A
Andrew Haley
I have too, but uncoated paper doesn't produce such dense blacks or
saturated colours. That might well be OK for some things, of course.
Andrew.
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I have too, but uncoated paper doesn't produce such dense blacks or
saturated colours. That might well be OK for some things, of course.
Andrew.
A
Andrew Haley
In comp.periphs.printers rafe b said:Dot gain on artists' watercolor paper is enormous and (IMO) totally
unsuitable for detailed prints or images that need "snap."
Problem is, inket papers don't hold photographic detail without a
good, hard coating. The best Dmax and contrast also require optical
brighteners.
Right.
Viz., regular old Somerset Velvet sucked badly, but Somerset Velvet
"Photo Enhanced" worked quite nicely.
It might be that I've never seen "regular old" Somerset Velvet. I use
"Somerset Velvet for EPSON" on 24"x50' rolls which gives outstanding
results. There's a page at
http://www.inkjetart.com/news/archive/IJN_11-05-02.html called
"SOMERSET VELVET" FINE ART PAPERS: ELIMINATING THE CONFUSION
According to that page, "Somerset Velvet For EPSON (in rolls) - This
product is virtually the same product as Somerset Photo Enhanced
http://www.inkjetart.com/wc/somerset_enhanced.html ..."
.... and ...
"EPSON Velvet Fine Art Paper - This paper uses the original Somerset
Velvet paper base (from St. Cuthberts Mill), but the coating is
totally different, and this is done by Epson. This coating is somewhat
similar to the Hahnemuhle coatings, that are more on the surface and
tend to "flake" a little with abusive handling, but these coatings do
give slightly higher D-Max's, slightly higher resolutions, and higher
color saturation."
.... which answers the question, I think.
Andrew.
N
Nicholas O. Lindan
rafe b said:How old is your printer? [How good is your]Nicholas O. Lindan said:And I tried it and the results were great, dot gain was
enormous and it lost that ink-jet look.
visual acuity?
Old, very good.
Seriously, on the R800/R1800, dots are not
observable without a loupe.
So who looks at pictures without a loupe ...
... if you're making dreamy, soft-focus,
high-key stuff, [water color paper] just
might be the ticket.
I didn't think that anyone asking for 'water color
paper' would be trying to do anything else. But
who knows, a super-sharp picture of precision
gearing might look cool on Arches?
M
Marvin
I've printed onto regular water color paper with HP inkjets. It worked well.Mark said:Does Epson no longer make the Water Color paper?
I'm looking for something with more texture than the Enhanced Matte paper to
print out some of my LF images. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mark
M
Marvin
tomm42 said:You can try it but the results are very soft as standard WC paper has
no coating to restrict the bleed of the ink.
I've used artists' paper when I wanted a water color effect. The bleeding is part of the
effect - it happens with water color paint.
That said I have seen some
T
Todd Maurer
Arches Infinity is beautify, but it burnishes at the brush of..well a brush.
Perhaps not that bad, but almost. Handling it is almost worse than a
Cibachrome print.
Todd
Perhaps not that bad, but almost. Handling it is almost worse than a
Cibachrome print.
Todd
A
Ace
Mark
Did you look at " inkjetart.com " to see what they have?
Bob AZ
Did you look at " inkjetart.com " to see what they have?
Bob AZ
A
Arthur Entlich
I have tried dozens of different water color and printmaker papers from
our local art store looking for a less costly "holy grail" of "art
paper" that will work well with Epson printers.
To date, I only found one that was even close to acceptable in regard to
maintaining color values and edge detail, and it was one I picked up on
a whim at a liquidation shop. I have no idea what it really is,
although it does have a nice deckled edge. None of the others were able
to hold the detail or color, no matter how much ink was applied.
However, I should mention I was working with dye inks.
As others have stated, generally, dye inks, at least, need a specially
coated surface to retain the detail and bright colors.
Are you using a dye ink or pigment ink printer? ANd which brand
watercolor paper are you purchasing, if it is branded?
Art
our local art store looking for a less costly "holy grail" of "art
paper" that will work well with Epson printers.
To date, I only found one that was even close to acceptable in regard to
maintaining color values and edge detail, and it was one I picked up on
a whim at a liquidation shop. I have no idea what it really is,
although it does have a nice deckled edge. None of the others were able
to hold the detail or color, no matter how much ink was applied.
However, I should mention I was working with dye inks.
As others have stated, generally, dye inks, at least, need a specially
coated surface to retain the detail and bright colors.
Are you using a dye ink or pigment ink printer? ANd which brand
watercolor paper are you purchasing, if it is branded?
Art
A
Arthur Entlich
Even with the desire to make an image with "watercolor" softness, there
is a certain amount of definition, especially edge definition required.
Watercolor images aren't necessarily "out of focus". Further,
sometimes a person is just after a certain feel or look of texture
without wishing to degrade the colors and detail. That's why inkjet
coated watercolor art papers are produced.
I have seen absolutely beautifully produced artwork turn to mush on an
uncoated watercolor paper, and I have also seen it beautifully
reproduced on coated watercolor paper.
I think it is a misnomer that watercolor equals dull undefined color and
no detail.
Art
is a certain amount of definition, especially edge definition required.
Watercolor images aren't necessarily "out of focus". Further,
sometimes a person is just after a certain feel or look of texture
without wishing to degrade the colors and detail. That's why inkjet
coated watercolor art papers are produced.
I have seen absolutely beautifully produced artwork turn to mush on an
uncoated watercolor paper, and I have also seen it beautifully
reproduced on coated watercolor paper.
I think it is a misnomer that watercolor equals dull undefined color and
no detail.
Art
A
Arthur Entlich
No quite in the same way. I am a watercolor artist as well as a digital
one. Watercolor can certainly be made to be very soft with ill defined
edges, but most watercolor artists use both the potential softness and
sharp edges possible to create differences of texture and distance,
using softer definition for distant objects, fog, or mist, or for
gradient areas, while defining edges for closer objects, texture and
other elements.
Using uncoated watercolor paper just provides an overall out of focus
look that is equally so, and that is rarely how a watercolor image
looks. Given the choice, watercolor artists getting their work
reproduced will request a inkjet coated paper for the "giclee" prints.
Art
one. Watercolor can certainly be made to be very soft with ill defined
edges, but most watercolor artists use both the potential softness and
sharp edges possible to create differences of texture and distance,
using softer definition for distant objects, fog, or mist, or for
gradient areas, while defining edges for closer objects, texture and
other elements.
Using uncoated watercolor paper just provides an overall out of focus
look that is equally so, and that is rarely how a watercolor image
looks. Given the choice, watercolor artists getting their work
reproduced will request a inkjet coated paper for the "giclee" prints.
Art
M
Marvin
Arthur said:I have tried dozens of different water color and printmaker papers from
our local art store looking for a less costly "holy grail" of "art
paper" that will work well with Epson printers.
To date, I only found one that was even close to acceptable in regard to
maintaining color values and edge detail, and it was one I picked up on
a whim at a liquidation shop.
Why use watercolor papers when you don't want a watercolor effect?. Paints bleed on water
color paper. It is not not meant to be coated, nor does the artist prime it. Canvases
are primed.
A
Arthur Entlich
That is the one complaint with coated art papers. They tend to be very
fragile in terms of maintaining the surface both before printing and
afterwards.
There are a few newer papers on the market, in small release, that have
the mordants and dot gain reducers saturated through the paper added to
the "pulp" while the paper is being made. It apparently works quite
well for many inkjet applications.
Art
fragile in terms of maintaining the surface both before printing and
afterwards.
There are a few newer papers on the market, in small release, that have
the mordants and dot gain reducers saturated through the paper added to
the "pulp" while the paper is being made. It apparently works quite
well for many inkjet applications.
Art
N
nosredna
How about printing on watercolor paper, then doing some sharper touches
by hand, with a brush, after the printing?
by hand, with a brush, after the printing?
A
Arthur Entlich
I'll preface this with saying my experience is with dye inkjet printing,
and pigment ink results may differ.
I have some training in watercolor (as well as acrylics and oil and
inks), and used to paint in watercolor a fair amount prior to going
heavily digital. The process of watercolor painting is both defining
edges and using the water to move the colorant and blend it. But
blending is not the same as bleeding. That is why attempts to create a
watercolor look with Photoshop filters and using "sloppy" paper really
doesn't make it. Also, watercolor doesn't mute/muddy colors the way a
"sloppy" paper does. In watercolor the water allows for more
transparency of the color, allowing the paper white to shine through.
Some watercolors have very high color values. With standard watercolor
paper and inkjet printing, the maximum density is highly limited, and
doesn't allow for the shadow detail afforded watercolor painting. The
main point is that watercolor paints don't penetrate the paper very
much, while inkjet inks on uncoated paper do just that, sink right in,
so the paper surface ends up the topmost surface (as the ink sinks
"through" it, while with watercolor, the paint colorants are the topmost
surface.
I sometimes scan my watercolor images and print them, and the only way
they create the values and definition in the original image is to print
them on a inkjet specialized coated paper.
Art
and pigment ink results may differ.
I have some training in watercolor (as well as acrylics and oil and
inks), and used to paint in watercolor a fair amount prior to going
heavily digital. The process of watercolor painting is both defining
edges and using the water to move the colorant and blend it. But
blending is not the same as bleeding. That is why attempts to create a
watercolor look with Photoshop filters and using "sloppy" paper really
doesn't make it. Also, watercolor doesn't mute/muddy colors the way a
"sloppy" paper does. In watercolor the water allows for more
transparency of the color, allowing the paper white to shine through.
Some watercolors have very high color values. With standard watercolor
paper and inkjet printing, the maximum density is highly limited, and
doesn't allow for the shadow detail afforded watercolor painting. The
main point is that watercolor paints don't penetrate the paper very
much, while inkjet inks on uncoated paper do just that, sink right in,
so the paper surface ends up the topmost surface (as the ink sinks
"through" it, while with watercolor, the paint colorants are the topmost
surface.
I sometimes scan my watercolor images and print them, and the only way
they create the values and definition in the original image is to print
them on a inkjet specialized coated paper.
Art
A
Arthur Entlich
It would be interesting, but not the same. Also, I have tried reworking
inkjet prints with a brush and I find the surface and the colors change
when they are worked on. What I have done, and the results were
interesting is taking an image and printing it on a coated surface, and
then using a wet brush to move the colorants around to build them up or
wash them further. The paper doesn't always tolerate it well... the
inkjet ink seems to change the absorbency of the paper (makes it more
absorbent of water). Often watercolor paper is sized (coated with a
glue or starch) prior to use to decrease the absorbency to water and
stiffen the paper.
Art
inkjet prints with a brush and I find the surface and the colors change
when they are worked on. What I have done, and the results were
interesting is taking an image and printing it on a coated surface, and
then using a wet brush to move the colorants around to build them up or
wash them further. The paper doesn't always tolerate it well... the
inkjet ink seems to change the absorbency of the paper (makes it more
absorbent of water). Often watercolor paper is sized (coated with a
glue or starch) prior to use to decrease the absorbency to water and
stiffen the paper.
Art
N
Nicholas O. Lindan
Arthur Entlich said:I sometimes scan my watercolor images and print them, and the only way
they create the values and definition in the original image is to print
them on a inkjet specialized coated paper.
Yup, ink-jet on watercolor paper creates an 'ink-jet on watercolor' look.
The good or bad of it is up to the printer: sometimes it works, sometimes
it doesn't. Profound, n'est ce pas?
Weren't the first 'giclee' prints - early 90's - done on watercolor?
attempts to create a watercolor look with Photoshop ... really
[don't] make it
Have you tried 'Fractal Design Painter'? I used to play around with
it, never quite got the hang of using a pen tablet instead of a brush.
I think it does great at 'water-color-type-things'; great fun to play with.
A
Arthur Entlich
Yes, Fractal Painter, now owned by Corel and I believe now called "Corel
Painter", is actually pretty good at creating digital versions of
traditional media, with the same look and feel of those media,
especially with a pressure sensitive pen. I think it is one of the
better executed "simulation" products. I really like the pallets and
they also have some very interesting filters.
Art
Painter", is actually pretty good at creating digital versions of
traditional media, with the same look and feel of those media,
especially with a pressure sensitive pen. I think it is one of the
better executed "simulation" products. I really like the pallets and
they also have some very interesting filters.
Art
I sometimes scan my watercolor images and print them, and the only way
they create the values and definition in the original image is to print
them on a inkjet specialized coated paper.
Yup, ink-jet on watercolor paper creates an 'ink-jet on watercolor' look.
The good or bad of it is up to the printer: sometimes it works, sometimes
it doesn't. Profound, n'est ce pas?
Weren't the first 'giclee' prints - early 90's - done on watercolor?
attempts to create a watercolor look with Photoshop ... really
[don't] make it
Have you tried 'Fractal Design Painter'? I used to play around with
it, never quite got the hang of using a pen tablet instead of a brush.
I think it does great at 'water-color-type-things'; great fun to play with.