HP inkjets for homemade business cards using Word->FM templates

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous, Kinda
  • Start date Start date
Anonymous said:
Burt wrote: (snip)

As you can see, when one does this at home for the first time, it is
not just a matter of belting out large quantities on the first try.
I've done that using the local print shop, before realizing that my
needs were different. I now have a backlog of various drafts of my
calling card, which I no longer wish to use since the format and
content has evolved significantly with greater knowledge. Once I get
a method which works for my circumstance, though, I certainly will
belt them out without too much thought. And I will have no qualms
about saving people some trouble by sharing what I've learned. Since
this thread has been captured by google forever, however, there is
probably no need to worry about that.

I do appreciate the problem solving issues you have noted. I also do very
small quantities of business cards at a time so they can be changed as
needed. I do them on an old HP5p laser and, because of the thickness of the
card stock, I have to feed it through one sheet at a time and slightly force
it into the feed pickup, but it works great. This printer has a nearly
straight paper path when using the drop-down paper feed area and opening a
rear paper exit tray. I'm blessed with more space than you apparently have.
My paper cutter is an 11 inch guillotine model that I've had for 40 years
from working in my darkroom. I've found that it cuts straight as long as I
hold the paper stock down firmly. It has been used extensively but still
has a very sharp blade that makes a clean cut. The blade is spring loaded
and can be adjusted. It was not an expensive unit when I bought it at a
photo supply firm, but I don't have a clue as to what it would cost now.
 
Burt said:
What I've found, being a novice in the paper area,

You are also a novice in the ink area
is that different types
of stock have a different level of stiffness and feel for equivalent
"weight" - i.e. 80 lb. The Wasau 80# COVER was a decent weight for cards in
my estimation. In San Francisco you can go to Kelly paper company, a firm
that sells primarily to printers, and buy a few sheets of any paper they
have as samples to try. I don't know what firms there are in your area, but
generally speaking, stores like office depot

where you can buy OEM ink for your printer
 
Burt said:
What I've found, being a novice in the paper area, is that different types
of stock have a different level of stiffness and feel for equivalent
"weight" - i.e. 80 lb. The Wasau 80# COVER was a decent weight for cards in
my estimation. In San Francisco you can go to Kelly paper company, a firm
that sells primarily to printers, and buy a few sheets of any paper they
have as samples to try. I don't know what firms there are in your area, but
generally speaking, stores like office depot and some of the copy shops have
a fairly limited selection. The printing industry and the companies that
cater to them have a very broad selection.

True ... very true. Your best bet in the USofA would be either Kelly Paper
Company or Xpedx. Both have local outlets in most major cities, and a
*much* better selection than any stationary store. Think 100,000 square
foot warehouse ... full of all kinds of paper products!

Kelly Paper Company
http://www.kellypaper.com/

Xpedx
http://www.xpedx.com/paper/default.asp
 
RSD99 wrote on Jul 27, 8:24pm
For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an
Xacto #11 Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00)

For printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on
"Kirkland Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright
glossy surface, Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ...
or about 0.15 per sheet).


Hi, RSD99,

I find that using a blade & a straight edge works well with Dave C.'s
cut marks. I'm cutting on a wooden chopping board. When you do it,
is there a better surface to use besides wood? That tends to dull the
blade quickly, which really needs to be sharp to have clean edges.
Thanks.
 
I still favor a good solid paper cutter with finely done marking for inches and
fractioons plus a rock-steady hand. The paper cutter never needs sharpening
and I strengthen my hand lifting cans of beer... Ben Myers
 
RSD99 wrote on Jul 27, 8:24pm
For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an
Xacto #11 Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00) For
printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on "Kirkland
Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright glossy
surface, Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ... or
about 0.15 per sheet).

(e-mail address removed) wrote on Aug 14, 12:17pm:
I find that using a blade & a straight edge works well with Dave
C.'s cut marks. I'm cutting on a wooden chopping board. When you
do it, is there a better surface to use besides wood? That tends to
dull the blade quickly, which really needs to be sharp to have clean
edges.

Ben Myers wrote on Aug 14, 1:23pm:
I still favor a good solid paper cutter with finely done marking for
inches and fractioons plus a rock-steady hand. The paper cutter
never needs sharpening and I strengthen my hand lifting cans of
beer... Ben Myers

Solid paper cutter is still an option. I'm just trying this
lower-cost method first. Seems to work OK. Just wondering if there's
a better surface to cut on.

Whenever I try to strengthen my hand by lifting cans of beer, I get a
beer gut.
 
I find that using a blade & a straight edge works well with Dave C.'s
cut marks. I'm cutting on a wooden chopping board. When you do it,
is there a better surface to use besides wood? That tends to dull the
blade quickly, which really needs to be sharp to have clean edges.
Thanks.

A plastic cutting board from stationery or art supply shops is
designed for this exactly.
 
RSD99 wrote on Jul 27, 8:24pm



(e-mail address removed) wrote on Aug 14, 12:17pm:



Ben Myers wrote on Aug 14, 1:23pm:



Solid paper cutter is still an option. I'm just trying this
lower-cost method first. Seems to work OK. Just wondering if there's
a better surface to cut on.

Whenever I try to strengthen my hand by lifting cans of beer, I get a
beer gut.
A rotary matt board may be your best choice for low-cost method. You can
get them at most craft/hobby stores. They're mostly designed to work
with rotary cutters, but I think you use a regular straight edge blade.
 
Alan said:
A plastic cutting board from stationery or art supply shops is
designed for this exactly.

Bingo ... I've got several of them ... they're less than US$10 each.
 
Elizabeth said:
A rotary matt board may be your best choice for low-cost method. You can
get them at most craft/hobby stores. They're mostly designed to work
with rotary cutters, but I think you use a regular straight edge blade.

Yes, I talked to an arts supply store, and they recommended The
Cutting Mat, imported by Selectum. "A semi-hard rubber -like surface
which allows the cutter to bite into it; yet the cut will miraculously
heal, almost as soon as it is made."

Thanks.
 
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