kony said:
Yes, of course it can be measured and that's exactly what I
meant when I wrote that the other parts run hotter. That
is, unless you don't mind noise, will be running the system
with higher fan RPM or more fans than it'd otherwise need.
I've yet to see my other parts get hotter when I cool off the hottest
parts first and expel their heat immediately. Why do you think the
ATX spec has the CPU put right next to the PSU fan? So its heat gets
expelled immediately. If it weren't for the PSU fan, I'd have to use
a side port to bring the cool outside air to the CPU and then use a
shroud to vent it out the backpanel rather than let that hot air go
warm up other parts. The other parts do not necessarily get hotter
just because you decide to better cool the hottest parts.
Cooling _what_ is best?
Are you still assuming the CPU temp is some evidence?
Stop focusing on the CPU. You keep coming back to that in the hopes
to divert attention that the rest of the insides get cooler if the CPU
is cooled with outside air directly and then its heat is expelled
immediately (through a shroud, duct, or through the PSU). I wasn't
the one that focused on just the CPU temp. I'm the one saying to
monitor ALL the temps. Well, you can monitor everything (or enough to
be sure) by using the CPU with its thermistor, the system temp
thermistor, and along with 2 or 4 more measuring probes (that you can
move around, like to hard drives, memory, video card etc.) to guage
the health of your machine. Even just 2 extra measuring probes that
you can move around will let you guage effects of changing your
airflows. Just measure, move them, measure again, and so on and after
you get what's best for your setup then you leave them on the more
critical components (since I only have two, I leave them on the video
card and whichever hard drive was found to run hottest). The CPU's
thermistor is a measure of its temperature, not of anything else. Its
probe, while not super accurate, doesn't need to be that accurate. I
don't care about absolute temperature when making case modifications.
I want to see if temps go up or down, and by how much, and in SEVERAL
different locations.
There is no need to get the CPU cooler if cool enough, if it
is nowhere near it's instability threshold. This is the
point you seem to keep ignoring, that once it is cool
ENOUGH, trying to divert airflow away from other things to
further cool it, has no benefit for the CPU, only detriment
for the parts then receiving less airflow.
I am not diverting airflow. I am zoning the airflow plus I am
*adding* MORE airflow. The hottest parts get their own airflow using
cooler outside air and preferrably to expel their heated air as soon
as possible. The rest of the components get their normal level of
cooling by using the incidental airflow or using their own added
airflow. Because the backpanel fan ends up bringing in cooler outside
air to the CPU which gets expelled through the PSU (which is the
normal exhaust path), yes, it is possible that the loss of the
backpanel fan would reduce airflow drawn around the upper card cage;
however, the ATX spec did not specify a rear backpanel fan but relied
on the PSU's fan (and why some PSUs provide 2 fans so if one fails
then the other is the backup). That's why I have the top exhaust fan
that ensures air is drawn through the front across the lower drive
cage, past the chipset and memory sticks, and even ensures air passes
the upper drive cage that normally has very stagnant airflow - and,
yes, sometimes hard drives do get put up there rather than just CD/DVD
drives, like to use silenced mounts (so the 3.5" drive has to be
mounted inside a cage that is LARGER than provided by the lower cage),
and even tape drives generate heat. Not everyone just puts a single
DVD drive up in a 4-drive cage. I get BETTER airflow with a case that
offers me more options than just one that stuck to the ATX spec and
ignored the statement regarding having to mod the case per your own
cooling requirements.
I don't dismiss the possibility someone could have a CPU
'sink poor enough that it just can't provide sufficient
cooling without an alteration to chassis airflow, but the
problem is more directly addressed by replacing the marginal
heatsink rather than sacrificing the temp of other parts
instead.
Stop buying cheap cases and get some thermocouples or a monitoring
kit. You don't have to sacrifice cooling to anything. It doesn't
have to be a loud case with more fans, either. Because you are simply
ensuring that airflow exists to the other components, and because the
ATX has stagnant spots anyway (card cage and upper drive cage), you
can use larger or slower moving fans to reduce noise. I like the
Scythe 120mm fans (
http://snipurl.com/xoap) better than the Panaflow
(which don't particularly sound that quiet to me).
Obviously the ATX design is not the best or even a good cooling
solution when just taking off the side panel and pointing a table fan
to the inside will cool all components better than relying on a single
twisting and bending airflow that majorly travels upward from the
lower front intake to just midway up and then out past the CPU and the
PSU. If that pattern was so excellent, why don't air conditioned
buildings simply blow in the cold air into the bottom floor and have
grilled floors to suck it out the top floor (or at a mid-level floor
as does the ATX case)? Air conditioning buildings are zoned.
You can get a smoke gun at many hobby shops. The one that I got was
from Dad who is an HVAC contractor. It uses glass cartridges that get
their tip broken off. When the chemical inside hits the atmosphere it
produces what looks like stranded smoke (since normal smoke is a
particulate that disperses quickly and becomes hard to see any airflow
but can show stagnant areas). You use either tubing or a metal tube
to inject the smoke at any point inside the case to instantly *see*
the airflow. I'm not a fan of windowed side panels but it's easy to
fab up a sheet of plexiglass and use foam weatherstriping and a bungie
cord to seal it against the case. Under the old ATX design, the front
air got sucked past the lower drive cage and moved upward. The card
area wasn't overlay stagnant but it also didn't receive much airflow.
If you add a fan at the front and with no drives, the air would whoosh
into the card area and then become turbulent and slowly rise past the
cards toward the CPU. With drives added to the lower cage, the air
got more turbulent so a bit more would get sucked up towards the CPU
and PSU. With or without a front fan, the upper drive cage was always
stagnant unless you added an opening (by removing a bay cover or
adding a grill there. A top hole by itself didn't seem to much reduce
the stagnant airflow for the upper cage but adding a fan (exhaust
mode) worked well. I didn't play around with what happens when using
a fan in a bay slot (to see if intake or exhaust was better). The
stagnant upper cage isn't a problem unless you put hard drives or tape
drives up there but obviously there is no harm in NOT having stagnant
airflow up there and you don't have to worry if you latter ass a
larger heat producer up there. With a side panel port (exhaust mode,
NOT intake) and a top fan (exhaust mode) and no front fan, some of the
air got sucked across the cards and out and some got sucked up towards
the PSU and top fan, but most went out the side port and why I the fan
at the top helped pull it up that way to both go over the chipset and
memory and also de-stagnate the upper drive cage.
Even low RPM fans improved airflow through the case and they are
quiet. Yeah, I know they tend to say they are whisper quiet but the
constant "whisper" is still there. Yet my new case with its 3 added
fans (plus the CPU and PSU fans) is quieter than my traditional setups
using a standard "closed" ATX case that has to use much higher CFM
fans but still doesn't cool as well. As you mention, there is no
point in moving more air than necessary around ANY part plus some
folks get ridiculously attached to having the lowest temperature.
Some think they must have the CPU below 40 C and yet its *working*
range goes up to 80 C. I've had the CPU running stable for 4 years at
55 C (at which point the fan RPM gets raised). I don't overclock.
While I won't touch Dad's airflow meters that measure rate or bother
to check effective CFM, the lower temperatures measured at several
places for my new setup clearly shows that adding the low RPM, low
noise fans (which have lower CFM but cumulatively are greater) along
with adding or zoning the airflows has helped to reduce tempertures
(notice the plural since I'm not talking about just the CPU's
temperature).
System impedance (to airflow) is different with every case and changes
(worsens) depending on what you put into the case and how sloppy or
neat you are regarding cabling. So the ATX spec'ed case will NOT
always have the best cooling and may not even have good cooling. The
spec even tells you to mod to ensure proper cooling. Also, you want
to setup an exhaust-to-intake CFM ratio of 2:1 (i.e., your [potential]
exhaust rate is twice your intake rate). This will provide negative
pressure inside the case. Cooling works better at lower pressures.
The biggest impedance are those stupid front panel grills (which are
few, small, and too much metal between them) and/or doors. Being
pretty often obviates good cooling. Sometimes its too hard (and
becomes too ugly) to fix that problem; however, sometimes you can snip
out the slot holes to make a bigger hole (and then put over a filter
over the hole to make it look nicer and reduce dust intake). As
opposed to cases that have a pretty, smooth, and rather restrictive
front and which often rely on sucking in from the bottom through an
area that is half, or less, of the intake surface of the 120mm intake
fan, I like cases that are open in the front (like the Lian case at
http://snipurl.com/xobg) or change them to put a grill right in front
of the intake fan.
While I may play around trying to reduce temperatures, I don't go nuts
trying to get the coldest temperatures, just something better than the
default setup but the system must still be whisper quiet. If noise
were of no concern then, yes, a completely sealed case with one intake
and one exhaust port (and perhaps vanes to ensure no stagnant areas)
would be best but the noise from the high CFM fans (higher for the
exhaust) would mean having to bury it in a closest. So far I haven't
been attracted to water-cooled setups. And something like Zalman TNN
500AF is just too damn pricey for me (plus its PSU is too weak for
me).