S
Sam Louis
All inkjet printers have these problems. So what's your point?
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M
Martin ©¿©¬ unohu
Regarding that 2-56 machine screw. . .
I've been refilling those Canon carts for years and find that a 6-32 x
1/4" panhead, stainless-steel machine screw works just fine. They're a
lot easier to find (at any Home Depot) and the larger size is a whole
bunch easier to handle that the li'l No. 2 screw and it's a li'l
easier to find the hole with the needle.
Hi David
What size of drill bit do you use for these screws?
B
Burt
I use a stainless steel panhead sheet metal screw similar to the one noted
below. I use a hot straightened paper clip to melt a hole in the cart
between the factory fill hole and the closest end of the cart and then use
the screw to cut its own hole and threads. Use it with a tight fitting
o-ring for a seal. I like the sheetmetal screw better than the machine
screw as it has a pointed tip and is easier to replace after filling.
Although the threads are coarser and the plastic is thin I have never had a
problem sealing with with this system.
below. I use a hot straightened paper clip to melt a hole in the cart
between the factory fill hole and the closest end of the cart and then use
the screw to cut its own hole and threads. Use it with a tight fitting
o-ring for a seal. I like the sheetmetal screw better than the machine
screw as it has a pointed tip and is easier to replace after filling.
Although the threads are coarser and the plastic is thin I have never had a
problem sealing with with this system.
M
Martin ©¿©¬ unohu
I use a stainless steel panhead sheet metal screw similar to the one noted
below. I use a hot straightened paper clip to melt a hole in the cart
between the factory fill hole and the closest end of the cart and then use
the screw to cut its own hole and threads. Use it with a tight fitting
o-ring for a seal. I like the sheetmetal screw better than the machine
screw as it has a pointed tip and is easier to replace after filling.
Although the threads are coarser and the plastic is thin I have never had a
problem sealing with with this system.
Thanks Burt
I might try them instead
P
Pixmaker
Hello, Martin:
Sorry to delay answering your question. . . I've been shooting like
mad and am swamped with post-processing.
There are two drill sizes associated with any machine screw; the
clearance drill, which creates a hole that will allow the screw
threads to pass through easily but still provide a good bearing
surfact for the screw head, and the tap drill, which creates a hole
somewhat smaller than the outside diameter of the threads and allows a
tap to be used to create threads on the inside of the hole. The screw
can then be repeatedly removed and reinserted into the threaded hole.
For a 6-32 machine screw, the clearance drill is 0.144" in diameter,
a number 27. (You don't need this size. . . it's for use when you are
using a nut and washer combination to fasten two objects together.)
The Tap drill is between 0.107" to 0.113" depending on the hardness
of the material. For plastics, I suggest a number 36 drill ( 0.1065"
diameter.)
These drills are available at most hardware stores In a pinch, you can
use a 7/64" drill but I suggest the No. 36.
Just buy a number 36 drill, a 6-32 NC tap and a small tap wrench.
You can probably find a tap wrench at a garage sale or an auction or
a flea market for a dollar or so. New ones are about $5-$10. Same
goes for the tap although new 6-32 taps are about $3 - $4.
Email me if you have any problems.
David in Ft. Lauderdale
=======================
"It's not the heat,
it's the humidity!"
(Think the humidity's bad?
You should watch us vote!)
=======================
Sorry to delay answering your question. . . I've been shooting like
mad and am swamped with post-processing.
There are two drill sizes associated with any machine screw; the
clearance drill, which creates a hole that will allow the screw
threads to pass through easily but still provide a good bearing
surfact for the screw head, and the tap drill, which creates a hole
somewhat smaller than the outside diameter of the threads and allows a
tap to be used to create threads on the inside of the hole. The screw
can then be repeatedly removed and reinserted into the threaded hole.
For a 6-32 machine screw, the clearance drill is 0.144" in diameter,
a number 27. (You don't need this size. . . it's for use when you are
using a nut and washer combination to fasten two objects together.)
The Tap drill is between 0.107" to 0.113" depending on the hardness
of the material. For plastics, I suggest a number 36 drill ( 0.1065"
diameter.)
These drills are available at most hardware stores In a pinch, you can
use a 7/64" drill but I suggest the No. 36.
Just buy a number 36 drill, a 6-32 NC tap and a small tap wrench.
You can probably find a tap wrench at a garage sale or an auction or
a flea market for a dollar or so. New ones are about $5-$10. Same
goes for the tap although new 6-32 taps are about $3 - $4.
Email me if you have any problems.
David in Ft. Lauderdale
=======================
"It's not the heat,
it's the humidity!"
(Think the humidity's bad?
You should watch us vote!)
=======================
J
Jim
Hi folks
I recommend using aquarium silicon sealer to seal the filler
hole, it's easy to apply and easy to remove for a re-fill. Or at a
push, hot glue sticks.
Just my twopenny worth.
Regards.
Jim
Down by the River Plym
I recommend using aquarium silicon sealer to seal the filler
hole, it's easy to apply and easy to remove for a re-fill. Or at a
push, hot glue sticks.
Just my twopenny worth.
Regards.
Jim
Down by the River Plym
M
measekite
Jim said:Hi folks
I recommend using aquarium silicon sealer to seal the filler
hole, it's easy to apply and easy to remove for a re-fill. Or at a
push, hot glue sticks.
I recommend using genuine Canon ink carts.