Inkjet printing both sides

[Terry Pinnell]

You don't mention what printer you are using. Some modern inkjet
printers are designed so that the ink and paper react chemically, and
you NEED to use the recommended papers in order to get the best results.
Using paper not designed to be printed on both sides can result in
poor results, as you have noted. I can only suggest that you print the
side that smears first, and give it some time (several minutes) to dry
before printing the other side. This may give acceptable results.

Sorry, Ron, I meant to do so; it's an Epson C82.

But when I said 'smeary wet mess', I was being precise! Ink was
actually 'puddled' in several cases, with original image barely
recognisable. That's as it emerged from printer, so no question of
allowing it to dry.

 

[Arthur Entlich]

It is the same problem if you are using an inkjet coated paper. It
isn't the ink that is the problem, it is the paper itself which is not
designed for heat.

In most cases the true matte surfaced inkjet paper (not semigloss or
pearl) does not melt when placed through a laser or photocopier, but
there are no guarantees. Most fully matte inkjet coatings are made of a
clay/ceramic which is not damaged by heat. In most cases, the inkjet
ink itself isn't the problem, so it may be better to print the ink side
first and then laser print, because the heat may somewhat disrupt the
inkjet coating in other ways than melting it.

There are some brands of glossy and semigloss inkjet papers which have a
special coating on the reverse side that is designed to accept black
inkjet for text only.

Also, if you print the card the right way and do a four way fold, if you
print the front and back in one direction, and the inside panels upside
down and fold it, you can print the whole card on one sheet on one side.
Using a full letter size (8.5" x 11" page, the card will end up folded
dimensions of 5.5" x 4.25" front surface with the two inside panels
being 5.5" x 8.5" total.

Art

 

[Arthur Entlich]

The coatings on the reverse side do have several potential functions.
As I mentioned, some are coated for text only, some at designed to
maintain dimensionally and prevent warping, as you mentioned, some have
a coating designed to allow better paper transport through the printer
with less slippage, some have codes to tell the printer the type of
paper so the proper driver profile is selected for that paper type, so
helps to maintain the integrity of the inks.

Art

 

[Arthur Entlich]

In a forum such as this, clarity and detail can count. Some errors made
due to incomplete information can cause irreversible damage to equipment.

I am not implying your intent was anything but honorable, but as you
yourself made note in the aftermath, some inkjet papers you recognized
are inappropriate for use in laser printers, and you would not use them,
but it is probably dangerous to make the assumption others would know
offhand which were safe and which were not.

As they say, "sometimes the devil is in the details".

I can attest, having done many tests and reviews on papers, both inkjet
and laser, that packaging can be misleading or remiss in details such as
warning people not to use an inkjet paper type in a laser printer. For
instance, something that just states "Works on all inkjet printers"
doesn't necessarily preclude "doesn't work with laser printers". Also,
many people do not have a clear understanding of the nature of the
technologies they work with, and that laser printers, as an example,
require high temperatures to work which inkjets do not.

Art

 

[Paul Furman]

Sorry, Ron, I meant to do so; it's an Epson C82.

You can also just try any card stock. The colors may not come out quite
right but it may be good enough. That printer doesn't absolutely need
special paper.

 

[Burt]

That was my guess, that the "papaer" (substrate) in impregnated with
plastic (like many photographic papers) and coated on one side with a
water-permeable coating. Hence the smeary mess on the back, which adsorbs
little of the ink.

I don't mind sacrificing some saturation in exchange for a truly flat look
and use card stock, which doesn't have a "side" since it is all paper.
I'm in the US and like Xerox vellum, but I'd think watercolor paper, which
is meant to hold color on the surface, would work well.

Brendan

I've used uncoated card stock in my laser printer for business cards
successfully, but photo images from dye-based inkjet printers (epson stylus
color 900, Canon i960) were less than satisfactory. Inkjet coated matte
papers are much better for photo printing than uncoated card stock when
using dye-based inkjet printers. I don't know what the quality of pigment
based inks might be, but I'd guess that they would be more vivid than dye
based photo images on plain, uncoated card stock.

 

[tomm42]

Somewhat OT for both groups (I'd appreciate a pointer to a more
appropriate one), but I imagine there's some expertise on this subject
here.

I want to make a birthday card by folding a sheet of the A4 'Super
quality photo paper for inkjet printers' that I have at hand, bought
from WH Smith. But I find that on the non-glossy side I get a smeary
wet mess with all the 'paper type' settings I've tried. Plain, Matte -
Heavy, Photo, Premium Semi Gloss - even Inkjet Transparency! If the
ink will stay on a transparent sheet of plastic with that last option,
I'm darned if I can see why it won't do so on this stuff? Is it
deliberately 'waxed' or something?

Several things to try:
1) Use the plain paper setting when printing on the back of a paper.
Trying to print on the back of RC paper just won't work do to what you
found out, no ink jet receptive coating, plain paper will work with
inkjet inks.
2) Inkpress makes a reasonably priced glossy paper that has a real
paper base, don't know if this is available where you live, I got mine
from www.inkjetart.com.
3) I have used fine art paper in the past for making cards and it
worked very well.
4) Use a double sided paper, many are available, Ilford I believe has
one.
5)You can print on the paper you have, then purchase a card stock
paper, print on the card stock for the inside text, then mount the
photo nicely on the front of the card.
6) Don't try all sorts work around just because you have this paper,
it is not suited for the job and you should try some other paper. All
the suggestions here don't sound like they will make a nice card.


Tom

 

[Arthur Entlich]

Inkjet printers use no heat or fusing process. The only heat that is
generated on thermal inkjet head printers, is to heat the ink to propel
it onto the paper, which doesn't heat the paper. The only issues with
paper choices for inkjet printers are:

Is the paper intact such that surfaces or glues, or other parts won't
flake off, or disintegrate during the printing or transport process?

Is the paper flexible enough to go through the paper transport if it has
to be curved or curled to get through?

Is the paper thin enough to clear through the paper transport? Is the
paper thick or rigid enough to get through the printer, and not get too
wet and soft, or bleed ink through the back?

Are the paper's edges straight and smooth enough to not get caught or
snagged on something along the way through the printer?


In terms of quality of the result:

Not all papers, even ones which claim "works with all inkjet printers"
will necessarily give the best quality print. Due to differences in ink
formulations (dye, hybrid, pigment, pigment and resin, etc), and the
technologies used in inkjet printers (Thermal versus piezo) papers react
differently. There is a reason why some inkjet brand papers do a better
job than generic papers, and it may take some experimentation to find
the right paper for your inks. Some papers will state the brands or
models or ink type that paper is recommended for, others, as stated,
will claim good for all but quality will vary with the printer you use.

Some papers will exaggerate banding, cause the ink to bead, not dry
correctly, may smear or the ink may transfer to the rollers in the
printer. Some papers will ripple, pucker, curl as they dry, cause
surface or gloss differential or bronzing between areas which have ink,
or certain color inks, and areas which do not. In general if you are
using OEM inks and use the OEM papers for that brand, they have been
tested or formulated to work together.

However, some at costly, and certain paper surfaces are not available
OEM so you may wish to experiment.

Papers with loose bonded fibers and which are uncoated and coarse
surfaces will tend to bleed considerably

Thin papers will tend to lack opacity which may make them not usable for
double sided printing. Lowering the amount of ink (by lowering
saturation and darkness or density adjustments in the driver) or by
using a profile for draft printing, or a profile for a plastic film may
use less ink than matte or plain paper settings.

Papers which have a true plastic coated or wax coated surface will
usually not take water-based inkjet inks, and they will bead up, smear,
or not dry at all or take a long time to do so.

Some inkjet specialized paper will has a seemingly plastic surface, but
it may actually be a swellable polymer (if you wet your finer and put it
on a corner of the paper and the paper sticks to your finger, it is
likely a swellable polymer type. Touching the paper with wet fingers
will ruin the area touched. It may also be a porous plastic which
allows the ink to go through the plastic surface and get locked into a
receptive ceramic or paper surface below it. Also, some papers are
coated with a very glossy ceramic surface which has very small pores in
it to allow the ink to enter a lower layer and get locked in and waterproof.

Some plastic films, some transparent, some translucent, and some opaque
white may have a special ink receptive coating on it. In general, films
of this nature which indicate they are for laser printers WILL not have
that coating and although they won't damage your inkjet printer, the ink
will not hold or dye on the surface. Such materials which are designated
for inkjet use should NOT be used in a laser printer, as the plastic
itself and the coating may both not be able to tolerate the heat the
laser fuser creates.

In general, standard bond papers, even those designated for inkjet use,
which are not coated on either side, can be used in both laser and
inkjet printers, as can most laser printer paper. Most "plain" papers
and card stocks which to not have other issues (too thick, etc) will
work in an inkjet printer, but the quality of the image will be
compromised due to "dot gain" or color bleeding.

In general, inks which use pigment colorants will hold the image
together better than dye colorant types with plain paper types.

Art

 

[Terry Pinnell]

Inkjet printers use no heat or fusing process. The only heat that is
generated on thermal inkjet head printers, is to heat the ink to propel
it onto the paper, which doesn't heat the paper. The only issues with
paper choices for inkjet printers are:

Is the paper intact such that surfaces or glues, or other parts won't
flake off, or disintegrate during the printing or transport process?

Is the paper flexible enough to go through the paper transport if it has
to be curved or curled to get through?

Is the paper thin enough to clear through the paper transport? Is the
paper thick or rigid enough to get through the printer, and not get too
wet and soft, or bleed ink through the back?

Are the paper's edges straight and smooth enough to not get caught or
snagged on something along the way through the printer?


In terms of quality of the result:

Not all papers, even ones which claim "works with all inkjet printers"
will necessarily give the best quality print. Due to differences in ink
formulations (dye, hybrid, pigment, pigment and resin, etc), and the
technologies used in inkjet printers (Thermal versus piezo) papers react
differently. There is a reason why some inkjet brand papers do a better
job than generic papers, and it may take some experimentation to find
the right paper for your inks. Some papers will state the brands or
models or ink type that paper is recommended for, others, as stated,
will claim good for all but quality will vary with the printer you use.

Some papers will exaggerate banding, cause the ink to bead, not dry
correctly, may smear or the ink may transfer to the rollers in the
printer. Some papers will ripple, pucker, curl as they dry, cause
surface or gloss differential or bronzing between areas which have ink,
or certain color inks, and areas which do not. In general if you are
using OEM inks and use the OEM papers for that brand, they have been
tested or formulated to work together.

However, some at costly, and certain paper surfaces are not available
OEM so you may wish to experiment.

Papers with loose bonded fibers and which are uncoated and coarse
surfaces will tend to bleed considerably

Thin papers will tend to lack opacity which may make them not usable for
double sided printing. Lowering the amount of ink (by lowering
saturation and darkness or density adjustments in the driver) or by
using a profile for draft printing, or a profile for a plastic film may
use less ink than matte or plain paper settings.

Papers which have a true plastic coated or wax coated surface will
usually not take water-based inkjet inks, and they will bead up, smear,
or not dry at all or take a long time to do so.

Some inkjet specialized paper will has a seemingly plastic surface, but
it may actually be a swellable polymer (if you wet your finer and put it
on a corner of the paper and the paper sticks to your finger, it is
likely a swellable polymer type. Touching the paper with wet fingers
will ruin the area touched. It may also be a porous plastic which
allows the ink to go through the plastic surface and get locked into a
receptive ceramic or paper surface below it. Also, some papers are
coated with a very glossy ceramic surface which has very small pores in
it to allow the ink to enter a lower layer and get locked in and waterproof.

Some plastic films, some transparent, some translucent, and some opaque
white may have a special ink receptive coating on it. In general, films
of this nature which indicate they are for laser printers WILL not have
that coating and although they won't damage your inkjet printer, the ink
will not hold or dye on the surface. Such materials which are designated
for inkjet use should NOT be used in a laser printer, as the plastic
itself and the coating may both not be able to tolerate the heat the
laser fuser creates.

In general, standard bond papers, even those designated for inkjet use,
which are not coated on either side, can be used in both laser and
inkjet printers, as can most laser printer paper. Most "plain" papers
and card stocks which to not have other issues (too thick, etc) will
work in an inkjet printer, but the quality of the image will be
compromised due to "dot gain" or color bleeding.

In general, inks which use pigment colorants will hold the image
together better than dye colorant types with plain paper types.

Art

Great, thanks Art. Goes into my file for future reference. Meanwhile
can anyone recommend a double-sided glossy inkjet paper please, UK
online supplied? I want gloss on both sides. Just bought 25 sheets of
A4, 150g 'Photo Gloss' from www.photopaperdirect.com, but that is matt
on the back.

BTW, after much frustration I eventually made my finished card by
printing images on the glossy side of my original paper, like this:

.-------------------------------------.
|.----------------. .----------------.|
|| Top of image | | Top of image ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Back | | Front ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|'----------------' '----------------'|
|.----------------. .----------------.|
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Inside Left | | Inside Left ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Top of image | | Top of image ||
|'----------------' '----------------'|
'-------------------------------------'

I folded it (vertically and horizontally) *before* printing, which I
felt would minimise the risk of spoiling the result by the
considerable handling/squeezing necessary for to get decent creases.
The disadvantage of this was that the slightly raised creases had a
little ink on them in places. (Tipp-Ex to the rescue!)

The major problem I had was getting the images and gaps positioned
correctly for the folds. I was using PaintShop Pro 8, but I'm darned
if I've ever properly understood why the Print Preview can't give a
workably accurate representation of what I'll actually get. In the end
I resorted to trial/error, using b/w economy mode. If anyone has any
practical advice on this aspect I'd appreciate hearing it please.

 

[Terry Pinnell]

silly typo. South west section should be Inside Right:


.-------------------------------------.
|.----------------. .----------------.|
|| Top of image | | Top of image ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Back | | Front ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|'----------------' '----------------'|
|.----------------. .----------------.|
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Inside Right | | Inside Left ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| | | ||
|| Top of image | | Top of image ||
|'----------------' '----------------'|
'-------------------------------------'

 

[Arthur Entlich]

That's what I was trying to explain via this word description in a
previous email, perhaps not very effectively...

Also, if you print the card the right way and do a four way fold, if

you print the front and back in one direction, and the inside panels
upside down and fold it, you can print the whole card on one sheet on
one side. Using a full letter size (8.5" x 11" page, the card will end
up folded dimensions of 5.5" x 4.25" front surface with the two inside
panels being 5.5" x 8.5" total.

Art

 

[rjn]

Inkjet printers use no heat or fusing process. The only heat that is
generated on thermal inkjet head printers, is to heat the ink to propel
it onto the paper, which doesn't heat the paper.

Not quite true. Some inkjet printers have heaters to dry the ink.

I know that the hp DeskJet 1200 and 1600 had this feature, but
it's unlikely any of those are still in use. I would not be surprised
to learn that later or still-current models from one of more makers
have this feature.

Not all papers, even ones which claim "works with all inkjet printers"
will necessarily give the best quality print.

"Works with all" often means "not quite satisfactory results with
all".
It could be subtext for "don't use in your laser printer"

For really unpredictable results, use refilled ink.

 

[Burt]

For really unpredictable results, use refilled ink.

Wrong, Bob. Results with good quality refill inks are absolutely
predictable. I've used MIS (imaging Specialists) and now Imaging Specialist
inks from Precision Colors in my Canon i960 and Canon ip5000 for nearly four
years with totally stable results. The colors are extremely close to Canon
OEM inks. If I wanted to get the colors abolutely spot on with the images
on my monitor I would calibrate my monitor and get a custom profile for the
ink/paper combination I use most often. Of course, you must also be using
software that has the ability to do color management with a custom profile.
Canon OEM inks tend, in the i960, to over emphasize red tones - not perfect
by any means!

My question to you is - on a thread dealing with printing both sides of
paper, why would you offer an unsolicited, gratuitous comment on the evils
of aftermarket inks? I know that some posters on the thread did comment on
various inks, but the major difference noted was between dye and pigment
based inks. Do you feel compelled to protect us from those vicious vendors
of cheap colored water posing as inkjet inks, or are you Measekite's alter
ego???

 

[Arthur Entlich]

Your point is actually well taken, and you are correct. Some large
format inkjet printers did and may still use heaters to dry ink. The
larger printers need to run faster, and to decrease drying time they may
use heaters. In general these heaters are relatively low temperature
compared with laser fusers, but you are correct. HP uses some swellable
polymer papers which are slow to dry, but work well with thermal inkjet
heads, and that paper does protect against fading by integrating the
inks into the polymer layer.

Third party inks may take a bit more experimentation to profile
correctly and in choosing paper types, but the other side is it may open
you up to many more papers via 3rd party and the savings in both ink and
paper can be substantial for those who wish to take the time to figure
it out.

Art

 

[Arthur Entlich]

Hi Burt,

I know this is a sensitive area on this newsgroup, unfortunately, due to
our neighborhood troll, but I think you may be "killing the messenger"
in this case.

I think the reason Bob brought this matter up was probably because I
made a comment in my small treatise on paper types about OEM ink and
paper combinations being more reliable than mixing and matching. In
general, this is true, BTW. Most inks and papers made or distributed
under the name of the OEM will have been tested if not formulated for
each other.

However, that doesn't preclude that 3rd party inks and papers can't or
won't work. It is just that they take more testing to determine which
work best with one another. For the occasional printer, who wants
consistent results without a lot of experimentation or wishful thinking,
using OEM will probably be a better choice, although considerably more
costly.

For people who do a lot of printing and go through a lot of consumables,
it may well be worth it to experiment and test to find the best ink and
paper combinations. It can save well over 50% which can become
substantial for those who churn out even a couple of prints a day.

Art

 

[measekite]

Burt wrote:

"rjn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:fa7cd56b-ac15-4d48-9023-582bca9a42dc@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...



On Mar 18, 9:23 pm, Arthur Entlich <[email protected]> wrote:



(snip)



For really unpredictable results, use refilled ink. -- Regards, Bob Niland



Wrong, Bob. Results with good quality refill inks are absolutely

Oh Yeah Predictably Poor


used MIS (imaging Specialists) and now Imaging Specialist inks from Precision Colors in my Canon i960 and Canon ip5000 for nearly four years with totally stable results. The colors are extremely close to Canon OEM inks.

Close if that is true is no cigar.  And look at the mess


If I wanted to get the colors abolutely spot on with the images on my monitor I would calibrate my monitor and get a custom profile for the ink/paper combination I use most often.

Paper companies do not make profiles for non OEM ink since they always have a moving target and do not know what they are


Of course, you must also be using software that has the ability to do color management with a custom profile. Canon OEM inks tend, in the i960, to over emphasize red tones - not perfect by any means!

But the best.  And remember that is 4 generations old technology


My question to you is - on a thread dealing with printing both sides of paper, why would you offer an unsolicited, gratuitous comment on the evils of aftermarket inks?

Because he knows they are crap

He knows they can clog the printer unless you print a lot

He knows that they cannot produce the best results

He knows the vendors will not disclose what they are selling

He knows that the vendor can change suppliers and not tell him

He knows the consistency is not there

He knows there is an increased risk for fading

He knows the same crap is sold under different names and even the same vendor sells under different names on different webs so it is very difficult if not impossible to know what you are getting.

He knows that the vendors do not fully disclose what you are getting

He knows that spending less does not necessarily equate to saving money because the products are not the same


I know that some posters on the thread did comment on various inks, but the major difference noted was between dye and pigment based inks. Do you feel compelled to protect us from those vicious vendors of cheap colored water posing as inkjet inks, or are you Measekite's alter ego???

Based on what he knows he is not an idiot like many posters here who lie about their results.  Not everyone lies some just exaggerate while others do not have the capacity and experience to tell the difference.  Still others have very low standards.  They would think that the ford focus is a great car or drive a chevy surburban and spend $400 a month for gas telling everybody how much they save on the crap ink by going thru the mess of refilling.

 

[measekite]

Well, if you know Bob like I do and as long as I've known him you would
understand.

All he understands is pushing his agenda.

He has the tendency to spout misinformation without thinking or
having any real world experience on the subject he's trying to assert
himself into. I've went many rounds with Bob over this same type of
nonsense in the eBay group. It's to the point that it is best to
ignore him
and correct him when his nonsense has the potential to cause damage to
someone's equipment.

That is correct. Crap ink has:

the propensity to clog the printer
fade the prints
and produce substandard results.

Spend all this money on a Nikon camera and great lenses plus the time to
take great photos and then use crap ink to reduce the amount you spend
to see the results.

These people who do this do not take photographs. They are snapshooters
who do not value the results.

 

[measekite]

Your point is actually well taken, and you are correct. Some large
format inkjet printers did and may still use heaters to dry ink. The
larger printers need to run faster, and to decrease drying time they
may use heaters. In general these heaters are relatively low
temperature compared with laser fusers, but you are correct. HP uses
some swellable polymer papers which are slow to dry, but work well
with thermal inkjet heads, and that paper does protect against fading
by integrating the inks into the polymer layer.

Third party inks may take a bit more experimentation Of course they do
to profile correctly and in choosing paper types, but the other side
is it may open you up to many more papers via 3rd party and the
savings in both ink

No savings just spending less and getting less.

 

[measekite]

Arthur Entlich wrote: Hi Burt,

I know this is a sensitive area on this newsgroup, unfortunately, due to our neighborhood troll, but I think you may be "killing the messenger" in this case.

I think the reason Bob brought this matter up was probably because I made a comment in my small treatise on paper types about OEM ink and paper combinations being more reliable than mixing and matching.  In general, this is true, BTW.  Most inks and papers made or distributed under the name of the OEM will have been tested if not formulated for each other.
DUH

Is there an echo in this ng

However, that doesn't preclude that 3rd party inks and papers can't or won't work. You never know what you are buying or reordering so it is very difficult to impossible
  It is just that they take more testing to determine which work best with one another.  For the occasional printer, who wants consistent results without a lot of experimentation or wishful thinking,
using OEM will probably be a better choice,
although considerably more costly.

For people who do a lot of printing and go through a lot of consumables, it may well be worth it to experiment and test to find the best ink and paper combinations.  It can save well over 50% which can become substantial for those who churn out even a couple of prints a day.

Art


Burt wrote:
"rjn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:fa7cd56b-ac15-4d48-9023-582bca9a42dc@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 18, 9:23 pm, Arthur Entlich <[email protected]> wrote:
(snip)
For really unpredictable results, use refilled ink.

--
Regards, Bob Niland

Wrong, Bob.  Results with good quality refill inks are absolutely predictable.  I've used MIS (imaging Specialists) and now Imaging Specialist inks from Precision Colors in my Canon i960 and Canon ip5000 for nearly four years with totally stable results.  The colors are extremely close to Canon OEM inks.  If I wanted to get the colors abolutely spot on with the images on my monitor I would calibrate my monitor and get a custom profile for the ink/paper combination I use most often.  Of course, you must also be using software that has the ability to do color management with a custom profile. Canon OEM inks tend, in the i960, to over emphasize red tones - not perfect by any means!

My question to you is - on a thread dealing with printing both sides of paper, why would you offer an unsolicited, gratuitous comment on the evils of aftermarket inks?  I know that some posters on the thread did comment on various inks, but the major difference noted was between dye and pigment based inks.  Do you feel compelled to protect us from those vicious vendors of cheap colored water posing as inkjet inks, or are you Measekite's alter ego???

 

[measekite]

Burt wrote:

"rjn" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:fa7cd56b-ac15-4d48-9023-582bca9a42dc@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...



On Mar 18, 9:23 pm, Arthur Entlich <[email protected]> wrote:



(snip)



For really unpredictable results, use refilled ink. -- Regards, Bob Niland



Wrong, Bob.

He is correct


Results with good quality refill inks are absolutely predictable. I've used MIS (imaging Specialists) and now Imaging Specialist inks from Precision Colors in my Canon i960 and Canon ip5000 for nearly four years with totally stable results. The colors are extremely close to Canon OEM inks. If I wanted to get the colors abolutely spot on with the images on my monitor I would calibrate my monitor and get a custom profile for the ink/paper combination I use most often. Of course, you must also be using software that has the ability to do color management with a custom profile. Canon OEM inks tend, in the i960, to over emphasize red tones - not perfect by any means! My question to you is - on a thread dealing with printing both sides of paper, why would you offer an unsolicited, gratuitous comment on the evils of aftermarket inks?

Because what he said is true.


I know that some posters on the thread did comment on various inks, but the major difference noted was between dye and pigment based inks. Do you feel compelled to protect us from those vicious vendors of cheap colored water posing as inkjet inks, or are you Measekite's alter ego???