreciated especially that most EU countires "should" have the same regulations! ;-)
Thanks again!
About the customs tax
I know some people would worry the customs tax.
I think it is the best way you ship this machine via Post-office without any insurance but with the register. The shipping fee will be cheapest. Please note this one as a DEFECTIVE computer for repairing and put the value only US$10.00 . Because I have to pay 15% Canadian customs fee and brokerage when I receive it if the good value is over CA$15.00 (about US$12.00). This is a Canadian rule. I always let all of my foreign customers ship me A928 for repairing just on this method, then so far no any extra cost.
Don't ship via UPS or DHL. The customs brokerage is CA$27.60 or more if ship by them. They are not under the government, so the international cost is too high.
I do professional job to repair laptops in Toronto, Canada. All of my repair works will get 30 days warranty. I can repair and send back in 3 days after receiving package and payment. You may pay me via Paypal after repairing.
Regards,
David
DC SYSTEM, Tel: (416) 788-6788 E-mail: (e-mail address removed)
I know some people would worry the customs tax.
I think it is the best way you ship this machine via Post-office without any insurance but with the register. The shipping fee will be cheapest. Please note this one as a DEFECTIVE computer for repairing and put the value only US$10.00 . Because I have to pay 15% Canadian customs fee and brokerage when I receive it if the good value is over CA$15.00 (about US$12.00). This is a Canadian rule. I always let all of my foreign customers ship me A928 for repairing just on this method, then so far no any extra cost.
Don't ship via UPS or DHL. The customs brokerage is CA$27.60 or more if ship by them. They are not under the government, so the international cost is too high.
I do professional job to repair laptops in Toronto, Canada. All of my repair works will get 30 days warranty. I can repair and send back in 3 days after receiving package and payment. You may pay me via Paypal after repairing.
Regards,
David
DC SYSTEM, Tel: (416) 788-6788 E-mail: (e-mail address removed)
xander said:
Shipping
Some Euro users took out the LCD screen, the hard drive and the CPU heat sink from the top and back sides of the desknote before shipping to me, then it is a parts only, could save the shipping fee a lot. But it is not big different from USA. I suggest keep the machine case and the keyboard when you ship it.
Don't try to change the power jack of the mainboard to another kind of power connection. Some cases already got the other mainboard problem which I am still finding the solution.
David Cai
Some Euro users took out the LCD screen, the hard drive and the CPU heat sink from the top and back sides of the desknote before shipping to me, then it is a parts only, could save the shipping fee a lot. But it is not big different from USA. I suggest keep the machine case and the keyboard when you ship it.
Don't try to change the power jack of the mainboard to another kind of power connection. Some cases already got the other mainboard problem which I am still finding the solution.
David Cai
xander said:
I have an A929 with melted plugs and sockets. Here's what I've figured out so far:
*The ground pin is the top-center one in the triangle of three pins.
*The melting ground pin is not caused by a hot processor or a poor cooling fan (although those may aggrivate the situation). There are soft plastic parts in-between the other hot parts of the computer and the power connector that would melt first if that were the case.
*The problem is the poor design of the power socket in the computer and in the battery (if you have one). Any wiggling of the ground pin causes it to break the metal-to-metal connection in the back so that contact is only maintained by the molded plastic holding very small contact points together. This causes a high heat buildup and arcing (sparks) at the back of the socket, which melts the plastic and allows the pin to come out.
*The two other pins are connected to each other in the computer power socket, but not in the battery power socket. This enables the system to determine if the power adapter is connedted to the computer, the battery is connected to the computer or both are daisy-chained to the computer.
*The ground pin is the top-center one in the triangle of three pins.
*The melting ground pin is not caused by a hot processor or a poor cooling fan (although those may aggrivate the situation). There are soft plastic parts in-between the other hot parts of the computer and the power connector that would melt first if that were the case.
*The problem is the poor design of the power socket in the computer and in the battery (if you have one). Any wiggling of the ground pin causes it to break the metal-to-metal connection in the back so that contact is only maintained by the molded plastic holding very small contact points together. This causes a high heat buildup and arcing (sparks) at the back of the socket, which melts the plastic and allows the pin to come out.
*The two other pins are connected to each other in the computer power socket, but not in the battery power socket. This enables the system to determine if the power adapter is connedted to the computer, the battery is connected to the computer or both are daisy-chained to the computer.
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I just got my laptop back from David Cai in Ontario CA and wa running fine for a couple of days and when the system kept rebooting. So I decied to do a fresh install and when I get to the end to setup for repartion in NTFS it reboots. After working with it all day I finaly got it repartioned but it will not load windows XP. Is a virus and if so hoe do I get rid of it under using Dos.
No error mesages, just keeps rebooting for no reason. It did it when windows xp was already installed and I tried everything to get it to stop. I even whent into advance under system properties settings and unchcked the automatic restart box and still rebooted. So I tried loading windows xp fresh start and it wouldn't even let me reformat the hard drive. So I used delpart and deleted the partion and and tried to load windos 98 still kept rebooting. Then I tried win 2000, still rbooting right in the middle of installation and it was messing up the install. So I finally got it were I could repartion the Hard Drive and atempt to reload windows xp on it. I finally got win xp loaded but not before it rebooting 15 or 20 times and putting in the registration key in at least that many times. So there you have it. Now I have tried to install service pack2 and it keeps crashing. Anybody have any suggestions.
No error mesages, just keeps rebooting for no reason. It did it when windows xp was already installed and I tried everything to get it to stop. I even whent into advance under system properties settings and unchcked the automatic restart box and still rebooted. So I tried loading windows xp fresh start and it wouldn't even let me reformat the hard drive. So I used delpart and deleted the partion and and tried to load windos 98 still kept rebooting. Then I tried win 2000, still rbooting right in the middle of installation and it was messing up the install. So I finally got it were I could repartion the Hard Drive and atempt to reload windows xp on it. I finally got win xp loaded but not before it rebooting 15 or 20 times and putting in the registration key in at least that many times. So there you have it. Now I have tried to install service pack2 and it keeps crashing. Anybody have any suggestions.
New Problem
Has anyone had trouble with their cd drive? Ever since I got my A-928 two years ago, I have not been very satisfied with the QSI DVD/CDRW SBW-081 drive. When I first got it, it would not burn CDs right so I had to uninstall and reinstall the bundled burner (Roxio Easy CD Creator 5). Another problem was that it would almost always have problems with commercial movie DVDs. It would play fine for the first 45 min or so, but then it would skip and jump. I think this may have been due to the dual layered DVDs. Anyway, this past month it stopped reading regular CDs altogether. It does not matter if it is CD-R, RW, or commercial, it blinks the green light for about 8 seconds and then nothing happens. I go to Explorer and there is nothing listed for the drive. I have tried removing and reinstalling the driver, removing and cleaning the physical drive, and using Nero Burning Rom 6. I still have problems. Please help me! What is the deal? Cheers.
PS I also had the melting plug problem one month before the warrantee ran out. My distributor had a hard time convinced the slobs at ECS that they should still fix it. Thankfully I have not had trouble since then. I always, literally always, keep a fan running on my computer. This is also because the average temp here in Malawi is about 85 F. I am thinking about sending it to David but the shipping would be a gamble.
Has anyone had trouble with their cd drive? Ever since I got my A-928 two years ago, I have not been very satisfied with the QSI DVD/CDRW SBW-081 drive. When I first got it, it would not burn CDs right so I had to uninstall and reinstall the bundled burner (Roxio Easy CD Creator 5). Another problem was that it would almost always have problems with commercial movie DVDs. It would play fine for the first 45 min or so, but then it would skip and jump. I think this may have been due to the dual layered DVDs. Anyway, this past month it stopped reading regular CDs altogether. It does not matter if it is CD-R, RW, or commercial, it blinks the green light for about 8 seconds and then nothing happens. I go to Explorer and there is nothing listed for the drive. I have tried removing and reinstalling the driver, removing and cleaning the physical drive, and using Nero Burning Rom 6. I still have problems. Please help me! What is the deal? Cheers.
PS I also had the melting plug problem one month before the warrantee ran out. My distributor had a hard time convinced the slobs at ECS that they should still fix it. Thankfully I have not had trouble since then. I always, literally always, keep a fan running on my computer. This is also because the average temp here in Malawi is about 85 F. I am thinking about sending it to David but the shipping would be a gamble.
Ok I'll try to go throught all the screws that are in the laptop next time I open the laptop (haven't needed to in the last 1.5 years since the fix) I will take closer pictures.
We'll proceed around sections of the case in efforts to keep things simple
Around the Case Underside clockwise
Ram section
CD-ROM Section
Hard drive
CPU Section
LCD Panel
Keyboard Section
At this point your laptop should be openable don't force it the laptop should open freely from what I remember.
Hope this helps post you have any more questions (you might need to pm or email me to get my attention).
Vortex-5
We'll proceed around sections of the case in efforts to keep things simple
Around the Case Underside clockwise
Starting from the corner of the laptop closest to the sticker
remove 1 screw from the corner proceed in a clockwise direction now
remove the 2 screws next to the usb ports
remove the 1 screw in the center (next to the svga port)
remove 2 screws next to the cpu port
remove 1 screw next to the IEEE1394 port
remove the final underside screw on the corner
remove the 2 screws next to the usb ports
remove the 1 screw in the center (next to the svga port)
remove 2 screws next to the cpu port
remove 1 screw next to the IEEE1394 port
remove the final underside screw on the corner
Ram section
remove 2 screws on the ram holder
under the ram cover remove 1 more screw under the metal ram shield
under that remove 2 more additional screws that attack to the case
under the ram cover remove 1 more screw under the metal ram shield
under that remove 2 more additional screws that attack to the case
CD-ROM Section
remove the tree screws that hold the dvd-rom
remove the dvd-rom drive by sliding it out
remove 3 screws under the dvd-rom drive
remove the dvd-rom drive by sliding it out
remove 3 screws under the dvd-rom drive
Hard drive
remove 2 screws from hard drive
remove hard drive
(can't remember if there where more screws here)
remove hard drive
(can't remember if there where more screws here)
CPU Section
Remove 1 screw from the CPU cover (if your careful you don't need to remove the cpu)
otherwise remove the CPU but removing the 4 screws that hold it then unseat the CPU by flipping the switch store your CPU in a safe place it's sensitive!
otherwise remove the CPU but removing the 4 screws that hold it then unseat the CPU by flipping the switch store your CPU in a safe place it's sensitive!
LCD Panel
WARNING THIS MUST BE REMOVED VERY CAREFULLY
It is located at the bottom of the LCD panel
It is located at the bottom of the LCD panel
Unclip the two clips you can do this by sticking a screw driver under the clips and slowly pry (very slowly from the side where the ports are)
Once the clips are uncliped you have 4 screws under the panel to remove
Now uncover the plastic piece where your hard drive caps lock num lock indicators are
I forgot how many screws you can find underneath this section but be sure to uncover all of them
Remember to unplug both cables from the LCD panel before you attempt to separate the LCD
Once the clips are uncliped you have 4 screws under the panel to remove
Now uncover the plastic piece where your hard drive caps lock num lock indicators are
I forgot how many screws you can find underneath this section but be sure to uncover all of them
Remember to unplug both cables from the LCD panel before you attempt to separate the LCD
Keyboard Section
WARNING THIS ALSO MUST BE DONE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO SEPARATE THE CASE
Right between the end and right cursorthere's a section you can pry to begin to release the keyboard.
Grab a paperclip and begin working your way along the bottom until you get to the space bar
DO NOT GO PAST THE SPACE BAR
There's a keyboard connector wire right where the space bar is if you go past it you might risk breaking it.
Take a philips screw driver and press against the clips to until you fully unseat the remainder of the keyboard.
Unclip the wire and remove the keyboard.
Grab a paperclip and begin working your way along the bottom until you get to the space bar
DO NOT GO PAST THE SPACE BAR
There's a keyboard connector wire right where the space bar is if you go past it you might risk breaking it.
Take a philips screw driver and press against the clips to until you fully unseat the remainder of the keyboard.
Unclip the wire and remove the keyboard.
MORE SCREWS YAY!
under the keyboard you will find 3 screws one of which is underneath a warranty void sticker.
under the keyboard you will find 3 screws one of which is underneath a warranty void sticker.
At this point your laptop should be openable don't force it the laptop should open freely from what I remember.
Hope this helps post you have any more questions (you might need to pm or email me to get my attention).
Vortex-5
Hello, my name is Frank and I need a external battery for a micro pro desk note computer 5004-w. Can anyone tell me where I can purchase one from. e-mail me :[email protected]
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i-Buddie A928 power problems FIXED!!!
This is to all the members and visitors to pc-review:
I just sent my i-Buddie to David Cai, in Toronto. The grounding pin had fallen out of mine several times, and i fixed it over and over, but it never stayed fixed! So I sent it to him on a Thursday, and I got it back on the following Monday, talk about FAST!!
All seems to be well with it, he made modifications to the mainboard, and he even soldered in the grounding pin that had fallen out on me!
Here is his email, I highly, HIGHLY , recommend him.
(e-mail address removed)
This yet again reaffirms the fact that it is the mainboard that is the problem!
-William
This is to all the members and visitors to pc-review:
I just sent my i-Buddie to David Cai, in Toronto. The grounding pin had fallen out of mine several times, and i fixed it over and over, but it never stayed fixed! So I sent it to him on a Thursday, and I got it back on the following Monday, talk about FAST!!
All seems to be well with it, he made modifications to the mainboard, and he even soldered in the grounding pin that had fallen out on me!
Here is his email, I highly, HIGHLY , recommend him.
(e-mail address removed)
This yet again reaffirms the fact that it is the mainboard that is the problem!
-William
I'm the lucky one here, living only a 30 minute drive away from David Cai's business. Took my 928 in this afternoon and am up and computing this evening. His service is very professional and a gentleman to meet. He also was able to upgrade my RAM for a very reasonable price. His service is highly recommended especially if you plan on using your 928 for more than a doorstop. G.Rice Toronto
A928 vs. DC Systems
Just wanted to you all to know that there is another very satisfied customer of DC Systems. David Cai fixed my 2- A928's and returned them to me in a timely manner. The work was outstanding and the service was great too. If any of you need work done on your A928, give David Cai with DC systems a call or send him an e-mail. He is very good at getting back with you and will do quality work for a great price.
wcranford.....
David Cai [[email protected]]
Just wanted to you all to know that there is another very satisfied customer of DC Systems. David Cai fixed my 2- A928's and returned them to me in a timely manner. The work was outstanding and the service was great too. If any of you need work done on your A928, give David Cai with DC systems a call or send him an e-mail. He is very good at getting back with you and will do quality work for a great price.
wcranford.....
David Cai [[email protected]]
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hmmm there still using that laptop ahhahahahah Well what can you do must be good with the melting problem 
David Cai fixes another A928
I've been using my A928 for about a week after receiving it back from David Cai (416 788 6788). It has behaved perfectly and I have left it running for long periods of time (4-6 hours) with no hint of the hot plug that I was experiencing. He took a non-booting laptop with the plug melted into the socket and returned it to me working beautifully. Before you give up on your computer, try David.
I've been using my A928 for about a week after receiving it back from David Cai (416 788 6788). It has behaved perfectly and I have left it running for long periods of time (4-6 hours) with no hint of the hot plug that I was experiencing. He took a non-booting laptop with the plug melted into the socket and returned it to me working beautifully. Before you give up on your computer, try David.
Fixing the power problem
I have an A928 with the power problem (melted plug). Anyways it seems that David Cai fixes something on the motherboard that prevents it from drawing so much power. What I want to find out is what he fixes ? I am now contemplating the use of an alternate connector like BNC or something. I saw someone earlier in this post , post some pictures about how someone replaced thier connector with another one. ..
I have an A928 with the power problem (melted plug). Anyways it seems that David Cai fixes something on the motherboard that prevents it from drawing so much power. What I want to find out is what he fixes ? I am now contemplating the use of an alternate connector like BNC or something. I saw someone earlier in this post , post some pictures about how someone replaced thier connector with another one. ..
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Hey guys, i wrote here a while back with an ibuddie4 a928 power failure; couldn't fix it myself, and ECS wouldn't even talk to me, so i decided to chance it and send it to Mr. David Cai. After the initial shipping time, Mr. Cai easily repaired my problem and a plethora of others for just U.S.$170.00. He's very professional and reasonably priced; i highly suggest that you send your damaged computers to him for a quick, no-headache repair.
B.W
(Thanks Mr. Cai)
B.W
(Thanks Mr. Cai)
No more worries
I had read through this thread and was glad that I had had my iBuddie fixed under warranty a year ago. I thought it couldn't happen to me again. Well, just about a month ago, I saw that the plug was just starting to crack (from the heat). I got in contact with David Cai and he confirmed that it could melt anytime. I live here in Africa and it isn't the easiest place from which to send things to North America. Thankfully, I had a friend going to the States who could hand carry the laptop for me. Even though he was only there two weeks (and he is still there, due to return this Saturday), I knew that I had to get it to David. David bent over backwards to fix it quickly (same day it arrived) and to send it back to my friend. Even though I don't have it yet, I know that it will work. He is hard working and thorough. If anyone is contemplating fixing it on your own (I did), save yourself the time and hassle and send it to David. If you need help knowing which screws to remove, just send me a note at end at malawi-mission dot org.
Thanks David!!
umiwangu
I had read through this thread and was glad that I had had my iBuddie fixed under warranty a year ago. I thought it couldn't happen to me again. Well, just about a month ago, I saw that the plug was just starting to crack (from the heat). I got in contact with David Cai and he confirmed that it could melt anytime. I live here in Africa and it isn't the easiest place from which to send things to North America. Thankfully, I had a friend going to the States who could hand carry the laptop for me. Even though he was only there two weeks (and he is still there, due to return this Saturday), I knew that I had to get it to David. David bent over backwards to fix it quickly (same day it arrived) and to send it back to my friend. Even though I don't have it yet, I know that it will work. He is hard working and thorough. If anyone is contemplating fixing it on your own (I did), save yourself the time and hassle and send it to David. If you need help knowing which screws to remove, just send me a note at end at malawi-mission dot org.
Thanks David!!
umiwangu
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