Update: failed dvd drive photos

[James]

Righto guys I finally found some time to get the old dvd writer out, which
was no trouble, gave it a little shake and it rattles like a maracca

Turned into a a nightmare getting it out (not quite, but a pain) I had to
remove the PSU to slide it backwards as it wouldn't not slide forwards due
to the case design hitting the lower part of the surrounding of the drive.
Took me a few minutes to figure out what was up and managed to slide it
backwards after removing the psu. Quote nice getting to gripes with the
system after no doing much in this department for some years. Nothing has
changed much, all the same principles apply.

I have some photos to help identify what kind of drive I need to purchase to
replace it.

http://tinyurl.com/2ocf8u

All that dirt on the side is what came out of the casing on the fan, seems a
bit quieter after cleaning it all out I must admit.

From memory it looks like a IDE interface but I could very well be wrong.

I'd appreciate some help trying to identiy this cable to know what kinda of
dvd writer I should buy.

Thanks all for the continued help.

 

[dennis@home]

Righto guys I finally found some time to get the old dvd writer out, which
was no trouble, gave it a little shake and it rattles like a maracca

Turned into a a nightmare getting it out (not quite, but a pain) I had to
remove the PSU to slide it backwards as it wouldn't not slide forwards due
to the case design hitting the lower part of the surrounding of the drive.
Took me a few minutes to figure out what was up and managed to slide it
backwards after removing the psu. Quote nice getting to gripes with the
system after no doing much in this department for some years. Nothing has
changed much, all the same principles apply.

I have some photos to help identify what kind of drive I need to purchase
to replace it.

http://tinyurl.com/2ocf8u

All that dirt on the side is what came out of the casing on the fan, seems
a bit quieter after cleaning it all out I must admit.

From memory it looks like a IDE interface but I could very well be wrong.

I'd appreciate some help trying to identiy this cable to know what kinda
of dvd writer I should buy.

Thanks all for the continued help.

Its ide.
http://www.ebuyer.com/cat/CD---DVD-Drives/subcat/DVD-RW-IDE-Drives

 

[Kevin F Stubbs]

From memory it looks like a IDE interface but I could very well be wrong.

I'd appreciate some help trying to identiy this cable to know what kinda of
dvd writer I should buy.

Yep, that's an IDE cable. So a straight replacement would be an IDE/PATA
drive. As has been said earlier, there are any number of 20X DVD writers
around for around £20. Pick one that is the right colour and go spend
your money

Cheers

Kevin

 

[James]

Yep, that's an IDE cable. So a straight replacement would be an IDE/PATA
drive. As has been said earlier, there are any number of 20X DVD writers
around for around £20. Pick one that is the right colour and go spend your
money

Cheers

Kevin

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Just been broswing the drives, you certainly get a lot of bang for you buck
these days, once upon a time for a writer you have to spend silly money to
get these kind of specs.

Anyone had a go with this lightscibe technology ? worth it or just another
thing to go wrong ?

 

[Palindrome]

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Just been broswing the drives, you certainly get a lot of bang for you buck
these days, once upon a time for a writer you have to spend silly money to
get these kind of specs.

Anyone had a go with this lightscibe technology ? worth it or just another
thing to go wrong ?

I guess it depends on how you normally label your discs.

If you are happy to just scrawl on it with a permanent marker - then
there isn't going to be much point.

If you buy (expensive) labels and cover them in (expensive) inkjet ink,
then take a lot of time to stick them on, very carefully aligning them..

Only to find that, now and again, you have to repeat everything back to
rewriting a new disk because you have stuck the label on the wrong
side... BTDTGTTS.. then you might think the extra costs of lightscribe
to be worthwhile.

It does add a nice touch if you are producing disks to give someone
else, rather than purely for yourself. Plus, the cost of permanent
markers that have magically gone topless whilst sitting in the drawer
need to be factored in..


At least if you have a lightscribe drive, you have the choice.

 

[Iridium]

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Just been broswing the drives, you certainly get a lot of bang for you
buck these days, once upon a time for a writer you have to spend silly
money to get these kind of specs.

Anyone had a go with this lightscibe technology ? worth it or just another
thing to go wrong ?

They're worth buying from Play.com as delivery is still free

 

[Paul]

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Just been broswing the drives, you certainly get a lot of bang for you buck
these days, once upon a time for a writer you have to spend silly money to
get these kind of specs.

Anyone had a go with this lightscibe technology ? worth it or just another
thing to go wrong ?

I recommend reading the reviews for burners, on sites like cdfreaks.com .
They do error scans, so you can get some idea how well the burning process
is working. Generally, when you get a writer home, the first thing you do
is upgrade the firmware. That gives you the best media compatibility (since
the firmware upgrade adds the things they should have included in the first
place - it gives them a chance to finish product development, while
selling the drives at the same time).

I find error scans very important, and use an error scan when using a spindle
of new media. For example, I bought some CDs, and discovered they could only
be reliably burned at 4X. Which is fine, as long as I know that in advance.

Chances are, the media available at local stores, won't be exactly the same
as a CDFreaks article. By the time you buy sample media locally, and test them,
you spend more money on test media, than on the drive itself.

Doing error scans helps avoid the situation, where you do a backup of your
important files, and then six months from now, go to reach for the backup,
only to find the disc is unreadable. An error scan up front, helps warn you
of a marginal burn. But doesn't entirely protect you against media
degradation over time.

Paul

 

[Kevin F Stubbs]

If you buy (expensive) labels and cover them in (expensive) inkjet ink,

then take a lot of time to stick them on, very carefully aligning them..

Only to find that, now and again, you have to repeat everything back to
rewriting a new disk because you have stuck the label on the wrong
side... BTDTGTTS.. then you might think the extra costs of lightscribe
to be worthwhile.

I hope you don't actually do all that. Seriously ! Sticking labels onto
DVDs or CDs is a very bad idea. They can unbalance the disks, over time
the glue can damage the disk and they can come unstuck while spinning
inside the drive. I had all three happen over the short time I used
labels for CDs and DVDs. Just get a printer that can print directly onto
them. Inkjet printable blank disks are no longer significantly more
expensive than the regular shiny backed ones. Cheaper in some cases
I bought an Epson R200 for just that purpose when my old HP injet
finally packed up. Easier, cheaper and without all of the potential
problems later.

Cheers

Kevin

 

[Miles Bader]

Just get a printer that can print directly onto them. Inkjet
printable blank disks are no longer significantly more expensive than
the regular shiny backed ones.

How does that work exactly? Aren't disks rather thick, stiff, and
fragile for feeding into the gnashing wheels of a printer? Do modern
inkjet printers typically have an absolute straight-through feed path?

[Real question, btw, ... I basically only use the laser printers at
work, where the paper seems to be quite well-spindled and mutilated.]

Thanks,

-Miles

 

[Palindrome]

Just get a printer that can print directly onto them. Inkjet
printable blank disks are no longer significantly more expensive than
the regular shiny backed ones.

How does that work exactly? Aren't disks rather thick, stiff, and
fragile for feeding into the gnashing wheels of a printer? Do modern
inkjet printers typically have an absolute straight-through feed path?

[Real question, btw, ... I basically only use the laser printers at
work, where the paper seems to be quite well-spindled and mutilated.]

There are printers specifically designed for printing CDs. Typically
with a special tray to load the disc onto - so it goes in and out again
in a straight path.

 

[Palindrome]

I hope you don't actually do all that. Seriously ! Sticking labels onto
DVDs or CDs is a very bad idea. They can unbalance the disks, over time
the glue can damage the disk and they can come unstuck while spinning
inside the drive. I had all three happen over the short time I used
labels for CDs and DVDs. Just get a printer that can print directly onto
them. Inkjet printable blank disks are no longer significantly more
expensive than the regular shiny backed ones. Cheaper in some cases
I bought an Epson R200 for just that purpose when my old HP injet
finally packed up. Easier, cheaper and without all of the potential
problems later.

I've been doing it for years, using a "special applicator" ( ) that
aligns the label accurately to the disk. Plus using quality (Avery)
purpose-designed labels that have glue formulated not to come unstuck or
damage the disk.

I've never had a problem with many, many hundreds of disks - except the
aforementioned putting the label on the wrong side of a disk, once or twice.

A main part of the reason of using labels is that I have had many disks
damaged due to scratching over time of the top surface - which is, of
course, the data layer. Never had such a problem with one with a label
stuck on it.

So, for me, labels have prevented problems later - not created them. YMMV.

It is, of course, vital that the labels are good quality from a
reputable manufacturer and machine-accurate aligned when putting them on
the disk.

I'd actually rather trust Avery and its labels than some ink
manufacturer (who buys genuine printer-manufacturer ink?). And I woud
rather trust to the extra protection of a paper label layer than to the
physical protection offered by a layer of ink...

 

[James]

I guess it depends on how you normally label your discs.

If you are happy to just scrawl on it with a permanent marker - then there
isn't going to be much point.

If you buy (expensive) labels and cover them in (expensive) inkjet ink,
then take a lot of time to stick them on, very carefully aligning them..

Only to find that, now and again, you have to repeat everything back to
rewriting a new disk because you have stuck the label on the wrong side...
BTDTGTTS.. then you might think the extra costs of lightscribe to be
worthwhile.

It does add a nice touch if you are producing disks to give someone else,
rather than purely for yourself. Plus, the cost of permanent markers that
have magically gone topless whilst sitting in the drawer need to be
factored in..


At least if you have a lightscribe drive, you have the choice.

Thanks for the advice there Sue, I think you have a good point. I often lose
my permanent markers and end up not marking my discs and have to check them
physically in the drive what they are so lightscibe may solve some
frustration. I think I need to find out a bit more about lightscibe tbh, for
example I re-burn different things to the same disc often and am not sure
lightscibe I be written over ?

But I'll give it a bit more of a look, there not too much more expensive and
a nice feature.

I can't believe how cheap these drives are now, once upon a time there were
heaven and earth.

 

[John McGaw]

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Just been broswing the drives, you certainly get a lot of bang for you buck
these days, once upon a time for a writer you have to spend silly money to
get these kind of specs.

Anyone had a go with this lightscibe technology ? worth it or just another
thing to go wrong ?

LightScribe works pretty much as advertised but it is slow (_very_
slow!) and the discs seem to cost at least twice what "normal" discs do.
I have two writers that support it but after trying it a couple of times
I decided to go back to my nice cheap fast Casio thermal writer. I don't
think that simply having LightScribe in a drive would make it any less
reliable at least if it was never used. Prices today are amazing when I
look back at what I paid for my first Plextor DVD writer.

 

[dennis@home]

I've been doing it for years, using a "special applicator" ( ) that
aligns the label accurately to the disk. Plus using quality (Avery)
purpose-designed labels that have glue formulated not to come unstuck or
damage the disk.

I've never had a problem with many, many hundreds of disks - except the
aforementioned putting the label on the wrong side of a disk, once or
twice.

A main part of the reason of using labels is that I have had many disks
damaged due to scratching over time of the top surface - which is, of
course, the data layer. Never had such a problem with one with a label
stuck on it.

So, for me, labels have prevented problems later - not created them. YMMV.

It is, of course, vital that the labels are good quality from a reputable
manufacturer and machine-accurate aligned when putting them on the disk.

I'd actually rather trust Avery and its labels than some ink manufacturer
(who buys genuine printer-manufacturer ink?). And I woud rather trust to
the extra protection of a paper label layer than to the physical
protection offered by a layer of ink...

The problem with that is you are sticking a label on the delicate side of
the disk.
You can do lots of damage to the side the laser shines through and it will
still work or be fixable but very little to the label side.
Not that it stops me using a sharpie to write on them. ;-)

 

[dennis@home]

Thanks for the advice there Sue, I think you have a good point. I often
lose my permanent markers and end up not marking my discs and have to
check them physically in the drive what they are so lightscibe may solve
some frustration. I think I need to find out a bit more about lightscibe
tbh, for example I re-burn different things to the same disc often and am
not sure lightscibe I be written over ?

You can't over write the label side.
AFAIK its not possible to add stuff easily either as there is no index to
allow you to line the old and the new printing up.

 

[Ken Wright]

Thanks for the advice there Sue, I think you have a good point. I often

lose my permanent markers and end up not marking my discs and have to
check them physically in the drive what they are so lightscibe may solve
some frustration. I think I need to find out a bit more about lightscibe
tbh, for example I re-burn different things to the same disc often and am
not sure lightscibe I be written over ?

But I'll give it a bit more of a look, there not too much more expensive
and a nice feature.

I can't believe how cheap these drives are now, once upon a time there
were heaven and earth.

They really aren't worth more than a few seconds thought. DVD standards
seems to have settled down a lot more than they used to be, albeit still not
like CDs are. Whether its 18x 20x or 22x is completely by the by unless you
are going onto production. I still use 8x, even though my drives are
capable of much higher, but I get almost 0 coasters, and the higher speed
you burn the more you'll tend to get.

If you want lightscribe then fine, buy a drive that will do it and it's an
option for you, and it doesn't stop you buirning normal DVDs.

As far as media goes, it's still sometimes a case of getting a media to
match the drive, but it's a lot better than it used to be, and nowadays most
DVDs will burn in most drives, but don't think all DVDs are equal. I tend
to stick to anything with a Ritek G05 dye layer, and I have burnt a hell of
a lot of discs. G05 has for me been almost perfect, on a number of drives.
Depends what you want to put on the discs, but if it's photos and things you
want to keep, then stick to a good media (Taiyo Yuden being the best).
Don't rely on a single copy for a back up, do at least two if it's photos -
Discs are so cheap it's not true. My G05s are in the region of £6-£9 for a
spindle of 50. Taiyo Yudens are circa £10-£15 for similar. Ideal places to
buy at reasonable rates are places such as

http://svp.co.uk/
http://ukdvdr.co.uk/shop/

Excellent rates and excellent customer service - Google for independent
comments.

Example of discs I have had great results with:-
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?NOV-DVDG05

and these
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?RIT-DVD8FP

As far as the writer goes, spend £20 and get whatever colour suits you. My
advice would be to look for a bundle deal that gives you the latest cutdown
version of Nero - Can often be found bundled with a writer for little more
than a couple of quid different (literally)

Example of various drives around the £20 Mark

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/products/a946x1y0z1p0s0n0m0

Example of Liteon drive with Nero - Absolute steal at only £17
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?LIT-20A4PC

Another one:-
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?LIT-20XW

Only used Novatech as an example because it's near to me and I buy a lot of
stuff there. Both SVP and UKDVDR sell at similar prices. Any local
independent PC shop will probably be similar (No I don't mean PC World, who
will charge you the earth for some of this stuff, especially blank DVDs)

As for printing, an Epson R265 can be bought for circa £50 and will print
direct to DVD on a special tray. Epsons inks can be bought as compatibles
for next to nothing through either of those two sites (And plenty of other
places). With SVP, a full set of R265 inks (6 Cartridges) can be had for
about £15 (Jet Tecs, which are superb inks, and IMO easily rival Epsons own)

Regards
Ken....................

 

[al]

Righto guys I finally found some time to get the old dvd writer out, which
was no trouble, gave it a little shake and it rattles like a maracca

Turned into a a nightmare getting it out (not quite, but a pain) I had to
remove the PSU to slide it backwards as it wouldn't not slide forwards due
to the case design hitting the lower part of the surrounding of the drive.
Took me a few minutes to figure out what was up and managed to slide it
backwards after removing the psu. Quote nice getting to gripes with the
system after no doing much in this department for some years. Nothing has
changed much, all the same principles apply.

I have some photos to help identify what kind of drive I need to purchase to
replace it.

http://tinyurl.com/2ocf8u

All that dirt on the side is what came out of the casing on the fan, seemsa
bit quieter after cleaning it all out I must admit.

From memory it looks like a IDE interface but I could very well be wrong.

I'd appreciate some help trying to identiy this cable to know what kinda of
dvd writer I should buy.

Thanks all for the continued help.

Hi
Your supposed to remove the front bezel to get the drive out (it's a
packbell system).
You squeeze the clips either side of the bottom of hard drive.
HTH
Al

 

[James]

Righto guys I finally found some time to get the old dvd writer out, which
was no trouble, gave it a little shake and it rattles like a maracca

Turned into a a nightmare getting it out (not quite, but a pain) I had to
remove the PSU to slide it backwards as it wouldn't not slide forwards due
to the case design hitting the lower part of the surrounding of the drive.
Took me a few minutes to figure out what was up and managed to slide it
backwards after removing the psu. Quote nice getting to gripes with the
system after no doing much in this department for some years. Nothing has
changed much, all the same principles apply.

I have some photos to help identify what kind of drive I need to purchase
to
replace it.

http://tinyurl.com/2ocf8u

All that dirt on the side is what came out of the casing on the fan, seems
a
bit quieter after cleaning it all out I must admit.

From memory it looks like a IDE interface but I could very well be wrong.

I'd appreciate some help trying to identiy this cable to know what kinda
of
dvd writer I should buy.

Thanks all for the continued help.

Hi
Your supposed to remove the front bezel to get the drive out (it's a
packbell system).
You squeeze the clips either side of the bottom of hard drive.
HTH
Al

Hi Al,

Ahh that explains a lot, I seem to have done things the long way round or
stupid way looking back.

I'll go and stand in the corner with my han ds on my head lol.

 

[al]

Hi
Your supposed to remove the front bezel to get the drive out (it's a
packbell system).
You squeeze the clips either side of the bottom of hard drive.
HTH
Al

Hi Al,

Ahh that explains a lot, I seem to have done things the long way round or
stupid way looking back.

I'll go and stand in the corner with my han ds on my head lol.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -