Slow death of a PC

[jidan1]

Procedure for a solution has been posted many times previously such
as in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general on 7 Jun 2006 entitled
"Dead computer" or at
http://tinyurl.com/qcvuq

Start by breaking the problem into parts. For example, first verify
power supply system. From what is posted, nothing says that system is
working. This procedure can isolate possible problems to power supply,
power supply controller, or switch.

Once power supply system is confirmed, only then move on to other
possible suspects. First step to a solution was described previously
in that other newsgroup.

Possible that this problem could have been detected by above
procedure back when the problem caused a shutdown weeks ago. Having
made so many changes, further 'elimination' should not be necessary
until after the above test completes. Fan spinning and light
illuminated tell us little that is useful. It only says power cord is
connected to live electricity.

First establish power supply 'system' integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter. Yes, the system is more than just a power supply. Later
you can continue with the few remaining suspects. A power supply,
motherboard, CPU, speaker (no Ram, keyboard, mouse, video controller,
etc) should still cause a speaker beep on power up. But this second
test is only informative after above procedure using the multimeter.

As I said before, I tried using another power supply (which was working
in another PC) and still it didnt work. Therefore its not the power
supply.

 

[w_tom]

You are confusing power supply with power supply 'system'. Power
supply is only one component of the power supply system - and just
another reason why shotgunning takes longer to fix thngs.

That procedure would point to a reason for failure or would eliminate
the entire power supply 'system' as a reason for failure.

 

[w_tom]

It might be this. So replace that. It might be the other thing. So
remove this. Classic shotgunning. What is so often recommended when
basic computer knowledge (including how electricity works) is unknown?

A 2002 motherboard may be losing its battery. This would be obvious
weeks ago from a clock that slowly loses time with each reboot.
However (and again), this is where the multimeter is again used.
Measure DC voltage on that battery - either still on motherboard or
when temporarily removed. If a 3 volt battery is significantly below
say 2.7 volts, then at least one problem is located. If 3 volt battery
is down to 2.7 volts, battery is ready for replacement anyway. Another
example of using diagnostic tools to either find the problem before
fixing it (and therefore knowing it really was a problem) or using a
diagnostic tool to eliminate a problem before problem occurs.

Lithium batteries are typically good for 5 years.

Don't remove the CPU. That just adds more reasons for failure AND
fixes nothing. Another classic example 'try this and try that'.

Breaking the problem into parts. For example, first verify power
supply *system*. From what is posted (including shotgunning a power
supply), nothing says that PSU 'system' is working. Those multimeter
numbers are that important.

If memory (RAM) was defective, system will still execute BIOS and put
messages on screen. Previously posted is how to proceed after
confirming power supply 'system' works. Continue with the few
remaining suspects (because you have already removed so much). A power
supply, motherboard, CPU, speaker (no Ram, keyboard, mouse, video
controller, etc) should still cause a speaker beep on power up. Notice
testing that does not even need RAM - which again eliminates all this
shotgunning. This second 'stripped down' test is only informative
after confirming power supply 'system' using the multimeter.

 

[jidan1]

It might be this. So replace that. It might be the other thing. So
remove this. Classic shotgunning. What is so often recommended when
basic computer knowledge (including how electricity works) is unknown?

A 2002 motherboard may be losing its battery. This would be obvious
weeks ago from a clock that slowly loses time with each reboot.
However (and again), this is where the multimeter is again used.
Measure DC voltage on that battery - either still on motherboard or
when temporarily removed. If a 3 volt battery is significantly below
say 2.7 volts, then at least one problem is located. If 3 volt battery
is down to 2.7 volts, battery is ready for replacement anyway. Another
example of using diagnostic tools to either find the problem before
fixing it (and therefore knowing it really was a problem) or using a
diagnostic tool to eliminate a problem before problem occurs.

Lithium batteries are typically good for 5 years.

If the CMOS battery was low, the only problem I would have is setting
the BIOS everytime I restart the PC. My case it totally different.

Breaking the problem into parts. For example, first verify power
supply *system*. From what is posted (including shotgunning a power
supply), nothing says that PSU 'system' is working. Those multimeter
numbers are that important.

OK, I will get a multimeter and try that. However, I tried another PSU
fromanother PC and still it didnt work.

If memory (RAM) was defective, system will still execute BIOS and put
messages on screen.

Actually No. I tried it once removing the RAM to see what will happen
if the PC has no RAM. When I pressed the ON switch, I got black
screen(no BIOS), and nothing happins other than the fans turning. Its
exactly the same situation now. Thats why I thought at first it was the
RAM. But then I swapped the RAM(I have two RAM stick), put one in left
the other out, etc..but nothing changed.

Previously posted is how to proceed after confirming power supply 'system' works. Continue with the few
remaining suspects (because you have already removed so much). A power
supply, motherboard, CPU, speaker (no Ram, keyboard, mouse, video
controller, etc) should still cause a speaker beep on power up. Notice
testing that does not even need RAM - which again eliminates all this
shotgunning. This second 'stripped down' test is only informative
after confirming power supply 'system' using the multimeter.

I will get a multimeter and report on later my results.

Thank you very much!