C
Colin D
Yes, you probably are. But I see from another post of yours in thisNeil said:Having designed and built many "good amplifiers" over the years, I'm
comfortable with what I know about them.
thread that you are a long-time guitar player/musician. That's fine,
but that's the field where you can claim to be professional, not
electronics. Building and using amplifiers for professional performance
does not make you a professional in electronic design, any more than I,
as a professionally trained electronics person can claim to be a pro
musician - in fact I can't play any instrument.
Then, what do you think the purpose of feedback might be?
What sort of feedback do you mean? There is positive feedback, useful
for making oscillators, and there is negative feedback, useful for
reducing distortion and impedance. Further, feedback by itself has
nothing to do with damping factor. There are many applications using
negative feedback that do so for other reasons than damping. Damping is
of concern only when ringing or overshoot might be a problem, whether
electronic ringing as in some filter circuitry, or mechanical as in
speakers. Negative feedback applied around one or more stages of
amplification does three things; it reduces the overall gain of the
circuit, it reduces distortion from the included stages, and it lowers
the impedance of the output stage. Note that it does not affect the
load impedance the circuit is designed to drive; it lowers the 'internal
impedance' of the output stage.
Tell that to Altec, Leslie and many others who have done exactly that for
a very long time. With tube amps.
(much snipped)
Your assertion, above, is that "a 100-*WATT* signal requires the cable to
carry 25 amps r.m.s. which is a lot for lamp cord." How did you arrive at
that load factor independent of voltage?
Because knowing voltage is not necessary to calculate current from power
and resistance figures. See Ohm's Law below.
But, here, I have to admit to a math error. It's a long time since I
dealt with Ohm's Law at the basic level, and I overlooked that
calculating the current required to deliver 100 watts into 4 ohms uses
the formula I=[(W/R)^0.5]. I left off the square root, so the real
current for 100 watts into 4 ohms is 5 amperes, not 25. (hides face in
shame). {:-(
However (feeling a bit brighter), this does not alter the argument
around damping factor, since the cable resistance is what's important,
not the current capacity.
Apparently, you think that 25A @
120V = 25A @ 12V. Since you're into "experiments", here's an easy one for
you: for which one would you let your body complete the circuit? Try them
both, and decide. ;-)
Of course I don't think that 25A @ 120V = 25A @ 12V, and that isn't what
I said. Reading your last paragraph, I get the feeling you aren't too
familiar with Ohm's law. Here is a link that explains it all:
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
I hope you find it useful.
I think we can end it here, without prolonging the discussion. II think we have pretty different ideas about what constitutes a "good
amplifier". Since this discussion is way OT here, why not drop over to,
say, rec.audio.pro and make such claims. I'm sure that many will be glad
to sort out your notions.
realize now that you are talking about guitar amplifiers and similar,
which are somewhat different animals than high-end amplifiers in sound
reproduction systems playing CD's or vinyl or whatever, which is where I
an coming from.
Regards,
Colin D