The part for the CPU, is the bit on the right, which has the triangular
arrangement of mount points. Another picture I found (not linked)
indicates
there is a backing plate with three standoffs on it, and presumably it
pokes
through the motherboard and mates with the triangular arrangement. The
backing
plate provides a means to hold it firmly in place, without bending the
PCB material underneath the CPU and cracking the solder balls.
http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/abarelyinc/the-3161/HP-PAVILLION-DV6000-HEATSINK/Detail
This is your second part number. It says "refurbished" and I hope that
means they
put new thermal pads with peel-away protective layer, in the appropriate
spots. If
the item was new, it would have the right thermal material in place.
Refurb implies
the pads were replaced (pads come in many thicknesses and compositions,
and
are expensive to buy - it's easy to end up with the wrong ones there).
With
a refurb, you wouldn't know how many hours are on the fan.
http://www.pacificgeek.com/product.asp?id=107098
The third one is missing an entire heat pipe and contact point, which
means a matching motherboard has no discrete GPU.
http://www.impactcomputers.com/434985-001.html
The "V7.9" and "V8.1" part doesn't ring any bells. Comparing the first
two links is difficult, because one is a top view, and the other is
a bottom view. They look to be cooling the same number of items.
If you spend a bit more time than I did, doing "image searches", you'll
likely
find better pictures.
If your laptop is really busted, you can always take it apart, until
you can eyeball that assembly. The second link shows the thing has a
sticker with the part number on it.
I presume the reason you buy the whole thing, is due to the mounting
scheme for the fan. It looks like it may be fastened permanently to
the heatpipe assembly. Too bad - if they used a standard format fan,
this would be so easy to repair.
A heatpipe is a hollow copper tube, with a few drops of solvent
inside. A typical solvent might be alcohol. Heatpipes use "boiling"
and "condensing" to move tremendous amounts of heat. A heatpipe is
better than a solid copper tube of comparable diameter. If the drops
of fluid inside ever leak out of the sealed tubing, then the tube becomes
ineffective, and the item will start to overheat. Enthusiast desktop
coolers use multiple parallel heat pipes, and if one leaks, the others
continue to work. By providing a "sintered" finish inside the tube,
the condensate will even run uphill, by capillary action. (That helps
keep consistent performance, when the laptop is tilted.) Flattening
the tube, as was done in your assembly, helps enhance the contact patch
and where it touches the heat source.
The thermal pads on that thing, will be different thicknesses. They use
pads, because the mechanical assembly has tolerances. There can be a
fairly
large gap between the chip and the heatpipe assembly. The thermal pad
fills the gap with a conducting material (mainly boron nitride in a
"special sauce"). Pads suck, but they're frequently the best solution
when you have several items that need cooling and the tolerances
aren't tight enough.
If the cooling assembly consisted of a "cooler per chip", mechanically
independent, then you could use something like Arctic Silver thermal
paste.
But since this application involves gaps, you can't substitute paste for
the job. Paste is good when the parts are pressing hard against one
another,
and the gap is virtually zero. Pads are the best option, when the gap is
variable, and when ruined, you can peel the pad off and fit a new one.
When working with pads, be very careful what you grab. In the lab, I
had a habit of grabbing the wrong layer and ripping the thing to bits.
There should be a plastic cover and you're supposed to pull that
away, to expose the working layer. Usually, you end up ruining one,
in the process of discovering how they work. You may want to examine
the old one carefully, and if the pads are *exactly* the same part number
on the new assembly, it may give you a hint of what to grab and what not
to
touch. If you're a butterfingers, order two cooling assemblies, ruin
one and do a good job of the other
The odds of finding just the
right replacement pads are low, so it's not like you can drop
down to Radio Shack and get the exact right one. There are hundreds of
products (with at least a 10:1 range of cooling performances), all
slightly
and annoyingly different.
