On Thu, 15 Sep 2005 01:04:25 -0700, Father Kodak
OK, I'll add my thoughts to the mix.
(Sorry, I didn't mean to get carried away)
I just joined this group, and just read 40+ messages on this topic.
All I can say is,
1. there appear to be two viable non-vendor choices. Silverfast and
VueScan.
Don't discard NikonScan either
2.Neither one sounds "ideal."
I've not found one yet, I'd consider "ideal". Each has their points.
I contantly switch between NikonScan and VueScan. I like them both.
3. This discussion seems to have morphed into a software engineering
food fight. I work in a Silicon Valley enterprise software company
(though in marketing, not engineering), so I can appreciate this
discussion in a way. However, I suspect most readers of this group
don't care any longer.
Can I restart this discussion, for my particular situation. My
questions, for the situation below, are:
1. Between Silverfast and VueScan, which gives me the highest degree
of automation when I need it (for a box of slides or strip of film)?
"I think" VueScan will give you a higher degree of control, but with
that comes a steeper learning curve, and more work at least initially.
On thing to remember about slides. NO program or pieces of equipment
is completely reliable with auto feeders. It may run trouble free for
hours only to jam when you turn your back, or it may jam incessantly.
This is more the fault of the slides than the equipment. Paper slide
holders are prone to curling as well as edge curling and spreading.
Some plastic slide mounts refuse to feed in specific directions. I
had several thousand that would only feed backwards which is no big
problem, you just have to remember to do it.
2. Which gives me the most flexible options for a custom settings, for
a more precise scan, probably one at a time?
Again, I would say, VueScan, but much of the work will most likely go
just fine using NikonScan.
3. In real life, under real usage, what is the minimum PC config I
would want to run your recommended software? processor speed, RAM,
disk storage.
Image processing is one of the most CPU intensive operations you can
find. As an opinion, get the biggest, baddest machine you can afford
and then at least tripple the size of the drive you thought you
needed.
4. Assuming that I expect my workflow (I haven't gone digital quite
yet) to be "centered" on Photoshop, not Photoshop Elements, which
version of Silverfast would I want? And why?
I'd get the latest version of what ever, but check the forums to see
if any one is having a problem with a specific scanner with that
version.
5. As a side question, what are the specific issues regarding
Kodachrome and recent model Nikon scanners? Can either of these two
packages compensate for these issue?
Some claim so, I've never seen any "with the exception" of the IR
cleaning regardless of scanner can be inconsistent between batches of
Kodachrome. It's a dye transfer process which is quite different from
Ektachrome, Fuji, and others (E7).
6. Can either of these packages utilize the built-in image correction
features such as ICE, etc.
Kinda, sorta. They have their own way of using the IR source, but
*seem* to work fine for me with the exception of some Kodachrome.
Now, thank you for reading this far. Here is my situation:
I have:
5000+ black and white negs, mostly Plus-X and
Tri-X, home developed in various developers. Maybe a small amount of
black and white film based on C-41.
ICE does not work with B & W negatives so you do not have the luxury
of IR scratch and dust removal. I've not seen a small scanner yet
where I liked the results with B & W, but there are many I haven't
tried as well.
About 1000 color negatives, various Kodak films, C-22 and C-41
processes. Mostly in 4 or 6 image strips.
At least 8000 Kodachrome 25 and 64 slides. K12 and K14
processes. 2 x 2 mounts. Mostly Kodak, some third party lab in
either cardboard or plastic. Some in uncut rolls.
How long have your had these masochistic tendencies?
You are talking many hundreds of hours of work here.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/scanning.htm may help, but I do need to
update it.
About 1000 Ektachrome high speed slides, pushed to 1600 and
3200. Mostly cardboard mounts. Some in rolls.
Rolls are easier in 5 image strips (standard holder size) or if you
have a roll adapter. If you have negatives or positives rolled up
tight you will never do so again after trying to scan the warped
little buggers.
I would like to scan most of these images, and do my sorting/culling
after scanning, particular the negatives. Probably in Photoshop, on a
20" monitor. Beats a loupe.
There may be some you not only don't want to bother scanning, there
may be some you don't want to get in your equipment. As the basic
scanning with IR cleaning on the LS-5000 ED runs about 30 seconds and
you can easily take that well past a minute culling does make sense.
I did the "old family photos" so every thing was scanned and I
probably have another year or two working part time to finish. I'm
past twenty some thousand and have about 70 some DVDs full with
another set as backup.
If you use Photoshop in conjunction with VueScan it can open the
images automatically in Photoshop for editing. Scanning a strip of
five negatives or slides takes a lot of resources. When you add
Photoshop to that and the images to it, you need a *LOT* of
horsepower. I found going from 512 megs to one Gig of RAM was like
night and day. This computer is a 64 bit, 3.4 Gig Athlon with 2 Gigs
of DDR RAM at 400 MHz. The network is approaching three *terabytes*
and will hit four shortly.
I do make liberal use of external USB drives. A couple of them are
250 Gig, but the last three are all 300 Gig. They are faster than
most networks, but I'm using a hardwired gigabit network via Cat5e.
Most of the machines have two external drives and two or three
internal. One has a 400 Gig SATA RAID and this one will be getting
one soon.
One note on the USB drives. If you purchase the drive and enclosure
seperately you can get the very same drive and enclosure for $30 to
$50 less. This involves about 4 screws and two cables. Either way
you still have to format the drive. I leave them as all one
partition.
Being a looong time Nikon user, I will probably opt for the 5000 plus
the slide autoloader, so I can batch-scan overnight. With this volume
Probably not. The autoloader is a nice one, but you are at the mercy
of your slides. You learn to roll the edges of paper slide holders by
smoothing them with the back of a thumbnail or the handle of a kitchen
knife.
to be scanned, I can justify the cost of the scanner plus slide
autoloader. Besides, I will stay with film for at least one more
year, possibly longer, until the Nikon digital camera of my "dreams"
is on the market and at a reasonable price. I expect this to occur
not before 2007, maybe 2008.
Going with the voice of experience I'd say It's going to take you
longer than that to scan in all those images.
As to the dream camera, I have a couple of nice digital cameras, but
nothing fancy. A Olympus E20N and a Nikon D70 with a good set of
lenses. I also have an F4S and my spare is an 8008S. I gave up long
ago waiting for my "dream camera".
So I expect to end up scanning 15 K, maybe up to 20K images My
equipment cost per scan could be well under ten cents, or ten plus
scans for one dollar US.
That is one big job.
Having my druthers, I would like a "RAW" format output done at 2000
lines or greater. I expect to be doing digital photography with RAW
format.
Tis not quite the same thing, but you can scan with the basic settings
set to get the most out of image's dynamic range and then post
process. I scan at 4000 dpi, but you are looking at some very *large*
files. That's 60 some megs per image at 8 bit color depth and 128
megs at 16 bit color depth for a full frame 35 mm negative of slide.
(I'm upgrading my PC in anticipation of large files and many of them.
I will probably use an 80/160 GB SCSI tape drive for backup.
My smallest drive is a 250 Gig although I do have a 400 Gig RAID made
from two 200 Gig SATA drives.
My own preference is to stay as far away from tape drives as I can
get. My profession was computers, I have my degree in the field, and
I worked my way up to project manager so I have more than a passing
acquaintance with them. Good tape drives are expensive and do not
allow for random searches as you can do on a CD and DVD.
All 4 computers here have dual layer DVD drives. Single layer DVDs
(4.6 Gig) are almost free if you shop around a bit. My last 25 were
free with rebate and I think I paid 20 or 30 cents for the hundred
prior to those.
A word of caution on storage of digital images. No medium is
permanent. Generally, magnetic media such as hard drives are
considered temporary although I'd think they have lifetimes measured
in years. If you use windows, use NTFS and not FAT 32.
"We thought" images were going to be long lived on CD and DVD, but
some strange ailments are turning up in some isolated cases. Remember
the back of the CD is sensitive to damage while the face can be
blocked with scratches and dirt. Still the information is burned into
the layer on the back. DVDs are a sandwich and are sensitive to
flexing. The writing is done between the two layers of plastic. Do
not pop them out of jewel cases by lifting on the edges. Press down in
the center and dump it in your hand, but holding it by the edges.
Store CDs and DVDs on edge, in a cool dry place out of direct
sunlight.
Remember too, that no mater how good your filing system, your back up
system, and your equipment, most trashed files come from user mistakes
and not the equipment.
Good Luck,
(20,000 plus done, another few thousand to go and about 200# of prints
yet to scan)
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com