Still, your point in another reply about moving parts set my mind to
thinking and it occured to me that a larger capacity drive will mean
that the read head works harder.
If large meant it used more read head, it might be possible
but if large simply mean higher density platter then the
read head will end up moving less, providing there's same
amount of data, particularly if contrasted with a very small
drive that got nearly full and then data was either
fragmented often or repeatedly needed defragged.
Obviously, the part that's goint to go
first would be the pivot on the read head arm. That's been the problem
on all of the drives that have gone out on me. In fact, it's my
understanding that this is what makes the "click... click... click..."
noise: the read head arm sticking and then breaking loose.
If I were going to deliberately try to keep a HDD working as
long as possible, put the odds in favor of it even though
there is no proof it would help, I would:
Choose lowest RPM available
Set the acoustic noise management to quietest (slowest)
Provide lots of airflow, cool ambient temps, and if the
environment was anything but very clean, filters. While a
drive is sealed, most have a filtered vent hole still.
Beyond that, you could touch-test the various chips since a
drive's internal temp report is not telling of anything but
one lone spot on one component on the PCB, then provide more
airflow or 'sink any portions that were getting hotter.
Right now I have the newly acquired Maxtor drive out &
upside down in a testbed and I'm suprised that none of the
chips are gettting more than very mildly warm to the touch
with a very low RPM (undervolted) fan blowing across it. I
haven't taken a SMART temp reading from it yet but it's
certianly cooler running than past generations of 7K2 drives
from several manufacturers, including past Maxtors.