P
Paul
DK said:
Next time, you could try a gentle rotation about the Z axis.
To try to break the "vacuum" caused by the paste. That
doesn't guarantee easy disassembly - it's just an alternative
to ripping the CPU right out of the socket. I've pulled a CPU
right out of the socket that way too, but I didn't lose any pins.
And the thermal paste is doing what is is supposed to do. Resist
movement away from the joint between CPU and cooler.
Another technique to use, which isn't always available,
is to run Prime95 for ten minutes (warm up CPU), immediately
shut down, and work on the cooler. If the paste is warm,
the cooler may come off a bit easier. If you seek to apply
external heat to the cooling assembly, it would probably
be a good idea to remove the fan assembly and wiring
before doing that, so the fan body doesn't get cooked
There are people who solder CPU pins back on. The success of
doing such a thing, is going to depend on technique and materials.
Regular tin-lead solder is not a structural material, and if
you use that, the pin might not be very strong. Perhaps a
silver-solder might work better. (Silver-solder is brittle
compared to tin-lead, and selecting just the right solder
for the job is the tricky part. There are a *lot* of different
solder compositions on the market - they're not all available
at Radio Shack though.) Doing a bit of Googling, I see people
recommending a jeweler as a repair person for that.
They might at least have some idea of what solder to use,
even if they don't have the right tool to get in there
and make the connection. You don't really want to get solder
all over the "leg" of the pin, and you want the solder
to stay near the joint - it might take a solder paste
and hot air to achieve such a result. Holding a soldering
iron to the top of the pin, will get solder everywhere
(take this from a person who gets solder everywhere,
when he works...).
Paul