HP inkjets for homemade business cards using Word->FM templates

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous, Kinda
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I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2 inches
apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card stock. Then print
business cards using software of your choice (Word, Publisher, etc.). With
a razor knife and a straight edge, I cut the cards out using the tic marks
as a cutting guide.

I can send you this simple file if you email me.

Regards,

--
Dave C.

(e-mail address removed)9et

Remove the five 9's (leave the 4) for email.
 
Dave said:
I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
(Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.

Dave,

Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
appreciate your offer.
 
You're welcome

--
Dave C.

(e-mail address removed)9et

Remove the five 9's (leave the 4) for email.
 
Dave said:
I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
(Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.

Anonymous said:
Dave, Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
appreciate your offer.
You're welcome -- Dave C.

Hi, Dave,

I think I spoke too soon. I'm having trouble envisioning where you might
put these cut marks so that they don't actually run along the edges of the
cut (as in cutted) cards. The only way I can see that happening is if the
cards are not abutted. Is that how you've done it? If so, I can come up
with a pattern of cut marks, but it allows fewer cards per sheet then
abutted cards. The waste paper surrounding each card will also be slim,
but that might not be a problem.

If the cards *are* abutted -- say 10-up, in 2 columns of 5 -- then one
might leave cut marks at the margins surrounding the 10-card
aggretate. But the moment you make a cut, some of the cut pieces will
be missing cut marks either at the starting or ending points of the
cut.

For abutted cards, I can deal with the problem of missing cut marks in
the margins by projecting the cut marks into the 10-card aggregate
(along the edges of the individual cards), but this creates an erratic
shadow along the edge of each card.

Thanks for letting me know. If you have the template, could you
please send it to me at (e-mail address removed) (Remove the three 4's)?
Thanks!

P.S. According to the specs for the printer (HP PSC750), it can print
on 110 lb paper, but it seems to smear. Probably too close to the
ink nozzels. I tried to buy a few sheets of next lighter paper from
the local copy shop, and it works great, but the paper is *way*
lighter than 110 lb. Even though they said it was 90 lb, I can't see
that -- the Avery clean-edge cards have stiffness between the 110 lb
and "90 lb", and there is noticable difference between them. I will
contact them to see if they might have grabbed the wrong paper.
Everything is closed down for today and tomorrow though (Canadian
holiday).
 
Anonymous said:
I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.

1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
preserved?

2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
normally.

I'm not sure what benefit you derive by reinventing the wheel. The MS word
or Wordperfect avery business card templates have a know waste margin on all
sides and are abutted with no waste between them. With any papercutter that
has a decent measuring device or guide on it you don't need the cut marks.
Simply use the ruler guide to cut off the waste all the way around and then
use the guide to cut the cards apart. After you cut the first few sheets
you will not even have to think the measurements through. If you are off by
a hair it really doesn't matter. No one is going to hold one card next to
the other to be certain that you cut them absolutely perfectly. Very, very,
very close is good enough. You can incorporate graphics by importing them
if you wish. If you want something other than straight text you can compose
a file in photoshop or any other program that can manipulate text, save the
file, and import it into the Word or WP page once the format is set to the
avery business card template. It can be resized, moved, and copied mulitple
times to fill out all the slots in the template. Very short learning curve
in either program.

I don't mean to appear mean-spirited when I say that by the time you have
thought the problem through, communicated with several very well meaning
and capable people on this NG, and gone back to the computer to put all this
newfound knowledge to work, you could have printed and cut a few hundred
cards, several times over! Of course, this discounts the intellectual
challange to do it in a different manner with other software, and I do
recognize the pleasure of figuring out something yourself rather than
following a well-worn, beaten path. For many of us the journey is as
important as reaching the destination.
 
Ben said:
Hammermill "Signs and Notices" 54 lb stock is plenty heavy for my use.
... Ben Myers


The cardstock I got is 65 lb. Seems flimsy. Not that it necessarily
matters. The only thing that matters is how it comes across to the
person receiving it. I can only guess what what that may be based on
my own impression. Now I have your impression as a "data point" too.
Thanks.
 
Anonymous said:
The cardstock I got is 65 lb. Seems flimsy. Not that it necessarily
matters. The only thing that matters is how it comes across to the
person receiving it. I can only guess what what that may be based on
my own impression. Now I have your impression as a "data point" too.
Thanks.

Have you tried Wasau 80# cover? works fine in my printers.
 
Burt said:
I'm not sure what benefit you derive by reinventing the wheel. The MS word
or Wordperfect avery business card templates have a know waste margin on all
sides and are abutted with no waste between them. With any papercutter that
has a decent measuring device or guide on it you don't need the cut marks.
Simply use the ruler guide to cut off the waste all the way around and then
use the guide to cut the cards apart. After you cut the first few sheets
you will not even have to think the measurements through. If you are off by
a hair it really doesn't matter. No one is going to hold one card next to
the other to be certain that you cut them absolutely perfectly. Very, very,
very close is good enough. You can incorporate graphics by importing them
if you wish. If you want something other than straight text you can compose
a file in photoshop or any other program that can manipulate text, save the
file, and import it into the Word or WP page once the format is set to the
avery business card template. It can be resized, moved, and copied mulitple
times to fill out all the slots in the template. Very short learning curve
in either program.

I don't mean to appear mean-spirited

Why don't you recognize what you are.
 
Burt said:
I'm not sure what benefit you derive by reinventing the wheel. The MS word
or Wordperfect avery business card templates have a know waste margin on all
sides and are abutted with no waste between them. With any papercutter that
has a decent measuring device or guide on it you don't need the cut marks.
Simply use the ruler guide to cut off the waste all the way around and then
use the guide to cut the cards apart. After you cut the first few sheets
you will not even have to think the measurements through. If you are off by
a hair it really doesn't matter. No one is going to hold one card next to
the other to be certain that you cut them absolutely perfectly. Very, very,
very close is good enough.

I realize I'm reinventing the wheel, but from past experience, I know
how much difference it makes for me to use FM versus Word. With FM, I
don't have to think about how to do things, I just think about what
visual effect I want to achieve. With Word, I'm spending all my time
wrestling to achieve every single effect, and no energy left to
contemplate how I might want to change the look. Besides, I've found
that duplicating the margins and layout of the Word template is not
hard.
You can incorporate graphics by importing them
if you wish. If you want something other than straight text you can compose
a file in photoshop or any other program that can manipulate text, save the
file, and import it into the Word or WP page once the format is set to the
avery business card template. It can be resized, moved, and copied mulitple
times to fill out all the slots in the template. Very short learning curve
in either program.

It's just me. I've used FM too long. I've done huge technical reports with
Word, with technical drawings, and incorporated huge sections from other
authors (repairing all cross-references in doing so), but feel much more
comfortable with FM. I'm glad to find that it's not really an issue, and
didn't take an inordinant amount of time.
I don't mean to appear mean-spirited when I say that by the time you have
thought the problem through, communicated with several very well meaning
and capable people on this NG, and gone back to the computer to put all this
newfound knowledge to work, you could have printed and cut a few hundred
cards, several times over! Of course, this discounts the intellectual
challange to do it in a different manner with other software, and I do
recognize the pleasure of figuring out something yourself rather than
following a well-worn, beaten path. For many of us the journey is as
important as reaching the destination.

You don't sound mean-spirited, though you are presuming my
motivations. The original problem described at the top was resolved
very quickly, and I am now resolving other issues which would
certainly have gotten in the way of making a few hundred cards several
times over. If I just wanted mass quantities, I could simply do it up
in FM and send the PDF to the print shop. It's pretty cheap. Instead,
I want to find a replacement for my current method, which is small
batches of constantly evolving cards, done on expensive Avery precut
cards by an outfit with access to a laser printer. It is too
expensive to simply choose any old way and "just do it" to find out
whether it works. Doing small batches at the local copy shop is
prohibitively expensive and would not give me the quick turnaround
time of doing it at home.

Another example of expense is the paper cutter; in my town, they cost
anywhere between $20 and $120. Which one to buy? Would the smaller
ones break down after a few weeks of thick paper? Are they so flimsy
that they leave unsharp edges? The size is also important, as I will
have a hard time finding space to store the bigger leaver-based
cutters in my apartment, even though they look like they are heftier.
Will the leaver design cause the paper to move as you cut, like the
big ones at school? Even assuming the store takes back an unsuitable
cutter, it takes time to constantly commute to the retail outlet to
try different models until I get the right one (and I'm sure it
wouldn't make them happy). Contrary to the impression I get from your
reply, the suggestions presented in this newsgroup represent valuable,
much-needed information e.g. cutter manufacturer and clues to its
model, as well as the alternative of using a sharp exacto-knife and
steel straight edge. Experimentation shows that it works like a
charm, circumvents uncertainties with the cutters. The whole point of
asking for this information was to *not* reinvent the wheel -- others
have been down this road before.

Aside from the cutter, I'm still answering the question of whether my
inkjet can print good enough. If it isn't good enough, I still have
to use Avery cards. The inkjet prints fine on 20 lb paper, but smears
on 110 lb paper. Good thing I didn't "just do it" by buying an entire
batch of that paper. As an alternative, I was given "card stock" to
try, which was described as approximately 90 lb -- it is actually 65
lb, and seems flimsy. How much does it matter? Subjectively, it
seems to make a difference to me. Do they have intermediate weights
that they can sell me several sheets of so that I can try them before
purchasing a whole package? More commuting, but if they have other
weights, I will purchase several sheets of each weight to avoid having
to go back so often. The goal is to get the heaviest weight that
won't smear.

As you can see, when one does this at home for the first time, it is
not just a matter of belting out large quantities on the first try.
I've done that using the local print shop, before realizing that my
needs were different. I now have a backlog of various drafts of my
calling card, which I no longer wish to use since the format and
content has evolved significantly with greater knowledge. Once I get
a method which works for my circumstance, though, I certainly will
belt them out without too much thought. And I will have no qualms
about saving people some trouble by sharing what I've learned. Since
this thread has been captured by google forever, however, there is
probably no need to worry about that.
 
Burt said:
Have you tried Wasau 80# cover? works fine in my printers.

Mines is an HP PSC 750 inkjet. I will see if the copy shop have other
weights that they can sell sample quantities of. I thought the sheets
of "card stock" they sold me today was 90 lb (that's what they said).
But it was so flimsy, even as a 3.5"x2" card, that I googled "card stock";
I found that it is actually 65 lb. If necessary, I'll phone around to
various copy shops to see if they have demo cards of various weight so
that I can just drop by see which one that seems reasonably sturdy.
Many stores are closed tomorrow, though, due to the holiday.
 
Burt said:
The MS word
or Wordperfect avery business card templates have a know waste margin on all
sides and are abutted with no waste between them. With any papercutter that
has a decent measuring device or guide on it you don't need the cut marks.
Simply use the ruler guide to cut off the waste all the way around and then
use the guide to cut the cards apart. After you cut the first few sheets
you will not even have to think the measurements through. If you are off by
a hair it really doesn't matter.

Oh, yeah, thanks for this. The reason why I like cut marks is that I have an
inherent distrust of the repeatability of absolute print positioning. Not sure
where it comes from, though it was mentioned a bit earlier in this group that
some printers can vary in positioning by (one? several?) millimeters. Even if
this is the variation between different printers of the same model, it means
you have to fine tune the positioning on the soft copy to tailor it for a specific
printer. But if I do end up using cut lines, I will be keeping an eye out to see
the accuracy of absolute positioning on the hard copy. If it is good, then I will
use your idea of forgoing the cut lines and simply rely on measuring the cut for
the hard copy.
 
Ben said:
I bought a nice sharp paper cutter from Quill a number of years ago. I can lay
out 12 cards of 2"x3 1/2" dimensions in landscape on a single 8 1/2" x 11" piece
of paper. Do the math and that leaves 1/4" to trim off all sides... Ben Myers

Thanks for the info, Ben. Our local major office equipment &
stationary store is Stapes/Business Depot. They seem to cater to
Fiskars and X-Acto. If I go this route, probably better to choose
from the store rather than trying to track down another brand name
in town.

Anonymous said:
3. Print & cut by shop
----------------------
* $1.25/page (laser printed)
* $1.00 overhead to extract 10-up content from PDF file
- This is understandable. I spent a while just fiddling around
to find proper layout, which differed on the printed page
versus on-screen PDF (turned out to be a printer setting)
- Assuming 3 page/order, this adds 0.33/page
* $1.00/page to cut
* Total: $2.58/page, clean laser quality

I just spoke to a copy shop staff member, who corrected some of the
above figures I got earlier this week. The cutting charge is not $1/page.
It is $1/cut. In a 10-up layout, this would be 6 horizontal cuts and 3
vertical cuts. Basically, $9 to cut up a 10-up layout. However, this
$9 includes as many sheets of the 10-up business card per layout. For
small batches such as mine, that doesn't amortize well, so the $2.58/page
cost goes up to about $4.58/page (exactly the same as doing it at the
on-campus printing shop). All the more reason to do it at home.
 
Anonymous said:
Not sure
where it comes from, though it was mentioned a bit earlier in this group that
some printers can vary in positioning by (one? several?) millimeters. Even if
this is the variation between different printers of the same model ...

It is even worse, it can vary by millimeters from sheet to sheet on the
same printer - because of the paper feed that is not precise (even in
more expensive printers).

This is the reason why you'll find registration marks (features that
match from the front and the backside) on bank notes - matching to 0.01
mm - this is something difficult to replicate on ordinary printine
machines even.

HTH

Marc
 
Marc said:
It is even worse, it can vary by millimeters from sheet to sheet on the
same printer - because of the paper feed that is not precise (even in
more expensive printers).
This is the reason why you'll find registration marks (features that
match from the front and the backside) on bank notes - matching to 0.01
mm - this is something difficult to replicate on ordinary printine
machines even. HTH Marc

Thanks for clarifying. If it varies that much from sheet to sheet on the same
printer, I certainly won't be able to use the idea of registration marks on the
back side, since I have to feed the paper in again to print on the back side.
I just printed out 3 copies of a page of orthonormal crosses ("+" symbols drawn
at the corners and the center). 2 of them match perfectly, the 3rd one is offset
both vertically and horizontally by the better part of a millimeter. I'm sure that
if one were to make a study of this (and HP probably already has the data), there
would be a normal distribution where a standard deviations would be in the order of
a millimeter. Or more -- remember that the "measurement" I made above is with the
copies made one after another. With time, physical "calibration" of the position
probably varies (maybe as parts expand/shrink with temperature, etc.).
 
Marc said:
[print positioning] can vary by millimeters from sheet to sheet on
the same printer - because of the paper feed that is not precise
(even in more expensive printers). This is the reason why you'll
find registration marks (features that match from the front and the
backside) on bank notes - matching to 0.01 mm - this is something
difficult to replicate on ordinary printine machines even.

Thanks for clarifying. If it varies that much from sheet to sheet
on the same printer, I certainly won't be able to use the idea of
registration marks on the back side, since I have to feed the paper
in again to print on the back side. I just printed out 3 copies of
a page of orthonormal crosses ("+" symbols drawn at the corners and
the center). 2 of them match perfectly, the 3rd one is offset both
vertically and horizontally by the better part of a millimeter. I'm
sure that if one were to make a study of this (and HP probably
already has the data), there would be a normal distribution where a
standard deviations would be in the order of a millimeter. Or more
-- remember that the "measurement" I made above is with the copies
made one after another. With time, physical "calibration" of the
position probably varies (maybe as parts expand/shrink with
temperature, etc.).

By the way, would you have any idea on how to print cut marks to cut
abutted 10-up cards? (I realize that 12-up is possible, but that's
the next step). From elsewhere in this thread:
 
Anonymous said:
If it varies that much from sheet to sheet on the same
printer, I certainly won't be able to use the idea of registration marks on
the
back side, since I have to feed the paper in again to print on the back side.
I just printed out 3 copies of a page of orthonormal crosses ("+" symbols
drawn
at the corners and the center). 2 of them match perfectly, the 3rd one is
offset
both vertically and horizontally by the better part of a millimeter.

If your card is similar to mine, it needs to be cut precisely on one
side only, ie only on one side the design is sufficiently close to the
border so you'll notice the misregistration. On the other side there is
sufficient clearance. So just put your cutting marks on the critical
side and you'll be fine.
BTW: It does not work to cut a bunch of sheets together therefore.

Marc
 
Anonymous said:
Mines is an HP PSC 750 inkjet. I will see if the copy shop have other
weights that they can sell sample quantities of. I thought the sheets
of "card stock" they sold me today was 90 lb (that's what they said).
But it was so flimsy, even as a 3.5"x2" card, that I googled "card stock";
I found that it is actually 65 lb. If necessary, I'll phone around to
various copy shops to see if they have demo cards of various weight so
that I can just drop by see which one that seems reasonably sturdy.
Many stores are closed tomorrow, though, due to the holiday.

What I've found, being a novice in the paper area, is that different types
of stock have a different level of stiffness and feel for equivalent
"weight" - i.e. 80 lb. The Wasau 80# COVER was a decent weight for cards in
my estimation. In San Francisco you can go to Kelly paper company, a firm
that sells primarily to printers, and buy a few sheets of any paper they
have as samples to try. I don't know what firms there are in your area, but
generally speaking, stores like office depot and some of the copy shops have
a fairly limited selection. The printing industry and the companies that
cater to them have a very broad selection.
 
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