vuescan v Dimage

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andre C
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A

Andre C

I remain struggling with Vuescan and my Scan Dual IV despite my
efforts. Basicially scans via Vuescan seem flat whereas using Dimage
software it is more 'dynamic.' I have twiddled the settings in Vuescan
with no result.

The other day I returned to Vuescan (latest version) and scanned in a
strip of Kodak Gold, setting the film option appropraitely. It was
flat and I was unable to lift it in photoshop.

I do feel I am missing something with Vuescan.

Any advice?
 
Andre C said:
I remain struggling with Vuescan and my Scan Dual IV despite
my efforts. Basicially scans via Vuescan seem flat whereas
using Dimage software it is more 'dynamic.'

VueScan attempts to capture the full density range of the film.
If that full range is squeezed into the more limited range of a
display or print, it will inevitably look dull. You'll need to apply a
tonemapping function, e.g. an S-shaped brightness curve.

Bart
 
Hi Andre:

What VueScan version are you using? What color tab settings are you
using? Usually a flat image can be "lifted" as you say by increasing
the black and white point percents, increasing brightness (actually
gamma), or using the curves low and high to increase contrast. Also
are you outputting your file with sRGB or AdobeRGB profiles? If you
use too large a gamut, the image will look flat.
I don't have a Scan Dual, but I suspect that the OEM software tweaks
the image more than the basic VueScan output.

Hope this helps.
 
Andre said:
I remain struggling with Vuescan and my Scan Dual IV despite my
efforts. Basicially scans via Vuescan seem flat whereas using Dimage
software it is more 'dynamic.' I have twiddled the settings in Vuescan
with no result.

The other day I returned to Vuescan (latest version) and scanned in a
strip of Kodak Gold, setting the film option appropraitely. It was
flat and I was unable to lift it in photoshop.

I do feel I am missing something with Vuescan.

Any advice?

There are various causes of "flat" images, but when you say you
couldn't do anything in Photoshop it sounds as though you may be
missing out on some basic image adjustment methods. What commands did
you use to add contrast?

Dimage clips negatives substantially, at least on my 5400. This would
make for slightly more contrasty images than more "professional"
methods, but the clipping alone shouldn't change a proper scan from
"flat" to contrasty.

Vuescan offers a great deal of manual control and thus a great many
ways to go wrong. Negative data is flat and compressed by nature; you
might be looking at the film "as is" due to too-conservative Vuescan
settings. Easy to fix in either VS or PS. Or Vuescan might be
outputting a linear image instead of one adjusted to your monitor. On
top of contrast problems, the result would be far too dark or light
(don't ask me which). Or it could be something Vuescan-specific, like
a bad exposure value...you'll need a VS user in that case.

Please post more details about how you attempted to fix the image in
PS. It will give some indication of your knowledge level and might
help pinpoint the VS settings you need to adjust.

false_dmitrii
 
Hi Andre:

What VueScan version are you using?

Standard, latest version?
What color tab settings are you using?

Don't know what you mean?
using the curves low and high to increase contrast.
I have just discovered this part of Vuescan and it does seem to lift
the photos.

are you outputting your file with sRGB or AdobeRGB profiles?

I don't think I can get that option in standard edition?
 
On 28 Feb 2006 15:13:36 -0800, (e-mail address removed) wrote:

Okay, I have vaguely suceeded in the curve business and seem to obtain
a scan in Vuescan which is equal to that in Diamge. I shall try a few
other scans which dissappointed me in past to see what happens.
Trouble is, if the results only equal Dimage and given that Dimage
inerface is beter (just) I don't see why I need to use Vuescan.

These are holiday snap negatives, some ten yers old plus and poorly
stored, so perhaps I am expecting too much.
 
Andre said:
On 28 Feb 2006 15:13:36 -0800, (e-mail address removed) wrote:

Okay, I have vaguely suceeded in the curve business and seem to obtain
a scan in Vuescan which is equal to that in Diamge. I shall try a few

This is as expected. Good work. :)
other scans which dissappointed me in past to see what happens.
Trouble is, if the results only equal Dimage and given that Dimage
inerface is beter (just) I don't see why I need to use Vuescan.

If you're happy with Dimage results, use Dimage. Vuescan offers more
control over the more subtle aspects of scanning and processing.

What does the histogram look like in Vuescan vs. Dimage output?
Compare in your image editor to even things out. Does the Vuescan
image's histogram have a much larger empty area or long one-pixel-high
trailing line on the right and/or left end? This would suggest that
the black and/or white point clipping % needs to be increased. If the
trailing regions are fairly long, simply bringing in the white/black
points can provide a huge improvement.
These are holiday snap negatives, some ten yers old plus and poorly
stored, so perhaps I am expecting too much.

Not at all. Your superior Dimage Scan output is a known quantity. If
it can be done in DS, it can be done in VS, regardless of the film's
physical quality. Don't give up. :)

I'm still not clear on your image editing proficiency. If curves and
histograms aren't second nature yet, browse www.scantips.com for some
good advice on their use. They're all you should need to fix most
contrast problems. VS, as noted before, has a number of additional
processing settings that can interact to affect final contrast.
"Brightness" may be the one to turn to after white/black clipping, but
again I can't say for sure.

false_dmitrii
 
Andre said:
I remain struggling with Vuescan and my Scan Dual IV despite my
efforts. Basicially scans via Vuescan seem flat whereas using Dimage
software it is more 'dynamic.' I have twiddled the settings in Vuescan
with no result.

The other day I returned to Vuescan (latest version) and scanned in a
strip of Kodak Gold, setting the film option appropraitely. It was
flat and I was unable to lift it in photoshop.

I do feel I am missing something with Vuescan.

Any advice?
In addition to the good advice you've received so far, here are some
specific settings to play with, just to give you a feel for some of the
things that affect image 'flatness'.

To get started, in each of the tabs in VS, go to the bottom and in
Options, select Advanced. This will make sure that you get to see all
of the possible settings. Next, press Ctrl-3, or select Image > Graph
Curve . Finally, do a preview scan, then click the Color tab.

OK, first, set Color Balance to White Balance. You can play with
different settings to see what changes.

Next, Curve low / high should default to .25 / .75. Try changing these
to .35 / .65. Note the change to the preview and note the Graph curve
at the bottom. Play with different settings.

Next, Try changing White point to 0.01, 0.1, 1.0, 10. Note changes.

Next, do the same for Black point. Maybe not as dramatic in my
experience, but in some shots, has a greater effect than in others.

Next change Brightness. Start at 1.0 and experiment in both directions.
For most of my Gold negs, I end up going down to maybe closer to .8-.9
for more density, but depends on other settings as well.

Those in my experience are the settings which you can tweak to get the
most effect on 'flatness'. If the preview does not refresh after you
make a setting change, you can force a refresh with Ctrl-E, or Image >
Refresh. Also, go to the Prefs tab and make sure that Refresh Delay is
set to something like 1 or 2 (seconds).

I'm using VS Pro, and I don't know what might be disabled for VS Std,
other than profiling capability, but I think all the settings I've
mentioned here are availale to you.

Let us know how this works for you. After you've played, if you report
back what you are still having problems with, maybe we can zero in a bit
more.
 
many thanks for all the comments. I feel I have sussed out the curves.

I have scanned a photo I was struggling with in using both progs. see
http://ccgi.andre02.plus.com/wordpress/?p=97 for the different
versions. (I don't know why one of the versions has jpg artifacts on
it when viewed sincethe same file on my desktop looks fine but that
is not important here.)

I have done these quite quickly, no dust removal cropping etc, and
resizing went a bit awry but the aim was to show the different
outcomes. Excluding the artifacts which one is more satisfying to you
all?

Sorry pics are big -broadband only really.

I have a fundamental understanding of histograms and usually I can
lift a pic in photoshop. Extensively using levels, hue saturation
control, exposure etc. No expert I should say. Curves not my fav in
PS, never used one yet with success.

In vuescan standard you cannot seelct which colour sytem to save in. I
wonder if that has any effect?

Andre
 
Andre said:
many thanks for all the comments. I feel I have sussed out the curves.

I have scanned a photo I was struggling with in using both progs. see
http://ccgi.andre02.plus.com/wordpress/?p=97 for the different
versions. (I don't know why one of the versions has jpg artifacts on
it when viewed sincethe same file on my desktop looks fine but that
is not important here.)

I have done these quite quickly, no dust removal cropping etc, and
resizing went a bit awry but the aim was to show the different
outcomes. Excluding the artifacts which one is more satisfying to you
all?

Sorry pics are big -broadband only really.

I have a fundamental understanding of histograms and usually I can
lift a pic in photoshop. Extensively using levels, hue saturation
control, exposure etc. No expert I should say. Curves not my fav in
PS, never used one yet with success.

In vuescan standard you cannot seelct which colour sytem to save in. I
wonder if that has any effect?

Andre


Hi Andre,

I took a look at each of your photo versions and had an initial
impression that the colors on Photo 2 were closer to correct. However,
I feel the real test is how well the images were captured, and thus how
much latitude you have to correct them via post processing, so I took
the liberty of downloading them and working with each. Here's what I found.

First of all, for reasons I don't understand, neither of them would open
in Photoshop 7. Got an 'error trying to parse jpg data' error. Never
saw that before, in thousands of images. However, I could convert them
to tif files in ThumbsPlus, then they loaded into PS7. Actually neither
here nor there as far as the issue we're discussing is concerned, but
nonetheless curious.

For each photo, I assigned an sRGB profile at import and worked in that
color space, just to keep it simple. For each photo, I created a levels
layer, to make initial coarse color and tone adjustments, and a curves
layer to set black and white points, do more detailed color tweaking,
and final adjustments to brightness and contrast. The Black point was
set to about 20,20,20 in the hedge above the black car's front wheel,
and the white point was set to about 240,240,240 at the highlight below
the driver's side mirror on the white car in the foreground. Once I got
the files loaded, I spent about 10 minutes struggling with Photo 1, and
about 2 minutes with Photo 2.

For Photo 1, I found significant clipping at both the black point and
the white point. For the white point, this is reflected in a pretty
significantly blown sky. Note the missing cloud at the horizon to the
right. Also, it caused me to essentially be unable to get the sky color
'correct'. This happens because the R, G & B components which make up
the sky aren't equal (not a pure gray sky), so some of the colors get
clipped more than others, causing a deviation (shift) to the color
balance of the sky compared to the overall color balance of the image.
Said another way, if the sky isn't blown, usually a global color
adjustment to get the trees, pavement, building, etc, into balance, will
also bring the sky pretty close. When the color balance of the sky has
been further altered compared to the rest of the image, that cannot
happen. For the black point, there is noticeably less shadow detail in
Photo 1 as compared to Photo 2. A look at the histogram, all 4 panes of
it, all show a piling up of pixels at both the white and black ends in
all channels, though the end points seem to have been 'pulled in' a
little bit. To me this suggests that perhaps the scan was clipped at
both ends by the scanner driver, then you perhaps pulled the ends back
in a bit using levels. But you know what driver settings you might have
set, and what you did in post processing. I'm just speculating.

For Photo 2, in spite of the jpg artifacts, I found the scan to be in
pretty good shape. I had no problem making reasonable color
corrections, and the histogram looked good. All four panels of the
histogram showed pixel count tapering off toward each end. By making a
global color correction, the sky came right in, and there to my eye is
clearly a lot more detail to be found in the deep shadows. The two
trees 'behind', in the deeper shadows, clearly have more definition to
the leaves, the top of the lower hedge, the shadow in the main entryway,
and so on.

So my conclusion, without knowing which driver goes with which photo, is
that whatever you did with Photo 2 gave you a pretty good result. For
the driver for Photo 1, I would suggest going back and seeing if you can
reset the white and black points to result in less clipping. As a
benchmark for you, and of course depending on the content of any
particular shot, in VueScan, my WP settings are often in the area of
..02%, and my BP settings are often in the range of .1-.2%. I don't
remember the DimageScan interface in terms of what it lets you set.

I think a lot of what I've just said would make more sense to you if you
could see the results I ended up with. Unfortunately, I don't have a
place to post the results. If you are willing to email your email
address to me, I would be happy to send them to you. My email is in the
header. I (perhaps foolishly) don't disguise it.

Hope this is useful to you, and sorry it got so long.

Mike
 
I took a look at each of your photo versions and had an initial
impression that the colors on Photo 2 were closer to correct.

I am not sure if this all comes down to eye of the beholder. Don't you
think that photo 2 has a green tint whilst photo 1 looks fresher? I
jsut feel that photo 2 lack oomph. Sorry can't be more arty with my
prose there!
First of all, for reasons I don't understand, neither of them would open
in Photoshop 7.

Yeah, I don't know either, both fine on my desktop. I have a suspicion
it is because I FTPed them in ANSI mode, not binary.
The Black point was
set to about 20,20,20 in the hedge above the black car's front wheel,
and the white point was set to about 240,240,240 at the highlight below
the driver's side mirror on the white car in the foreground.

How did you find that info in PS?
For Photo 1, I found significant clipping at both the black point and
the white point. For the white point, this is reflected in a pretty
significantly blown sky.

Agreed. A lot of my scans seem to blow the sky.

. For the black point, there is noticeably less shadow detail in
Photo 1 as compared to Photo 2. A look at the histogram, all 4 panes of
it, all show a piling up of pixels at both the white and black ends in
all channels, though the end points seem to have been 'pulled in' a
little bit. To me this suggests that perhaps the scan was clipped at
both ends by the scanner driver, then you perhaps pulled the ends back
in a bit using levels. But you know what driver settings you might have
set, and what you did in post processing. I'm just speculating.

Sorry can you explain what 4 panes of histograms. Are you in PS? Do
you mean RGB, R, G and B? Sorry that is my lack of PS knowledge.

With photo 1I have done no previous manip in PS. Time for confession.,
This is the one straight from Dimage. I think I might have minorly
tweaked the saturation aznd possibly bought in the ends of the
histopgram. I can't remember.
For Photo 2, in spite of the jpg artifacts, I found the scan to be in
pretty good shape. I had no problem making reasonable color
corrections, and the histogram looked good. All four panels of the
histogram showed pixel count tapering off toward each end. By making a
global color correction, the sky came right in, and there to my eye is
clearly a lot more detail to be found in the deep shadows. The two
trees 'behind', in the deeper shadows, clearly have more definition to
the leaves, the top of the lower hedge, the shadow in the main entryway,
and so on.
yes, I also feel there is more substance to photo 2 but I am not hit
by the vibrancy of it compared to photo 1.
So my conclusion, without knowing which driver goes with which photo, is
that whatever you did with Photo 2 gave you a pretty good result. For
the driver for Photo 1, I would suggest going back and seeing if you can
reset the white and black points to result in less clipping. As a
benchmark for you, and of course depending on the content of any
particular shot, in VueScan, my WP settings are often in the area of
.02%, and my BP settings are often in the range of .1-.2%. I don't
remember the DimageScan interface in terms of what it lets you set.

Photo 1 Dimage
Photo 2 vuescan.

I am left with the dilema. More detail in 2 but, to me at least, more
vibrancy in 1.

Andre
 
Andre said:
I am not sure if this all comes down to eye of the beholder. Don't you
think that photo 2 has a green tint whilst photo 1 looks fresher? I
jsut feel that photo 2 lack oomph. Sorry can't be more arty with my
prose there!

Yes, this always comes down to individual perceptions, as well as to
individual preferences, and also monitor calibration. And what a dull
world it would be if Dali and Monet painted the same style.

As I see it, without reference to 'right vs. wrong', I would say that
Photo 1 is quite biased toward extra red over the entire range, with the
sky additionally being clipped to 255 in the blues. I see Photo 2 as
having the mid-tones and shadows also quite biased toward red, and also
somewhat less so biased toward magenta (lacking green), with the sky
pretty good on the right side, and too yellow (lacking blue) on the left
(I assume an effect from the angle of the sun, perhaps). As far as
'fresher and 'oomph', I guess those are pretty subjective and dependent
on personal interpretation. I would say that Photo 1 looks more
contrasty to me. Maybe that's 'oomph'?
How did you find that info in PS?

Two parts to this answer. First, I would suggest you keep the info
palette open. It will display the RGB values for any point you hover
your cursor over. Very informative. I use it constantly.

Second, it would have been clearer if I had said 'I set the BP to
20,..." & "I set the WP to 240,..." Essentially, there's some logic
that says if you make the blacks black and the whites white (and
sometimes make the grays gray), then everything will fall pretty much
into place, and only minor adjustment will be remaining. You can find
the blackest area in your image by opening the levels dialog box (RGB
view) and holding down the Alt key while sliding the left of the 3
triangles, the whitest area by doing the same with the right triangle.
To set these areas to values you want (I do this in curves, but it can
be in levels, too), first set the values, then apply them. More
specifically, in either the levels or curves dialog box, look for the 3
eyedroppers at the lower right. Double click the left one (black) and
set the RGB values to 20,20,20 (or 15's, or 12's - your preference).
Set the right hand one (white) to 240,240 240 (or something else close,
but = values) This is a one time deal. PS will remember these until
you change them. Next, from levels or curves, click the black dropper
and then move your cursor over the blackest area of your image, which
you previously found. Check the info palette and move your cursor
around that area a bit to find the darkest pixels, or a pixel that seems
to be a good average of the range of darkest pixels, and click on it.
This will adjust the black point of your image to match what you've set.
Then click the white dropper and repeat for white. Your image will in
most cases just snap into pretty close color balance.
Agreed. A lot of my scans seem to blow the sky.

This is a philosophy thing. Many devices (read cameras, their firmware)
and scanner drivers and one-hour photo labs will clip the shadows and
highlights so they have a smaller range to fit into 255 degrees of
level. This makes the result look more contrasty (maybe oomph? or
snappier?) because if they discard the upper and lower tiers of
information, then they can put more space between what's left. Other
devices work to preserve all information, and must place it all into the
same 255 degrees of level, and it looks less contrasty (flatter?). Some
people prefer it one way, and some prefer it the other. The 'capture it
all' approach allows *you* to decide what you want to discard, and how
you want to discard it, via post processing. On the downside, it's
generally more work for you. Again, a personal preference thing, not a
right/wrong thing.
Sorry can you explain what 4 panes of histograms. Are you in PS? Do
you mean RGB, R, G and B? Sorry that is my lack of PS knowledge.

Yes, exactly, in PS. RGB, R, G, B. Sorry, my fault. 4 panes is not
'official' terminology. I was just trying to save words, and it was
confusing.
yes, I also feel there is more substance to photo 2 but I am not hit
by the vibrancy of it compared to photo 1.

Again, a personal preferences issue.
Photo 1 Dimage
Photo 2 vuescan.

I am left with the dilema. More detail in 2 but, to me at least, more
vibrancy in 1.

Andre

I can't help with this choice, but at the end of the day, you should use
the one which gives the visual interpretation, the 'message', that you
prefer. And it is often a trade-off.

As a possibility, you could try working with Photo 2 to see if you can
increase the vibrancy, thus ending up with the best of both. One way is
to change the Graph Low and Graph High points in VueScan to .35/.65, or
..4/.6, or something like that (more contrast) Another is to increase
the contrast of the image in Photoshop. If you aren't comfortable with
Curves, try using the Brightness/Contrast tool, though I can't really
condone using this tool, as it destroys data (it itself clips). If
you're willing to venture into curves, make a new curves adjustment
layer and on the RGB screen, set an anchor point right in the middle of
the diagonal line (just click there), then move up and right to the 3/4
point and click/grab the line and start dragging it up (make an 'S'
curve). This will increase contrast (making the curve 'steeper). As a
next step, you will probably notice that you have darkened the shadows
and lightened the highlights by doing this. You can play, if you want,
with painting out the areas that were 'damaged'. Select the adjustment
layer. Select a 100-200 pixel soft round brush (or whatever size fits
best), set the foreground color to black, and start painting away on
your image. Erase changes with white.

You could also play with Hue/Saturation.

And if all of this doesn't get you where you want to be, or if it
entails more effort than you'd prefer, then stick with the Photo 1
approach. As I've said, there's no right or wrong to any of this stuff.
Just go with what ultimately feels best for you.

Best of luck with your endeavors, and keep us posted on your results.

Regards,
Mike
 
Andre said:
Don't know what you mean?

When you are looking at the vuescan screen, there is a
"Colour" tab on the left half of the split screen, where all the
scan controls are.
I don't think I can get that option in standard edition?

Yes you can. Do please read the user's guide for vuescan.
It does a good job of explaining how to make it work
really well. There are also suggestions for workflow.

The "standard" you think you got is just a setting.
In the little dropdown menus of each tab,
there is an option for "Advanced". If you select
that, a whole new world of tweaking opens up.
But DO read the user guide before you start
tweaking!
 
Andre said:
Well I found a part that said colour space was only in the pro
edition. So I remain confused on that score.


Apologies, my bad:
you need the pro edition for colour space control.
 
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