firing up a SATA hard drive

  • Thread starter Thread starter attilathehun1
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attilathehun1

Ok, my negative, hostile, everything is bad friend, wtf is wrong with a
power supply tester that costs about 25 bucks? I used it on the DIY SATA
drive PC that I'm building and it fired up, finally! See, wtf was your idea
that the power supply tester was a waste of time and money. You're a waste of
valuable time and money.
Well, I'm not out of the soup yet. It fired up with the power supply tester
hooked up to the P1 mobo connector on the power supply and the fans all
started turning and the lights came on. Then I fired it up with the P1 hooked
up correctly to the mobo, and it fired up. I don't want to keep it on though.
I haven't installed the Zalman CNPS9700 LED cooler yet. I have a feeling
this power supply 400 watt isn't enough power, even though I don't have but 1
hard drive, 1 optical drive, and a floppy, with the Zalman cooler, and about
4, no 5 fans. The fifth fan is a giant fan that comes off with the side panel
door.
Ok, I'm going to install the Zalman cooler with the mobo already installed.
I'll wait about 1 hour before I start, and I want someone's positive response
on if I should install the Zalman with the mobo already in place, or take
the mobo back out and install the cooler that way. One note to know, I've
already installed the backplate and top-plate for the cooler, so I don't need
to take the mobo out again to install the device.
Any more help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
well I can see here that I don't need to take out the mobo, I just need to
install it and let it dry. Maybe no, I don't want it to dry yet? Should I let
it dry and then fire it up? I noticed if I let it dry it won't slide out of
place. Ok, lets go on and get this done.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
well I can see here that I don't need to take out the mobo, I just need to
install it and let it dry. Maybe no, I don't want it to dry yet? Should I let
it dry and then fire it up? I noticed if I let it dry it won't slide out of
place. Ok, lets go on and get this done.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...


If you *carefully* study the instructions of all parts¹ to your DIY
PC you wouldn't need to ask here.


parts¹

manual for the mobo
manual for the PSU
manual for the "CPU" etc.etc.

have fun reading all that or better yet take it to someone who
knows what he/hers does. Unless of course you've got money to
burn...

And this is the *best* help I can offer you...


Dragomir "who just recently build his DIY liquid cooling PC" Kollaric
 
Dragomir said:
If you *carefully* study the instructions of all parts¹ to your DIY
PC you wouldn't need to ask here.
Click to expand...

He obviously isn't capable of that. Besides which, anyone who would call
themselves "Attila The Hun" is clearly an idiot, and doesn't have a clue
about world history.
 
Bill said:
He obviously isn't capable of that. Besides which, anyone who would call
themselves "Attila The Hun" is clearly an idiot, and doesn't have a clue
about world history.
Click to expand...

Did I miss something in the saga of the re-born Attila the Hun but
I have the distinct feeling that he fired up the motherboard without
the Zalman HSF unmounted. Right...the historical Attila at least was
educated enough to know how to penetrate the Roman Empire without a
manual but that is simple compared to putting a computer together.

<:-}}
 
Ok all of you, I'm not talking to you, it's the other hostile greek. I like
greeks, and I don't have anything against them, I'm just using it so you can
ID him.
Ok, I'm at the point now that I have the Hard Drive LED light and there are
orange and white wires going to the front panel connectors. One is positive
and one negative, my guess is the orange is the positive and white the
negative. The only reason I'm asking here is because the, wtf do you call it,
CI connector that makes sure if you open the side panel without you knowing
its a safety device against rip-offs. Wait let me check, brb. Yeah, it's CI
and those wires are black and white. I figure black is usually negative. On
the power connector the wires are red and black and I figure that's red
positive and black negative, doy! What time is it? Doy!
Ok, I'm ready to put the thermal grease on the CPU chip and the Zalman
cooler, but I want a gopher to be here so I can do it, but it's 12:45 am now
and I can't find one handy.
Alright, I can see that there are some people here that do know the answers
better than I do, and I'm not that high on my horse to admit it.
Ok, maybe I'll wait for your response on the CPU cooler, no one gave a
correct response, and on the orange and white hard drive LED connector,
positive or negative?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok all of you, I'm not talking to you, it's the other hostile greek. I like
greeks, and I don't have anything against them, I'm just using it so you can
ID him.
Ok, I'm at the point now that I have the Hard Drive LED light and there are
orange and white wires going to the front panel connectors. One is positive
and one negative, my guess is the orange is the positive and white the
negative. The only reason I'm asking here is because the, wtf do you call it,
CI connector that makes sure if you open the side panel without you knowing
its a safety device against rip-offs. Wait let me check, brb. Yeah, it's CI
and those wires are black and white. I figure black is usually negative. On
the power connector the wires are red and black and I figure that's red
positive and black negative, doy! What time is it? Doy!
Ok, I'm ready to put the thermal grease on the CPU chip and the Zalman
cooler, but I want a gopher to be here so I can do it, but it's 12:45 am now
and I can't find one handy.
Alright, I can see that there are some people here that do know the answers
better than I do, and I'm not that high on my horse to admit it.
Ok, maybe I'll wait for your response on the CPU cooler, no one gave a
correct response, and on the orange and white hard drive LED connector,
positive or negative?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...


The answers to your questions have always been at your fingertips
and they are in the manuals and booklets that accompany the computer
case, the motherboard, etc. Reading the manuals, you might learn that
the polarity does not matter with the CI (Chassis Intrusion) switch.
Or what are the color is the "common". But there is no guarantee that
the wiring color schemes are the same from one person's kit to that
of another. The hard drive LED is many of the systems I wire are red
and black and not orange and white.

Be brave...read and gather as much information as possible and give
it your best shot. And, BTW, there are many different brands of HSF's
to choose and I do not use Zalman's. Sorry, can't help you there but
if I were installing one, I would follow the directions, look it over
very closely including checking the airflow of the fan, make a "dry"
install to make sure it looks right according to the instructions and
drawings, and then do the final installation.

Remember, any neophyte is entitled to make mistakes. The price of one
in building a first computer is roughly the same as having a pro do the
job and learning how to build the next one. Good luck.
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok all of you, I'm not talking to you, it's the other hostile greek. I like
greeks, and I don't have anything against them, I'm just using it so you can
ID him.
Ok, I'm at the point now that I have the Hard Drive LED light and there are
orange and white wires going to the front panel connectors. One is positive
and one negative, my guess is the orange is the positive and white the
negative. The only reason I'm asking here is because the, wtf do you call it,
CI connector that makes sure if you open the side panel without you knowing
its a safety device against rip-offs. Wait let me check, brb. Yeah, it's CI
and those wires are black and white. I figure black is usually negative. On
the power connector the wires are red and black and I figure that's red
positive and black negative, doy! What time is it? Doy!
Ok, I'm ready to put the thermal grease on the CPU chip and the Zalman
cooler, but I want a gopher to be here so I can do it, but it's 12:45 am now
and I can't find one handy.
Alright, I can see that there are some people here that do know the answers
better than I do, and I'm not that high on my horse to admit it.
Ok, maybe I'll wait for your response on the CPU cooler, no one gave a
correct response, and on the orange and white hard drive LED connector,
positive or negative?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...

(Computer case tower is a VA8000, for anyone keeping score at home.)

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Uploa...645-4d98-8125-5c4a99f98b0b/VA8000_en_0426.zip

You still aren't "getting with the program".

Your first priority, is to get the motherboard and hardware to respond.
Not to waste time with the Chassis Intrusion cable from the tower.

If a motherboard has provision for chassis intrusion, there are pins
on the motherboard, with a jumper across them. The jumper keeps the
chassis intrusion "safe", so it won't interfere with anything.

In other words, if you leave the chassis intrusion function alone
on the motherboard, then you'll never have to worry about it. If
you leave the "CI" cable dangling in the tower, and don't use it,
then no issues will occur. I never hook up Chassis Intrusion on
my cases, and always leave the jumpers and that header alone.

Remember what I told you before. The minimum to operate the computer,
is the two pin Power switch cable. You don't need to hook up a lot of
crap.

What we need to hear is "I can see the BIOS screen" from you. That
proves you'd done something right. And then it is worth spending time
on the trivial stuff. And to see the BIOS screen, you don't even need
to hook up a hard drive or an optical drive. You can save yourself a
lot of time, just hooking up the minimum amount of stuff that will
draw a picture on the screen.

What point is there in worrying about chassis intrusion, when nothing
is working ? What point is there in hooking up hard drives or optical
drives, if you haven't even seen a BIOS screen yet ? This is the hardware
you can hook up, to get some testing done.

Motherboard.
CPU and heatsink/fan.
Video card (or if the motherboard has a VGA connector, just use that one)
Computer monitor (to see if the BIOS will appear).
Power supply.
Power switch cable (goes to the PANEL header)
Computer case speaker (to listen for error beep codes).
Keyboard (to work in the BIOS).
Mouse (well, you hooked up the keyboard, so why not).

And how about saving some of the answers you get here, in a folder ?
If you refer back to the answers you are getting, then gradually,
as time goes by, you won't have to ask the same questions again.

If you cannot get the above list of hardware, to make the BIOS
screen appear, then no further wiring work need be done. If the
BIOS screen makes an appearance, then you can carry on with the
questions.

HTH,
Paul
 
Paul wrote:

And don't forget to include the memory, like I just did :-)

Motherboard.
CPU and heatsink/fan.
Memory. <-----------------------
Video card (or if the motherboard has a VGA connector, just use that one)
Computer monitor (to see if the BIOS will appear).
Power supply.
Power switch cable (goes to the PANEL header)
Computer case speaker (to listen for error beep codes).
Keyboard (to work in the BIOS).
Mouse (well, you hooked up the keyboard, so why not).

Paul
 
Is there another link you can send me to see how the Zalman is set-up? I
tried to look back pages and I can't seem to find it now on the old threads.
I used that link to that web-page to figure out which diagram I wanted to put
it at. I just tried the PC, by the main front panel power button that you
always use to start your PC with, and it starts up with the CI connector
plugged in. I think it must've been a bad chip or bad motherboard or both.
Because now it fires up each time I hit the hard boot button on the front
panel, the power button, wtf do you call it to make it PC?
Ok, if I don't see it, I'll try and go back and find it on the back pages.
Thanks, attilathehun1
-- PS wtf does the CI switch do? If you don't want to answer that, np.
attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
Is there another link you can send me to see how the Zalman is set-up? I
tried to look back pages and I can't seem to find it now on the old threads.
I used that link to that web-page to figure out which diagram I wanted to put
it at. I just tried the PC, by the main front panel power button that you
always use to start your PC with, and it starts up with the CI connector
plugged in. I think it must've been a bad chip or bad motherboard or both.
Because now it fires up each time I hit the hard boot button on the front
panel, the power button, wtf do you call it to make it PC?
Ok, if I don't see it, I'll try and go back and find it on the back pages.
Thanks, attilathehun1
-- PS wtf does the CI switch do? If you don't want to answer that, np.
attilathehun1
Click to expand...

There is something very wrong here. The CI switch is suppose to turn
off the computer when the appropriate door or panel of the computer case
is opened. Attaching the CI header to the motherboard is optional since
an "open" setting is the default setting. When the computer case is
opened, the CI switch closes (or "shorts"), activating the circuit to
kill the power to the motherboard.
 
Ok, when I plugged in the USB 2.0 #1 and USB 2.0 #2 connectors along with the
Front Panel Audio connector the PC wouldn't fire up. Maybe I need a better
power supply. I then un-hooked the audio connector and the USB 2.0s it still
wouldn't fire up. Not until I hooked up the power supply tester and then it
fired up again.
Ok, that's what I thought, that the CI connector was supposed to make it
unable to fire up when it's open on the side panel door. Maybe that's the
problem? If it isn't the problem, then when I hook up the Zalman cooler, no
way in hell is it going to fire up if power is the problem.
Ok, I'll give it another shot with the CI unhooked. Ok, it fired up, with
the motherboard power supply connector on, it also fired up without the mobo
power supply tester on. This is screwy. The power supply tester has an LED
screen and it beeps a bunch of times and LL comes up on it. I don't think all
is ok with it. The other readings I think are ok, but the LL is probably
something wrong.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
Ok, when I plugged in the USB 2.0 #1 and USB 2.0 #2 connectors along with the
Front Panel Audio connector the PC wouldn't fire up. Maybe I need a better
power supply. I then un-hooked the audio connector and the USB 2.0s it still
wouldn't fire up. Not until I hooked up the power supply tester and then it
fired up again.
Ok, that's what I thought, that the CI connector was supposed to make it
unable to fire up when it's open on the side panel door. Maybe that's the
problem? If it isn't the problem, then when I hook up the Zalman cooler, no
way in hell is it going to fire up if power is the problem.
Ok, I'll give it another shot with the CI unhooked. Ok, it fired up, with
the motherboard power supply connector on, it also fired up without the mobo
power supply tester on. This is screwy. The power supply tester has an LED
screen and it beeps a bunch of times and LL comes up on it. I don't think all
is ok with it. The other readings I think are ok, but the LL is probably
something wrong.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the laugh Dude, do you buy equipment that doesn't come
with instructions i.e. manuals? From your questions here, it reads
to me you got the parts for your DIY PC from a yank-yard or similar
place?

I bought:

CPU-cooler for liquid cooling
pump / container for the liquid was a DIY project
hoses and connectors
radiator

*AFTER* I read up a site catering to DIY "liquid-cooling" I
got all of the info's I needed *FIRST*, got to know the
pitfalls and what to look out for. I read the manual(s)
assembly instructions for each part, took notes, copied
important pages and then one Saturday, I put the thing
together. I'd never start a PC without a cooler on the CPU
for instance.

I'll keep reading your *adventures* for entertainment, until
the novelty will wear off and then I'll put such a score on
your post that I don't even see them.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...


Dragomir Kollaric
 
First off for the commie, kill a commie for your mommie. You fuk up. Ok, for
the rest, lets just say, wtf, ok, it's a problem that needs someone who has
been through this.
It fired up with the power supply tester. Now this tester is the most
expensive power supply tester that Fries had, $24.95, almost 30 bucks out the
door with the batteries, AAA 4 set.
So, I hook-up the tester and everything shows numbers, then I hook-up again
and it starts beeping and LL is showing in one window. I guess when I hook-up
the P1 mobo connector one way, it's ok, and when I hook it up the other way
it beeps and shows LL. When I pressed the power button after re-hooking it
up to the mobo, the P1 connector, it started up. When I hooked up the USB 2.0
#1 and USB 2.0 #2 and the ear mike, wtf hold on, Azalia and AC'97, I have the
Azalia hooked up and the AC'97 tied off onto the cable because there is only
one ear-mike connector on the mobo. After hooking those 3 cables up, it
wouldn't fire up. When I hooked them back up with the power supply unit on
it, it fired up again. The power supply tester, I mean. So, it fires up with
the power supply tester on it and it doesn't fire up even alone with the fire
supply tester on it. What do you think the problem is? I thought it could be
the power button, but why would it fire up before when I had the minimum
amount of devices hooked up on it, without the power supply tester hooked up?
This is a puzzle, and I would greatly appreciated any ideas on what it
could be.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
First off for the commie, kill a commie for your mommie. You fuk up. Ok,
for
the rest, lets just say, wtf, ok, it's a problem that needs someone who
has
been through this.
Click to expand...

This is a puzzle, and I would greatly appreciated any ideas on what it
could be.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...

How old a you? 10? Naa... even a 10 yo has better reading / reasoning
skills. You're an idiot troll.
 
Ok, so with all the so called " PC techs " no one has even a clue. So wtf do
you think a PC tech would say to me at a PC Store? I'll tell you, he would
say, I had to change your motherboard and CPU chip or at least the CPU chip
or your tower. I'm not going to bring it into a PC store. I think now, it's
either the tower or the actual motherboard. But, why would it fire up with
the power supply unit tester if it was the motherboard? Why would it fire up
without the power supply tester once or twice and then not fire up at all,
again?
No answers? I thought there were some PC techs here?
Ok, then stfu and mind your own business if you don't have a constructive
answer!
Anyone with a good clue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok, so with all the so called " PC techs " no one has even a clue. So wtf do
you think a PC tech would say to me at a PC Store? I'll tell you, he would
say, I had to change your motherboard and CPU chip or at least the CPU chip
or your tower. I'm not going to bring it into a PC store. I think now, it's
either the tower or the actual motherboard. But, why would it fire up with
the power supply unit tester if it was the motherboard? Why would it fire up
without the power supply tester once or twice and then not fire up at all,
again?
No answers? I thought there were some PC techs here?
Ok, then stfu and mind your own business if you don't have a constructive
answer!
Anyone with a good clue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...

Your attitude probably turns off a lot of prospective posters. Have you
tried a different power supply in case their is a bad wire or connection
in the cable that the power supply tester is able to ignore or fix?
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok, so with all the so called " PC techs " no one has even a clue. So wtf
do
you think a PC tech would say to me at a PC Store? I'll tell you, he would
say, I had to change your motherboard and CPU chip or at least the CPU
chip
or your tower. I'm not going to bring it into a PC store. I think now,
it's
either the tower or the actual motherboard. But, why would it fire up with
the power supply unit tester if it was the motherboard? Why would it fire
up
without the power supply tester once or twice and then not fire up at all,
again?
No answers? I thought there were some PC techs here?
Ok, then stfu and mind your own business if you don't have a constructive
answer!
Anyone with a good clue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...

You have an admirably humble and polite way of approaching people in seeking
their voluntary help; it's an object lesson to us all.

"...fuk up... wtf... wtf... so called "PC techs" no one has even a clue...
wtf... I thought there were some PC techs here?... stfu and mind your own
business..."

Foul-mouthed baby.
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok, so with all the so called " PC techs " no one has even a clue. So wtf
do
you think a PC tech would say to me at a PC Store? I'll tell you, he would
say, I had to change your motherboard and CPU chip or at least the CPU
chip
or your tower. I'm not going to bring it into a PC store. I think now,
it's
either the tower or the actual motherboard. But, why would it fire up with
the power supply unit tester if it was the motherboard? Why would it fire
up
without the power supply tester once or twice and then not fire up at all,
again?
No answers? I thought there were some PC techs here?
Ok, then stfu and mind your own business if you don't have a constructive
answer!
Anyone with a good clue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...

YOU are the clueless one. Go away idiot troll.
 
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