Don, Noons: TIF v. JPG. More samples.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Raphael Bustin
  • Start date Start date
R

Raphael Bustin

Methodology:

1. Start with a single 4000 dpi film scan (Nikon LS-8000)
of a 35 mm slide.

2. Crop a 1000 x 1000 section of overall scan. Overall
scan is around 20 million pixels, the crop is exactly
1 million pixels.

3. Save this crop as a TIF file.

4. Save the same crop as a high-quality JPG file.

5. Load the JPG file (from Step 4) into Photoshop, make
it the bottom layer of a new (1000 x 1000) image.

6. Load the TIF file (from Step 3) into Photoshop, make
it the 2nd layer.

7. From this composite take a 125 x 125 pixel crop,
upsample 8x to 1000 x 1000 pixels. Here it is:

http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jpg_vs_tif/jpg_on_bottom_crop1_8x.tif
(7,680,452 bytes)

8. From this composite, take a 250 x 250 pixel crop,
upsample 4x to 1000 x 1000 pixels. Here it is:

http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jpg_vs_tif/jpg_on_bottom_crop2_4x.tif
(8,497,284 bytes)

You will need a viewer or editor that can handle multi-layer TIFs.

My contention: without my explanation or the explicit
labeling, you would not know which layer came from the
JPG or which layer came from the TIF.

I don't know how to make the point any more simply.
The only lossy step above is the JPG save in Step 4.

I believe this disproves Mr. Noon's remark about the effects
of upsampling a JPG. I've provided a sample at 4x
and another at 8x.

I've said consistently that JPG is not appropriate for works-in-
progress, so upsampling a JPG is not something I'd normally
do or strongly defend.

Even so, I can observe NO difference between the bottom
two layers of either file.

Once again, if you don't like my methodology, feel free to
demonstrate your own.

I will address reasonable complaints but have no tolerance
for obfuscation and red herrings. If this was not the point
you wished to defend, please state what *is" and/or
post examples.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com
 
Raphael said:
Methodology:

1. Start with a single 4000 dpi film scan (Nikon LS-8000)
of a 35 mm slide.

2. Crop a 1000 x 1000 section of overall scan. Overall
scan is around 20 million pixels, the crop is exactly
1 million pixels.

3. Save this crop as a TIF file.

4. Save the same crop as a high-quality JPG file.

5. Load the JPG file (from Step 4) into Photoshop, make
it the bottom layer of a new (1000 x 1000) image.

6. Load the TIF file (from Step 3) into Photoshop, make
it the 2nd layer.

7. From this composite take a 125 x 125 pixel crop,
upsample 8x to 1000 x 1000 pixels. Here it is:

http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jpg_vs_tif/jpg_on_bottom_crop1_8x.tif
(7,680,452 bytes)

8. From this composite, take a 250 x 250 pixel crop,
upsample 4x to 1000 x 1000 pixels. Here it is:

http://www.terrapinphoto.com/jpg_vs_tif/jpg_on_bottom_crop2_4x.tif
(8,497,284 bytes)

You will need a viewer or editor that can handle multi-layer TIFs.

My contention: without my explanation or the explicit
labeling, you would not know which layer came from the
JPG or which layer came from the TIF.

I don't know how to make the point any more simply.
The only lossy step above is the JPG save in Step 4.

I believe this disproves Mr. Noon's remark about the effects
of upsampling a JPG. I've provided a sample at 4x
and another at 8x.

I've said consistently that JPG is not appropriate for works-in-
progress, so upsampling a JPG is not something I'd normally
do or strongly defend.

Even so, I can observe NO difference between the bottom
two layers of either file.

Once again, if you don't like my methodology, feel free to
demonstrate your own.

I will address reasonable complaints but have no tolerance
for obfuscation and red herrings. If this was not the point
you wished to defend, please state what *is" and/or
post examples.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com

Fighting this one is like trying to tell people that their $500 speaker
cables do no better then a $1 worth of lamp cord, true but no matter
what the evidence they will claim you need the $500 speaker cables.

This issue of jpeg vs. tiff keeps coming up and there are always people
who claim jpeg ruins an image to the point that it is almost worthless,
ok for snapshots I believe I read in one of the threads. The true is
that jpeg vs. tiff has very little to do with the quality of the image
and a good jpeg image will look far better then a average tiff image.

I offer a rather extreme case of this and a challenge, here is a 20MP
jpeg image that is only 3.5 MB in size, clearly it has been compressed
a lot, and yet I would bet this is a far sharper image then just about
any of the tiffs that people are so passionate about needing.
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/4000ppi.jpg

What I find really funny are the people who look at a crappy soft scan
and then claim it does not mean anything because it is a jpeg and not a
tiff, as if a tiff would help the image.

A good image is a good image and saving as jpeg will not ruin it, a
poor image is a poor image and saving it as a tiff is not going help it
get any better.

For me I worry about getting the good clean image and not so much about
how I save it.

Scott.
 
Impressive scan. I can see the JPEG compression at high magnification,
but as you say, it does not matter for the quality of the image.
Remarkably little grain for such a sharp scan. What kind of film was
this?
 
Impressive scan. I can see the JPEG compression at high magnification,
but as you say, it does not matter for the quality of the image.
Remarkably little grain for such a sharp scan. What kind of film was
this?


It's an ancient slide taken in 1970 with a Miranda Sensomat.
I can't even tell you what lens, but I can tell you that I never
owned any really fine lenses for that camera. The 50mm
Soligor that it came with was probably the best of the lot,
and quite possibly what I used for this shot.

The film was probably Agfachrome.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com
 
Raphael said:
It's an ancient slide taken in 1970 with a Miranda Sensomat.
I can't even tell you what lens, but I can tell you that I never
owned any really fine lenses for that camera. The 50mm
Soligor that it came with was probably the best of the lot,
and quite possibly what I used for this shot.

The film was probably Agfachrome.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com

He might be talking about my image, where I put up the full thing to
show just what you can do with a 3.5 MB sized file.
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/4000ppi.jpg
In my image the quality level was something like 8 out of 12 using
Photoshop, lower then I ever use unless the image is getting posted on
the Internet.

I put up the image to shot that the image matter much more then the
file format it is saved in. The way people talk you get the impression
that a jpeg file must look like crap.

This is a test I did at quality level 12, the highest in Photoshop,
here is the overview of the image
http://www.sewcon.com/tiff_vs_jpeg/overview.jpg 220KB
This is the crop from the image, one side has been left as a 16 bit
tiff the other side was saved as a jpeg and then brought into this
image. It is pretty hard to do any edit to the image that will make
one side look different from the other.
http://www.sewcon.com/tiff_vs_jpeg/compare.tif 2.8 MB

This is the full image saved at less then quality 12, I think I used
10. I find level 10 to be a fairly good level to save images in, keeps
them from getting too large but they suffer very little from jpeg
artifacts.
http://www.sewcon.com/tiff_vs_jpeg/fullimage_high_compress.jpg 13.5 MB

The full image as a 16bit/color tiff takes over 350 MB the same image
as a highest quality jpeg takes 30MB, there is no practical difference
between the two images.

I have no problem with people wishing to archive their scans as 16
bit/color tiffs if they wish. What I have a problem with are people
who try to get others to believe that compressing to the jpeg format
reduces quality so much that that image will be clearly lower quality.
I have run in to a number of people who claim you can't evaluate an
image from a scanner if it has been saved as a jpeg.

Scott
 
I have no problem with people wishing to archive their scans as 16
bit/color tiffs if they wish. What I have a problem with are people
who try to get others to believe that compressing to the jpeg format
reduces quality so much that that image will be clearly lower quality.
I have run in to a number of people who claim you can't evaluate an
image from a scanner if it has been saved as a jpeg.


Interesting how the "16-bit" controversy compares with the
"JPG controversy." In Don's argument, the two collide
and coalesce.

There are losses incurred in JPG compression. For sure.
And there is (one would hope) more useful information
in a 16-bit image file than in an 8-bit file.

But in each case the differences are far less than what
Don and Noons claim. I'd say that with proper use, the
losses are minimal.

Any claim that JPG (or 8-bit vs 16-bit) makes a "night and
day" difference *in general* is impossible to support --
logically, physically, or empirically.

In fact, Don claims that JPG losses are universal, so all
it takes to kill that idea is one counter-example. Bzzt.

Regarding the 8-bit vs 16-bit controversy, here's a link
to the learned debates on Don Margulis' Colortheory
forum. Transcripts can be found by digging here:

<http://www.ledet.com/margulis/ACT_postings/ACT.htm>


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com
 
Raphael said:
Interesting how the "16-bit" controversy compares with the
"JPG controversy." In Don's argument, the two collide
and coalesce.

There are losses incurred in JPG compression. For sure.
And there is (one would hope) more useful information
in a 16-bit image file than in an 8-bit file.

But in each case the differences are far less than what
Don and Noons claim. I'd say that with proper use, the
losses are minimal.

Any claim that JPG (or 8-bit vs 16-bit) makes a "night and
day" difference *in general* is impossible to support --
logically, physically, or empirically.

In fact, Don claims that JPG losses are universal, so all
it takes to kill that idea is one counter-example. Bzzt.

Regarding the 8-bit vs 16-bit controversy, here's a link
to the learned debates on Don Margulis' Colortheory
forum. Transcripts can be found by digging here:

I did this image just for fun, does not really prove anything I just
wanted to see how few bits I could use.
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/bw5bit.tif 1.4 MB

It uses only 5 bits, check out the histogram it is a hoot.

For color I needed a lot more bits, 6.
http://www.sewcon.com/temp/6bit.tif

In reality 6 bit is far too few bits to be happy with, but it does show
what is possible with a bit of care.

I should note that images viewed on the computer screen need far more
bits of depth then images that are printed.

Scott
 
Fighting this one is like trying to tell people that their $500 speaker
cables do no better then a $1 worth of lamp cord, true but no matter
what the evidence they will claim you need the $500 speaker cables.
Aaahh, bad example there. Large, fat, expensive, low-resistance speaker
cable *do* matter, if you are running a high-end amplifier/speakers
combo.

The reason is that good amplifiers have what is called a damping factor,
or ratio. They are usually designed to feed a 4 to 16-ohm speaker load,
but the 'looking backwards' impedance of the output stage is of the
order of 0.1 ohms or less. Why is this important? because the speakers
see it as a virtual short-circuit, and the effect of this is to heavily
damp the overshoot and ringing of the speaker cone with transients and
sharp-fronted waveforms, as well as speaker resonance. Uncontrolled
overshoot and ringing colors the sound, and is effectively distortion.

The control over this effect by the amplifier depends on the 'looking
backwards' impedance providing an effective short from the speaker's
point of view. However, the speaker cabling is in series with the
amplifier impedance, so the cable resistance has to be very low. If
your piece of lamp cord has a resistance of, say, an ohm, then the
damping factor falls from 40 to less than 4, and now the speaker can
overshoot.

Even a cable of 0.1 ohm will halve the damping factor, so the aim is to
have no more than 0.05 or so ohms in the cable, which basically means
fat cables as short as possible.

A relatively new approach to this overshoot/resonance problem is to
place the final amplifier unit actually inside the speaker enclosure,
allowing very short wires to the speakers, and driving the amplifier
unit with a signal from the pre-amplifier via matched impedance cables.

Also, consider that a 4-ohm speaker driven with a 100-watt signal
requires the cable to carry 25 amps r.m.s. which is a lot for lamp cord.

Colin D.
 
Recently said:
Aaahh, bad example there. Large, fat, expensive, low-resistance
speaker cable *do* matter, if you are running a high-end
amplifier/speakers combo.
Oh, please.
The reason is that good amplifiers have what is called a damping
factor, or ratio.
ALL amplifiers have a damping factor. It is a fundamental aspect of
electronic amplification and output impedance.
They are usually designed to feed a 4 to 16-ohm
speaker load, but the 'looking backwards' impedance of the output
stage is of the order of 0.1 ohms or less.
This very much depends on the design of the amplifier's output stage. for
example, amplifiers with transformer output stages (many of which would
qualify as "good amplifiers") will not have an output impedance of 0.1
Ohms. Further, very few transistor amplifiers lack resisters following the
output transistors (I don't know of any audio amps that lack them).
Why is this important?
because the speakers see it as a virtual short-circuit, and the
effect of this is to heavily damp the overshoot and ringing of the
speaker cone with transients and sharp-fronted waveforms, as well as
speaker resonance. Uncontrolled overshoot and ringing colors the
sound, and is effectively distortion.
Hmmm. I disagree. The main issue here is the physical mass of the cone and
voice coil of the speaker, because they can not be accelerated instantly,
making it impossible to accurately reproduce a square wave, for example.
Further, overshoot and ringing are fundamental qualities of electronic
amplification, so well-damped *pre-amplifier* circuits are typically
employed to reduce the problem before it gets to the output stage.
The control over this effect by the amplifier depends on the 'looking
backwards' impedance providing an effective short from the speaker's
point of view. However, the speaker cabling is in series with the
amplifier impedance, so the cable resistance has to be very low. If
your piece of lamp cord has a resistance of, say, an ohm, then the
damping factor falls from 40 to less than 4, and now the speaker can
overshoot.
Perhaps you should take a look at typical wire resistances. You won't find
any *lamp cord* shorter than a couple hundred feet with a resistance of
one Ohm. The reason is that *lamp cord* is typically >= 18 gauge stranded
copper wire. Look up the resistance of that if you're curious.
Even a cable of 0.1 ohm will halve the damping factor, so the aim is
to have no more than 0.05 or so ohms in the cable, which basically
means fat cables as short as possible.
Wrong... The resistance of the speaker's voice coil is far greater than
any speaker cable (or lamp cord) one is likely to buy. The impact of
speaker cables with lengths of less than 20 ft. on the damping factor of
the amplifier will be practically immeasurable, and certainly far less
than the imperfections in even the best speaker systems. In short, you'll
never hear it.
A relatively new approach to this overshoot/resonance problem is to
place the final amplifier unit actually inside the speaker enclosure,
allowing very short wires to the speakers, and driving the amplifier
unit with a signal from the pre-amplifier via matched impedance
cables.
Yep. This "new" approach has only been done for the last eighty years or
so. ;-)
Also, consider that a 4-ohm speaker driven with a 100-watt signal
requires the cable to carry 25 amps r.m.s. which is a lot for lamp
cord.
Wrong, once again. 18 guage lamp cord can carry as much as 10 amps *at 120
Volts*, which is *1200 Watts* (though this is not a recommended loading).
Very few audio amplifiers, and even fewer speakers have 120 Volt output
circuits, with many falling in the 10 to 25 Volt range. You do the math to
figure the current @ 100 Watts.

Neil
(with > 40 years of designing pro audio systems)
(and some *really expensive* lamp cord, er, "speaker cables" to sell you
if you still disagree) ;-)
 
Neil Gould said:
Oh, please.

Really. However, there _is_ reason to buy the ultra-expensive guitar cables
with gold jacks: normal guitar cables are so shoddily made that they are
likely to fail.

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan
 
Recently said:
Really. However, there _is_ reason to buy the ultra-expensive guitar
cables with gold jacks: normal guitar cables are so shoddily made
that they are likely to fail.
Almost true, David. ;-)

It doesn't really matter whether the jacks are gold (most guitar and amp
sockets aren't), but it does matter that they have good connections and
strain relief. I use decently sheilded cable and Neutrix connectors that I
modify to have better mechanical connection by drilling a hole in the
mounting points. The cable deteriorates before the jacks fail! ;-)

Neil
 
Neil Gould said:
Almost true, David. ;-)

Well, what I said was perfectly true if you don't misread it; the
ultra-expensive cables I was referring to do have gold jacks, and have no
better performance than cheap cables. But they fail at a much lower
rate/much higher MTBF.
It doesn't really matter whether the jacks are gold (most guitar and amp
sockets aren't), but it does matter that they have good connections and
strain relief. I use decently sheilded cable and Neutrix connectors that I
modify to have better mechanical connection by drilling a hole in the
mounting points. The cable deteriorates before the jacks fail! ;-)

I've got better things to do than futz with guitar cables. Of course, I have
things easier than most electrified guitarists: I don't use any effectors so
there's only one cable between my guitar and the amp. Folks with effectors
have a lot of points for things to fail (so cheap cables are really
frightening), and using expensive cables would get really painful really
fast.

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan
 
Neil said:
Oh, please.

ALL amplifiers have a damping factor. It is a fundamental aspect of
electronic amplification and output impedance.

For your >40 years of experience, you don't come across as knowing much
about amplifiers. Damping factor has nothing to do with amplification
per se. It is the ratio of the design load impedance vs the 'looking
backward' impedance, that is, if you treated the output stage as an
input stage and measured the apparent input impedance. For a good
amplifier, the ratio should be about 40 or more.
This very much depends on the design of the amplifier's output stage. for
example, amplifiers with transformer output stages (many of which would
qualify as "good amplifiers") will not have an output impedance of 0.1
Ohms. Further, very few transistor amplifiers lack resisters following the
output transistors (I don't know of any audio amps that lack them).

To clarify, a 'good' amplifier will not only have low distortion at
rated output, but will also, by virtue of a high damping factor, give
good control of speaker performance. There are plenty of amplifiers,
particularly tetrode or pentode valve amplifiers that exhibit good
distortion characteristics when operated into a resistive dummy load,
but do not give good results when feeding speakers. On the other hand,
triode tube amplifiers with 20dB or greater feedback, even though
transformer-coupled, exhibit a good damping factor, though they
generally are rather low-powered.
Hmmm. I disagree. The main issue here is the physical mass of the cone and
voice coil of the speaker, because they can not be accelerated instantly,
making it impossible to accurately reproduce a square wave, for example.
Further, overshoot and ringing are fundamental qualities of electronic
amplification, so well-damped *pre-amplifier* circuits are typically
employed to reduce the problem before it gets to the output stage.

It is precisely the physical mass and suspension of the voice coil/cone
assembly that causes overshoot and resonance. A high damping factor
aids the acceleration of the cone assembly, as the full output waveform
is available to drive the speakers. The damping factor can be regarded
as resistance in series with the output, and a voltage-divider effect
occurs with low factors, just like the internal resistance of a battery
causes a lower voltage output when loaded. When the cone assembly is
moving, back emf is generated, and if that emf sees a short circuit,
which it does when the driving signal stops, the current flowing as a
result of the voltage generated will cause heavy damping or braking of
the cone movement. This is the principle behind a high damping factor,
and indeed is the very reason it is called the damping factor, because
it damps, or supresses, unwanted cone movements.

Yes, speakers find it difficult to reproduce a square wave, but here is
a simple experiment you can try to verify what I am saying. Set up an
amplifier and speaker ( a good speaker) driven with a suitable square
wave, and then set up a double-beam or double-trace oscilloscope with
one channel connected across the voice coil at the voice coil terminals,
and the other channel connected to the amplifier output terminals at the
output terminals. Use a short piece of cable to hook up the speaker.
Observe the waveforms, which will be practically identical. Now insert
a resistor of about five ohms, and capable of dissipating whatever power
you are driving the speaker with, say 1- or 2-watts, in series with the
speaker cable, so the resistor is between the scope leads, and again
observe the waveforms. The channel connected across the speaker will
show reduced amplitude because of the series resistor, so increase the
gain on that channel. You should see ringing on the speaker waveform
that is not present on the output terminal waveform.

Ringing in pre-amplifiers is generally caused by high- and low-pass
filter circuits used for tone control in equalizers, and has nothing to
do with the mechanical ringing in speakers due to cone mass. Of course
filter circuits have to have ringing controlled in order to maintain
signal integrity, but that is a different matter.
Perhaps you should take a look at typical wire resistances. You won't find
any *lamp cord* shorter than a couple hundred feet with a resistance of
one Ohm. The reason is that *lamp cord* is typically >= 18 gauge stranded
copper wire. Look up the resistance of that if you're curious.

Yes, the 1-ohm figure was to illustrate the point, and is a bit astray
with reality. The AWG figure for 18g wire is 6.385 ohms/1000ft. In
real terms, if you have a run of say, 20 ft to your speaker, that's 40
feet of wire total, so the resistance will be 6.385*40/1000, = 0.2554
ohms. In series with a <0.1 ohm damping factor impedance, 0.255 ohms
will reduce the factor from 40 to 4/(0.1+0.255) = 11.25, practically a
four-time reduction.

And a couple hundred feet is 400 feet return, which will have
6.385*400/1000 = 2.554 ohms. A run of 18 awg with total resistance <= 1
ohm can be no longer than 78 feet of cable.
Wrong... The resistance of the speaker's voice coil is far greater than
any speaker cable (or lamp cord) one is likely to buy. The impact of
speaker cables with lengths of less than 20 ft. on the damping factor of
the amplifier will be practically immeasurable, and certainly far less
than the imperfections in even the best speaker systems. In short, you'll
never hear it.

Other imperfections in speakers are not in question here. As far as
damping of cone movement is concerned, any series resistance in the
cable reduces the ability of the amp. to control it.
Yep. This "new" approach has only been done for the last eighty years or
so. ;-)

It's only with the advent of high-power transistor or f.e.t. amplifiers
that it has become practicable to put the amplifier into the speaker
enclosure. Tube amps had too much heat and not enough damping factor to
make it advantageous.
Wrong, once again. 18 guage lamp cord can carry as much as 10 amps *at 120
Volts*, which is *1200 Watts* (though this is not a recommended loading).
Very few audio amplifiers, and even fewer speakers have 120 Volt output
circuits, with many falling in the 10 to 25 Volt range. You do the math to
figure the current @ 100 Watts.

What??? Voltage has nothing whatsoever to do with current-carrying
capacity, and neither has wattage, being a function of voltage. You
appear to be ignorant of Ohm's Law, which inter alia says that I
(current) equals W (watts) divided by R (resistance). So 100 watts/4
ohms = 25 amperes of current. High output-voltage systems, like
100-volt lines, are used to feed multiple speakers as in Public Address
systems, used in part to make calculation of how much power is fed to
each speaker easier (which can vary according to location), and reduced
losses in the cable, since higher voltage means reduced current.
Neil
(with > 40 years of designing pro audio systems)
(and some *really expensive* lamp cord, er, "speaker cables" to sell you
if you still disagree) ;-)

An amateur designer, perhaps? Some of your ideas appear to run counter
to accepted theory.

Colin D.

PS: another experimant you can try is to find an analog meter, and
oscillate the meter body, noting the amount of movement required to set
the needle swinging. Now, connect a piece of wire across the meter
terminals and oscillate the meter again. Note the needle is much harder
to set swinging, a direct effect of short-sircuit damping. Q.E.D.
 
Recently said:
Well, what I said was perfectly true if you don't misread it; the
ultra-expensive cables I was referring to do have gold jacks, and
have no better performance than cheap cables. But they fail at a much
lower rate/much higher MTBF.
Point taken!
I've got better things to do than futz with guitar cables. Of course,
I have things easier than most electrified guitarists: I don't use
any effectors so there's only one cable between my guitar and the
amp. Folks with effectors have a lot of points for things to fail (so
cheap cables are really frightening), and using expensive cables
would get really painful really fast.
So, what style of guitar do you play? I've been at it since the '50s, so
cut a pretty broad swath through the music spectrum. That resulted in
having a set of radically different guitars (and different radical
guitars). So, I not only spent time futzing around with the cables, but
have designed and built my own amp setups, some from scratch, and the most
recent using off-the-shelf components. ;-)

Neil
 
Neil said:
Wrong... The resistance of the speaker's voice coil is far greater than
any speaker cable (or lamp cord) one is likely to buy. The impact of
speaker cables with lengths of less than 20 ft. on the damping factor of
the amplifier will be practically immeasurable, and certainly far less
than the imperfections in even the best speaker systems. In short, you'll
never hear it.
Agreed, IMO this puts an end to the discussion about damping factors.
But there is another story to this: bass speakers generate distortion which
the voice coil outputs back into the cable + amplifier. If that system
doesn't short-circuit that signal then the harmonics can end up on the mid
reange speaker. The solution is to connect the mid/high and the low with
separate cables (lamp cords) to the amplifier, or better, separate
amplifiers. Incidentally, for the higher audio frequencies the skin effect
might play a role too, which is where the gold plating comes in.
All in all, enough FUD stories for the audio freak to play safe with
expensive cables and what not.
Same holds for the art of scanning: playing safe means Tiff and not even
lossless compression turned on. Instead of gold plated cables lots of
expensive SCSI disks!

-- Hans
 
Recently said:
For your >40 years of experience, you don't come across as knowing
much about amplifiers.
Having designed and built many "good amplifiers" over the years, I'm
comfortable with what I know about them.
Damping factor has nothing to do with
amplification per se.
Then, what do you think the purpose of feedback might be?
It's only with the advent of high-power transistor or f.e.t.
amplifiers that it has become practicable to put the amplifier into
the speaker enclosure. Tube amps had too much heat and not enough
damping factor to make it advantageous.
Tell that to Altec, Leslie and many others who have done exactly that for
a very long time. With tube amps.

(much snipped)
What??? Voltage has nothing whatsoever to do with current-carrying
capacity, and neither has wattage, being a function of voltage.
Your assertion, above, is that "a 100-*WATT* signal requires the cable to
carry 25 amps r.m.s. which is a lot for lamp cord." How did you arrive at
that load factor independent of voltage? Apparently, you think that 25A @
120V = 25A @ 12V. Since you're into "experiments", here's an easy one for
you: for which one would you let your body complete the circuit? Try them
both, and decide. ;-)
An amateur designer, perhaps? Some of your ideas appear to run
counter to accepted theory.
I think we have pretty different ideas about what constitutes a "good
amplifier". Since this discussion is way OT here, why not drop over to,
say, rec.audio.pro and make such claims. I'm sure that many will be glad
to sort out your notions.

Regards,

Neil
 
Your assertion, above, is that "a 100-*WATT* signal requires the cable to
carry 25 amps r.m.s. which is a lot for lamp cord." How did you arrive at
that load factor independent of voltage? Apparently, you think that 25A @
120V = 25A @ 12V. Since you're into "experiments", here's an easy one for
you: for which one would you let your body complete the circuit? Try them
both, and decide. ;-)


100 watts can be delivered in multiple ways. Colin
understands that. Do you?

It makes a big difference whether it's 25A @ 4V or 25V @ 4A.

In particular, it takes a different kind of wire.

That's why high voltages (and cheap aluminum conductors)
are generally used for long-distance power transmission.

But back to the main topic at hand, which apparently
has nothing to do with TIF or JPG -- I disagree with
Colin's original assertion in this post, but not enough
to argue the point.

High-end audio is the domain of wannabe electrical
engineers. His description of vacuum tubes as
valves was the tipoff. I mean, they *are*... but only
dweebs use that expression.

Instead of 100 watts RMS, maybe what Colin needs
are a pair of Klipschorns, which are high-impedance
and efficient as get-out.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com
 
Same holds for the art of scanning: playing safe means Tiff and not even
lossless compression turned on. Instead of gold plated cables lots of
expensive SCSI disks!


Right, who cares about whether the losses are measurable or not.

Throw more hardware at it, and full speed ahead.

More memory, bigger disks, faster CPUs.

The earth will absorb our old electronic junk and provide
cheap energy forever.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com
 
Recently said:
100 watts can be delivered in multiple ways. Colin
understands that. Do you?
Yes. That should be obvious if you understand what I wrote. The issue of
whether lamp cord can handle wattage is power dissipation, which will
necessarily involve voltage.
It makes a big difference whether it's 25A @ 4V or 25V @ 4A.
That is a corollary to the point of my reply, above.
Instead of 100 watts RMS, maybe what Colin needs
are a pair of Klipschorns, which are high-impedance
and efficient as get-out.
;-)

Neil
 
Neil Gould said:
So, what style of guitar do you play? I've been at it since the '50s, so
cut a pretty broad swath through the music spectrum. That resulted in
having a set of radically different guitars (and different radical
guitars). So, I not only spent time futzing around with the cables, but
have designed and built my own amp setups, some from scratch, and the most
recent using off-the-shelf components. ;-)

I'm much more limited. I started out blues and fingerpicking (Fahey, Kottke,
van Ronk, Kaukonnen sorts of things) on a flattop and switched to swing and
bebop on an L5 a few years ago. Recently I'm listening more to Sonny Stitt
than guitarists, though.

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan
 
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