Hard disk rubber jackets

[DevilsPGD]

In message <[email protected]> kony

It looks like there would be a lot of options due to how
little of the card extends to that point. Since it's just
the edge of the card it's rather thin and just about
anything you wanted to use could have a channel made into it
by pulling a few tines off of a 'sink, or an edge-grinder or
table-saw used to make a slot. A plain old Pentium 1
heatsink might work too, a many of them weren't more than
1-1.5 cm tall.

Yeah, I'm without access to power tools though. I'm hoping I can just
use a chipset heatsink that I've already got kicking around (A Zalman
one, although I forget the model without pulling it out), if I can
wiggle it into the right position I might not need to modify it at all.

I bought it for my old system, but I never did get around to taking the
motherboard out and I couldn't pop the chipset fan off without removing
the motherboard in the process.

This system has only two expansion slots in use, plus I want to rerun
the cables, so taking out the motherboard would be fun rather then pain

It was my impression that it was optional, do you even need
it installed? If that's the case it might make more
difference to an overclocker.

Other then the fact that it's optional, I'm having trouble finding out
exactly what it does or why/if I need it, other then as an alternate
voltage regulation option.

System stability is my number one concern, and stable power is an
absolute requirement for stability, but I seem to be doing okay without
it too.

Unplug it, try to start the system, and measure the temps of
the rest of the regulation capacitors next to the socket.
If you can feel a difference in their heat without the VRM
board, compared to with it (while running full load stress
test like Prime95 's Torture Test for at least 20 minutes).

They might be SLIGHTLY warmer, or it could be that the airflow is
different without the stupid little fan.

Based on this, I'm not too concerned, the additional air from the Zalman
CNPS7700-AlCu cooler that I prefer (due to the fact that I've used it
before, and it's almost silent) should compensate anyway.

Agreed, or if you took 4 pieces of metal, just straight
stripes with 2 holes each and used them as adapters to mount
a fan that was larger than the top of the heatsink, for
example a 92mm fan, then there should be flow between the
'sink and VRM card enough to cool it some- and it should not
really need that dedicated fan-'sink they used, "some"
airflow is just a lot better than none. Main problem with
adapter pieces as decrribed is that they're fiddly to
install, if the fan isn't a lot bigger than the 'sink then
it may be easiest to use small bolts & nuts for the 4 fan
corners after screwing down the pieces and that can require
some agility or curved forcepts/similar to hold the parts
during aseembly.

Possible too... More and more I'm leaning towards just losing the DPS
entirely unless I can get a concrete answer on why I should keep it
and/or find a reasonable way to do it.

Worst case, I can always change my mind and reinstall it later.

Interestingly enough, I also discovered that my system runs not only
without the DPS, but without the 4-pin CPU power connector too. Weird.

 

[kony]

Yeah, I'm without access to power tools though.

Power tools are far more important than passive cooling.
They are an end onto themselves.

I'm hoping I can just
use a chipset heatsink that I've already got kicking around (A Zalman
one, although I forget the model without pulling it out), if I can
wiggle it into the right position I might not need to modify it at all.

I bought it for my old system, but I never did get around to taking the
motherboard out and I couldn't pop the chipset fan off without removing
the motherboard in the process.

You've never heard of the old "destroy the 'sink pins with
wire cutters" trick? Most of them arent too hard to cut
through so you can just snip them off at the top. Every now
and then they have metal springs on them though, making it
then important to be sure no metal fragments fall down into
the abyss.

This system has only two expansion slots in use, plus I want to rerun
the cables, so taking out the motherboard would be fun rather then pain

Last case I did, I was exceptionally motivated and cut some
access panels in the back for behind the CPU socket area,
northbridge (though being smaller that hole may not line up
the next time the mobo is swapped in that case), opposite
side access to lower drive rack, and a few extra holes for
using wire-ties to secure things. I'm often surprised how
seldom people mention wire-ties, since 50 cents worth of
them is more than enough to tidy up a system a lot.

Other then the fact that it's optional, I'm having trouble finding out
exactly what it does or why/if I need it, other then as an alternate
voltage regulation option.

I suspect it serves as an intermediary stage to step-down
the voltage some, or more likely, it's in parallel with the
main onboard regulation stage. You should be able to take
voltage readings, input and output, to get a better idea.

System stability is my number one concern, and stable power is an
absolute requirement for stability, but I seem to be doing okay without
it too.

A64 isn't all that power hungry, relatively speaking. Seems
manufacturers have the most trouble when a new era of CPU
ushers in a significantly higher current consumption and/or
wattage, but with A64, the preceeding Athlon XP and current
P4 makes it look pretty static from a power perspective.
Plus, after awhile the major capacitor manufacturers focused
a bit more on ultra-low ESR 'lytics, easing the need for
vast real-estate to regulate. Darn shame ALL the
manufacturers aren't using them yet but then some boards cut
a lot of corners. Yours certainly doesn't fall into that
category.

They might be SLIGHTLY warmer, or it could be that the airflow is
different without the stupid little fan.

You unplugged the fan on the card or the whole VRM card?
I meant to unplug the whole VRM card, remove it from the
motherboard entirely.

If you use the VRM card and use that heatsink with the same
diameter fan (so there is minimal airflow between the VRM
card and the side of the 'sink), I wouldn't use only a
passive 'sink. In that case, I'd flip the label on the fan
and put some nice thick synthetic lube in it, then put a ~
68 Ohm ( +- 20 Ohm) 1W resistor on it to slow it down some.

Based on this, I'm not too concerned, the additional air from the Zalman
CNPS7700-AlCu cooler that I prefer (due to the fact that I've used it
before, and it's almost silent) should compensate anyway.

Yes, if you swap in that heatsink you should not need the
VRM card fan at all and should completely remove it from the
'sink, IF you leave the original 'sink on instead of
swapping in a passive one (I dont' know how they attached
the 'sink, so no idea how hard it is to replace it).

Possible too... More and more I'm leaning towards just losing the DPS
entirely unless I can get a concrete answer on why I should keep it
and/or find a reasonable way to do it.

Worst case, I can always change my mind and reinstall it later.

Interestingly enough, I also discovered that my system runs not only
without the DPS, but without the 4-pin CPU power connector too. Weird.

Hmm. Either they tied the 12V line from the ATX conn. to
the aux 12V 4-pin, they're common to each other on the
board, or by having both VRM subcircuits they were drawing
some power from both the 5V & 12V rails. I wouldn't operate
it without the 4-pin 12V conn though if it's a case of the
former.

 

[Skeleton Man]

I've just been re-jigging some kit and installing a Seagate HD. This

particular Gateway machine has a tool-less arrangement for fitting hard
disks which conflicts with the rubber jacket on the Seagate disk. It
kind of rucks up as you slide it in. Currently I've taken the jacket off
and it seems to work ok.

Can you see any problems with removing the rubber jacket? Any thoughts?

I know what you mean by the rubber jacket, I used to own a Seagate Barracuda
which had one (majority of seagates I see have them on). I don't think it would
do any harm to remove it, as it's just there to stop vibration, etc and it's not
something vital to the operation of the drive (think of it as a cushion).\

I'm thinking I'd lose out on sound insulation and shock resistance (but
I'm careful, and hardly ever bounce hard disks on the floor), but gain
on heat dissipation.

Sound insulation maybe to a nominal extent (it's not like it's gonna be 3x
louder coz you took the rubber off), shock resistance I doubt it.. (2mm of
rubber isn't gonna make much difference dropping it on a floor or a bench), and
heat dissipation again maybe a nominal amount (1 - 2 degrees perhaps).

Regards,
Chris

 

[Bob]

I know what you mean by the rubber jacket, I used to own a Seagate Barracuda
which had one (majority of seagates I see have them on). I don't think it would
do any harm to remove it, as it's just there to stop vibration, etc and it's not
something vital to the operation of the drive (think of it as a cushion).\

Why not contact Seagate tech support and ask them if it is safe to
remove the rubber jacket.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

This particular Gateway machine has a tool-less arrangement
for fitting hard disks which conflicts with the rubber
jacket on the Seagate disk.

Can you see any problems with removing the rubber jacket? Any thoughts?

Seagate says it voids the warranty, so if you remove it and later need
to put it back on before sending it back to Seagate, be sure to wipe
the fingerprints because they may check for this.

A few years ago, all Seagate drives had protective covers over their
circuit boards, either a rubber jacket or some sheet metal. I noticed
that my 80GB Baracudda IV with sheet metal cover ran about 3 deg.
Celcius hotter than other brands of drives with uncovered circuit
boards (temps. measured at aluminum casting, not with software), but
when i removed the cover it ran just as cool. So I run this drive
uncovered.

 

[John Fryatt]

Hi,

I've just been re-jigging some kit and installing a Seagate HD. This
particular Gateway machine has a tool-less arrangement for fitting hard
disks which conflicts with the rubber jacket on the Seagate disk. It
kind of rucks up as you slide it in. Currently I've taken the jacket off
and it seems to work ok.

Can you see any problems with removing the rubber jacket? Any thoughts?

Other HDs don't have that jacket, indeed even other Seagates don't have
it, so does it matter?
I'm thinking I'd lose out on sound insulation and shock resistance (but
I'm careful, and hardly ever bounce hard disks on the floor), but gain
on heat dissipation.

Thanks everyone for your advice. I'm still running it without the jacket
and it hasn't exploded yet, so I'll carry on that way! ;-)

Point re. fingerprints noted. Maybe I should have installed it wearing
gloves? ;-)

 

[DevilsPGD]

In message <[email protected]> kony

Power tools are far more important than passive cooling.
They are an end onto themselves.

Bah. I don't disagree, but my financial priorities are elsewhere right
now.

You've never heard of the old "destroy the 'sink pins with
wire cutters" trick? Most of them arent too hard to cut
through so you can just snip them off at the top. Every now
and then they have metal springs on them though, making it
then important to be sure no metal fragments fall down into
the abyss.

I did one better, I was able to position things to work without
modifying anything

Last case I did, I was exceptionally motivated and cut some
access panels in the back for behind the CPU socket area,
northbridge (though being smaller that hole may not line up
the next time the mobo is swapped in that case), opposite
side access to lower drive rack, and a few extra holes for
using wire-ties to secure things. I'm often surprised how
seldom people mention wire-ties, since 50 cents worth of
them is more than enough to tidy up a system a lot.

Yeah definitely. I can't say it's something I discuss a lot, but I've
been using them -- Not only to tie cables together, but to attach them
to the case sometimes too.

I've been using some plastic twist tie-type things which stick to the
case, they can be opened again when I need to move cables around, but
they help the wiring a lot.

I suspect it serves as an intermediary stage to step-down
the voltage some, or more likely, it's in parallel with the
main onboard regulation stage. You should be able to take
voltage readings, input and output, to get a better idea.

Unfortunately it doesn't have an input or an output separate except on
the tooth-style connector, and the leads aren't exposed.

Interestingly enough I was able to get a Zalman CNPS7700-AlCu on and
leave the DPS module in place, only the fan on the DPS needed to be
removed.

The Zalman CNPS7700-AlCu provides almost as much airflow as the little
fan I removed did, so I think I'm probably better off. Either way,
nothing goes beyond warm to the touch, so I think I'm good.

A64 isn't all that power hungry, relatively speaking. Seems
manufacturers have the most trouble when a new era of CPU
ushers in a significantly higher current consumption and/or
wattage, but with A64, the preceeding Athlon XP and current
P4 makes it look pretty static from a power perspective.

Yeah, thankfully. I haven't done any research yet, but are the X2s much
worse then a regular A64?

Yours certainly doesn't fall into that
category.

Nope. I'm really thrilled with this motherboard so far, and the cost
wasn't all that excessive either.

You unplugged the fan on the card or the whole VRM card?
I meant to unplug the whole VRM card, remove it from the
motherboard entirely.

When I wrote the above I was referring to removing the entire VRM card.
I'm now using the card, but without it's fan. I've got good airflow
though, so I think I'm okay.

Hmm. Either they tied the 12V line from the ATX conn. to
the aux 12V 4-pin, they're common to each other on the
board, or by having both VRM subcircuits they were drawing
some power from both the 5V & 12V rails. I wouldn't operate
it without the 4-pin 12V conn though if it's a case of the
former.

I wasn't doing it intentionally, just an oversight. I was rather amused
it ran at all that way.

 

[kony]

I did one better, I was able to position things to work without
modifying anything

No mods?!
What fun is that?

Yeah, thankfully. I haven't done any research yet, but are the X2s much
worse then a regular A64?

Should be a little higher, supposedly the TDP goes up
slightly past 100W but then FX-55 gets up to same region.
Then again the core surface area should be larger so that'll
help some. Plus, it may only be limited circustances that
can push both cores towards maximum heat.

Nope. I'm really thrilled with this motherboard so far, and the cost
wasn't all that excessive either.

Gigabyte is odd in that they seem to make some boards rather
spartan then others they almost go over the top.

When I wrote the above I was referring to removing the entire VRM card.
I'm now using the card, but without it's fan. I've got good airflow
though, so I think I'm okay.

Likely true, many boards still don't have 'sinks on the
'fets, let alone an active, fanned 'sink.

I think they mostly did it for show, with a dual power
design splitting up the current it should be all the less
necessary for a 'sink at all.