Laser vs. Ink

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rich, N9DKO
  • Start date Start date
Well, at full list prices, inkjets are under 24 cents per 4x6 prints,
and you can cut that way down in a number of ways:

-buy consumables on sale
-refill ink cartridges
-OfficeMax and Staples give you $3 back when you return an empty inkjet
cartridge. In some cases this can cut the cost of printing in half (an
HP "photo value pack" for the 02 series printers costs $36 to $42 and
has 6 cartridges in it).

There is no way that the operating cost of a dye sublimation printer is
less than that of an inkjet printer with smart buying of the
consumables. And it's actual cost may be 50% to 100% more.

I agree with you about refills or 3rd party ink carts and papers.But
the photos won't last....Max 1 year!
If you use the original inks and papers you will not get prints under
30 cents,unless you print all your photos at once.If you print 5 photos
today,5 after 3 days....etc you won't get for sure photos under
30cents.An other factor that doesn't permit you to print photos less
than 30 cents is the ink coverage.If you print dark photos,you get
less prints than printing light photos.

Dye-sub prints have a standard price , higher quality and
sharpness.Ihave a picturemate and a cp510 and can tell you for sure
that there are more details on selphy's photos rather than epson's.
 
HP and Epson both have test data for EXTREMELY long durability of photo
prints .... decades.

And you are all wet about "If you use the original inks and papers you
will not get prints under 30 cents". HP's photo value packs have cost
per print of 24 cents AT LIST PRICE, and you can buy them below list
price ... that is genuine OEM, and not using any refilling. [Photo value
pack for printer using HP 95/97 cartridges, 200 sheets of paper, two
cartridges, $47.99 list price]
 
HP's photo value packs have cost per print of 24 cents

" HP's photo value packs have cost per print of 24 cents,Photo value
pack for printer using HP 95/97 cartridges, 200 sheets of paper, two
cartridges, $47.99 list price"

I am sure that your printer will run out of ink before paper finish.I
have a picturemate and in every kit i buy there are 100 sheets.I could
never get more than 60-70 prints from a single cartridge because of the
ink coverage.With dye sub printers every print (snow valley or darkest
night) costs exactly the same ;-)
Look in Hp's site,in cartridge/consumable section.You'll find out how
many prints can get from EACH color of the cartridge based on a
predefined print pattern.This is the reason i got the selhpy.
 
It won't; the ink and paper are, on average, very well matched. My wife
is heavily into scrapbooking and prints a couple thousand prints per
year on here HP snapshot printer (Photosmart 375). 24 cents per print
at list price, and they can be bought for well under list price.
 
It won't; the ink and paper are, on average, very well matched. My
wife is heavily into scrapbooking and prints a couple thousand prints
per year on here HP snapshot printer (Photosmart 375). 24 cents per
print at list price, and they can be bought for well under list price.


If is so,it's ok.unfortunately the quality of the 375 much lower than
the picturemates or selphys.
But for the average user is "ok"
The only problem i have with the PM is that i get really few photos
with the cartridge included.
Quality 9/10 and durability 10/10 :-)
See wilhelm's site ;-)
 
No argument that the 375 isn't the ultimate photo printer (it's only a
3-color system, for one thing), but the prints are surprisingly good.
However, HP offers "photo value packs" with per-print costs of 24 to 28
cents AT LIST PRICE for just about every printer they make that is
capable of printing photos.
 
Arthur said:
I find in general the Kodak kiosk machines (not the dye sub ones, the
one hour variety) are pretty well designed, allowing for cropping, clean
up adjustment red-eye fixes, etc, and they print on a good quality
"archival" photo (silver halide wet process) print paper.

Arthur; I don't think that anything has changed in photo printing since
it was all analog. There's no silver when it's over. Permanence is
pretty iffy.

All of our classic color print systems begin with silver halide
crystals. In color, these are part of dye couplers. The remainder of the
dyes are provided by the chemistry. All of the silver is extracted from
the paper into the developer solution, to be captured and sold. The
color image is made completely of dyes, and is subject to fading. During
the 1970s, color chemistry was changed to improve the impact of photo
processing upon the environment. The resulting negatives and prints have
been much more prone toward fading than the old materials were.

Most modern silver-based black-and-white film and paper is designed to
be processed in color chemistry. Thus, most modern black-and-white film
and prints are subject to fading because they're exclusively dye when
the process has finished. This was a godsend to the mass-market
photofinishing industry because b/w negs and pics were simply run
through the equipment the same as color materials. Genuine silver-based
materials are used by some photographers, and their b/w negatives and
prints are, indeed, archival. The reason for this permanence is that
this is the only example in our time in which the image is frozen in
pure silver.

No color process has ever retained any silver in the final image, with
the exception of the Technicolor archival motion picture process, which
stores the color picture as three separate b/w color films, to be
re-combined later for release prints. Go watch a classic Walt Disney
cartoon to see its benefit.

Certain color processes are superior. The classic Kodachrome reversal
process is marvelous because it consists of three separate silver layers
that don't use dye couplers. It's an old, unique color process that's
very different from the others. Highly specialized processing is
employed, and there were never very many labs that could do it. The
process allows different dyes with emphasis on color and durability
instead of chemical compatibility back to the dye couplers.

Of course, there have been other color processes that have offered
outstanding properties -- these have been expensive and limited to
professionals. I attended a music conservatory that was founded by one
of the inventors of the Kodachrome process. Its inventors were the
teen-aged sons of two New York music families, and The Mannes College of
Music was underwritten by a certain amount of Kodak money. Ironically,
despite the great importance of the Kodachrome invention in this family,
the portrait of musical patriarch Leopold Mannes that hung in the lobby
was a dye transfer print!

Most of my photographic knowledge came from the 70s and earlier, so
there have been newer developments, but I'm sure that the basic
processes are all the same. Ironically, it may be that Epson Dura-Bright
inks have better lasting power than chemistry-based prints from Costco,
which are still constructed of dyes. Pigments may out-do them. How about
that?
 
Hi Richard,

Thanks for the history of photography chemistry lesson. I'm smirking
right now, because if you were to check the archives on this and other
groups you would find I have provided this exact (and I mean almost word
for word) information to others many times over the years.

Just to give you a bit of my background, I've run both custom and
commercial photographic labs. I've worked with Kodachrome film since
about 1970. I still have some of the chemical manuals somewhere around
here. I am fully aware of everything you wrote, and it is quite accurate
(which is nice for a change) and I'm sure it is a valuable public lesson
for many who aren't familiar with those "archaic" ;-) processes. I also
used to produce hand processed Ciba/Ilfochrome prints, which use quite
stable aniline dyes which work in a reversal process where the dyes are
bleached out of the emulsion with rather powerful oxidizing agents.

I do believe my description was accurate. The color process is a silver
halide crystal wet process. Yes, I am fully aware that organic dyes are
imbedded in the emulsion and converted to dye clouds around those silver
grains and that the silver is dissolved out of the paper (I wish it was
all recycled, but the truth is the spillage caused a fair amount of
toxic water pollution). Recent tests in Scandinavia have should since
the advent and evolving acceptance of digital photography and the use of
ink based printing, the amount of silver salts in the water supply has
diminished considerably, pretty much proving that the older systems were
dumping a goodly amount of silver into the waste water supply.

Although I am "glad" that the majority of my film based image collection
is on Kodachrome film, the environmental impact of the process was
considerable, and Kodak was fined on numerous occasions for the sludge
pool created, in part from discarding "spend" dye baths. Kodak was
probably glad to rid themselves of the Kodachrome film due to it's
massively complex and space hungry process and the toxic materials
involved. The other problem I encountered with Kodachrome is that as
time went on, it seems even Kodak lost their will to process it
correctly. I was shipping literally to several counties and continents
seeking out the best lab once the private ones all shut down, and
although I'm not at liberty to discuss it in any detail, financial
settlements were involved after a particularly bad run of processing.
The other issue with Kodachrome was because, as you stated it was a 3
layer black and white film, the layers for each color were at different
sensitivities, and aged at different rates. "Unripe" film shifted
horribly cyan-green, outdated film pushed magenta red.

The one area we'll probably disagree on is that some pretty significant
strides have been made in the color photo dye department. Both Fuji and
Kodak have developed processes that have vast improvement over earlier C
style prints. Although they may not quite have the permanence of some
pigment inks, (I'm going on Henry Wilhelm's numbers) the current crop of
wet photographic prints (Fuji Crystal Archive) are quite stable dyes, or
about 26 years without any protection (bare bulb) about 40 under regular
glass, 50 years under UV, and over 100 dark keeping. Kodak's are not as
good, at about 18 years regardless of how they were displayed. Still,
for most people that is adequate for a $.19 or less print. Not equal to
pigment ink prints, but reasonable for most.

By the way, Wilhelm refers to these prints as "silver halide color print".


Art
 
ggreekx said:
The only problem i have with the PM is that i get really few photos with
the cartridge included.

What's a "PM?"
Did anyone say anything about a "PM?"
I feel like I've just walked into that joke where people all knew jokes
by number, so they dispensed with the jokes and just laughed at the numbers.
 
Arthur said:
The one area we'll probably disagree on is that some pretty significant
strides have been made in the color photo dye department. Both Fuji and
Kodak have developed processes that have vast improvement over earlier C
style prints. Although they may not quite have the permanence of some
pigment inks, (I'm going on Henry Wilhelm's numbers) the current crop of
wet photographic prints (Fuji Crystal Archive) are quite stable dyes, or
about 26 years without any protection (bare bulb) about 40 under regular
glass, 50 years under UV, and over 100 dark keeping. Kodak's are not as
good, at about 18 years regardless of how they were displayed. Still,
for most people that is adequate for a $.19 or less print. Not equal to
pigment ink prints, but reasonable for most.

By the way, Wilhelm refers to these prints as "silver halide color print".

Naw, Arthur.
We're not disagreeing, and I really appreciate your input from the
chemistry side, especially about pollution and grime from that
perspective. As I said,

If I've digested what you wrote, we'll get better permanence from cloggy
Epson Dura-Bright ink than from Wilhelm's "silver halide" prints at
those Costco self-service machines. Is this correct?

The question that follows is, will we be able to get similar stability
if we use third-party ink and reload our Epson printers designed for
Dura-Bright ink? In looking over some ink makers' web pages, I noticed
that the manufacturer located on Long Island (forgot the name) charges
quite a bit more money for their formulation of this type than they do
for their "regular" inks.

Richard
 
Hi Richard,

I tend to believe that the pigment inks will tend to be more stable than
most silver halide/color images, overall, especially in light keeping,
but we also have a better sense of the nature of photographic materials
and how they fade, etc, while pigment inks are still very much a
guessing process, because we don't really know what types of
environmental influences might ultimately do them in.

Real cost of a Durabrite ink print, I'm not sure about, especially
considering ink wastage and clogs. ;-)

Paper type, although probably less an issue with pigment inks than dye,
may still be an influencing matter.

Art
 
What's a "PM?"
Did anyone say anything about a "PM?"
I feel like I've just walked into that joke where people all knew jokes
by number, so they dispensed with the jokes and just laughed at the
numbers.

PM = picturemate
 
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