C
Chris S.
Skybuck Flying said:
Wrong.
"capacitators"? *sigh*
Wrong.
"capacitators"? *sigh*
P
Paul
Skybuck said:
This is why you use an inspection mirror, and
after the cooler is clamped into place, look at
the joint between the cooler and CPU.
You should see a white line on all four sides, which
tells you the paste made it out to the edge. That's
how you check that you have used enough paste.
By doing the calibration step, and applying too little
the first time, I haven't managed to apply so much in
the second attempt, that it went all over the place. Doing
a trial installation, knowing you are using too little
paste, helps you estimate how much is really needed.
If you don't see the "white line" of the paste oozing
out, then apply a little bit more (a bigger dot), and
try again.
Paul
M
Michael Black
To be fair, it's a common error for beginners. I'm sure I thought they
were "capacitators" at one point early on, and then I heard kids at school
use "capacitator", so there must be something that causes people to
misread the word. Perhaps an expectation that it should sound different.
Chances are good that until/if someone gets to electronic school, they
won't hear the word. I misinterpreted "astronomy" when I was a kid,
precsiely because I was only reading it, not hearing it, and once I got
the right pronunciation, it was still hard to shift. It likely is
compounded by others mispronouncing "capacitor" so the beginner may hear
what they already thought it was.
Michael
L
larrymoencurly
I don't think your CPU needs better cooling because I run an AMD
4800+ (probably a 65W version) with the factory original heatsink/fan,
in a garage that regularly reaches 40C - 45C in the summer (48C last
month), and the case has only one fan, at the bottom front, where it
blows across the vertically mounted hard disk. However I don't
have a high performance video card, just an Nvidia 8400GS that
doesn't need a fan.
OTOH maybe your north bridge chip is getting too hot because most
motherboards have only a passive heatsink over it, and adding a fan
over it may help. Also because this chip runs hot, the capacitors next
to it may be among the first to wear out. If your motherboard has an
Nvidia chipset, some of them were made with the wrong packaging
and solder, and keeping the north bridge cool can delay failure.
Many of my motherboards failed when their cheapo brand capacitors
capacitors bloated or ruptured, usually one next to the DIMMs, in
the circuit that regulates the voltage going to the memory.
What brand power supply do you have? There are some really bad ones
out there, and even many good brands are made with low quality
capacitors that will make them fail or become erratic in a few years.
A lot of memory sold on the retail market is marginal in quality, especially
anything with heatsinks on it.
4800+ (probably a 65W version) with the factory original heatsink/fan,
in a garage that regularly reaches 40C - 45C in the summer (48C last
month), and the case has only one fan, at the bottom front, where it
blows across the vertically mounted hard disk. However I don't
have a high performance video card, just an Nvidia 8400GS that
doesn't need a fan.
OTOH maybe your north bridge chip is getting too hot because most
motherboards have only a passive heatsink over it, and adding a fan
over it may help. Also because this chip runs hot, the capacitors next
to it may be among the first to wear out. If your motherboard has an
Nvidia chipset, some of them were made with the wrong packaging
and solder, and keeping the north bridge cool can delay failure.
Many of my motherboards failed when their cheapo brand capacitors
capacitors bloated or ruptured, usually one next to the DIMMs, in
the circuit that regulates the voltage going to the memory.
What brand power supply do you have? There are some really bad ones
out there, and even many good brands are made with low quality
capacitors that will make them fail or become erratic in a few years.
A lot of memory sold on the retail market is marginal in quality, especially
anything with heatsinks on it.
P
Paul
His has a Northbridge fan. It's the SYSFANIN at 7336 RPM.
http://www.skybuck.org/Winfast/TemperatureReadingsWith1GHZMode.png
Mobo is NF4SK8AA-8EKRS from Foxconn (Winfast). You can see a
three-wire fan on the chipset (CK-804). Board also appears to
use the classical paddle card, for selecting x8/x8 or x16 mode
(instead of PCI Express chips and automatic control). That's how
the first generation S939 SLI boards did it, the old paddlecard trick.
http://www.pcplanetsystems.com/abc/images/big/foxconnmobo3big.gif
(CK-804)
http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4696268626659919&pid=15.1
I'm curious whether the shutdown feature shown in the BIOS, can
be raised, or disabled completely. It appears to be a separate
feature, from the totally automatic (hardware) THERMTRIP. The manual
has BIOS pictures, but they're too blurry to read.
Paul
S
Skybuck Flying
What do you do if you need to try again ?
Remove everything and a new dot ?
Or just add a little bit more ?
In last case that kinda defeat the whole purpose eh ?
Bye,
Skybuck.
Remove everything and a new dot ?
Or just add a little bit more ?
In last case that kinda defeat the whole purpose eh ?
Bye,
Skybuck.
P
Paul
Skybuck said:What do you do if you need to try again ?
Remove everything and a new dot ?
Or just add a little bit more ?
In last case that kinda defeat the whole purpose eh ?
Bye,
Skybuck.
1) One objective, is to remove any air bubbles.
That requires cleaning off the stuff on there already.
Wipe off enough, until a white haze is all that's left.
You don't have to clean it until it is shiny again. Just
wipe off the excess.
2) Apply your calibrated dot of paste, then squash
the cooler onto the dot, and fasten the clip.
You're done. Inspect from the side (with a mirror),
and check that the joint between CPU and cooler,
shows a bit of paste. That proves the installation worked.
If you can't see paste on the joint between CPU and cooler,
you need more paste (bigger dot of paste).
If the CPU is cool enough now that the machine is not
shutting down, you don't have to do anything.
But if you feel the computer is running hotter than other
people using the same processor, then fixing the paste
might help.
Your processor is probably good to at least 65C.
Just a guess. That's 65C Tcase.
Also, have you checked thar BIOS setting yet ?
When the cursor is placed on the shutdown item,
do the "+" or "-" keys do anything ? If you can
adjust the BIOS-controlled shutdown, again, maybe
you don't need to do anything except disable the
shutdown.
You see, that BIOS shutdown, is not the only shutdown
feature. There is still THERMTRIP (hardware protection).
So you are always protected against a damaging level of heat.
The BIOS feature, would be in addition to THERMTRIP.
Paul
J
Johann Klammer
Skybuck said:
Where's the thermal sensor placed?
If it is on the die itself, it'll show rather higher values than an
external one...
P
Paul
Johann said:
Look at his picture again.
http://www.skybuck.org/Winfast/TemperatureReadingsWith1GHZMode.png
The silicon die has at least two sensors, if you believe the picture.
As for the other four listed sensors, sometimes those are fake (open circuit).
A person should load up Prime95 or cpuburn or similar 100% CPU program,
then watch *all* the sensors, to see which ones move, which ones
move fast, which ones move slow. The fast moving ones, are
right on the silicon die. The slow moving ones are
elsewhere. The rate of change will distinguish all but
a few, such as a Northbridge sensor from a motherboard
case ambient sensor.
I doubt they'd bother with the old socket sensor tape, when
the S939 has internal diode sensing.
I have a motherboard, where a "THRM" input accepts my RadioShack
thermistor, and I use that to measure room temperature outside
the case. Not many motherboards provide a two pin header for
that kind of thing. But that's an example of what they can do with
left over channels on the SuperIO hardware monitor.
Paul
F
Flasherly
Think I've the same processor. I like mine, though. You should set
it up right in the bios, to where it doesn't shut down. What's AMD's
specs on it: 175F for the lower end of "toasty" ratings? Decent
heatsink -- and 130F can be expected, especially since made back when
they were drawing some wattage.
No sweat.
Gonn'a sell it, too? That's how and where I got mine, too - $10US
Ebay used. Working great no issues for a year or so. Make somebody
happy. Nice case. . .got a CoolerMaster monster CPU/heatsink to go
with it? They're cheap, too.
Only trouble with AMD and temps I had are past - pushing 130F way back
when, well before dual cores.
Thing to watch out for is instability.
Playing hell with, say, archives and compression, when the processor
is introducing errors due to a partially fried brain is the Big No
No. Test everything, for sure, but that processor was blowing away
anything comparable by way of Intel pricing I've yet to run into (skip
the Pentium D architecture and check out present Conroe pricing).
it up right in the bios, to where it doesn't shut down. What's AMD's
specs on it: 175F for the lower end of "toasty" ratings? Decent
heatsink -- and 130F can be expected, especially since made back when
they were drawing some wattage.
No sweat.
Gonn'a sell it, too? That's how and where I got mine, too - $10US
Ebay used. Working great no issues for a year or so. Make somebody
happy. Nice case. . .got a CoolerMaster monster CPU/heatsink to go
with it? They're cheap, too.
Only trouble with AMD and temps I had are past - pushing 130F way back
when, well before dual cores.
Thing to watch out for is instability.
Playing hell with, say, archives and compression, when the processor
is introducing errors due to a partially fried brain is the Big No
No. Test everything, for sure, but that processor was blowing away
anything comparable by way of Intel pricing I've yet to run into (skip
the Pentium D architecture and check out present Conroe pricing).
T
T
I remember an old white box computer I had. You could always tell when
the CPU fan died because system would blue screen you to death.
Replace the fan and all ran well until that one died.
M
Mr. Man-wai Chang
Did you forget to re-apply thermal compound to your CPU cooler?
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S
Skybuck Flying
Try this sometime if you haven't:
4 little dots in each corner ?!
+ +
+ +
Bye,
Skybuck
4 little dots in each corner ?!
+ +
+ +
Bye,
Skybuck
S
Skybuck Flying
Hmmm better ignore the 4 dots method lol..
It probably stupid...
It will probably create big air bubbles near the center which would be worst
case situation
At least the dot method pushes air out to the sides
Then again I wonder what my smearing has for an effective
Maybe a few micro bubbles here and there
At least corners well done
Bye,
Skybuck.
It probably stupid...
It will probably create big air bubbles near the center which would be worst
case situation
At least the dot method pushes air out to the sides
Then again I wonder what my smearing has for an effective
Maybe a few micro bubbles here and there
At least corners well done
Bye,
Skybuck.
S
Skybuck Flying
Settings can be changed from 45 to 55 or 60 or so as far as I know if it's
capable of being disabled I dont know.
But I like the feature... so I am going to leave it as it is.
Didn't have any more shutdown problems.
Though windows wouldn't be windows if it didn't have other problems.
Now that windows 7 is un power saver mode... the login screen will freeze up
the pc if I dont login.
Have to do a hard reset and reboot.
Not sure if this is because of a driver issue or if it's a windows 7 bug.
Bye,
Skybuck.
capable of being disabled I dont know.
But I like the feature... so I am going to leave it as it is.
Didn't have any more shutdown problems.
Though windows wouldn't be windows if it didn't have other problems.
Now that windows 7 is un power saver mode... the login screen will freeze up
the pc if I dont login.
Have to do a hard reset and reboot.
Not sure if this is because of a driver issue or if it's a windows 7 bug.
Bye,
Skybuck.