Power Supply

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=|[ Philip Callan's ]|= said:
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Creeping Stone wrote:

|
| So you get corsair, lan-li, antec, plextor, raptor....
| good for you,
| I dont rekon its worth the extra expense -especialy when you can check
| specs yourself, and as I said, its rather illegal in my country at
least to
| lie about electrical products technical capabilities.
|
| -I think ;).

Like this page:

http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle1.html

Which will explain a lot about generic vs real brand PSU's, and explain
load testing and how even a good 350W can outpower one of the no-name
500W POS's

Philip
Click to expand...

Thats an article written by Antec, for Antec, that is anti anything
non-Antec, incapable of containing any information beyond
Antecs marketing preferences.

Its singular purpose is to Market Antec by entrancing technically intrested
but naive surfers... maybe also to give Antec owners a nice warm fuzzy
feeling and something to post in groups to demonstrate their wisdom and
prudence in being the proud owners of an Antec.

Its the type of article one might glean information from if already
equiped with a secure understanding of the topic.

(its just a bl**dy advert!)

Antec:
"So now that you have yet another thing to worry about,
what can you do about it? "
Click to expand...
Me:
Get outta my face!

(antec article -not you kind poster ;)
 
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Creeping Stone wrote:
| =|[ Philip Callan's ]|= wrote:
|
|
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|>
|>Creeping Stone wrote:
|>
|>|
|>| So you get corsair, lan-li, antec, plextor, raptor....
|>| good for you,
|>| I dont rekon its worth the extra expense -especialy when you can check
|>| specs yourself, and as I said, its rather illegal in my country at
|>least to
|>| lie about electrical products technical capabilities.
|>|
|>| -I think ;).
|>
|>Like this page:
|>
|>http://www.antec-inc.com/pdf/article/info_DIYArticle1.html
|>
|>Which will explain a lot about generic vs real brand PSU's, and explain
|>load testing and how even a good 350W can outpower one of the no-name
|>500W POS's
|>
|>Philip
|
|
| Thats an article written by Antec, for Antec, that is anti anything
| non-Antec, incapable of containing any information beyond
| Antecs marketing preferences.
|

How does load calculations, and specifications for loads/voltage
regulation not count as 'information'

| Its singular purpose is to Market Antec by entrancing technically
intrested
| but naive surfers... maybe also to give Antec owners a nice warm fuzzy
| feeling and something to post in groups to demonstrate their wisdom and
| prudence in being the proud owners of an Antec.

Wisdom is right.

|
| Its the type of article one might glean information from if already
| equiped with a secure understanding of the topic.
|

Since you seem to disregard the content, simply because of the domain,
perhaps this page (which INDEPENDANTLY tests all the PSU's they
recommend) would be better:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/modul...ns&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=28&page=1
or
http://makeashorterlink.com/?L21232614

The article is three pages long, please pay attention to the blue
sidebar on the right of page 2 for how Generic vs Brand Name *REALLY*
adds up when it comes to true wattage.


| (its just a bl**dy advert!)

Sure the 'Antec power supply is the leader in blah blah blah' is an ad,
but the specification sheets available showing true load testing are
FACTS, and being that you had advised someone else to 'read
specifications' I figured you would care to see what a real PSU is
supposed to do.

Provide the advertised wattage under FULL LOAD, Do it for more than 10
minutes sustained, and do it without Voltage Regulation taking a
nosedive and giving me shitty rails.
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=|[ Philip Callan's ]|= said:
| Thats an article written by Antec, for Antec, that is anti anything
| non-Antec, incapable of containing any information beyond
| Antecs marketing preferences.
|

How does load calculations, and specifications for loads/voltage
regulation not count as 'information'
Click to expand...
Its selective information, which will lead to misunderstanding.
| Its singular purpose is to Market Antec by entrancing technically
intrested
| but naive surfers... maybe also to give Antec owners a nice warm fuzzy
| feeling and something to post in groups to demonstrate their wisdom and
| prudence in being the proud owners of an Antec.

Wisdom is right. Fortune perhaps ;)
|
| Its the type of article one might glean information from if already
| equiped with a secure understanding of the topic.
|
Since you seem to disregard the content, simply because of the domain,
perhaps this page (which INDEPENDANTLY tests all the PSU's they
recommend) would be better:
Click to expand...
Honestly, i got as far as the 'oh your scared let me explain' hustle and
then scanned the rest'
http://www.silentpcreview.com/modul...ns&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=28&page=1
or http://makeashorterlink.com/?L21232614
Click to expand...

I might read them sometime, whether they turn out to be independant and
prove the case that all, most even, generic psu's are poor value - I doubt
with other principles.
The article is three pages long, please pay attention to the blue
sidebar on the right of page 2 for how Generic vs Brand Name *REALLY*
adds up when it comes to true wattage.
Click to expand...
You pay attention to your suppliers.
| (its just a bl**dy advert!)
Click to expand...

Thats the only point I should have made really, its an advert, all these
things are adverts except honest, casual, experience occasionaly given
without being accompanied near or far by profit motives.

One post in this thread -from the forums near enough freakin PSU expert has
given this technical forum useful information -and if you go back and read
the bottom of it, it recommends usuing the individual voltage line ratings
to rate PSUs -NOT whether or not they're an elite brand or a brown box.
The Technical specs that is (illegal to falsify) Not the silly 350w or
whatever rating, the specs described in this thread.

That is the technical information this technical forum provides to allow us
to cut through the hype and all of the circumstantial after insubstantial,
reviews that there are to link away to your hearts content.
Sure the 'Antec power supply is the leader in blah blah blah' is an ad,
but the specification sheets available showing true load testing are
FACTS, and being that you had advised someone else to 'read
specifications' I figured you would care to see what a real PSU is
supposed to do.
Click to expand...
I dont understand this branding elitism and over confidence in explicit
marketing literature. In the UK I believe as long as I buy a legal PSU
it will perform reliably to its specification whether it is branded or not.
And avoiding brands I can I avoid paying for all this BS too many are
inclined to swallow.
Provide the advertised wattage under FULL LOAD, Do it for more than 10
minutes sustained, and do it without Voltage Regulation taking a
nosedive and giving me shitty rails.
Click to expand...

That would be overkill, if you took the precaution yourself of making sure
the advertised wattage was more than you need - with generic brands you can
do this because they are already heavily safety and quality tested and
leave the pricey logos to the rich and the helpless.
 
Feel the overall weight of the supply and compare that way, the heavier the better!
Wattage ratings are not as important as the quality of components.
One post stated that your board needs 90 watts and the drive needed 10.....
That may be the theoretical power draw but the real world start-up current is quite
different, somewhere on the order of 10~100x of what the label on the bottom of the
drive says that's where quality components will shine over any bogus rated cheapy
lightweight supply.

--
Mainboards, Videocards & CPU pin repair.

http://motherboardrepair.com
(e-mail address removed)

I know this is a motherboard forum but im guessing you all would know if
your here anyway. Is there an easy way to tell what watt power supply i
should get? or any site you could direct me to,
Thanks
 
Darkfalz said:
Any good brand 300-400 watt should be fine. A good brand 250 watt will
perform better than a generic 400 watt, so obviously the most important
thing is to get a reputable brand (AOpen, Antec etc.).
Click to expand...

Bullshit!!!

I just went from an enermax EG-431 (79$ 2-3 years ago) that was choking when
I ran 3dmark03 with an 2500xp being run as a 3200xp on an NF-7S to a 25$
600W power supply that runs 3dmark03 just fine at 11X200. Looped for 8
hours straight in test mode. The enermax wasn't a bad unit, its 15 amps on
the 12v line simply wasn't enough. 24 amps with the Lead Power did the
trick. having a 9800, 3 7200rpm HD, 2 dvd's and 4 80mm fans with some other
misc stuff didn't help.

http://tinyurl.com/2czrp
 
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Leadfoot wrote:
|>
|>Any good brand 300-400 watt should be fine. A good brand 250 watt will
|>perform better than a generic 400 watt, so obviously the most important
|>thing is to get a reputable brand (AOpen, Antec etc.).
|
|
| Bullshit!!!
|
| I just went from an enermax EG-431 (79$ 2-3 years ago) that was
choking when
| I ran 3dmark03 with an 2500xp being run as a 3200xp on an NF-7S to a 25$
| 600W power supply that runs 3dmark03 just fine at 11X200. Looped for 8
| hours straight in test mode. The enermax wasn't a bad unit, its 15
amps on
| the 12v line simply wasn't enough. 24 amps with the Lead Power did the
| trick. having a 9800, 3 7200rpm HD, 2 dvd's and 4 80mm fans with some
other
| misc stuff didn't help.
|
| http://tinyurl.com/2czrp


Hmm, 2-3 years ago with processors and video cards pulling what they do,
no wonder it was adequate (but its still crap compared to a brand name)

First off your EG-431, is probably a lesser quality variant of this one
(the EG451P-VE)

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=409&page=4

Older review (which is very favorable, but compared to todays PSU , and
the new ATX specification, its a DOG)

The important part is here:

Operation Temperature

~ 0oC~25oCfor full rating of load,
~ decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70oC

Okay, that particular PSU does not use seperate voltage regulation on
each channel, so a heavy pull on your 12v rail will drag your others
down, and lower their true output you get that?

It will give that 15A on your 12v rail when its at 25 degrees Celsius.
Have you felt 25C ? its COOL, seeing as your body temp is like 37C, when
was (other than in the 15 seconds AFTER a POST) the last time you ever
had COOL air coming from your PSU? Every degree of heat it rises, it
LOSES efficiency, until it finally cant provide any of the rails proper
current, let along all of them.

Then go here:

http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/

Fire in your CPU/RAM/HD settings (I didnt know your RAM or extra
peripherals except the FANS, but I came up with 353W as your recommended
PSU.

That 4 year old powersupply, from the Celeron / Pentium 2 era, trying to
power a r9800 and a 2500xp (overclocked even! more draw on the rails)

No wonder you had problems.

The Enermax PSU has 0 problems, other than it was designed for far less
hungry devices and motherboards than todays computers, you putting a PSU
that couldnt realistically provide the current you needed, does not mean
that your POS 600w generic is better than an Enermax.

Philip
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I just went from an enermax EG-431 (79$ 2-3 years ago) that was choking
when
I ran 3dmark03 with an 2500xp being run as a 3200xp on an NF-7S to a 25$
600W power supply that runs 3dmark03 just fine at 11X200. Looped for 8
hours straight in test mode. The enermax wasn't a bad unit, its 15 amps on
the 12v line simply wasn't enough. 24 amps with the Lead Power did the
trick. having a 9800, 3 7200rpm HD, 2 dvd's and 4 80mm fans with some other
misc stuff didn't help.
Click to expand...

I have 8 amps on the 12v line in my 250 Watt PSU and run 2 7200 RPM HDs,
CDRW/DVD, Geforce FX card, 3 internal fans and the biggest wattage hog of
all, a P4 3.0 GHz.

So what were you saying? Funny how my good brand 250 Watt with 8 amps on the
12v performs as well as your 600 Watt generic piece of shit.
 
I have that Enermax 431 PS that he is referring to, and I run my system just
fine with it. Have had no power related problems at all.

1 P4 2.8Ghz (OC'd to 3.1Ghz)
2 sticks of Mushkin 512 mb memory
4 7200 rpm hard drives (2 Raid-0 Arrays)
1 CD-R
1 CD-RW
1 Zip 250
1 dvd-+/-rw
Soundblaster Audigy Platinum
Network Card
GeForce FX
1 120mm fan
3 80mm fans

If this system runs fine off of the PS, then just about any around today
will.
 
I guess you don't know how to read. I wasn't flaming the enermax

Quote:

The enermax wasn't a bad unit

Unquote

The 600W POS (as you put it) is working fine with a 450+watt load as
calculated from the website you provided. Not bad for 24$
 
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Leadfoot wrote:

| I guess you don't know how to read. I wasn't flaming the enermax
|
| Quote:
|
| The enermax wasn't a bad unit
|
| Unquote
|
| The 600W POS (as you put it) is working fine with a 450+watt load as
| calculated from the website you provided. Not bad for 24$

I guess you suffer the syndrome you accuse me of:

Quote:

|> Older review (which is very favorable, but compared to todays PSU , and
|> the new ATX specification, its a DOG)

or

|> The Enermax PSU has 0 problems, other than it was designed for far less
|> hungry devices and motherboards than todays computers, you putting a PSU
|> that couldnt realistically provide the current you needed, does not mean
|> that your POS 600w generic is better than an Enermax.

I never said you were flaming the enermax, but when "Darkfalz" wrote:

|> |>Any good brand 300-400 watt should be fine. A good brand 250 watt will
|> |>perform better than a generic 400 watt, so obviously the most important
|> |>thing is to get a reputable brand (AOpen, Antec etc.).

You cried "Bullshit" and then went on to describe how you took a 3yr old
+ powersupply with an inadequate 12v rail, tried to hook a newer spec
system drying far more load, and had problems, but when switching to
your generic 600w PSU, everything was fine.

Implying that the 600w was better than the Enermaxx

Thats the part I was contesting.

Generic PSU's will not perform better than their Brand counterparts *of
the same Wattage*

Simply because the machine 'runs' is not enough to say that its 'fine'

Consider why Generic PSU's simply add up their maximum load which it
cant realistically sustain for *ANY* period of time, since as soon as
they break 25C they start to degrade in performance, and no longer
output the W advertised, if they ever did. Brand PSU's are starting to
provide seperate voltage regulation for EACH rail (3.3/5v/12v) so that
large draws on any one rail it doesnt destabilize the other rails.

In probably 95% of generic PSU's, the 3.3 and 5v lines are together and
although their voltage 'ripple' may stay within ATX boundaries, its
5/10% are a far cry from the tolerated 3/5% on Brand PSU's (Antec,
Enermax, PP&C, Thermaltake etc)

I just dont like people *ever* giving the advice to get a Generic PSU,
since its one of the most critical parts in a system, and especially not
these ones adertised using stupid wattages.

A good power supply should perform within regulation under maximum load
conditions (that means that even when I pull its maximum rated wattage
from it, it should still not vary the rails beyond ATX tolerances)

That PSU is 600w in a fairy tale world where nothing exceeds 25C and
doesnt ask it to provide 600w true output for more than a few seconds
before dying.

Brand PSU's are always rated to what their TRUE Maximum Output Wattage
is (not theoretical) (sustained for 15-30 minutes depending on
manufacturer) and *THEN* under-rated, ie, if it pushes 395w, its not a
400w its a 330w, if it pushes 500, its sold as 425 or something, by
doing this, the assure that even under maximum RATED load, your voltage
regulation is still within tolerances.

As with most 'Generic' products, you get what you pay for.

Personally I think the idea of trusting a few hundred dollars worth of
hardware or more to a TWENTY-FOUR dollar PSU is asking for trouble.
You should consider running MBM or the like, and logging your voltages
for a few days, during all sorts of tasks, and watch for ripples.

Philip
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Philip Callan said:
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Leadfoot wrote:

| I guess you don't know how to read. I wasn't flaming the enermax
|
| Quote:
|
| The enermax wasn't a bad unit
|
| Unquote
|
| The 600W POS (as you put it) is working fine with a 450+watt load as
| calculated from the website you provided. Not bad for 24$

I guess you suffer the syndrome you accuse me of:

Quote:

|> Older review (which is very favorable, but compared to todays PSU , and
|> the new ATX specification, its a DOG)

or

|> The Enermax PSU has 0 problems, other than it was designed for far less
|> hungry devices and motherboards than todays computers, you putting a PSU
|> that couldnt realistically provide the current you needed, does not mean
|> that your POS 600w generic is better than an Enermax.

I never said you were flaming the enermax, but when "Darkfalz" wrote:

|> |>Any good brand 300-400 watt should be fine. A good brand 250 watt will
|> |>perform better than a generic 400 watt, so obviously the most important
|> |>thing is to get a reputable brand (AOpen, Antec etc.).

You cried "Bullshit" and then went on to describe how you took a 3yr old
+ powersupply with an inadequate 12v rail, tried to hook a newer spec
system drying far more load, and had problems, but when switching to
your generic 600w PSU, everything was fine.

Implying that the 600w was better than the Enermaxx
Click to expand...


I was saying bullshit on making sure to buy a brand name PSU at 4 times the
price.
Thats the part I was contesting.

Generic PSU's will not perform better than their Brand counterparts *of
the same Wattage*

Simply because the machine 'runs' is not enough to say that its 'fine'

Consider why Generic PSU's simply add up their maximum load which it
cant realistically sustain for *ANY* period of time, since as soon as
they break 25C they start to degrade in performance, and no longer
output the W advertised, if they ever did. Brand PSU's are starting to
provide seperate voltage regulation for EACH rail (3.3/5v/12v) so that
large draws on any one rail it doesnt destabilize the other rails.

In probably 95% of generic PSU's, the 3.3 and 5v lines are together and
although their voltage 'ripple' may stay within ATX boundaries, its
5/10% are a far cry from the tolerated 3/5% on Brand PSU's (Antec,
Enermax, PP&C, Thermaltake etc)
Click to expand...

About 90% or more of the branded PSU's have the 3.3 and 5V lines together
also. I think you can count the number where all three are separate on one
hand and usuallly it's the top end of the product line. They get quite
expensive

I just dont like people *ever* giving the advice to get a Generic PSU,
since its one of the most critical parts in a system, and especially not
these ones adertised using stupid wattages.

A good power supply should perform within regulation under maximum load
conditions (that means that even when I pull its maximum rated wattage
from it, it should still not vary the rails beyond ATX tolerances)

That PSU is 600w in a fairy tale world where nothing exceeds 25C and
doesnt ask it to provide 600w true output for more than a few seconds
before dying.
Click to expand...

My system is at 32C at the moment. I don't think I'm going to draw more
than 540W (600W- 10%) until AMD reaches the K10 generation (assuming AMD64
=K8) and I'm not really interested in trying to get 600W out of it. As long
as it handles 450-500W for the very low price of TWENTY-FOUR DOLLARS. I'm
happy


Brand PSU's are always rated to what their TRUE Maximum Output Wattage
is (not theoretical) (sustained for 15-30 minutes depending on
manufacturer) and *THEN* under-rated, ie, if it pushes 395w, its not a
400w its a 330w, if it pushes 500, its sold as 425 or something, by
doing this, the assure that even under maximum RATED load, your voltage
regulation is still within tolerances.

As with most 'Generic' products, you get what you pay for.

Personally I think the idea of trusting a few hundred dollars worth of
hardware or more to a TWENTY-FOUR dollar PSU is asking for trouble.
You should consider running MBM or the like, and logging your voltages
for a few days, during all sorts of tasks, and watch for ripples.
Click to expand...

Ahh you want me to use MBM in conjuction with the motherboard sensor to
determine what the regulation/ripple is of the power supply??? I have my
doubts about your technical ability if you really believe this

You don't do a SERIOUS test of a PSU with a motherboard sensor. You use a
voltmeter. Even better would be an Oscilloscope. I COULD do a voltmeter test
if I feel like spending the time to set it up and write down the results

But just to humor you I did a run of 3DMark03 with the MBM log turned on.
The highest percentage I got for regulation (12/3.3/5vdc) was 1.6%. I would
have liked to have done this over an extended period of time but there is a
limit of 1000 entries in the MBM log. I set it for 6 seconds Formula used
was Vhigh - Vlow / VAvg

I've erased the results but I can redo and post it someplace it if you'd
like and change the test conditions if you have a suggestion that makes
sense to me.

Anyway I'll laugh all the way to the bank

BTW the temp inside my case is about 32 C. Even though its February its a
little hot here in Phoenix.
 
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Leadfoot wrote:

|> I was saying bullshit on making sure to buy a brand name PSU at 4
times the
|> price.

Where did this 4x figure come from? it wasnt in the OP.

Okay, you obviously believe that paying 1000 dollars for a car that gets
you from A to B provided you have no more than # number of friends, and
provided the road is perfectly smooth, as opposed to paying 3-4000 for a
Truck that not only carries you, but 8 of your friends, up the side of a
mountain and through the mud.

|> About 90% or more of the branded PSU's have the 3.3 and 5V lines together
|> also. I think you can count the number where all three are separate
on one
|> hand and usuallly it's the top end of the product line. They get quite
|> expensive

Its usually the 'top' end of the product line since its what all QUALITY
~ psu's should start doing, especially given that a lot of newer devices
can really yank the heck out of a rail and destabilize the rest.

Its called Quality. You end up paying for it.

|> My system is at 32C at the moment. I don't think I'm going to draw more
|> than 540W (600W- 10%) until AMD reaches the K10 generation (assuming
AMD64
|> =K8) and I'm not really interested in trying to get 600W out of it.
As long
|> as it handles 450-500W for the very low price of TWENTY-FOUR DOLLARS. I'm
|> happy


Ok, so your saying for $24 bucks, that your happy with your 600 W PSU,
provided you dont pull more than 450-500W from it (thats called
OVERRATING the PSU) I never said you couldnt be happy, I just asked that
you stop saying that people should buy Generic.

For the cost of my Sonata case (170CAN) I got a TruePower 380S in it, I
briefly contemplated replacing with a higher 'wattage' but after looking
into it, I found that unlike the 600w that is adequate to 450-500, my
380w is good to about 430w under max load. I'm quite happy with my PSU
as well.

|> Ahh you want me to use MBM in conjuction with the motherboard sensor to
|> determine what the regulation/ripple is of the power supply??? I have my
|> doubts about your technical ability if you really believe this

Your welcome to doubt my ability, thats the benefit of a medium where I
can say something, and your not REQUIRED to believe me.

|
|> You don't do a SERIOUS test of a PSU with a motherboard sensor. You use a
|> voltmeter. Even better would be an Oscilloscope. I COULD do a
voltmeter test
|> if I feel like spending the time to set it up and write down the results

I didnt equate it with a 'serious' test, just a fairly simple test that
anyone (*without* a voltmeter or oscilliscope) could do, I wasnt aware
you were that technically competent. And yes I know you are going to get
fluctuations simply beause of trace resistance, and that they arent the
most accurate. But in areas when taxing the system loads a rail to high,
~ its surely sensitive enough to determine the drop out on other rails.

|> But just to humor you I did a run of 3DMark03 with the MBM log turned on.
|> The highest percentage I got for regulation (12/3.3/5vdc) was 1.6%.
I would
|> have liked to have done this over an extended period of time but
there is a
|> limit of 1000 entries in the MBM log. I set it for 6 seconds Formula
used
|> was Vhigh - Vlow / VAvg

I'm glad to hear it, I wasnt posting expecting you to come back saying
'OMG you were dead on" you'd said that you weren't having problems, so I
didnt expect you to come back with odd figures or anything, I was just
letting you know that although wattage/load may *NOT* be major factors
to you, ripple *should* be something your concerned with.

Philip
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Ok, so your saying for $24 bucks, that your happy with your 600 W PSU,
provided you dont pull more than 450-500W from it (thats called
OVERRATING the PSU) I never said you couldnt be happy, I just asked that
you stop saying that people should buy Generic.
Click to expand...
Sorry, but I would also say buy generic. But I would also say always buy
bigger than what you think you need, generic or not. I'm not sure, but
genereics may or may not have a bigger failure rate, but it isn't twice as
high, and nowhere near the 3-6 times more you will pay for name brand.

I'm happy with all my cheapass PSU's Ive bought over the last 5 years for
personal use. They are ALL still running, except one that burned up in a
fire (not started by computer:-)). Over the last 10 years I've probably
built more than 100 systems and generic PSU's was the least of my
problems. So yes, I say buy generic too.
 
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Wes Newell wrote:

|
| Sorry, but I would also say buy generic. But I would also say always buy
| bigger than what you think you need, generic or not. I'm not sure, but
| genereics may or may not have a bigger failure rate, but it isn't twice as
| high, and nowhere near the 3-6 times more you will pay for name brand.


Well, at least this one contains some good advice 'But I would also say
always buy bigger than what you think you need, generic or not'

I dont know where the 'twice as high' MTBF comes into play, I never made
that claim. And as for the 3-6 times figure, yes, you *could*
theoretically pay 6 times more for a Brand PSU vs a Generic.

Like that $24 600w vs a *REAL* 550w like this:

|
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-103-918&catalog=58&manufactory=BROWSE&depa=1

for woo, $100 US, so 4x the cost of a cheap PSU, maybe twice the cost of
a middle-line.

Philip
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KJ wrote:

| i suppose you missed this one:
|
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-438&depa=1
|
| only $250!
| 660W
|

No I didn't. But comparing Price differences between a BRAND PSU, that
actually delivers the advertised wattage, and can do so for extended
periods, without ripple, is unfair.

That 24$ 600w would be sold by most Brand companies as a 400w or 380w at
most. It cant realistically provide 600w, even the person using it said
as much, that they fell 'safe' about it provided he doesnt pull more
than the 450-500w he currently consumes.

Please stop comparing the price of a 1965 Corvair to a 2004 BMW, they
arent the same magnitude of quality.
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Hi Leadfoot,
I wish you luck but a $25 600W PS is like putting a junk yard engine in an
Indy 500 car <s>. The power supply is the heart of a good system. One
should *never* compromise on the PS.
 
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Philip Callan wrote:

| KJ wrote:
|
| | i suppose you missed this one:
| |
|
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-438&depa=1
| |
| | only $250!
| | 660W
| |
|
| No I didn't. But comparing Price differences between a BRAND PSU, that
| actually delivers the advertised wattage, and can do so for extended
| periods, without ripple, is unfair.
|

I should qualify this, 'without *ATX specification acceptable or BETTER*
ripple'

| That 24$ 600w would be sold by most Brand companies as a 400w or 380w at
| most. It cant realistically provide 600w, even the person using it said
| as much, that they fell 'safe' about it provided he doesnt pull more
| than the 450-500w he currently consumes.
|
| Please stop comparing the price of a 1965 Corvair to a 2004 BMW, they
| arent the same magnitude of quality.
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relax. i was only pointing out that this PSU is 2.5x the price of the other
one you quoted, and is not that much more powerful in comparison to price.

notice they even made the exterior some gold plate to make you think you're
getting your moneys worth!
 
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