T
Tony Hwang
Hi,Richard said:
Adhesive? Oh, no. I don't think so.
Adhesive? Oh, no. I don't think so.
B
Bob Headrick
This sounds like a bad (and unnecessary) idea. For starters, turn on the
printer then open the lid. The carriage will move to one of five locations
indicating that either the cartrdiges are OK, black or color are low on ink
or black or color are electrically defective. If the cartrdige light is
flashing and the printer will not print then either the black or color
cartridge is bad, you can see which one has failed by looking at the icon
the carriage pointer lines up with. See:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericDocument?lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&docname=bpd09173
If one of the cartrdige is indicated as the problem then replace that
cartridge.
If the indicator lines up with the smiley face then the blinking light is
indicating something else, see
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...9630&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN
as there are issues other than cartridge issues that can be indicated by a
blinking light.
Regards,
Bob Headrick, MS MVP Printing/Imaging
M
measekite
john bates wrote:
"Andrew1243" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On Jul 13, 4:43 pm, "john bates" <[email protected]> wrote:
I have a Deskjet 940c which has been working well for the past 9 months with me refilling the carts when needed. Two weeks ago the black ran out whilst printing text, so I refilled as per usual. Then (as with Andrew 1234 a few days ago) the black cart indicator light started flashing and has done so for the past fortnight. I read with interest the whole of Andrew's post below and tried all the tips written there with no avail. No matter what I do the bl.y thing goes on flashing! I'll be very grateful for any ideas that might fix it. John.
You may have read from one of the links provided by Bob Headrick http://groups.google.com/group/comp.periphs.printers/browse_thread/thread/435cfaec7de7a0ec/f4c45dba9f1d37b6?lnk=gst&q=842&rnum=1#f4c45dba9f1d37b6 that the contacts on the gold foil of the cartridge and the cartridge carrier may become whitish with crystalized contact lubricant. (That wasn't my problem, though). I looked closely at the black ink cartridge that failed for me, and it seemed to be slightly darker than shiny copper. Following a recommendation, I used a pencil eraser to rub the foil contacts on the ink cartridge (carefully remove any rubber particles with a soft cloth) and it seemed to rub off the dark haze. I don't know if this "worked" because this is not now a cartridge that I am using. This recommendation went on to use the eraser, if necessary, to clean the contacts in the cartridge carrier. I haven't tried this. If I did try it, I would be very careful to not bend the little contact points in the carrier.
Hi Andrew, Many thanks for trying to help. I've spent a lot of the past two weeks doing all the things I've read about over and over again, as if teasing me it still flashes away. Before I throw it away, I'm going to take it outside hose it down dry it out and start again. John.
WOW
With all that time you could have earned enough to buy a new Canon IP4300 and use OEM ink even at the rate of 5 cents an hour.
"Andrew1243" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On Jul 13, 4:43 pm, "john bates" <[email protected]> wrote:
I have a Deskjet 940c which has been working well for the past 9 months with me refilling the carts when needed. Two weeks ago the black ran out whilst printing text, so I refilled as per usual. Then (as with Andrew 1234 a few days ago) the black cart indicator light started flashing and has done so for the past fortnight. I read with interest the whole of Andrew's post below and tried all the tips written there with no avail. No matter what I do the bl.y thing goes on flashing! I'll be very grateful for any ideas that might fix it. John.
You may have read from one of the links provided by Bob Headrick http://groups.google.com/group/comp.periphs.printers/browse_thread/thread/435cfaec7de7a0ec/f4c45dba9f1d37b6?lnk=gst&q=842&rnum=1#f4c45dba9f1d37b6 that the contacts on the gold foil of the cartridge and the cartridge carrier may become whitish with crystalized contact lubricant. (That wasn't my problem, though). I looked closely at the black ink cartridge that failed for me, and it seemed to be slightly darker than shiny copper. Following a recommendation, I used a pencil eraser to rub the foil contacts on the ink cartridge (carefully remove any rubber particles with a soft cloth) and it seemed to rub off the dark haze. I don't know if this "worked" because this is not now a cartridge that I am using. This recommendation went on to use the eraser, if necessary, to clean the contacts in the cartridge carrier. I haven't tried this. If I did try it, I would be very careful to not bend the little contact points in the carrier.
Hi Andrew, Many thanks for trying to help. I've spent a lot of the past two weeks doing all the things I've read about over and over again, as if teasing me it still flashes away. Before I throw it away, I'm going to take it outside hose it down dry it out and start again. John.
WOW
With all that time you could have earned enough to buy a new Canon IP4300 and use OEM ink even at the rate of 5 cents an hour.
F
Frank
measekite said:
I just send a complain about you continuing to post in html.
I'm hoping your ISP shuts your ignorant dumb ass down once and for all.
Frank
F
Francis Fronzaglia
You are a spammer.
J
john bates
Bob Headrick said:
Thanks Bob,
It has always indicated on the black cart, but after
having
done all the cleaning of pins inside and out and fitting 2 new carts BW,
changed the Col cart, done all the start ups removing power etc,Oh and
changing the driver. I think I'll give up now.
It owes me nothing, it's been printing pics and stuff every day for about
9 months and for this one I only gave £4 on the local market, I have had
4 similar DeskJet's over the past 5 - 6 years all performed well.
It's always been a bit of a fight with them when you refill your own carts
but well worth it.
Thanks again for your help. John.
M
measekite
john said:
The best fix is to trot down to your local store and buy a Canon
IP4300. And be sure to use Canon ink.
A
Arthur Entlich
I'm not sure, but I think the wording HP used may be the problem. I
think what they mean is that they use a conductive lubricant to
"connect" (rather than attach) the contacts in the printer itself, to
the pad contacts on the cartridge. In other words, the lubricant
bridges the connection between the contact within the printer carriage
area and the contact pads on the printer cartridge. Not that the
cartridge pads are "attached" to the cartridge via the lubricant.
Then Bob's explanation makes more sense. They use a lubricant on the
surface of the cartridge pad to allow the pads to slide on the printer
contact point so they don't damage one another during this installation
process. The lubricant should be conductive to avoid poor conductivity
between the two points, but sometimes the lubricant develops crystals
which may prevent proper conductivity.
At least that's how I read it.
Art
think what they mean is that they use a conductive lubricant to
"connect" (rather than attach) the contacts in the printer itself, to
the pad contacts on the cartridge. In other words, the lubricant
bridges the connection between the contact within the printer carriage
area and the contact pads on the printer cartridge. Not that the
cartridge pads are "attached" to the cartridge via the lubricant.
Then Bob's explanation makes more sense. They use a lubricant on the
surface of the cartridge pad to allow the pads to slide on the printer
contact point so they don't damage one another during this installation
process. The lubricant should be conductive to avoid poor conductivity
between the two points, but sometimes the lubricant develops crystals
which may prevent proper conductivity.
At least that's how I read it.
Art
R
Richard Steinfeld
Arthur said:
You bet!
At one time, HP had a fine documentation department. I doubt that they'd
have hired anyone who wrote like this. That department is long gone,
right Bob?
I
I'm not aware of conductive lubricants other than fairly crude,
traditional stuff like graphite greases. These are sloppy and
semi-conductive (function like resistors) -- and could bridge adjacent
circuits if they got smeared. I don't think I'd want them around printer
cartridge connectors.
Let me give a logical guess.
1. The contact strips are attached with a suitable adhesive, maybe an
industrial-grade cyanoacrylic.
2. In electronics work, the word "lubricant" has been used with
compounded contact cleaning fluids as somewhat of a catchall. This is a
bit complicated. I'll try:
- Plain contact cleaner is typically an inert liquid that evaporates
quickly. It used to be a freon, and now other liquids are used instead.
- Clasic cleaner-lubricants were freon plus a silicone fluid. The
carrier would evaporate, leaving a silicone film behind. Silicone
liquids are great lubricants for all substances and interfaces except
metal-to-metal, in which the metal texture pushes through the liquid.
This makes it ideal for a contact preparation because the silicone forms
a vapor barrier on the contacts, preventing oxidation. This also gives
the contact surfaces excellent conductivity when they connect with each
other. Silicone fluids are great for this purpose, also, because unlike
petroleum products, they do not attract dirt! And unlike petroleum
products, silicone fluid does not attack any plastics that I know of. If
I were HP, I'd probably want to use this for inkjet cartridges and
internal contacts myself. Silicone and petroleum liquids don't mix, and
probably form crystalline-like substances.
- Other non-silicone preparations are also used as contact preparations,
with and without carriers. These are usually petroleum distillates with
or without other chemicals. At least a couple of these have been revered
by technicians; one swore to me about a wonderful liquid, about which he
stressed that it should never be applied more than the most minimal
film. Hmmmmm.
What do you think, Bob?
S
shaq
Want a contact cleaner thatr actually works - better yet, improves the
connection.
I have used DeoxIT for over 10 years and the stuff is amazing. www.deoxit.com
Mike
R
Richard Steinfeld
Yup. A lot of people love DeoxIT (in electronics work, restoration ofshaq said:
antique gear, etc.).
I'll assume that it's great for the print cartridge contacts, but do you
know for sure that it's good for this particular application?
Thanks.
Richard
A
Arthur Entlich
My brother who is an EE, swears by Mobil 1 synthetic oil. He says it
prevents oxidation, and allows for very good metal to metal contact
while both lubricating and keeping the contacts clean, and it is very
inexpensive, and it doesn't seem to damage plastics over time as some
lubricants do. A bottle will be a lifetime purchase.
Art
prevents oxidation, and allows for very good metal to metal contact
while both lubricating and keeping the contacts clean, and it is very
inexpensive, and it doesn't seem to damage plastics over time as some
lubricants do. A bottle will be a lifetime purchase.
Art
S
shaq
Yes I would think so. Have used it on just about every computer
connection and works everytime. Video cards are very susceptible to
intermittents. Many of our office video cards need a wipe of DeoxIT
GOLD every so often to rejuvenate the connection. Bad video card
connections are our most common issues. They have great wipes for
these. Link: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2407/.f?sc=2&category=292
Mike
R
Richard Steinfeld
Arthur said:
That's quite interesting. I never thought of that. Electronics sprays
are a lot lighter than that. I'd be afraid of trying this with a
potentiometer.
A quart bottle of Mobil 1 would last probably 10 lifetimes in this
application. Further, the cost would be minimal, as opposed to the
electronics cleaners and cleaner/preservatives, which have risen in
price beyond the usual inflation to where they're priced like, well: ink!
Caig's products (De-oxIT) are priced like, well: OEM ink for a $35 printer.
I was an early user of Mobil 1 and respect the product (at least, if
through viscosity changes and The Big Merger with Exxon, it's actually
the same as it used to be). The one thing that I'm wondering about is
whether it attracts and holds dust the way that my familiar electronics
products don't. I don't understand why it would allow good metal-metal
contact when its primary purpose is to prevent metal-to-metal contact.
This baffles me. I'm not saying that he's wrong, just that I don't
understand this.
I'm interested in what he says about that.
Richard
B
Bob Headrick
Richard said:
I do not know the adhesive details, but they are generally heat staked in
place. The lube is on the exposed side.
The "lubricant" for the pads is to prevent the clean gold on the pads and
the pogo pins from welding themselves together when the cartridge is
installed into the printer. When this happens it can cause tearing of the
pads (destroying the cartridge) or bending the pogo pins (damaging the
printer). The amount of lube needed to prevent this is very small. If you
take your finger, rub your forehead once and then rub it on clean
interconnect pads you have about the right amount
.Regards,
Bob Headrick, MS MVP Printing/Imaging
A
Arthur Entlich
I don't know what deoxIT sells for, but Mobil 1 synthetic oil seems to
have similar qualities and is pretty inexpensive.
There used to be a product called "ElectroLube" on the market years ago.
It seems to be a gift from the electronic gods as a contact cleaner.
It coated the contacts with some form of silver.
Well, a year or so later, the damage reports started coming in. It
caused many plastics to become brittle and crack or craze, and the
silver began to corrode badly. It was ultimately a disaster.
Art
have similar qualities and is pretty inexpensive.
There used to be a product called "ElectroLube" on the market years ago.
It seems to be a gift from the electronic gods as a contact cleaner.
It coated the contacts with some form of silver.
Well, a year or so later, the damage reports started coming in. It
caused many plastics to become brittle and crack or craze, and the
silver began to corrode badly. It was ultimately a disaster.
Art
A
Arthur Entlich
I'll ask him about the dust and metal to metal issue and let you know
what his experience is.
Art
what his experience is.
Art
U
usa123abc
test
G
g
All fluids improve connection, at least temporarily. Stabilant is the
fluid that actually conducts.
Silicones are problematic with contacts. It can form hard insulation
with arching.
greg
G
g
Lubrication will provide better metal to metal contact , unless its
traveling 60 MPH. Much like using water on a wet stone, the lube helps
to
push corrosion and other particles out of the way so metal to metal
contact improves.
I might try some Mobile 1. My lube of choice right now is CRC 2-26.
The Home Depot was selling this dirt cheap a while back. It says right
on the can, improves
electrical properties.
g