one last dead system question

[George Macdonald]

So much pain in you-know-where to salvage an obsolete board that
wasn't a good value even when new (ecs aka pcchips - bad caps are the
proof). These days, a board like this (not the same model, but the
same socket) - new, warranty and all, can be had from Newegg for under
$47 shipped, from ebay even cheaper but no warranty. OTOH, you have
to pay for capacitors, soldering iron and solder(unless you already
have it), wick or vacuum de-solderer, spend at least an hour of your
time - probably even more. The chances for success are not more than
50% - I'm generous with the number. Isn't it easier to just replace
the board or upgrade the whole thing to A64?

Unless the same or similar board is easily available though, the
replacement could end up including a CPU, memory and a PSU... and maybe
even a case if the mbrd is old. Then if M$ gets nasty you've got a
"purchase" of a new WinXP key. At some point it gets to tossing a whole
system.

Assuming *some* soldering skill, the chance of success, from what I see, is
entirely dependent on the local heat capacitance around the capacitors -
some people have managed with a 30W iron - others have reported having to
use a 60W. Being capacitors the chances are that at least one leg is
connected to a largish plane.

 

[jack]

<snip>

:: So much pain in you-know-where to salvage an obsolete board
:: that wasn't a good value even when new (ecs aka pcchips - bad
:: caps are the proof). These days, a board like this (not the
:: same model, but the same socket) - new, warranty and all, can
:: be had from Newegg for under $47 shipped, from ebay even
:: cheaper but no warranty. OTOH, you have to pay for
:: capacitors, soldering iron and solder(unless you already have
:: it), wick or vacuum de-solderer, spend at least an hour of
:: your time - probably even more. The chances for success are
:: not more than 50% - I'm generous with the number. Isn't it
:: easier to just replace the board or upgrade the whole thing
:: to A64?
:
: I would say it is not about cost-efficiency. It is about
: having the
: power to repair a thing and demonstrating it.

Then you have WAY too much free time on your hands, jackoff.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

I haven't looked in a while. In a VCR I opened up a few years ago, the
tuner, FM modulator, control panel and drum drive circuit were modules
IIRC.

These are generally serviced to component level. Possible exceptions
may be the tuner, and some smt daughter cards.

See Chapter 1 of the Wagner catalogue for a list of audio/video semis.
Otherwise consult any VCR service manual for a complete orderable
parts list.

Just my situation. I had the misfortune, a few years ago, to get a Sony
SLV-998HF -- not the highest "end" but it has flying head editing and was
fairly expensive -- when my really old Hitachi "high-end" came back froma
visit to the "shop" with a new problem. The Sony's FM modulator went bad
in the first few months, which didn't bother me too much since I didn't use
it. Now the tuner has gone bad and I'm more tempted to take my rage outon
it than fix it.

Have a look at the video belt kits on pages 4-21 and 4-22 of the
catalogue. Notice that some Sony models use the same kits as certain
Sanyo and Palsonic (low end) decks.

Let me ask you: is it possible that a (Motorola) STB might blow the tuner
on a VCR/TV?

I have no significant experience in STBs, but I suspect that it *may*
be possible to damage a tuner when hot connecting the cables. This is
because the chassis of an un-earthed 2-pin appliance generally floats
at half mains potential. I often see or feel a spark when
interconnecting such equipment.

The Sony VCR's tuner went gaga a few weeks after we got a new
cable co. STB when they switched over to digital - I'm kinda suspicious on
this.

I suggest you ask these questions at sci.electronics.repair. That's
where the component level techs appear to hang out.

- Franc Zabkar

 

[George Macdonald]

On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 06:20:31 -0500, George Macdonald
<fammacd=!SPAM^[email protected]> put finger to keyboard and
composed:

Have a look at the video belt kits on pages 4-21 and 4-22 of the
catalogue. Notice that some Sony models use the same kits as certain
Sanyo and Palsonic (low end) decks.

Because they all used the same cheap Funai mechanism? Yes, I know that
Sony just took a cheap deck and tarted it up with "features", apparently
using cheap add-on modules, but most of the mfrs did.

I have no significant experience in STBs, but I suspect that it *may*
be possible to damage a tuner when hot connecting the cables. This is
because the chassis of an un-earthed 2-pin appliance generally floats
at half mains potential. I often see or feel a spark when
interconnecting such equipment.

Not the kind of thing I'd do. I stil don't trust the network
switches/cards which claim that hot plug is "OK".

 

[Trent]

<snip>

:: So much pain in you-know-where to salvage an obsolete board
:: that wasn't a good value even when new (ecs aka pcchips - bad
:: caps are the proof). These days, a board like this (not the
:: same model, but the same socket) - new, warranty and all, can
:: be had from Newegg for under $47 shipped, from ebay even
:: cheaper but no warranty. OTOH, you have to pay for
:: capacitors, soldering iron and solder(unless you already have
:: it), wick or vacuum de-solderer, spend at least an hour of
:: your time - probably even more. The chances for success are
:: not more than 50% - I'm generous with the number. Isn't it
:: easier to just replace the board or upgrade the whole thing
:: to A64?
:
: I would say it is not about cost-efficiency. It is about
: having the
: power to repair a thing and demonstrating it.

Then you have WAY too much free time on your hands, jackoff.

One wonders HOW he finds the time, after spending so much of it making a
complete fool of himself in every thread he posts to.