When MBRDs fail + POST cards ? which POST cards?

[jameshanley39]

I've got 2 MBRDs. Both have the same problem.

They power up but I get no BIOS screen and no steady green light.
Depending on monitor I use, with Dell monitor I get steady amber and
alternating black screen and "no signal". With IBM monitor I get a
flashing amber and black screen.
But I guess the key is no BIOS screen at all, or steady green light.
Another broken MBRD gets a brief green light off the IBM monitor, but
no BIOS screen, and it soon goes flashing amber.


Clearly both these MBRDs aren't giving a signal. I'm interested in
where the fault lies, even though the MBRD is probably permanently
damage and needs to be replaced.

Would a POST card show me?

Or would it show me nothing since the MBRD isn't POSTing?

I know some POST cards are really expensive, so they must be some
use!! What use are they?

I tested the RAM, and it's ok.(that's no hassle, I wouldn't need a POST
card to test that). I suppose the problem could be the CPU, but I hate
replacing that, what with all the paste and cleaning the paste off.
Would a POST card tell me if the CPU is causing the problem?
And would a POST card tell me which part of the MBRD is broken? ('cos
i'm just interested)

 

[Paul]

I've got 2 MBRDs. Both have the same problem.

They power up but I get no BIOS screen and no steady green light.
Depending on monitor I use, with Dell monitor I get steady amber and
alternating black screen and "no signal". With IBM monitor I get a
flashing amber and black screen.
But I guess the key is no BIOS screen at all, or steady green light.
Another broken MBRD gets a brief green light off the IBM monitor, but
no BIOS screen, and it soon goes flashing amber.


Clearly both these MBRDs aren't giving a signal. I'm interested in
where the fault lies, even though the MBRD is probably permanently
damage and needs to be replaced.

Would a POST card show me?

Or would it show me nothing since the MBRD isn't POSTing?

I know some POST cards are really expensive, so they must be some
use!! What use are they?

I tested the RAM, and it's ok.(that's no hassle, I wouldn't need a POST
card to test that). I suppose the problem could be the CPU, but I hate
replacing that, what with all the paste and cleaning the paste off.
Would a POST card tell me if the CPU is causing the problem?
And would a POST card tell me which part of the MBRD is broken? ('cos
i'm just interested)

There are some Ebay sellers, who sell POST cards at reasonable prices.
You don't have to pay $100 a unit to get one. Hardware-wise, the cards
are pretty simple, and there isn't a good reason for them to be
expensive. The cheap ones come straight from Hong Kong:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pc-Analyzer-mai...ryZ96869QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

The big question, is whether they typically tell you anything. I've
read people's reports from their use of a POST card, tried to look
up the POST code, based on the BIOS type they are using, and the
codes are not listed. A BIOS designer can use codes not in the list,
and then a POST card user will be getting useless info.

http://www.bioscentral.com/

Certainly, seeing "00" or "FF" on the display, tells you
no BIOS code is being executed, so I suppose that is some
consolation. But if you were hoping for a report like "your
XXX is busted", that hardly ever seems to happens. Examine the
POST code listings on bioscentral, and see if they are meaningful
to you. Then look for a cheap Ebay seller, if you want a good deal,
as buying a POST card at a local store, you'll pay "retail" for it,
if you can find one.

Paul

 

[jameshanley39]

There are some Ebay sellers, who sell POST cards at reasonable prices.
You don't have to pay $100 a unit to get one. Hardware-wise, the cards
are pretty simple, and there isn't a good reason for them to be
expensive. The cheap ones come straight from Hong Kong:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pc-Analyzer-mai...ryZ96869QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

The big question, is whether they typically tell you anything. I've
read people's reports from their use of a POST card, tried to look
up the POST code, based on the BIOS type they are using, and the
codes are not listed. A BIOS designer can use codes not in the list,
and then a POST card user will be getting useless info.

http://www.bioscentral.com/

Certainly, seeing "00" or "FF" on the display, tells you
no BIOS code is being executed, so I suppose that is some
consolation. But if you were hoping for a report like "your
XXX is busted", that hardly ever seems to happens. Examine the
POST code listings on bioscentral, and see if they are meaningful
to you. Then look for a cheap Ebay seller, if you want a good deal,
as buying a POST card at a local store, you'll pay "retail" for it,
if you can find one.

Paul

thanks I guess the POST cards aren't so useful to me 'cos a beeping
computer is a doddle to diagnose anyway. I don't have so many beeping
computers to make it that useful. And if there' no BIOS booting then I
can see. No need for a code to say so ..

But what interests me is 2 MBRDs with te same problem. They power on
but don't boot the BIOS.. i'm wondering if it could have a common cause
,, common electrical problem. Or even the same problem on the MBRD, in
which case I may be able to be more informed and avoid it next time(if
it's the same problem), 'cos maybe there are some models that don't
have it, or maybe some device caused it. And it's good to know
anyway... How many common causes are there to have that effect? Is it
a really standard MBRD failure?

And would a POST card help with telling me if the reason it won't boot
is CPU ? 'cos I hate replacing that, that would save time if it could
do that. Though I don't get any beeps, it's not POSTing - how can it
without a CPU.. So maybe it never beeps when no CPU? I don't know.


TIA

 

[kony]

thanks I guess the POST cards aren't so useful to me 'cos a beeping
computer is a doddle to diagnose anyway. I don't have so many beeping
computers to make it that useful. And if there' no BIOS booting then I
can see. No need for a code to say so ..

But what interests me is 2 MBRDs with te same problem. They power on
but don't boot the BIOS.. i'm wondering if it could have a common cause
,, common electrical problem. Or even the same problem on the MBRD, in
which case I may be able to be more informed and avoid it next time(if
it's the same problem), 'cos maybe there are some models that don't
have it, or maybe some device caused it. And it's good to know
anyway... How many common causes are there to have that effect? Is it
a really standard MBRD failure?

No, a failure to POST is an extremely common generic
classification that could have far too many causes to list.
While it is possible both boards have the same problem (and
odds of this might go up if the boards were virtually
identical), it isn't reasonable to assume without far more
evidence.

And would a POST card help with telling me if the reason it won't boot
is CPU ? 'cos I hate replacing that, that would save time if it could
do that. Though I don't get any beeps, it's not POSTing - how can it
without a CPU.. So maybe it never beeps when no CPU? I don't know.

A BIOS follows a sequence, and the post card tells you where
in the sequence it stops, but not what caused it to stop.
Therein lies the problem, a POST code can't tell you of many
of the most common board failures like a corrupt bios,
capacitor or other discrete component failure, physical
stress like cold solder joints, board cracks, tin whisker
shorts, ESD damage, etc, etc.

Because of the complexity of any semi-modern motherboard,
not much time can be spent effectively on single boards
failing. It works or it doesn't and if a fault isn't
visibly obvious (like vented capacitors or a burn mark on a
chip, knocked off resistor or something similar) there is
hardly a reasonable return from time it would take, let
alone the equipment it might as well.

FWIW, unless the system ran long term with a failed fan or
the heatsink fell off entirely while it was running (or an
attempt to start it, running merely means power applied, not
necessarily running the OS), it is far less likely the CPU
than motherboard. PSU might be 2nd most common... if you
had two identical systems (or PSU) the PSU might rise to
position of prime suspect, particularly if generic or other
retail/aftermarket came-with-case PSU.

 

[jameshanley39]

No, a failure to POST is an extremely common generic
classification that could have far too many causes to list.
While it is possible both boards have the same problem (and
odds of this might go up if the boards were virtually
identical), it isn't reasonable to assume without far more
evidence.


A BIOS follows a sequence, and the post card tells you where
in the sequence it stops, but not what caused it to stop.
Therein lies the problem, a POST code can't tell you of many
of the most common board failures like a corrupt bios,
capacitor or other discrete component failure, physical
stress like cold solder joints, board cracks, tin whisker
shorts, ESD damage, etc, etc.

Because of the complexity of any semi-modern motherboard,
not much time can be spent effectively on single boards
failing. It works or it doesn't and if a fault isn't
visibly obvious (like vented capacitors or a burn mark on a
chip, knocked off resistor or something similar) there is
hardly a reasonable return from time it would take, let
alone the equipment it might as well.

FWIW, unless the system ran long term with a failed fan or
the heatsink fell off entirely while it was running (or an
attempt to start it, running merely means power applied, not
necessarily running the OS), it is far less likely the CPU
than motherboard. PSU might be 2nd most common... if you
had two identical systems (or PSU) the PSU might rise to
position of prime suspect, particularly if generic or other
retail/aftermarket came-with-case PSU.

ok.. I mention CPU 'cos PSU is no hassle to change. If a POST card
could - by telling me where the process stops - tell me if my CPU is
causing the BIOS not to appear, then that'd help.. Could a POST card
tell me that?

i'm concerned that maybe a surge caused my MBRDs to fail. But, the PSUs
are still working, and no fuse went on the plugs. So I guess having a
surge protector wouldn't have made any difference

TIA

 

[kony]

ok.. I mention CPU 'cos PSU is no hassle to change.

IMO you have a mental block, a CPU is easier to change than
a PSU. You mentioned cleaning off thermal material... so
what is hard or time consuming about it? A CPU swap takes
about 5 minutes, less if you hurry or more if the case is
cramped (though similarly a cramped case makes a PSU swap a
bit more acrobatic too).

If a POST card
could - by telling me where the process stops - tell me if my CPU is
causing the BIOS not to appear, then that'd help.. Could a POST card
tell me that?

It cannot tell you the CPU is causing the bios not to
appear. It can tell you where it stops. Period. Not why.
Many board beep codes will also indicate a stopping point
that "could" occur due to an inoperable CPU... but again I
stess that CPU is not really worth thinking about unless you
had a specific reason, a direct evidence of a mechanical
problem that would obviously kill it. IOW- a lack of heat
removal. Otherwise it is not theoretically impossible for
one to fail but the odds are outside of reasonable suspicion
when starting to troubleshoot and narrow focus on suspect
parts.

i'm concerned that maybe a surge caused my MBRDs to fail.

If you had alternate paths through the board, like
unprotected network equipment, perhaps. Generally a surge
into a PSU will not kill the board, the PSU itself perhaps
but it can shut off pretty quickly unless inadequately
designed.

But, the PSUs
are still working, and no fuse went on the plugs. So I guess having a
surge protector wouldn't have made any difference

Fuse doesn't mean much, I get failed PSU all the time and
almost never is the fuse blown. IF the fuse were blown it
would of course be more obvious, but having it intact still
tells little.

We can only assume when you write that the PSU work, that
they are tested with an appropriate load. As an example, I
have a mATX PSU here that had it's fan fail, it had been
powering a system for about 4 years when brought to me.

System would not POST. I pulled PSU, checked voltage which
initially seemed ok and it would power on, run a load of a
couple HDDs fine. Apparently the 5VSB circuit had degraded
as the spare mATX PSU I swapped into it's place powered the
system fine. Temporarily swapped original back in just to
confirm the difference and it still showed the problem.
Eventually I may do further testing on that PSU for
curiosity's sake but that alone as the value of a 4 year old
mATX PSU is less than that of the high quality fan I would
swap in to attempt reuse, plus the higher likelihood it
would fail again since the prior fan failure had subjected
whole thing to excessive temps (for how long I've no idea
but there were portions of the PCB turning a toasted color
too).

I don't mean to suggest a POST card could never help, if you
have the post codes for these boards and plan on continuing
to test other boards eventually, it's not a bad tool to have
but most often in a situation as you're in, it is not
definitive and you'd end up having to swap a board or PSU to
isolate the variables either way.

 

[jameshanley39]

IMO you have a mental block, a CPU is easier to change than
a PSU. You mentioned cleaning off thermal material... so
what is hard or time consuming about it? A CPU swap takes
about 5 minutes, less if you hurry or more if the case is
cramped (though similarly a cramped case makes a PSU swap a
bit more acrobatic too).

CPU has a heatsink on it. Like most processors.

So, removing a CPU..

let's take a p4 as an example.. I think, socket 478 (not 775).

square black thing that socket 478 uses
http://www.pcsilent.nl/images/prod_img_332_253/foxconn.jpg


Move computer case into well lit area...

I need a light source to light up the corners of that black thing, the
areas where the heatsink clips will clip into .
I usually need a bright light shining over the top,, Or I need to find
a torch and position it so those corners of the black thing and whole
area, the heatsink clips too, are well lit ..

I take out my IPA 99% (isopropyl alcohol 99%) and lint free cloth. I
go outdoors, because I don't want to breath in too much of it. I wipe
the Arctic silver paste off the CPU and heatsink.

Reapplying the CPU, I now go indoors..
with my arctic silver paste, my cpu and heatsink..

I am not going to just put the paste onto the CPU and the heatsink on,
'cos I won't get it accurate. I have to do a few dry runs first of
putting the heatsink on the CPU, so that I can do it accurately.
Because if i do it inanaccurately I have to reaply the paste again.
I move the computer case to a place with a strong light source above
it, where I can clearly see the clips.. It takes about 5 attempts till
I can put the heatsink on smoothly.
Then I put paste on the CPU and put the heatsink on, putting one side
of the clip on, then the other, worrying that if I get it wrong i'll
have to reapply it. It's fine.. thanks to my few trial attempts, the
first 2 of which took a while and were very frustrating and fiddly.


I now lie down on the bed..

Changing a PSU is nothing compared to that!!

If I could run the p4 without a heatsink my life would be easier!

And maybe if all my heatsinks had that hard to find clip that looks
like a house, I think coolermaster one like it for one of their
heatsinks.. Anyhow, it's a massive hassle. Of all the things to remove
or change, nothing compares to the hassle of changing the CPU.. As i've
described, the hassle is clear!

please tell me where i'm going wrong!!! it'd save me a lot of grief!


<snip>

 

[kony]

CPU has a heatsink on it. Like most processors.

So, removing a CPU..

let's take a p4 as an example.. I think, socket 478 (not 775).

square black thing that socket 478 uses
http://www.pcsilent.nl/images/prod_img_332_253/foxconn.jpg


Move computer case into well lit area...

.... or get a flashlight if the room lighting is really that
bad.

I need a light source to light up the corners of that black thing, the
areas where the heatsink clips will clip into .
I usually need a bright light shining over the top,, Or I need to find
a torch and position it so those corners of the black thing and whole
area, the heatsink clips too, are well lit ..

If you like, but presuming you've seen it before, it's still
the same heatsink it was then... a flashlight is typically
enough, if even that is needed. In some bad cases,
something might need removed to access a clip or lever. At
worst the whole PSU has to be pulled out, I'll generally get
a box about the same height as the bottom side of the PSU
(while in the case) and just move the PSU to the boxtop
sitting beside the system case for long enough to pop the
'sink off.

I take out my IPA 99% (isopropyl alcohol 99%) and lint free cloth.

Lint free cloth is unnecessary. Geeks will be quick to tell
you otherwise that there is some theory of a tiny particle
staying on the CPU, but they quickly get defensive if ever
asked if they had a CPU overheat from this or found a lint
particle that refused to blow off of a dry CPU. If a lint
particle is big enough to see, it's obvious whether it's
clean enough or not. If it's too small to see, it's too
small to matter.

Alcohol is ok for some interface material, but a petroleum
based solvent handles more types. I only mention this
before reading what you wrote below, as it is used here for
cleaning off original thermal interface pads rather than
grease.

I
go outdoors, because I don't want to breath in too much of it.

That's just excessive. Do you never drink alcohol even in
moderation? Studies show it can have health benefits, did
you suppose someone can drink some but wouldn't breathe in?
The tiny bit on a towel to wipe a CPU is fairly irrelevant
unless you have some particular medical condition that would
be aggravated, and if that is the case, that alone would
seem the first, last, and only reason it's harder.

I wipe
the Arctic silver paste off the CPU and heatsink.

Arctic Silver doesn't even need alcohol to remove it.
Suppose you did a less than ideal job and the CPU was 1C
hotter. It wouldn't matter. The more times you
place/replace a heatsink the more you will realize that even
though you can't be sloppy about, it doesn't take a special
procedure or extreme care either. Since socket 478 chips
have a heat spreader the relevance goes down even further.

Reapplying the CPU, I now go indoors..
with my arctic silver paste, my cpu and heatsink..

I am not going to just put the paste onto the CPU and the heatsink on,
'cos I won't get it accurate. I have to do a few dry runs first of
putting the heatsink on the CPU, so that I can do it accurately.
Because if i do it inanaccurately I have to reaply the paste again.
I move the computer case to a place with a strong light source above
it, where I can clearly see the clips.. It takes about 5 attempts till
I can put the heatsink on smoothly.
Then I put paste on the CPU and put the heatsink on, putting one side
of the clip on, then the other, worrying that if I get it wrong i'll
have to reapply it. It's fine.. thanks to my few trial attempts, the
first 2 of which took a while and were very frustrating and fiddly.


I now lie down on the bed..

Changing a PSU is nothing compared to that!!

Actually it's about as easy as typing what you just did,
especially with Arctic Silver instead of a hardened thermal
interface pad to remove.

If I could run the p4 without a heatsink my life would be easier!

If I wanted to brainstorm all kinds of off the wall problems
with removing or installing a PSU, I could probably claim it
took all day long. Instead, I like to just get the job
done. Doing so, both can be swapped in about 10 minutes
taking your time, with the PSU taking most of that time due
to routing the wiring and restraining with cable ties.

And maybe if all my heatsinks had that hard to find clip that looks
like a house, I think coolermaster one like it for one of their
heatsinks.. Anyhow, it's a massive hassle. Of all the things to remove
or change, nothing compares to the hassle of changing the CPU.. As i've
described, the hassle is clear!

please tell me where i'm going wrong!!! it'd save me a lot of grief!

Maybe you just need to do it a few more times... get more
comfortable doing it, till you see that it can be done in
3-5 minutes without problems. I'd not suggesting you *rush*
doing it, but even if you had to walk outside, unless your
house is extremely large what would it add but an extra
minute?

It is probably irrelevant though, if the fan works and the
sink is still on the CPU, odds are it isn't the problem.

 

[jameshanley39]

... or get a flashlight if the room lighting is really that
bad.



If you like, but presuming you've seen it before, it's still
the same heatsink it was then... a flashlight is typically
enough, if even that is needed. In some bad cases,
something might need removed to access a clip or lever. At
worst the whole PSU has to be pulled out, I'll generally get
a box about the same height as the bottom side of the PSU
(while in the case) and just move the PSU to the boxtop
sitting beside the system case for long enough to pop the
'sink off.



Lint free cloth is unnecessary. Geeks will be quick to tell
you otherwise that there is some theory of a tiny particle
staying on the CPU, but they quickly get defensive if ever
asked if they had a CPU overheat from this or found a lint
particle that refused to blow off of a dry CPU. If a lint
particle is big enough to see, it's obvious whether it's
clean enough or not. If it's too small to see, it's too
small to matter.

Alcohol is ok for some interface material, but a petroleum
based solvent handles more types. I only mention this
before reading what you wrote below, as it is used here for
cleaning off original thermal interface pads rather than
grease.



That's just excessive. Do you never drink alcohol even in
moderation? Studies show it can have health benefits, did
you suppose someone can drink some but wouldn't breathe in?
The tiny bit on a towel to wipe a CPU is fairly irrelevant
unless you have some particular medical condition that would
be aggravated, and if that is the case, that alone would
seem the first, last, and only reason it's harder.


Arctic Silver doesn't even need alcohol to remove it.
Suppose you did a less than ideal job and the CPU was 1C
hotter. It wouldn't matter. The more times you
place/replace a heatsink the more you will realize that even
though you can't be sloppy about, it doesn't take a special
procedure or extreme care either. Since socket 478 chips
have a heat spreader the relevance goes down even further.


Actually it's about as easy as typing what you just did,
especially with Arctic Silver instead of a hardened thermal
interface pad to remove.




If I wanted to brainstorm all kinds of off the wall problems
with removing or installing a PSU, I could probably claim it
took all day long. Instead, I like to just get the job
done. Doing so, both can be swapped in about 10 minutes
taking your time, with the PSU taking most of that time due
to routing the wiring and restraining with cable ties.





Maybe you just need to do it a few more times... get more
comfortable doing it, till you see that it can be done in
3-5 minutes without problems. I'd not suggesting you *rush*
doing it, but even if you had to walk outside, unless your
house is extremely large what would it add but an extra
minute?

It is probably irrelevant though, if the fan works and the
sink is still on the CPU, odds are it isn't the problem.

If I can use any alcohol and a tissue, that'd be ideal.

regarding alcohol and alternatives.

IPA 99% is a struggle to get hold of where I live. You go into the
chemist, ask for the chemist, and 9 times out of 10 they "used to sell
it years ago but no more".
I've read somewhere that if you drink a bit of it you get brain damage.
The isopropyl part of it is what causes the big danger. I think I read
that drinking a tiny bit of Ethanol(100% alcohol) wouldn't be
dangerous, so I wouldn't worry about inhaling that. It's the isopropyl
bit of the IPA that concerns me.. Also, the bottle stresses that
it's hazardous and mustn't be inhaled. I see similar warnings on
bottles of Meths.

Acetone or nail varnish remover , i've heard is not such a good idea
because if you don't put it only on the core of the cpu, and some of it
hits the green part, it damages it. And I don't really want to go out
and buy nail varnish remover anyway.. And i hate the smell, I'd have to
do it outside.

I have alcohol and don't have a problem with the smell of it. And if I
can drink it i don't mind smelling it!

Can I use ANY alcohol? e.g. Whiskey? What about Wine? Malibu? (thinking
about stuff i've got in the cabinet).. Some of them aren't clear e.g.
wine or whiskey, and obviously any of them would have other things
that aren't pure alcohol in them. Also, some of these are quite low
alcohol %.. So I don't know what use they'd be , how much better
they'd be than water. The best I can do at the moment, as far as my
beverages are concerned, is whiskey at 40%. I'm interested though if
wine would do, or if the % is too low or if it has too much other stuff
in it.

 

[kony]

If I can use any alcohol and a tissue, that'd be ideal.

To get off Arctic silver you do not need alcohol at all.
A paper towel dry will be fine.

regarding alcohol and alternatives.

IPA 99% is a struggle to get hold of where I live.

Who said you needed 99%? If you insist on using alcohol,
70/30 is not a problem. Don't dump it straight onto the CPU
instead of a little on an towel so it doesn't get under the
heat spreader which would take far longer to dry, but you're
already making it more complicated that it needs to be.
Half the beauty of Arctic Silver is that is so easy to get
off.

Acetone or nail varnish remover , i've heard is not such a good idea
because if you don't put it only on the core of the cpu, and some of it
hits the green part, it damages it. And I don't really want to go out
and buy nail varnish remover anyway.. And i hate the smell, I'd have to
do it outside.

Who told you to use acetone or nail polish remover?
Wiping the grease off a CPU is not a hard thing, you are
really putting too much thought into this. Just use some
common sense and only what's needed, nothing addt'l, no
stronger cleaner than needed (which is none in this case),
no extra steps that aren't needed, etc, etc.

 

[jameshanley39]

To get off Arctic silver you do not need alcohol at all.
A paper towel dry will be fine.

oh ok
though if it drops the temp a couple of degrees it may be worth while.
Incase the fan chooses to speed up - getting noisier - at a certain
temperature. So it'd be good if the average temp is sufficiently below
that temperature.

Who said you needed 99%? If you insist on using alcohol,
70/30 is not a problem. Don't dump it straight onto the CPU
instead of a little on an towel so it doesn't get under the
heat spreader which would take far longer to dry, but you're
already making it more complicated that it needs to be.
Half the beauty of Arctic Silver is that is so easy to get
off.

70% alcohol would probably be IPA (hard to get hold of in the uk, and
sold as 'rubbing alcohol' in the us)- if I could get hold of it. Again,
not convinced about it being safe to inhale. My bottle of 99% IPA is
full of warnings. I also use polythene gloves when using it 'cos the
bottle says it's an irritant and to avoid contact with skin.

So i'd rather just use a paper towel, and do it indoors quickly. If it
doesn't make much difference.. I don't know how many cpu temp degrees
difference it makes.


<snip>

 

[kony]

oh ok
though if it drops the temp a couple of degrees it may be worth while.

If you're 2C within overheating you have a bigger problem
than how well you cleaned off the 'sink, and you'd have to
do a fairly poor job to get 2C difference, this is not a
hard task to do.

Incase the fan chooses to speed up - getting noisier - at a certain
temperature. So it'd be good if the average temp is sufficiently below
that temperature.

Again, you're putting WAY too much thought into this, you
will realize that after you've done it a few more times.

70% alcohol would probably be IPA (hard to get hold of in the uk, and
sold as 'rubbing alcohol' in the us)- if I could get hold of it. Again,
not convinced about it being safe to inhale. My bottle of 99% IPA is
full of warnings. I also use polythene gloves when using it 'cos the
bottle says it's an irritant and to avoid contact with skin.

So i'd rather just use a paper towel, and do it indoors quickly. If it
doesn't make much difference.. I don't know how many cpu temp degrees
difference it makes.

It is an easier task than the amount of thought you'd put
into it or writing about it. If you want an excuse not to
work on the system, just don't, no excuse needed... but this
is getting a bit ridiculous, you just pop off the sink, wipe
off the CPU and you're done. Being overly paranoid about it
won't have any real benefit, it's plainly obvious if the CPU
is clean "enough" on top or not just by eyeballing it for a
couple of seconds.

 

[jameshanley39]

If you're 2C within overheating you have a bigger problem
than how well you cleaned off the 'sink, and you'd have to
do a fairly poor job to get 2C difference, this is not a
hard task to do.


Again, you're putting WAY too much thought into this, you
will realize that after you've done it a few more times.



It is an easier task than the amount of thought you'd put
into it or writing about it. If you want an excuse not to
work on the system, just don't, no excuse needed... but this
is getting a bit ridiculous, you just pop off the sink, wipe
off the CPU and you're done. Being overly paranoid about it
won't have any real benefit, it's plainly obvious if the CPU
is clean "enough" on top or not just by eyeballing it for a
couple of seconds.

ok
thanks