Help: Building an Mini-ITX PC

  • Thread starter Thread starter Searcher7
  • Start date Start date
Ting is correct, it must slide out or something . I can see screw holes in the
bottom in this pic

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/product/Chassis/detail_overview.
aspx?ID=en-us0000153

Looks like it slides back 1 inch and then lifts out

What happens when you remove the screw right under the 3.5 drive bay, andthe
screw right below the bottom right of the DVD drive? Does the cage lift up and
out?

http://i290.photobucket.
com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/FoxconnRS0338ITXCaseFront.jpg

Thanks.

I actually did take those screws out. What I didn't know is that you
have to slide the chassis back a little before you can lift it
out. :-) That allowed me to get to the screw holes.

The only two problems left are finding out what F-Panel connector is
needed for the motherboard and more importantly I'm worried about
what's going to happen when I have to wedge the motherboard ram
tightly under the DVD cage. (Perhaps I can use a hammer to knock down
the motherboard risers some).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Thanks.

I actually did take those screws out. What I didn't know is that you
have to slide the chassis back a little before you can lift it
out. :-) That allowed me to get to the screw holes.

The only two problems left are finding out what F-Panel connector is
needed for the motherboard and more importantly I'm worried about
what's going to happen when I have to wedge the motherboard ram
tightly under the DVD cage. (Perhaps I can use a hammer to knock down
the motherboard risers some).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy a different DVD recorder? Just get one
shorter in length. They are all of $20
 
Wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy a different DVD recorder? Just get one
shorter in length. They are all of $20

I did. I picked up a used one a couple days ago and it is a little
shorter than the one I initially wanted to use, and therefore no
longer fits the fan.

But that changes nothing as for as me having to wedge the motherboard
ram in it's slot up under the DVD cage.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
Thanks.

But you didn't have to write all that. All I need is the part number
for the connector I need. (The connector that goes to the
motherboard).

I can remove the pins from the F-Panel connector. I just need the
connector to put them in.

So what I think you're telling me, is the Foxconn doesn't use discrete
wire pairs ? Retail computer cases, have a wiring harness with twisted
pair cables. For example, I might see an orange-white twisted pair,
a 1x4 nylon shell, and the text "SPKR" printed on the nylon shell. I then
slide that 1x4, onto the appropriate four pins of the panel header.
It means four or five discrete twisted pairs, plus their nylons shells,
connect to the panel header.

Asus speeded up the insertion of those wire pairs, by including an
intermediary assembly, which makes it easier to put the wires in the
right places.

On a OEM computer (Dell, HP, Acer etc), it's possible for them to
use a monolithic block, with all the wires coming into a 2x5 shell.
Then, that shell, with one keying pin, is used to guide assembly.
You push the 2x5 down onto a precisely 2x5 header on the motherboard.
That's how you'd do it on a Dell or HP. They do that, to speed up
final assembly in their factory.

But on DIY systems, the computer case tends to have separate twisted
pairs with a connector on the end. And it is possible to change the
pin spacing, if you needed to change a 1x4 "SPKR" into a 1x2 "SPKR".

It sounds to me, like you've discovered a 2x5 monolithic block on the
Foxconn cable assembly, and you're asking "how do I join this to my
goofy 2x8 header" ?

If that were the case, you'd try to get a 2x8 shell, and move the
Foxconn wires and pins into it. The 2x8 is the biggest one FrontX sells.
Shells like this might be available on Mouser or Digikey, as examples
of other potential sources. But then, I'd have to go looking through
a 1000 page catalog.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html
(Also, it appears that the front panel pins specification of the case
cannot be found. (So I assume figuring this out would be a matter of
trial and error)

A Foxconn tech sent me this link:
http://www.foxconnsupport.com/downl...000000003&Series=en-us0000002&keywords=&sort=

But it doesn't seem to help much.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Maybe the reason the Foxconn tech sent it, is that barebones uses the RS-338,
and the motherboard in the barebones has the same pinout, and using
the barebones motherboard pinout, you can figure it out ? It's a stretch.

If I take the document in question (downloads at 10KB/sec and takes eons !),
I can zoom in and see this.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4835/g41skfphdr.gif

switch??? LED ???????
/ \ / \
(key) blue blue red-minus red-plus
NC green green orange-minus orange-plus
\ / \ /
switch??? LED ???????

It looks like an OEM-like pattern, like you might find in an HP.
Perhaps the PANEL cable from your Foxconn case, has a 2x5 on the end ?

Now, if I download the manual for the motherboard mentioned in the
Foxconn tech's reference, I see this.

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/drive...75\G41S\Manual\G41S Series-Manual-En-V1.0.zip

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3513/g41manual.gif

which refines the drawing above like this.

ResetSW - HDD_LED +
/ \ / \
(key) blue blue red-minus red-plus
NC green green orange-minus orange-plus
\ / \ /
PowerSW - PWR_LED +

See if that makes sense. You'll need to insert your four
twisted pairs and eight pins, into a 2x8 shell, if you
want a nice neat solution. So when you pull the four pairs
from the above 2x5 block diagram, they'll go into a 2x8 shell
like this. I don't know if your mini-itx uses an onboard
buzzer for SPKR, in which case there'd be no need for a
1x4 header on the mini-itx board. If there is a piezo buzzer,
then there is no need of SPKR.

Pin Signal Pin Signal
1 PWR_LED+ 2 HDD_LED+ \___ HDD activity LED
Power LED ___/3 PWR_LED+ 4 HDD_LED- / (1x2) Note: LEDS are polarized.
(1x2) \5 PWR_LED- 6 PW_BN+ \___ 1x2 connector for POWER button
7 SPEAKER+ 8 PW_BN- / (This switch is not polarized.)
9 10 RESET+ \___ 1x2 connector for RESET button
11 12 RESET- / (This switch is not polarized.)
13 SPEAKER- 14 SLED+
15 (KEY) 16 SLED-

Paul
 
So what I think you're telling me, is the Foxconn doesn't use discrete
wire pairs ? Retail computer cases, have a wiring harness with twisted
pair cables. For example, I might see an orange-white twisted pair,
a 1x4 nylon shell, and the text "SPKR" printed on the nylon shell. I then
slide that 1x4, onto the appropriate four pins of the panel header.
It means four or five discrete twisted pairs, plus their nylons shells,
connect to the panel header.

Asus speeded up the insertion of those wire pairs, by including an
intermediary assembly, which makes it easier to put the wires in the
right places.

On a OEM computer (Dell, HP, Acer etc), it's possible for them to
use a monolithic block, with all the wires coming into a 2x5 shell.
Then, that shell, with one keying pin, is used to guide assembly.
You push the 2x5 down onto a precisely 2x5 header on the motherboard.
That's how you'd do it on a Dell or HP. They do that, to speed up
final assembly in their factory.

But on DIY systems, the computer case tends to have separate twisted
pairs with a connector on the end. And it is possible to change the
pin spacing, if you needed to change a 1x4 "SPKR" into a 1x2 "SPKR".

It sounds to me, like you've discovered a 2x5 monolithic block on the
Foxconn cable assembly, and you're asking "how do I join this to my
goofy 2x8 header" ?

If that were the case, you'd try to get a 2x8 shell, and move the
Foxconn wires and pins into it. The 2x8 is the biggest one FrontX sells.
Shells like this might be available on Mouser or Digikey, as examples
of other potential sources. But then, I'd have to go looking through
a 1000 page catalog.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html






Maybe the reason the Foxconn tech sent it, is that barebones uses the RS-338,
and the motherboard in the barebones has the same pinout, and using
the barebones motherboard pinout, you can figure it out ? It's a stretch.

If I take the document in question (downloads at 10KB/sec and takes eons !),
I can zoom in and see this.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4835/g41skfphdr.gif

                switch???      LED ???????
                 /     \      /           \
        (key)   blue  blue   red-minus    red-plus
         NC     green green  orange-minus orange-plus
                 \     /      \           /
                switch???      LED ???????

It looks like an OEM-like pattern, like you might find in an HP.
Perhaps the PANEL cable from your Foxconn case, has a 2x5 on the end ?

Now, if I download the manual for the motherboard mentioned in the
Foxconn tech's reference, I see this.

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/driverdownload/Motherboard\Intel\So...

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3513/g41manual.gif

which refines the drawing above like this.

                ResetSW       - HDD_LED  +
                 /     \      /           \
        (key)   blue  blue   red-minus    red-plus
         NC     green green  orange-minus orange-plus
                 \     /      \           /
                PowerSW       - PWR_LED  +

See if that makes sense. You'll need to insert your four
twisted pairs and eight pins, into a 2x8 shell, if you
want a nice neat solution. So when you pull the four pairs
from the above 2x5 block diagram, they'll go into a 2x8 shell
like this. I don't know if your mini-itx uses an onboard
buzzer for SPKR, in which case there'd be no need for a
1x4 header on the mini-itx board. If there is a piezo buzzer,
then there is no need of SPKR.

                Pin   Signal   Pin   Signal
                1    PWR_LED+   2   HDD_LED+ \___HDD activity LED
  Power LED ___/3    PWR_LED+   4   HDD_LED- /    (1x2) Note: LEDS are polarized.
  (1x2)        \5    PWR_LED-   6   PW_BN+ \___ 1x2 connector for POWER button
                7    SPEAKER+   8   PW_BN- /    (This switch is not polarized.)
                9              10   RESET+ \___ 1x2 connector for RESET button
                11             12   RESET- /    (This switch is not polarized.)
                13   SPEAKER-  14   SLED+
                15   (KEY)     16   SLED-

    Paul

As for the link the Foxconn tech sent me, evidently this case is used
in some systems they build. But the motherboard is not the same as the
one I am using, so those pin-outs won't work.

This is my motherboard:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/MoboF-Panel.jpg

The pin spacing of the case's 10-pin F-Panel connector is the same as
the pin spacing on my motherboard. If it weren't for the key It would
cover positions 1 through 10.

Though I don't want to have to order from China, I assume two of these
1x8 headers would cover all the pins I need:
www.ebay.com/itm/150359576877

I'd just remove the leads from the present header and insert them into
those.

(I do know there are a total of 8 wires I'll need to connect).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
As for the link the Foxconn tech sent me, evidently this case is used
in some systems they build. But the motherboard is not the same as the
one I am using, so those pin-outs won't work.

This is my motherboard:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/MoboF-Panel.jpg

The pin spacing of the case's 10-pin F-Panel connector is the same as
the pin spacing on my motherboard. If it weren't for the key It would
cover positions 1 through 10.

Though I don't want to have to order from China, I assume two of these
1x8 headers would cover all the pins I need:
www.ebay.com/itm/150359576877

I'd just remove the leads from the present header and insert them into
those.

(I do know there are a total of 8 wires I'll need to connect).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The shell is on 0.1" centers. When you say the pin spacing mates,
that's the parameter you'd check before buying another shell. Also,
a common dimension, is the pin on the motherboard is likely 0.025"
or "25thou square". I think that is what I'm seeing in all the catalog
entries I've looked at so far, 0.025.

One description for what you want is:

Standard Dual Row Crimp Housing 2.54

2.54mm Pitch SL Crimp Housing, Dual Row, Version A, Non-polarized, 16 Circuits

The 2.54 refers to 2.54mm or 0.1 inches. The reason they use
millimeters, is another popular spacing is 2.00mm, so they quote
both of them in millimeters. There is also a larger one, 0.156"
but right off hand I don't know the metric dimension for that.
In any case, what you're looking for, is a 2.54 one.

I can find the shells, no problem. What I have to be careful of, is the
pin design and the pin retention feature. The shells you and I have in
front of us, have a plastic "flap" that when you deflect it outwards
slightly, the pin can be pulled out of the shell. When I go shopping,
I can't find one with the flap. I can find one with a small hole,
and the one with the small hole, takes a pin with a "spur" on the
back of it. The "spur" snaps into place, and is harder to get back out
again than the flap design. A shell expecting a "spur", won't work with
a pin that expects a "flap". If you don't match these things right,
the pin either won't fit, or the pin won't stay put in the shell.

So I can't just grab the first shell I find for sale. That's the problem
with searching in a 2800 page PDF catalog.

If I were to buy a shell and the matching pin that goes with it,
and re-terminate the wire and pin, then the scheme works, guaranteed.
As long as the pin seats on a 0.025" square pin, then I'd be done
this exercise. But some of the pins, I have some experience with them.
One of the pins I just located, is a non-favorite of mine. What
it does, is you push the header down into place, and then you can't
get it off again. It has tremendous retention force. And that one
sucks. I had some of those in the lab, and they're a nightmare.
Lots of cussing. Of course, manufacturing love them (because
they don't fall off). But they're not right for lab work
(or home usage either). Being able to take it off later is important.

So when I see the right one on FrontX.com, I'm just tempted to buy it and
a set of pins and be done with it. Buying the pins is insurance, in
case the existing pins don't fit in the shell.

I'm not good at selecting these things, and it takes me *hours* to find
the right one. At least the "crimp housing" search term might help you.

You can see this one has the flap.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html

And these are the pins. You don't have to use the pins, unless your
Foxconn provided pins won't fit the new shell. This looks to be the
same pin, as is on my Antec cable assembly. I have no idea who makes
these pins. If I did, it might allow narrowing the choice, to something
on Digikey or Mouser.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx076.html

The FrontX site says they're in Ohio.

Paul
 
The shell is on 0.1" centers. When you say the pin spacing mates,
that's the parameter you'd check before buying another shell. Also,
a common dimension, is the pin on the motherboard is likely 0.025"
or "25thou square". I think that is what I'm seeing in all the catalog
entries I've looked at so far, 0.025.

One description for what you want is:

    Standard Dual Row Crimp Housing 2.54

    2.54mm Pitch SL Crimp Housing, Dual Row, Version A, Non-polarized, 16 Circuits

The 2.54 refers to 2.54mm or 0.1 inches. The reason they use
millimeters, is another popular spacing is 2.00mm, so they quote
both of them in millimeters. There is also a larger one, 0.156"
but right off hand I don't know the metric dimension for that.
In any case, what you're looking for, is a 2.54 one.

I can find the shells, no problem. What I have to be careful of, is the
pin design and the pin retention feature. The shells you and I have in
front of us, have a plastic "flap" that when you deflect it outwards
slightly, the pin can be pulled out of the shell. When I go shopping,
I can't find one with the flap. I can find one with a small hole,
and the one with the small hole, takes a pin with a "spur" on the
back of it. The "spur" snaps into place, and is harder to get back out
again than the flap design. A shell expecting a "spur", won't work with
a pin that expects a "flap". If you don't match these things right,
the pin either won't fit, or the pin won't stay put in the shell.

So I can't just grab the first shell I find for sale. That's the problem
with searching in a 2800 page PDF catalog.

If I were to buy a shell and the matching pin that goes with it,
and re-terminate the wire and pin, then the scheme works, guaranteed.
As long as the pin seats on a 0.025" square pin, then I'd be done
this exercise. But some of the pins, I have some experience with them.
One of the pins I just located, is a non-favorite of mine. What
it does, is you push the header down into place, and then you can't
get it off again. It has tremendous retention force. And that one
sucks. I had some of those in the lab, and they're a nightmare.
Lots of cussing. Of course, manufacturing love them (because
they don't fall off). But they're not right for lab work
(or home usage either). Being able to take it off later is important.

So when I see the right one on FrontX.com, I'm just tempted to buy it and
a set of pins and be done with it. Buying the pins is insurance, in
case the existing pins don't fit in the shell.

I'm not good at selecting these things, and it takes me *hours* to find
the right one. At least the "crimp housing" search term might help you.

You can see this one has the flap.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_6.html

And these are the pins. You don't have to use the pins, unless your
Foxconn provided pins won't fit the new shell. This looks to be the
same pin, as is on my Antec cable assembly. I have no idea who makes
these pins. If I did, it might allow narrowing the choice, to something
on Digikey or Mouser.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx076.html

The FrontX site says they're in Ohio.

    Paul

I think things are pretty standard and will stick to what is available
from somewhere like Ebay.

In fact I have an extra cable from one of the card readers I have.
It's 2x5 on the end that plugs into the card reader and on the other
end there are two 1x5 connectors. I may be able to change the wires
around and use it before looking for pins and housings to purchase.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/MultiCardReader.jpg

(Again, it'll be trial and error until I get all the lights and
switches on the front panel working).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
..com> said:
On Nov 18, 11:14=3DA0pm, (e-mail address removed) (GMAN) wrote:


I did. I picked up a used one a couple days ago and it is a little
shorter than the one I initially wanted to use, and therefore no
longer fits the fan.

But that changes nothing as for as me having to wedge the motherboard
ram in it's slot up under the DVD cage.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

After looking at that quicksetup guide at the link you provided it showed step
by step how to remove that cage. Why didnt you just follow those instructions?
 
After looking at that quicksetup guide at the link you provided it showedstep
by step how to remove that cage. Why didnt you just follow those instructions?

I have no idea what link you are referring to.

Removing the cage is no longer an issue. I still have to wedge the ram
up under the cage when it is in place, which is why it looks as though
I'll have to somehow cut down the risers the motherboard sits on.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
I have no idea what link you are referring to.

Removing the cage is no longer an issue. I still have to wedge the ram
up under the cage when it is in place, which is why it looks as though
I'll have to somehow cut down the risers the motherboard sits on.

Not a good plan...

1) Card brackets won't fit right
2) Mobo backplane connectors won't line up

If it's the RAM being "too tall", your best bet is some 'slimmer' sticks.

If it were me, I'd just walk away from that case.


--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum
 
Not a good plan...

1) Card brackets won't fit right
2) Mobo backplane connectors won't line up

If it's the RAM being "too tall", your best bet is some 'slimmer' sticks.

If it were me, I'd just walk away from that case.

--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
  We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum

If they sell slimmer ram than what is the standard 1-1/4" x 5-1/4"
sticks I have then I wouldn't know the terminology to look for.

I only need to file down the two risers at that side about 1/8". So it
shouldn't cause problems. And I have no need for the motherboard's
single PCI slot.

(And why spend money on another case and end up going through the same
issues? It's not like the case and motherboard manufacturers give you
*all* the needed dimensions and information).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
If they sell slimmer ram than what is the standard 1-1/4" x 5-1/4"
sticks I have then I wouldn't know the terminology to look for.

Look for "low profile". And you want low profile, without
chip coolers.

I have a few Kingston products here, that are pretty short, and
lack coolers.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134178

Half the problem, is the height of the chip cooling solution
they insist on. In many cases, those coolers simply aren't
needed (RDRAM was the last time coolers were technically required,
and the cooler was riveted on, to make sure you didn't take it off.
RDRAM suffered from potential "hot spots". Conventional DIMMs
heat uniformly.)

Coolers make sense, if you're overvolting the RAM, but under
standard conditions, that's likely overkill. Without the
metal cooler, there may even be a usable cooling channel
between DIMMs.

The DIMMs in my current computer, don't have coolers on them.

In fact, the mini-itx store, was one of the first places carrying
"extra low profile" product. There is a list of supported
motherboards, but no explanation of why the not recommended
boards, couldn't take them. I'd rather understand what
dimension is being violated, so I can judge for myself.

http://www.mini-itx.com/store/?c=4#ulpddr2 (19mm DIMMs)

Paul
 
Look for "low profile". And you want low profile, without
chip coolers.

I have a few Kingston products here, that are pretty short, and
lack coolers.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134178

Half the problem, is the height of the chip cooling solution
they insist on. In many cases, those coolers simply aren't
needed (RDRAM was the last time coolers were technically required,
and the cooler was riveted on, to make sure you didn't take it off.
RDRAM suffered from potential "hot spots". Conventional DIMMs
heat uniformly.)

Coolers make sense, if you're overvolting the RAM, but under
standard conditions, that's likely overkill. Without the
metal cooler, there may even be a usable cooling channel
between DIMMs.

The DIMMs in my current computer, don't have coolers on them.

In fact, the mini-itx store, was one of the first places carrying
"extra low profile" product. There is a list of supported
motherboards, but no explanation of why the not recommended
boards, couldn't take them. I'd rather understand what
dimension is being violated, so I can judge for myself.

http://www.mini-itx.com/store/?c=4#ulpddr2    (19mm DIMMs)

    Paul

As it turns out these are no easy to find. (At least for a reasonable
price).

The ram in your first link wouldn't work for me because it has 240
pins.

The ram in your second link wouldn't work for me because it's "NOT
compatible with VIA chipset boards".

I've only found one seller on Ebay with ram that would work with my
set up and I'm wondering what a normal price would be. www.ebay.com/itm/280754854661

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
As it turns out these are no easy to find. (At least for a reasonable
price).

The ram in your first link wouldn't work for me because it has 240
pins.

The ram in your second link wouldn't work for me because it's "NOT
compatible with VIA chipset boards".

I've only found one seller on Ebay with ram that would work with my
set up and I'm wondering what a normal price would be. www.ebay.com/itm/280754854661

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

That Ebay item says:

Speed: PC2100 DDR266

so it's DDR memory. I checked the spec sheet for your motherboard,
and I guess that's right.

I can find an example of a low profile DDR product here. The trick
to these, is the usage of BGA chips for the memories, rather than
TSOP style packages. The leaded chips tend to be too large to make
a decent low profile product. But the BGA packages have the solder
connections on the bottom, meaning they're a bit more compact.
The die size of the silicon die inside, tends to limit how
small they can make them.

http://www.memoryx.net/cnr.html

Now, to make this example of a low profile DDR, they used four chips and
turned the chips sideways. (That means the chip type is x16, rather
than the more normal x8 chips.) That allows using the older chip style,
and making the profile a bit lower. But it's also harder to squeeze in
a gigabyte of RAM that way (density is lower).

http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MEM-008

You should take a measurement, and see what will fit. If
the DIMM height is limited to 19mm, it's one solution. If
31mm, it might be another solution, and so on. Maybe just
a regular DIMM would fit, if the DIMM cooler was missing ?

As near as I can determine, the max DIMM capacity for CLE266 is 1GB.
If the motherboard had more slots, you could have a bit more
memory. That chipset can support at least 2x1GB, if two slots
were present. Probably not enough room for that.

Paul
 
That Ebay item says:

    Speed: PC2100 DDR266

so it's DDR memory. I checked the spec sheet for your motherboard,
and I guess that's right.

I can find an example of a low profile DDR product here. The trick
to these, is the usage of BGA chips for the memories, rather than
TSOP style packages. The leaded chips tend to be too large to make
a decent low profile product. But the BGA packages have the solder
connections on the bottom, meaning they're a bit more compact.
The die size of the silicon die inside, tends to limit how
small they can make them.

http://www.memoryx.net/cnr.html

Now, to make this example of a low profile DDR, they used four chips and
turned the chips sideways. (That means the chip type is x16, rather
than the more normal x8 chips.) That allows using the older chip style,
and making the profile a bit lower. But it's also harder to squeeze in
a gigabyte of RAM that way (density is lower).

http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MEM-008

You should take a measurement, and see what will fit. If
the DIMM height is limited to 19mm, it's one solution. If
31mm, it might be another solution, and so on. Maybe just
a regular DIMM would fit, if the DIMM cooler was missing ?

As near as I can determine, the max DIMM capacity for CLE266 is 1GB.
If the motherboard had more slots, you could have a bit more
memory. That chipset can support at least 2x1GB, if two slots
were present. Probably not enough room for that.

    Paul

The ram chip I was attempting to use is 1-1/4" high and 5-1/4" long.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/Ram.jpg

The motherboard has a Via Apollo CLE26 chipset and it's single DIMM
slot takes a 184 Pin DDR266 SDRAM up to 1GB.

I know little about backward compatibility, but can I assume that
something like a PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2 will not work?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
The ram chip I was attempting to use is 1-1/4" high and 5-1/4" long.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/Ram.jpg

The motherboard has a Via Apollo CLE26 chipset and it's single DIMM
slot takes a 184 Pin DDR266 SDRAM up to 1GB.

I know little about backward compatibility, but can I assume that
something like a PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2 will not work?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

So if that one won't fit, then you need the much less common low
profile or ultra low profile version. Actually, I'm amazed at the
sizes I did find (31.25mm, 25mm, 19mm). I thought there was only
one lower size, something I saw first at the mini-itx.com store.

DDR is DDR. You can't use DDR2 or DDR3. PC3200 is not the same
thing as PC2-3200 or PC3-3200. The naming conventions differ
on purpose, to tell the difference between DDR, DDR2, and DDR3.
PC3200 can be used in place of PC2100, with the odd very rare
exception (a BIOS issue specific to one product). Faster RAM
can be used in slower applications, but not vice versa. So if
you think only PC2100 will work, in fact PC3200 would be fine.

The most likely source of memory like that, would be a seller
who deals in mini-itx stuff. But the thing is, DDR based motherboards
wouldn't be a high runner. One store only stocks DDR2 and DDR3 now,
and the DDR has disappeared. Even Kingston doesn't list datasheets
for DDR sticks on their valueram.com site any more. So it might be
difficult to find a source of brand new, low profile DDR. You might
not have your pick of a hundred different stores for it.

I can see a 25mm one here, which isn't quite as good as the 19mm one.
You'll need to get the ruler out, and measure the clearance.

http://www.oempcworld.com/OEMPCworld-com/018911.html

http://www.memoryten.com/pc/018911/DDR-184p-PC3200-1GB/

You can check Resellerratings.com, for some feedback on the
reputation of a store. These guys got a 7.8 out of 10. But
you also need to read the customers reviews, to detect
"ballot box stuffing". At least one store, has used idiots
to try to beat this system, and the customers reviews are
comical. You can tell when people are attempting to fabricate
a review, because the prose "smells bad".

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/MemoryTen_6

Paul
 
So if that one won't fit, then you need the much less common low
profile or ultra low profile version. Actually, I'm amazed at the
sizes I did find (31.25mm, 25mm, 19mm). I thought there was only
one lower size, something I saw first at the mini-itx.com store.

DDR is DDR. You can't use DDR2 or DDR3. PC3200 is not the same
thing as PC2-3200 or PC3-3200. The naming conventions differ
on purpose, to tell the difference between DDR, DDR2, and DDR3.
PC3200 can be used in place of PC2100, with the odd very rare
exception (a BIOS issue specific to one product). Faster RAM
can be used in slower applications, but not vice versa. So if
you think only PC2100 will work, in fact PC3200 would be fine.

The most likely source of memory like that, would be a seller
who deals in mini-itx stuff. But the thing is, DDR based motherboards
wouldn't be a high runner. One store only stocks DDR2 and DDR3 now,
and the DDR has disappeared. Even Kingston doesn't list datasheets
for DDR sticks on their valueram.com site any more. So it might be
difficult to find a source of brand new, low profile DDR. You might
not have your pick of a hundred different stores for it.

I can see a 25mm one here, which isn't quite as good as the 19mm one.
You'll need to get the ruler out, and measure the clearance.

http://www.oempcworld.com/OEMPCworld-com/018911.html

http://www.memoryten.com/pc/018911/DDR-184p-PC3200-1GB/

You can check Resellerratings.com, for some feedback on the
reputation of a store. These guys got a 7.8 out of 10. But
you also need to read the customers reviews, to detect
"ballot box stuffing". At least one store, has used idiots
to try to beat this system, and the customers reviews are
comical. You can tell when people are attempting to fabricate
a review, because the prose "smells bad".

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/MemoryTen_6

    Paul

I understand you can use DDR400 on a motherboard that takes DDR266,
but how would one know if the DDR400 modules in those links you posted
are DDR, DDR2, or DDR3?

I wouldn't need a ruler, because anything smaller than 1-1/4" in
height would fit. I know that because that is the height of the ram
module that I have to wedge up under the DVD case.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Searcher7 said:
I understand you can use DDR400 on a motherboard that takes DDR266,
but how would one know if the DDR400 modules in those links you posted
are DDR, DDR2, or DDR3?

I wouldn't need a ruler, because anything smaller than 1-1/4" in
height would fit. I know that because that is the height of the ram
module that I have to wedge up under the DVD case.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

You generally can tell from naming convention

PC3200 DDR400 184-pin UDIMM (U stands for unbuffered, rather than R for registered)

PC2-3200 DDR2-400 240-pin UDIMM # This is DDR2

PC3-3200 DDR3-400 240-pin UDIMM # This is DDR3 - keying slot is in a different location
# You can't jam a DDR3 in a DDR2 slot, because of the key.

I made up those values so they'd all be the same as far as speed
goes, so the "2" and "3" used would stand out more. DDR has
no number, while DDR2 has the 2 in the parameter, and
DDR3 has the 3 in the parameter.

The memory industry has a relatively poor record when it
comes to marketing RAM, and in some cases, JEDEC gave them
descriptors they could use, and they didn't bother using
them in advertising material.

One practice I find abhorrent, is putting pictures of the
wrong memory product, in an advertisement. Like putting a
picture of unbuffered RAM in a registered RAM advert. You
can assign zero trust to any picture in a RAM advert (don't
use the picture as a deciding factor). Even Ebay sellers
have a better record, than retailers. Ebay sellers are more
likely to use a picture of the actual product (even if
the picture was taken with their cellphone).

*******

If we take this advert

http://www.memoryten.com/pc/018911/DDR-184p-PC3200-1GB/

"1GB 184p PC3200 CL3 16c 64x8 DDR400 2Rx8 2.5V UDIMM 25mm Board Low profile,
Samsung/3rd, ACZ, GR1GU1"

The PC3200 is DDR type.
The DDR400 is DDR type. A DDR400 can be used at DDR400, DDR333, DDR266, or DDR200 speed.

The CL3 means CAS3 (industry standard speed, while CAS2 is "enthusiast speed" or "low latency")
Column Address Strobe latency, affects how long it takes to get the first read data.

16c means 16 chips per module, 8 chips on each side (establishes number of bits inside chip).
This is important for working out whether the number of row or column
address bits are about to be exceeded. If a module uses 16 chips, then
you can use the "max capacity per slot" claimed by the chipset, without
thinking about it. If the module has 8 chips or 4 chips total, then you
have to think carefully about the impact that would have. An 8 chip 512MB
module would probably work OK. A 4 chip 256MB module would probably work
OK. You can assume, when the chipset manufacturer says "1GB max", they're
referring to a 16 chip module (two ranks of 8 chips per side). The module
on the MP3CAR site, was double sided four chip for eight chips total, while the
module capacity was 512MB, which in fact would be right up to the limit
of your motherboard. The 16 chip module, means one fewer row/column bit
is going to be needed to address the memory matrix (number of chips is double,
density can be cut in half, one fewer address bit at that density).

64x8 refers to the internal chip dimensions. Each memory chip is 64 million
locations by 8 bits wide. That makes each chip "512 megabit technology".
If we multiply 16c * 64MB per chip, we get confirmation of the 1GB module size.

2Rx8 means "two ranks" of memory. We'd expect the module to be double-sided.

There are a few other fields in that string, that I can't decode (ACZ, GR1GU1).

Retailers are fond of adding perfectly useless dimensional information
to DIMM adverts. Some of these are constructed to be ambiguous, and
cannot be used to determine whether to buy the module or not. The
marketing people only add that crap, to "plump up the advert".
In some cases, precision is needed, for those chipsets with known
marginal conditions. An example was "440BX high density versus
low density RAM". Each generation has some obscure thing like that,
that occasionally affects people. Even weirder, is when a chipset
maker, doesn't actually know the correct max RAM capacity of what
they've built (VIA Technologies) :-) My VIA based motherboard
will take a 2GB module, when their web site says "1GB max per slot".
And at least one VIA web page, changed the story over time (like,
had an original claim that one of their chipsets could handle 16GB
total, when it was highly unlikely to do so - this was later
corrected). If VIA had posted datasheets for download, less
erroneous info might have resulted (engineers are closer to
the writing of datasheets, and have next to no say in what is
printed in web pages).

Have fun,
Paul
 
Searcher7wrote:



You generally can tell from naming convention

PC3200     DDR400   184-pin UDIMM (U stands for unbuffered, rather than R for registered)

PC2-3200   DDR2-400 240-pin UDIMM # This is DDR2

PC3-3200   DDR3-400 240-pin UDIMM # This is DDR3 - keying slot is in a different location
                                   # You can't jam a DDR3 in a DDR2 slot, because of the key.

I made up those values so they'd all be the same as far as speed
goes, so the "2" and "3" used would stand out more. DDR has
no number, while DDR2 has the 2 in the parameter, and
DDR3 has the 3 in the parameter.

The memory industry has a relatively poor record when it
comes to marketing RAM, and in some cases, JEDEC gave them
descriptors they could use, and they didn't bother using
them in advertising material.

One practice I find abhorrent, is putting pictures of the
wrong memory product, in an advertisement. Like putting a
picture of unbuffered RAM in a registered RAM advert. You
can assign zero trust to any picture in a RAM advert (don't
use the picture as a deciding factor). Even Ebay sellers
have a better record, than retailers. Ebay sellers are more
likely to use a picture of the actual product (even if
the picture was taken with their cellphone).

*******

If we take this advert

http://www.memoryten.com/pc/018911/DDR-184p-PC3200-1GB/

   "1GB 184p PC3200 CL3 16c 64x8 DDR400 2Rx8 2.5V UDIMM 25mm Board Low profile,
    Samsung/3rd, ACZ, GR1GU1"

The PC3200 is DDR type.
The DDR400 is DDR type. A DDR400 can be used at DDR400, DDR333, DDR266, or DDR200 speed.

The CL3 means CAS3 (industry standard speed, while CAS2 is "enthusiast speed" or "low latency")
Column Address Strobe latency, affects how long it takes to get the firstread data.

16c means 16 chips per module, 8 chips on each side (establishes number of bits inside chip).
This is important for working out whether the number of row or column
address bits are about to be exceeded. If a module uses 16 chips, then
you can use the "max capacity per slot" claimed by the chipset, without
thinking about it. If the module has 8 chips or 4 chips total, then you
have to think carefully about the impact that would have. An 8 chip 512MB
module would probably work OK. A 4 chip 256MB module would probably work
OK. You can assume, when the chipset manufacturer says "1GB max", they're
referring to a 16 chip module (two ranks of 8 chips per side). The module
on the MP3CAR site, was double sided four chip for eight chips total, while the
module capacity was 512MB, which in fact would be right up to the limit
of your motherboard. The 16 chip module, means one fewer row/column bit
is going to be needed to address the memory matrix (number of chips is double,
density can be cut in half, one fewer address bit at that density).

64x8 refers to the internal chip dimensions. Each memory chip is 64 million
locations by 8 bits wide. That makes each chip "512 megabit technology".
If we multiply 16c * 64MB per chip, we get confirmation of the 1GB modulesize.

2Rx8 means "two ranks" of memory. We'd expect the module to be double-sided.

There are a few other...

read more »

Someone sent me some f-panel connectors so I can re-pin the non-
standard one from the case, and I found another ram module that is
more narrow, so it should fit under the DVD cage better, but now I've
run into another problem with the pc case from hell.

The main power connector from the power supply does not reach far
enough across the motherboard to plug in. It's an EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX
motherboard that fits in the case, so there is no excuse for that.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/PowerConnector.jpg

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
This isn't exactly the right one, but illustrates the concept.

You need something like a 20 pin to 20 pin extension. I got one
from a local computer store for around $8. Only problem with
the ones I got, was non-standard wire color. That doesn't affect
function, but is irritating.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198023

That one on Newegg, covers both 20 and 24 pin cases. But if you
know both ends are 20 pin, then a "pure 20 pin" version looks
a bit neater when installed.

This one is pretty similar to the one I got (complete with
screwy wire colors).

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-22998-Motherboard-Extension/dp/B0002J...

The reason I needed one, is I was building a circuit to fit
between a motherboard and a power supply. Those cables
are also useful if you want to do diagnostics (as you can
cut the wires on the extender to do measurements, rather than
cutting the wires on the device under test).

    Paul

Thanks.

It says ATX, but it seems like something like this would work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220656812596

BTW. Any idea what I could put in my single PCI slot? All PCI cards I
have are to large. The bracket extends up too far.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
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