D
A
Adam
David H. Lipman said:
Thanks, that's what I was afraid of, a bad JetDirect card.
I printed out the Menu Map and there is nothing under
the "I/O Menu" other than ...
1) Parallel Adv Communication = ON
2) Parallel High Speed = YES
3) I/O Timeout = 15 seconds
D
David H. Lipman
From: "Adam said:
Sorry... :-(
In parallel to the "Parallel Port" configuration sub-menu should have been EIO.
With the power off, you may try removing the EIO card (two screws) and the reseat the
card.
You can still get a replacment EIO or an external unit.
A
Adam
David H. Lipman said:
Yep, I will try reseating the JetDirect card later when I get a chance.
If that doesn't work, what's a good replacement network card for
the LaserJet 4100?
Thanks for all the guidance. It really helps speed up the process.
D
David H. Lipman
From: "Adam said:
Any of the following EIO cards; 600N, 610N and 615N.
External JetDirect: 300x
A
Adam
David H. Lipman said:
Thanks, I'll look into a new EIO card if reseating does not work.
Also, I'm not sure whether it's my imagination or not but,
last night, there was a Windows update and the Print dialog box
seems to open without delay. I'll wait a few days and
see if the delay comes back.
J
John John MVP
Where did you get this JetDirect 610N card? Is this a second hand card?
These cards were assembled with cold/low temp solder and they are well
known to fail because of this particular solder. You can try to bake
the JetDirect card in an oven at 400F for 5 minutes (propped up on 4
screws) and see if the card comes back to life. No kidding, this works
on about 95% of these dead JetDirect cards, I had this same problem and
it worked for me. Read the thread here:
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/laser/47177
John
A
Adam
John John MVP said:
Thanks (Guru John), I bought the printer used from a shop.
The JetDirect card came with the printer.
At first, I assumed that it was a JetDirect 610N because
the driver CD's JetDirect Manual (hpjdagen.pdf) is for 610N.
But, the Configuration Page that came with the printer says
that it's a J6057A (or 615N), which I now believe it to be.
And, will be able to confirm this when the JetDirect card is removed.
Hmmm ... I'm not sure what exactly "propped up on 4 screws" means.
Is there a photo? I don't want to mess up.
J
John John MVP
Folks in the forum in the link supplied say that the trick can also fix
615N cards.
Before you stick the card in the oven remove the plastic bezel as it may
discolor or melt in the oven. The card should be elevated so as to not
rest on any surface as this may dislodge some of the small soldered pins
from their holes. You also want to keep the card level so that the
solder doesn't flow to one side. There is a small hole at each corner
of the card, you can just use small sheet metal screws 1 inch long or so
and just engage them by one thread or so in the small holes, just enough
to elevate the card and keep it level while it bakes.
It's best to use oven safe glassware or Pyrex dish to hold the card, a
metal cookie sheet or the likes may twist or 'pop' up at one corner when
heated and this may jar the card or cause the solder to flow away from
the pins, glassware will stay level and it will not suddenly 'pop' when
heated. If you don't have oven safe glassware you can use a cast iron
frying pan or something else that will stay level and not pop up when
heated.
Preheat the oven to 400F then put the glassware holding the card in the
oven and bake it for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes turn off the oven and
open the door and let it cool down, you don't want to slide out the oven
wire shelf and rattle the card or handle the card when it is hot, this
may cause the solder to flow away from the pins or you may dislodge
things while the solder is soft. Open the door and don't touch anything
and let it cool down to allow the solder to solidify properly before you
handle the card.
And if it doesn't work... well the card doesn't work now so there isn't
much to lose giving it a try, it worked for me and many of the others
who posted on the forum.
John
P
Paul
Adam said:
To me, it looks like the guilty chip could be the square one.
I can't tell from the picture, whether that chip is BGA or
a pin grid array, but my guess based on symptoms, is the
chip is a BGA or ball grid array (as they respond to this
kind of reheating repair).
http://www.pacificgeek.com/productimages/xl/WPRLN003.jpg
What happens in some cases, is there is mechanical stress on
the corner ball grid array solder joints, and a ball can crack.
Heating the chip up, can "reflow solder" the ball again,
re-forming a proper connection.
You would have to be careful, as making the solder under that
chip molten, would also cause adjacent components and their
solder to melt as well. If you bump any of the other
components, while the card is hot, it could knock a
component off.
They make rework stations, which may have a heating mechanism that
heats an area on the bottom of the printed circuit board (underneath
the ball grid array chip), while the hot air device and shaped hood,
fits over the top of the chip. The device may even include an
automated temperature profile (soak and reflow), to reduce
stress on the workpiece.
http://www.zeph.com/bgarework_stations_systems_qfn_smd_hot_air_repair.htm
When you use your own hot air gun, oven or other heating solution,
you're duplicating what a professional device like that does,
only without the benefit of controlled temperature profile, clamping,
and both-sides-heating. A hot air gun doesn't have any heat control
and you don't know how hot you're getting the chip. Crude rework
machines, may include a thermocouple for monitoring workpiece
temperature.
Now, that rework machine, also includes a vacuum wand for picking up
the chip. So you can heat the chip, and a sucker placed against
the chip lid is used to lift the hot chip right off the board.
That is for cases where the chip needs to be replaced. Your
problem would be simpler, in that you're reheating the solder
underneath the chip, and reflowing a connection that is cracked
or no longer making connections.
The notion of "lifting the board with four screws" is using
screws as a mechanical support. The PCB may have some manufacturing
holes on it, and you may be able to elevate the board that way,
using the screws as standoffs.
People who use ovens for this (like a toaster oven),
generally use a "disposable" oven, an oven they won't be using
for cooking food. Heating an assembly like that, is likely
to burn the plastic. You'd at least try to remove any removable
plastic bits first, before doing the repair. By using a
toaster oven out of doors, you might even avoid stinking
up the premises.
A hot air gun, would control to some extent what part of
the PCB and components get hot, but without a shaped hood
to fit the part, you're still going to get adjacent parts
hot. On our hot air rework station at work, we had a drawer
full of various hoods, sized for particular chip sizes, so
you'd use just the right one for the job. But I never got
to use the machine, and there was one guy who was good at
using it, that did any repairs of that type. I didn't
even stick around to watch.
http://www.aoyue.com/en/UploadFiles/2006816114422225.jpg
Paul
A
Adam
John John MVP said:
Thanks (Guru Paul & John), it's a JetDirect 615n (confirmed with a mirror).
You all don't know how BADLY I want to pull that card out and
bake it ASAP but can't due to a project deadline.
It's probably for the best so that I can think carefully through the process.
All the plastics (bezel, connectors, etc.) is exactly what
I wondered about last night. So, I was thinking of taking
a conservative, focused and progressively hotter approach,
especially since I don't have the proper equipment.
As soon as I can, I'll probably try the hair dryer method first.
A
Adam
Adam said:Thanks (Guru Paul & John), it's a JetDirect 615n (confirmed with a
mirror).
You all don't know how BADLY I want to pull that card out and
bake it ASAP but can't due to a project deadline.
It's probably for the best so that I can think carefully through the
process.
All the plastics (bezel, connectors, etc.) is exactly what
I wondered about last night. So, I was thinking of taking
a conservative, focused and progressively hotter approach,
especially since I don't have the proper equipment.
As soon as I can, I'll probably try the hair dryer method first.
Sorry for being away for so long but I now also have the following option
....
- TRENDnet 1-Port Parallel Print Server TE100-P1P
since fixing the JetDirect print server seems like a temporary solution.
It's a matter of time before the problem resurfaces.
But, I'm having a hard time configuring the TRENDnet PS.
It keeps killing my network connection. Any ideas?
D
David H. Lipman
From: "Adam said:
http://www.trendnet.com/products/proddetail.asp?prod=120_TE100-P1P&cat=26
Can you plaese elaborate on "It keeps killing my network connection."
A
Adam
David H. Lipman said:
Yes, you have the right TRENDnet TE100-P1P Parallel Print Server link.
I have "manually" set the IP address.
And, here's my router ...
LINKSYS BEFSR41 EtherFast Cable/DSL Router
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124001
http://support.radioshack.com/support_accessories/doc66/66591.pdf
However, when the network cable connects the TRENDnet PS to the router,
I lose the network connection. I suspect that "manually" setting the IP
address is
conflicting with the DHCP server? And, I need to configure the router with
the static IP address. But, how?
D
David H. Lipman
From: "Adam said:
What "IP address", "net mask" and "gateway address" are you setting the Print Server to ?
N
Norman Peelman
I would use MAC address / ip address reservation on the router
instead any settings on the printer.
E
Elmo P. Shagnasty
"Adam" <adam@no_thanks.com> said:
as long as we're not trimming posts, how did you like scrolling all the
way down to read this?
A
Adam
David H. Lipman said:
Thanks, Dave!
IP Address: 192.168.1.106 (which is outside the DHCP server's address
range)
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway: 192.168.1.1
MAC address was not changed at all.
The only way I can get this information is with
a direct connection to the computer (not through network).
A
Adam
Norman Peelman said:
Thanks, like the router, the MAC address / IP address is
programmed into the print server connected to the printer.
I'm not sure that it can be done another way with the TRENDnet.
D
David H. Lipman
From: "Adam said:
Well, that is the correct network. It doesn't make a difference if it is within the DHCP
Server range or not. The DHCP Server would see the address had been assigned and choose
the next unassigned addres.
Force the Print Server to be 10MB/s non-Duplex. Then try 100Mb/s non-Duplex.