CPU Overheat Damage?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Phil
  • Start date Start date
LOL, yeah but luckily we are both technical minded so we'll be okay.
BTW the comp now powers down when it feels like it and only 1 user profile
will allow you to ener info on google or suchlike!

Thanks for the link
Phil
 
Hi,
I finally got some more info:
PSU = Tsunami VG-A350ATX
No combined rating visible

Actual Readings:
+3.3V = 4.02
+5V = 5.01
+12V = 12.75

This PSU was reported to be giving high readings in a forum post:
http://www.techspot.com/vb/archive/index/t-11390.html

My spare PSU is a Mercury 300W so after reading that thread I'm reluctant to
even try it!

Any suggestions?
 
Hi,
I finally got some more info:
PSU = Tsunami VG-A350ATX
No combined rating visible

Actual Readings:
+3.3V = 4.02
+5V = 5.01
+12V = 12.75

This PSU was reported to be giving high readings in a forum post:
http://www.techspot.com/vb/archive/index/t-11390.html

My spare PSU is a Mercury 300W so after reading that thread I'm reluctant to
even try it!

Any suggestions?

Assuming "actual readings" means multimeter measurements at
the ATX connector for the 3.3V, I'd replace the power
supply. Even ignoring the 3.3V, having 12V @ 12.75V on a
board that uses 5V for CPU power is usually an indicator
that the PSU does not have sufficient 5V amperage, is
struggling already and may degrade further with time. Not
having your board & bios version, nor that specific PSU here
I can only base this on past observations of my own and
other posts here & elsewhere... similar problems with
different parts, but same solution. Then again, given the
generic nature of your PSU it's "probably" sold under
several generic labels... i just don't know which/what it
is.

As mentioned previosuly a decent 300W should suffice, a
known good name-brand with at least 200W combined 3V + 5V
rating. For more margin and potential for upgrades later
you might consider a higher wattage unit instead (again,
known-good name-brand with fairly high 3V+5V combined
rating).
 
Assuming "actual readings" means multimeter measurements at
the ATX connector for the 3.3V, I'd replace the power
supply. Even ignoring the 3.3V, having 12V @ 12.75V on a
board that uses 5V for CPU power is usually an indicator
that the PSU does not have sufficient 5V amperage, is
struggling already and may degrade further with time. Not
having your board & bios version, nor that specific PSU here
I can only base this on past observations of my own and
other posts here & elsewhere... similar problems with
different parts, but same solution. Then again, given the
generic nature of your PSU it's "probably" sold under
several generic labels... i just don't know which/what it
is.

As mentioned previosuly a decent 300W should suffice, a
known good name-brand with at least 200W combined 3V + 5V
rating. For more margin and potential for upgrades later
you might consider a higher wattage unit instead (again,
known-good name-brand with fairly high 3V+5V combined
rating).

Thanks for that.
Yes actual readings were taken with a multimeter while in the bios voltage
monitor, the real readings were the bios + around 0.15 for reference.
I changed the PSU for the Mercury 300W
All is working so far u the combined 3.3 & 5V is only 180W so I am keen to
get something better.
I've looked at some here
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ProductComparison.aspx?ModNos=35345,37702,44784,4478
7,44789,44790,-9738&doy=11m4 but nothing about combined ratings mentioned.
Can you suggest a make / supplier?
Phil
 
Thanks for that.
Yes actual readings were taken with a multimeter while in the bios voltage
monitor, the real readings were the bios + around 0.15 for reference.
I changed the PSU for the Mercury 300W
All is working so far u the combined 3.3 & 5V is only 180W so I am keen to
get something better.
I've looked at some here
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ProductComparison.aspx?ModNos=35345,37702,44784,4478
7,44789,44790,-9738&doy=11m4 but nothing about combined ratings mentioned.
Can you suggest a make / supplier?
Phil

I wouldn't know a good UK price if I saw one, but suggest
that usually Sparkle/Fortron are one of the best values.. or
if you found a particularly good sale on something else that
might suffice too. Name brands like Sparkle, Antec
Truepower, Delta, etc, are the safest bets. Unless you've
had experience with particular off-brands/generics it's like
a lottery, a gamble whether what you get is viable long-term
or barely working for a few months.

With the name-brand units you should be able to get specs at
the manufacturer's website. In general a modern 300W will
be borderline, some have higher combined 3V +5V rating than
others. Most name-brand 350W are at least 200W 3V+5V. Part
of the issue there is that even the name-brands produce more
than one version of their "300W", with the lesser 300W
version being the one targeted at bulk sales to case
manufacturers among other markets.

Another option is a Thermaltake/Enlight 420W, as they're
often priced pretty competitively. I"m not fond of their
fans but how picky you can be will be somewhat determined by
the budget... or whether you have a different fan and are
willing to swap out fans.
 
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