Need help with ethernet switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mint
  • Start date Start date
M

Mint

Someone gave me a ethernet switch. 10/100 Fast Ethernet Switch

The instructions say to plug in the cables and that is it.

I am wanting to use my DSL modem connection in one run to be used on
another computer
in another room.

Can someone help me figure out what else I will need.

I know I will need an Ethernet cable to go from the switch into the
other computer.

I don't mind if I have to switch cables in order to have the internet
in the other room.

Thanks,
Andy
 
Mint said:
Someone gave me a ethernet switch. 10/100 Fast Ethernet Switch

The instructions say to plug in the cables and that is it.

I am wanting to use my DSL modem connection in one run to be used on
another computer
in another room.

Can someone help me figure out what else I will need.

I know I will need an Ethernet cable to go from the switch into the
other computer.

I don't mind if I have to switch cables in order to have the internet
in the other room.

Thanks,
Andy

Please state the make and model number of ADSL modem. It's
important, to understanding whether this is going to work.

*******

If the ADSL modem incorporates a "one port router" in its
product description, this is bound to work with no fuss.
It might still require a visit to the web interface, to
check the DHCP settings (such as the number of addresses
it is set to hand out).

The first DSL modem I had (provided by the ISP), had no router
inside. It outputs PPPOE or PPPOA on its one Ethernet port.
I had to use software termination, on my first computer, to
convert PPPOE to ordinary LAN packets. I wouldn't expect
that to work with the switch as drawn below.

In terms of cabling, there are two Ethernet cable types. I'd
expect "straight thru" cabling to work in your project.

The alternate cable type is "crossover", and on the one
crossover cable I have here, one connector is blue and
the other connector is red. The color difference, tells you
it's a crossover cable. The straight thru cables would
have same-colored connectors on each end.

*******

If all the pre-requisites are met, you just hook it up.

Switch (Ports)
1 2 3 4 5
| | | (All cables straight-thru type)
| | |
DSL | | (Any cable type is OK with MDI/MDIX
Modem | | support on a newer switch.)
Comp Comp
#1 #2

You use the "ipconfig" command in a command prompt (MSDOS)
window, to determine how you're doing. If you're still
getting addresses in the same subnet, maybe it's working
OK. But first, before even cabling up the switch,
I'd still want to review the feature set of the ADSL
modem.

If it's not working, please report the IP address shown
in ipconfig, from before you started this experiment,
plus the value shown when the thing is cabled up as
in the diagram. 192.168.x.x is a private address
(the value used, might be shown in the DHCP section
of the web configuration page of the modem/router).
169.254.x.x is an APIPA address (equals "big fail").
APIPA is used when the computer can't get an address.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Private_network (private address range)

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa505918.aspx (APIPA)

Best guess,
Paul
 
Please state the make and model number of ADSL modem. It's
important, to understanding whether this is going to work.

*******

If the ADSL modem incorporates a "one port router" in its
product description, this is bound to work with no fuss.
It might still require a visit to the web interface, to
check the DHCP settings (such as the number of addresses
it is set to hand out).

The first DSL modem I had (provided by the ISP), had no router
inside. It outputs PPPOE or PPPOA on its one Ethernet port.
I had to use software termination, on my first computer, to
convert PPPOE to ordinary LAN packets. I wouldn't expect
that to work with the switch as drawn below.

In terms of cabling, there are two Ethernet cable types. I'd
expect "straight thru" cabling to work in your project.

The alternate cable type is "crossover", and on the one
crossover cable I have here, one connector is blue and
the other connector is red. The color difference, tells you
it's a crossover cable. The straight thru cables would
have same-colored connectors on each end.

*******

If all the pre-requisites are met, you just hook it up.

    Switch (Ports)
    1  2  3  4  5
       |     |  |      (All cables straight-thru type)
       |     |  |
      DSL    |  |      (Any cable type is OK with MDI/MDIX
      Modem  |  |       support on a newer switch.)
           Comp Comp
            #1   #2

You use the "ipconfig" command in a command prompt (MSDOS)
window, to determine how you're doing. If you're still
getting addresses in the same subnet, maybe it's working
OK. But first, before even cabling up the switch,
I'd still want to review the feature set of the ADSL
modem.

If it's not working, please report the IP address shown
in ipconfig, from before you started this experiment,
plus the value shown when the thing is cabled up as
in the diagram. 192.168.x.x is a private address
(the value used, might be shown in the DHCP section
of the web configuration page of the modem/router).
169.254.x.x is an APIPA address (equals "big fail").
APIPA is used when the computer can't get an address.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Private_network            (private address range)

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa505918.aspx   (APIPA)

Best guess,
    Paul

Thanks Paul.

It is a Dynex Model # DX-ESW8
10/100 Fast Ethernet Switch

Andy
 
Please state the make and model number of ADSL modem. It's
important, to understanding whether this is going to work.

*******

If the ADSL modem incorporates a "one port router" in its
product description, this is bound to work with no fuss.
It might still require a visit to the web interface, to
check the DHCP settings (such as the number of addresses
it is set to hand out).

The first DSL modem I had (provided by the ISP), had no router
inside. It outputs PPPOE or PPPOA on its one Ethernet port.
I had to use software termination, on my first computer, to
convert PPPOE to ordinary LAN packets. I wouldn't expect
that to work with the switch as drawn below.

In terms of cabling, there are two Ethernet cable types. I'd
expect "straight thru" cabling to work in your project.

The alternate cable type is "crossover", and on the one
crossover cable I have here, one connector is blue and
the other connector is red. The color difference, tells you
it's a crossover cable. The straight thru cables would
have same-colored connectors on each end.

*******

If all the pre-requisites are met, you just hook it up.

    Switch (Ports)
    1  2  3  4  5
       |     |  |      (All cables straight-thru type)
       |     |  |
      DSL    |  |      (Any cable type is OK with MDI/MDIX
      Modem  |  |       support on a newer switch.)
           Comp Comp
            #1   #2

You use the "ipconfig" command in a command prompt (MSDOS)
window, to determine how you're doing. If you're still
getting addresses in the same subnet, maybe it's working
OK. But first, before even cabling up the switch,
I'd still want to review the feature set of the ADSL
modem.

If it's not working, please report the IP address shown
in ipconfig, from before you started this experiment,
plus the value shown when the thing is cabled up as
in the diagram. 192.168.x.x is a private address
(the value used, might be shown in the DHCP section
of the web configuration page of the modem/router).
169.254.x.x is an APIPA address (equals "big fail").
APIPA is used when the computer can't get an address.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Private_network            (private address range)

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa505918.aspx   (APIPA)

Best guess,
    Paul

It says Single Port Ethernet.

Does sound like it will work?

Andy
 
Someone gave me a ethernet switch. 10/100 Fast Ethernet Switch

The instructions say to plug in the cables and that is it.

I am wanting to use my DSL modem connection in one run to be used on
another computer
in another room.

Can someone help me figure out what else I will need.

I know I will need an Ethernet cable to go from the switch into the
other computer.

I don't mind if I have to switch cables in order to have the internet
in the other room.

There's only one issue to be aware of: The basic nature of ethernet
requires a half twist in the circuit. Ethernet cables normally
contain this half twist. (The twist is in an electric sense: The
transmitter of one device is connected to the receiver of the other
and vice versa.)

By adding a switch into a circuit where there was none you now have an
extra cable and thus an extra half twist. Most modern switches deal
with this on their own and work anyway, a good number of older ones
had one port wired the other way around and separated from the rest
specifically to address this situation.

If neither of these cases apply you will need to replace the cable
from the modem to the switch with a crossover cable. It looks just
the same but the wires inside are hooked up differently, it doesn't
contain the normal half twist. They might be a bit hard to find these
days.
 
Mint said:
It says Single Port Ethernet.

Does sound like it will work?

Andy

Is that the ADSL modem ?

I wanted some info on the modem, to understand whether it's
a good combination with the switch.

Paul
 
Is that the ADSL modem ?

I wanted some info on the modem, to understand whether it's
a good combination with the switch.

    Paul

Yes, it is an ADSL modem.

Andy
 
There's only one issue to be aware of:  The basic nature of ethernet
requires a half twist in the circuit.  Ethernet cables normally
contain this half twist.  (The twist is in an electric sense: The
transmitter of one device is connected to the receiver of the other
and vice versa.)

By adding a switch into a circuit where there was none you now have an
extra cable and thus an extra half twist.  Most modern switches deal
with this on their own and work anyway, a good number of older ones
had one port wired the other way around and separated from the rest
specifically to address this situation.

If neither of these cases apply you will need to replace the cable
from the modem to the switch with a crossover cable.  It looks just
the same but the wires inside are hooked up differently, it doesn't
contain the normal half twist.  They might be a bit hard to find these
days.

I thought fixing laboratory instruments was complicated.

Andy
 
Mint said:
Motorola 2210-02l

I think that product is similar to the modem/router I bought,
in the sense that the product is marketed to your ISP, and
not to end users. It has a two level password,
which means if an ISP rents you that modem, the ISP
can lock you out of part of the configuration screens.
My modem is worse, in that it has several levels of passwords.
But in my case, I bought mine retail, so it's unlocked and
not a problem. If you rent from the ISP, they have the option
of locking it.

(Note - this says 10NA on the end of the part number, so the
firmware won't be identical to yours.)

http://www.motorola.com/staticfiles...atewayy/Documents/Static-Files/2210-02-DS.pdf

Your modem supports both bridged and routed protocols. I
run mine bridged, because I connect my favorite router to it.
So my setup looks like this.


PPPOE LAN
ADSL ------------- Wired -------- (Computers think
Modem 4 port -------- they're on a LAN.
(bridged, router -------- 192.168.1.2 etc.)
no router --------
function)

You'd want to run your modem router in "routed" mode. Your box
can then run its own DHCP server, and serve up IP addresses. Maybe
your box is automatically configured to deliver DHCP as
192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.253, with no further input from
you. If so, you should be able to connect it up like this.
Each connected computer, should automatically get a random
IP address from the modem/router.

Switch (Ports)
1 2 3 4 5
| | | (All cables straight-thru type)
| | |
DSL | | (Any cable type is OK with MDI/MDIX
Modem | | support on a newer switch.)
Comp Comp
#1 #2

The spec for your modem says "Auto-MDIX" on its single
Ethernet connector, which means the cable leading from
the modem to the switch, the type of that cable doesn't
matter. Your modem can work it out.

So I don't see a problem here, unless your modem was locked
in "bridged" mode (speaking only PPPOE), and I doubt the ISP
would do that. I put mine in bridged mode on purpose, because
the built-in router in my ADSL modem sucks. I decided I liked
the routing functions of my old $39.95 wired router. If I wanted
to use your switch, I'd be using it after my 4 port router (to
make more ports).

The router in my modem, is too "chatty". If I'm sitting quietly
in front of my computer and not doing anything involving the
network, my ADSL modem/router was having a grand time for itself,
sending packets to the computers on the LAN. And using protocols
I had no interest in. To turn off those protocols, I would
need to enter a command line interface, and cook up a set of
commands to it. It was easier to just turn that part off. The
little four port router I use, is quiet and well behaved.

Paul
 
Did you switch off your modem before connecting it to the switch? ISP
modems can be tied to a particular MAC address and will only allow that
MAC address to send/receive data from the ISP. Every network device,
including your computer and your switch have unique MAC addresses, so
you may need to reset the modem to look for a new MAC address. This is
normally achieved by turning off the modem, connecting up the switch to
the modem, turning on the switch, then turning on the modem last.

There are other factors to take into consideration, however. Such as
whether the modem and switch are compatible. We would need to know more
about the switch to determine that.

Also you would also need to be sure the computer is connected to the
switch ok. You have plenty of advice on this area from others.
 
I think that product is similar to the modem/router I bought,
in the sense that the product is marketed to your ISP, and
not to end users. It has a two level password,
which means if an ISP rents you that modem, the ISP
can lock you out of part of the configuration screens.
My modem is worse, in that it has several levels of passwords.
But in my case, I bought mine retail, so it's unlocked and
not a problem. If you rent from the ISP, they have the option
of locking it.

(Note - this says 10NA on the end of the part number, so the
firmware won't be identical to yours.)

http://www.motorola.com/staticfiles/Support/US-EN/Home-and-Office/DSL...

Your modem supports both bridged and routed protocols. I
run mine bridged, because I connect my favorite router to it.
So my setup looks like this.

              PPPOE              LAN
    ADSL  ------------- Wired  -------- (Computers think
    Modem               4 port --------  they're on aLAN.
    (bridged,           router --------  192.168.1.2 etc.)
    no router                  --------
    function)

You'd want to run your modem router in "routed" mode. Your box
can then run its own DHCP server, and serve up IP addresses. Maybe
your box is automatically configured to deliver DHCP as
192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.253, with no further input from
you. If so, you should be able to connect it up like this.
Each connected computer, should automatically get a random
IP address from the modem/router.

     Switch (Ports)
     1  2  3  4  5
        |     |  |      (All cables straight-thru type)
        |     |  |
       DSL    |  |      (Any cable type is OK with MDI/MDIX
       Modem  |  |       support on a newer switch.)
            Comp Comp
             #1   #2

The spec for your modem says "Auto-MDIX" on its single
Ethernet connector, which means the cable leading from
the modem to the switch, the type of that cable doesn't
matter. Your modem can work it out.

So I don't see a problem here, unless your modem was locked
in "bridged" mode (speaking only PPPOE), and I doubt the ISP
would do that. I put mine in bridged mode on purpose, because
the built-in router in my ADSL modem sucks. I decided I liked
the routing functions of my old $39.95 wired router. If I wanted
to use your switch, I'd be using it after my 4 port router (to
make more ports).

The router in my modem, is too "chatty". If I'm sitting quietly
in front of my computer and not doing anything involving the
network, my ADSL modem/router was having a grand time for itself,
sending packets to the computers on the LAN. And using protocols
I had no interest in. To turn off those protocols, I would
need to enter a command line interface, and cook up a set of
commands to it. It was easier to just turn that part off. The
little four port router I use, is quiet and well behaved.

    Paul

I bought my modem from AT&T.

So, it looks like you think it might work.

Andy
 
Did you switch off your modem before connecting it to the switch? ISP
modems can be tied to a particular MAC address and will only allow that
MAC address to send/receive data from the ISP.  Every network device,
including your computer and your switch have unique MAC addresses, so
you may need to reset the modem to look for a new MAC address. This is
normally achieved by turning off the modem, connecting up the switch to
the modem, turning on the switch, then turning on the modem last.

There are other factors to take into consideration, however. Such as
whether the modem and switch are compatible. We would need to know more
about the switch to determine that.

Also you would also need to be sure the computer is connected to the
switch ok. You have plenty of advice on this area from others.


I didn't see a "line in" port in my switch, so I will investigate
further as to if I need something else
before I go and buy the cabling.

I am ready to get this "puppy" running. :-)

Andy
 
There's only one issue to be aware of: The basic nature of ethernet
requires a half twist in the circuit. Ethernet cables normally
contain this half twist. (The twist is in an electric sense: The
transmitter of one device is connected to the receiver of the other
and vice versa.)

By adding a switch into a circuit where there was none you now have an
extra cable and thus an extra half twist. Most modern switches deal
with this on their own and work anyway, a good number of older ones
had one port wired the other way around and separated from the rest
specifically to address this situation.

If neither of these cases apply you will need to replace the cable
from the modem to the switch with a crossover cable. It looks just
the same but the wires inside are hooked up differently, it doesn't
contain the normal half twist. They might be a bit hard to find these
days.

I make my own ethernet cables. You can get everything you need at any
big box store.
The cables are wired by 2 standards: 568-A and 568-B. 568-B is the most
common, by far.

In 568-B wiring the 8 wires of an ethernet cable are positioned,
orientated in the RG-45 connector with the pins facing up, like so:
Orange Stripe - Orange - Green Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Green -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

In 568-A wiring the orange and green wires are switched and the wires
are positioned like so:
Green Stripe - Green - Orange Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Orange -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

A straight through cable the connectors are wired the same on both ends.
568-B - 568-B , or , 568-A - 568A. Either will work.

In a crossover cable, one end is wired 568-A and the other end is wired
568-B.
 
I make my own ethernet cables. You can get everything you need at any
big box store.
The cables are wired by 2 standards: 568-A and 568-B. 568-B is the most
common, by far.

In 568-B wiring the 8 wires of an ethernet cable are positioned,
orientated in the RG-45 connector with the pins facing up, like so:
Orange Stripe - Orange - Green Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Green -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

In 568-A wiring the orange and green wires are switched and the wires
are positioned like so:
Green Stripe - Green - Orange Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Orange -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

A straight through cable the connectors are wired the same on both ends.
568-B - 568-B , or , 568-A - 568A. Either will work.

In a crossover cable, one end is wired 568-A and the other end is wired
568-B.

Thanks, I saved your info.

I had an interview on Friday which I thought went well.

Andy
 
I make my own ethernet cables. You can get everything you need at any
big box store.
The cables are wired by 2 standards: 568-A and 568-B. 568-B is the most
common, by far.

In 568-B wiring the 8 wires of an ethernet cable are positioned,
orientated in the RG-45 connector with the pins facing up, like so:
Orange Stripe - Orange - Green Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Green -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

In 568-A wiring the orange and green wires are switched and the wires
are positioned like so:
Green Stripe - Green - Orange Stripe - Blue - Blue Stripe - Orange -
Brown Stripe - Brown.

A straight through cable the connectors are wired the same on both ends.
568-B - 568-B , or , 568-A - 568A. Either will work.

In a crossover cable, one end is wired 568-A and the other end is wired
568-B.

I've never paid attention to the physical cables because I've got some
red-green issues and know better than to mess with small color-coded
items. Green stripe vs brown stripe is not something I could always
reliably tell apart.
 
In message
<[email protected]> Mint
I didn't see a "line in" port in my switch, so I will investigate
further as to if I need something else
before I go and buy the cabling.

Switches don't have a "line in", all ports are typically equivalent, at
least on typical consumer gear.
 
In message
<[email protected]> Mint


Switches don't have a "line in", all ports are typically equivalent, at
least on typical consumer gear.

In the old days before they could autosense whether a connection was
crossed or not they generally did have a line in.
 
Loren Pechtel said:
In the old days before they could autosense whether a connection was
crossed or not they generally did have a line in.

Does this meas that a port can be gained provided that a cross cable is used
to connect another computer ?

Regards
 
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