Cheap fire suppression system for a PC?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave C.
  • Start date Start date
Ken said:
Total BS. Post a citation or link to these photos so
we can get the whole story.
Click to expand...

It was probably 10 years ago, and you shouldn't call people liars,
little boy.
 
kony said:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:35:06 -0700 (PDT),


Can't speak for all of them, but generally the plastic gets
brittle and a little tab or post breaks, meaning it would
have worked to interrupt power fine as needed, or from your
test, but won't reset after that failure or test... so in
other words, up to you how often to test vs replace, but I
would think about a surge protector for the premises if
parts rupture.
Click to expand...

The first Woods GFI had been subject of a recall by the company, but
they merely told customers to press the test button before each use,
not return the unit.
Fortunately that is not possible by any normal failure
method.

1) P3 had thermal shutdown, maybe it was an Athlon prior to
the motherboards having thermal shutdown.

2) Vinyl tubing doesn't melt at a very low temp, something
else was going on that was already a severe system failure
independent of the tubing. Might have been PSU, or
motherboard shorting out, CPU alone cannot create enough
heat to melt the solder on the heatsink, it would have far
sooner ruptured and PSU shut off.

3) PSU being crude /defective is the likely problem, any
normal PSU would shut down from overcurrent condition long
before delivering enough heat to melt solder on a heatsink
or melt vinyl tubing. It just isn't a realistic failure
scenario with any properly built PC, water-cooled or not.

4) As I've mentioned previously, the electrical wiring
insulation itself has no higher temp rating than the melting
point of vinyl tubing. If excessive temps are the problem
then we start drifting into the topic of lowest melting
point materials and rewiring everything with teflon wiring
but does anyone do that for a PC?

Regardless of the above I'd love to see those pics.
Click to expand...

I wish I could find them. The water block was just a box of flat
copper pieces soldered together, and a sheet of solder spanning at
least 3" completely coated a part of the motherboard. I'm guessing a
CPU can generate enough power to melt solder, if it doesn't shut down
first, as 20C/W isn't unreasonable for a small water block running dry.
 
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