temps and overheating at low load

[mechphisto]

I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!

From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:

Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58

When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.

After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.

So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam

 

[mechphisto]

Er, I meant Arctic Silver...not Frost.
And no, I'm not overclocking, BTW. It's all default BIOS settings.
(The BIOS won't allow overclocking anyway.)

I decided to run an SiS Sandra burn-in test, and during the CPU tests,
the temp climbed to 77C. Then dropped down to 57C during the rest of
the tests.

 

[BigJim]

something is holding the heat in, take off the side cover and run some
games.
See what happens.

 

[Paul]

I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!

From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:

Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58

When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.

After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.

So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam

A 6000+ has a TDP around 125W, so, yeah, it is going to get hot.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=34

The Prime95 test program can be used for stability testing.
Prime95 is available for both Linux and Windows, and mersenne.org
is the site to get it from.

http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htm

There are newer versions. For example, the freesoft page offers a Windows
version p95v2414.exe, while this directory has a multicore ready p95v255a.zip.
By naming convention, perhaps mprime254a.tar.gz would be a good candidate for
Linux testing, if that is your OS of choice.

http://www.mersenne.org/gimps/

Prime95 testing will tell you whether the CPU and memory are stable.
Prime95 stops on the first error it detects, when the Torture Test is
run. You should adjust the total memory tested, for best balance of
system response and test coverage (I set it for less memory, if I expect
to be doing other work on the machine at the same time).

Now, if Prime95 will run for four hours without failing, and yet a
game bombs in a matter of seconds, it it time to look either at
the power supply, or the video card and its drivers, as a possible
source of trouble.

If you want a cooler running processor, investing in an alternative
cooler is another answer. While features like Cool N' Quiet may
achieve good "system idle" performance thermally, as soon as the
system is loaded up, it will still get just as hot. And that is where
enhanced case cooling, and a better CPU cooler may help.

The various temperature monitoring programs may not be that
accurate, so when you list your temps above, I cannot tell from
that whether there is a real problem or not. Stick your finger
on the heatsink fins - does the heatsink temp to the touch, seem
consistent with the numbers shown ? If all the heatsinks are ice
cold, then the monitor program could be crap.

One observation you can make, is how fast the listed temps change
when a load is put on the processor. My CPU temp will start to move
pretty quickly, when Prime95 runs, while it may take several minutes
before my computer case temp changes by a degree or two. You can use
that to help convince yourself, which sensor is the CPU. But as far
as accuracy goes, it is par for the course for the programs to not
agree with one another.

Paul

 

[mechphisto]

I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!

From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:

Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58

When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.

After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.

So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam

A 6000+ has a TDP around 125W, so, yeah, it is going to get hot.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=34
[..snip..]
The various temperature monitoring programs may not be that
accurate, so when you list your temps above, I cannot tell from
that whether there is a real problem or not. Stick your finger
on the heatsink fins - does the heatsink temp to the touch, seem
consistent with the numbers shown ? If all the heatsinks are ice
cold, then the monitor program could be crap.

One observation you can make, is how fast the listed temps change
when a load is put on the processor. My CPU temp will start to move
pretty quickly, when Prime95 runs, while it may take several minutes
before my computer case temp changes by a degree or two. You can use
that to help convince yourself, which sensor is the CPU. But as far
as accuracy goes, it is par for the course for the programs to not
agree with one another.

Paul

Thanks for the reply and info!
I'll give those apps a try and see what results I get and report back.
I'm pretty certain Speedfan is reporting accurately, as if I reboot
and go into BIOS, the temps in there, while dropping pretty fast, look
like they're coming down from the same temps Speedfan was reporting
just a minute earlier.

I did try SiS Sandra, and the second it starts running, the CPU temp
starts climbing into the high 70's. When it starts testing something
non-CPU intensive, the temp drops pretty fast back down into the high
50's. But as soon as I try running something like a game the temp
immediately climbs up toward 80.

Thanks for the info!
-Liam

 

[mechphisto]

something is holding the heat in, take off the side cover and run some
games.

well, I took the side off, and nothing changed.
Which doesn't surprise me, and having no side kind of prevents the
channel of air that's supposed to be flowing throw the PC, right? So
the warm air just floats around in there?
So I guess this tells me that in any case, the air flow still isn't
good.
We have the PSU fan, of course, and one outgoing fan in the back below
that, and another outgoing fan on the side of the case, over the CPU
fan.
I'm going to try turning that around so it's blowing air into the CPU
fan area, and let the PSU and back fan pull it out.
Thanks for the reply!

 

[RobV]

I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!

From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:

Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58

When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.

After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.

So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam

I hate to say it, but the symptoms are exactly what I would expect if
the CPU heatsink/fan was not mounted correctly/had no compound. This
happened a lot when the AMD Tbred CPU was popular a few years ago.

I would remove and clean the Heatsink/fan, clean the CPU and use a new
*very thin* application of heatsink compound, just on the CPU (or
heatsink; personal preference) and mount it again, making sure it's
tight against the CPU at all points.

 

[mechphisto]

A 6000+ has a TDP around 125W, so, yeah, it is going to get hot.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=34

The Prime95 test program can be used for stability testing.
Prime95 is available for both Linux and Windows, and mersenne.org
is the site to get it from.

http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htm

[..snip..]

Huh, their site keeps timing out. Can't get to it.

The various temperature monitoring programs may not be that
accurate, so when you list your temps above, I cannot tell from
that whether there is a real problem or not. Stick your finger
on the heatsink fins - does the heatsink temp to the touch, seem
consistent with the numbers shown ? If all the heatsinks are ice
cold, then the monitor program could be crap.
[..snip..]

Paul

Well, sitting at the BIOS, temps listed at the mid 40s, I'm touching
the fins and they're very warm to hottish. I can rest my fingers on
them, but it's uncomfortable, and I wouldn't be able to if they are
any hotter.

This is after I completely cleaned the sink and the CPU and applied
Arctic Silver compound. (Completely even and extremely thin.)

So, if the fins are hot, I guess that means the sink is working,
drawing heat away from the processor. But the fan isn't doing a good
job?

Thanks for any feedback
-Liam

 

[mechphisto]

I hate to say it, but the symptoms are exactly what I would expect if
the CPU heatsink/fan was not mounted correctly/had no compound. This
happened a lot when the AMD Tbred CPU was popular a few years ago.

I would remove and clean the Heatsink/fan, clean the CPU and use a new
*very thin* application of heatsink compound, just on the CPU (or
heatsink; personal preference) and mount it again, making sure it's
tight against the CPU at all points.

Thanks for the reply and advice!
I initially just used the compound pre-applied to the bottom of the
sink. It was certainly on firmly; I had to move it around and pull to
break the connection between the sink and CPU.
I did clean both thoroughly, and then applied a VERY even and thin
layer of Arctic Silver compound, and made sure the sink was tight
against the CPU.

Now, no difference in the temps. It sits in BIOS at the high 30s, low
40s, in Windows doing nothing in the high 50s and low to mid 60s, and
doing the simplest of tasks, it heats up into the 70s and even 80.

And I trust Speedfan's temp numbers, as when I quickly reboot and get
into BIOS, it shows the CPU temp dropping from a range that matches
what Speedfan was saying.
Thanks for the reply
Liam

 

[Paul]

I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!
From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:
Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58
When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.
After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.
So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam

A 6000+ has a TDP around 125W, so, yeah, it is going to get hot.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=34
[..snip..]
The various temperature monitoring programs may not be that
accurate, so when you list your temps above, I cannot tell from
that whether there is a real problem or not. Stick your finger
on the heatsink fins - does the heatsink temp to the touch, seem
consistent with the numbers shown ? If all the heatsinks are ice
cold, then the monitor program could be crap.

One observation you can make, is how fast the listed temps change
when a load is put on the processor. My CPU temp will start to move
pretty quickly, when Prime95 runs, while it may take several minutes
before my computer case temp changes by a degree or two. You can use
that to help convince yourself, which sensor is the CPU. But as far
as accuracy goes, it is par for the course for the programs to not
agree with one another.

Paul

Thanks for the reply and info!
I'll give those apps a try and see what results I get and report back.
I'm pretty certain Speedfan is reporting accurately, as if I reboot
and go into BIOS, the temps in there, while dropping pretty fast, look
like they're coming down from the same temps Speedfan was reporting
just a minute earlier.

I did try SiS Sandra, and the second it starts running, the CPU temp
starts climbing into the high 70's. When it starts testing something
non-CPU intensive, the temp drops pretty fast back down into the high
50's. But as soon as I try running something like a game the temp
immediately climbs up toward 80.

Thanks for the info!
-Liam

I noticed in your description of your system cooling, you talk about fans.
But the other thing to consider, is whether there are sufficient intake
vents. A fan cannot work if it is starved.

On my computer, I have a single very powerful rear 120mm fan. When first
installed, when I closed the side of the case, the fan would speed up
(just like when you put your hand over the tip of a vacuum cleaner hose
while the vacuum cleaner is running). I removed the plastic lower piece
on the front of my computer, to provide more room for air movement
into the case.

When you use a "complicated" fan setup, sometimes the end result is not
always what you expected or wanted. On the one hand, the general principle,
is to have a front to back airflow, with the hard drives getting the
cool air at the front. But when you start adding fans in addition to that,
you have to consider the CFM rating and pressure drop characteristics
(and that stuff is over my head).

I had one case, where I installed a weak fan in the front of a case,
and after the system was fired up, air was moving backwards through
the new fan I added. And that tells you my "fan plan" must have
been pretty stupid. So at least to start, start simple. Use the
rear fan, run it at 100%, and see where your temperatures are at.

Because you say "the temps immediately climb", that doesn't sound
like the case cooling is the whole story. The immediate climb
almost sounds to me, like the heatsink isn't seated properly.
Are you using thermal paste, or whatever thermal interface material (TIM)
that was on the heatsink as shipped ? One thing I like to do, is put a
half grain-of-rice sized dot of paste, in the middle of the CPU
top surface, fit the heatsink into place and tighten it, then
disassemble again and look at the resulting pattern. If the stuff
didn't squish in a perfect circle, or if it looks thicker on one
side than the other, it could be a mechanical problem.

Paul

 

[RobV]

Thanks for the reply and advice!
I initially just used the compound pre-applied to the bottom of the
sink. It was certainly on firmly; I had to move it around and pull to
break the connection between the sink and CPU.
I did clean both thoroughly, and then applied a VERY even and thin
layer of Arctic Silver compound, and made sure the sink was tight
against the CPU.

Now, no difference in the temps. It sits in BIOS at the high 30s, low
40s, in Windows doing nothing in the high 50s and low to mid 60s, and
doing the simplest of tasks, it heats up into the 70s and even 80.

And I trust Speedfan's temp numbers, as when I quickly reboot and get
into BIOS, it shows the CPU temp dropping from a range that matches
what Speedfan was saying.
Thanks for the reply
Liam

I don't know what else to tell you. Speed Fan is good about getting the
correct temps. When the temp gets up to 70s and more, does the heatsink
feel really hot to touch (it should)? Trying to confirm if it's really
that hot, or just an error in the MB/BIOS. If it's really that hot, the
only three things that I know can cause it are over voltage to the CPU,
bad mount of HS/F, possibly a bad CPU (not very likely, but you never
know; it is possible).

 

[mechphisto]

(e-mail address removed) wrote:
I built a new system for a friend recently, with an Athalon 64 x2
6000+ and GIGABYTE GA-MA69VM-S2 AM2 mobo.
The system locks up and crashes when playing any game--including MSN
Web games!
From a cold boot the BIOS temps show both "system" and "CPU" at around
37C.
But once it boots into WindowsXP, simply sitting at rest, I get these
temps from Speedfan:
Temp1: 44
Temp2: 65
Temp3: 55
Core: 58
When I reboot and go into BIOS, I see the CPU temp around 58 and
dropping quickly until it sits around 42. The system temp is around
45.
After I built the system, I ran the Knoppix RAM test for 24 hours, and
rebooted into BIOS, and the system and CPU temps were both only in the
high 30's. The resting video card temp sits around 38C.
So, any advice? Those seem like awfully high Speedfan at-rest temps! I
used the thermal paste patch that came with the stock fan with the
CPU. I could scrape it off and use Arctic Frost, and maybe a new
fan...but I'd hate to dick around with the CPU again if I can help it.
But I seriously doubt there's an alternative.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
-Liam
A 6000+ has a TDP around 125W, so, yeah, it is going to get hot.
http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=34

[..snip..]
The various temperature monitoring programs may not be that
accurate, so when you list your temps above, I cannot tell from
that whether there is a real problem or not. Stick your finger
on the heatsink fins - does the heatsink temp to the touch, seem
consistent with the numbers shown ? If all the heatsinks are ice
cold, then the monitor program could be crap.
One observation you can make, is how fast the listed temps change
when a load is put on the processor. My CPU temp will start to move
pretty quickly, when Prime95 runs, while it may take several minutes
before my computer case temp changes by a degree or two. You can use
that to help convince yourself, which sensor is the CPU. But as far
as accuracy goes, it is par for the course for the programs to not
agree with one another.
Paul

Thanks for the reply and info!
I'll give those apps a try and see what results I get and report back.
I'm pretty certain Speedfan is reporting accurately, as if I reboot
and go into BIOS, the temps in there, while dropping pretty fast, look
like they're coming down from the same temps Speedfan was reporting
just a minute earlier.

I did try SiS Sandra, and the second it starts running, the CPU temp
starts climbing into the high 70's. When it starts testing something
non-CPU intensive, the temp drops pretty fast back down into the high
50's. But as soon as I try running something like a game the temp
immediately climbs up toward 80.

Thanks for the info!
-Liam

I noticed in your description of your system cooling, you talk about fans.
But the other thing to consider, is whether there are sufficient intake
vents. A fan cannot work if it is starved.

On my computer, I have a single very powerful rear 120mm fan. When first
installed, when I closed the side of the case, the fan would speed up
(just like when you put your hand over the tip of a vacuum cleaner hose
while the vacuum cleaner is running). I removed the plastic lower piece
on the front of my computer, to provide more room for air movement
into the case.

When you use a "complicated" fan setup, sometimes the end result is not
always what you expected or wanted. On the one hand, the general principle,
is to have a front to back airflow, with the hard drives getting the
cool air at the front. But when you start adding fans in addition to that,
you have to consider the CFM rating and pressure drop characteristics
(and that stuff is over my head).

I had one case, where I installed a weak fan in the front of a case,
and after the system was fired up, air was moving backwards through
the new fan I added. And that tells you my "fan plan" must have
been pretty stupid. So at least to start, start simple. Use the
rear fan, run it at 100%, and see where your temperatures are at.

Because you say "the temps immediately climb", that doesn't sound
like the case cooling is the whole story. The immediate climb
almost sounds to me, like the heatsink isn't seated properly.
Are you using thermal paste, or whatever thermal interface material (TIM)
that was on the heatsink as shipped ? One thing I like to do, is put a
half grain-of-rice sized dot of paste, in the middle of the CPU
top surface, fit the heatsink into place and tighten it, then
disassemble again and look at the resulting pattern. If the stuff
didn't squish in a perfect circle, or if it looks thicker on one
side than the other, it could be a mechanical problem.

Paul

Thanks for the reply!
Well, it appears to have been seated fine before, and my repasting and
reseating seems like a nice, firm, complete connection between CPU and
sink.

Air flow:
We have an outake on the side, one in the back (in addition to the
PSU). Unfortunately there is no front panel, nor any holes to draw in
from the front. But with the case closed, I am feeling air coming out
of all three fans.

CPU Fan: However, it does seem as though the CPU fan may not be
spinning all that much. Just from the looks of the spinning label, it
seems to be spinning slower than I would think. Slower than the
outtake fan in the back, I'm pretty sure.
While the

New temp sensor info:
I think I have better info on the sensors! Taking a closer look at
Speedfan, I found more descriptions of the temp sensors.
"Temp1-3" are marked as: Chip-IT8712F-J, BUS-ISA
The "Core" temp is labeled: AMD K8, Bus: PCI

The Core temp climbs into the 60's, but it's that Temp 2 that peaks
into the 80s.
While the copper fins of the CPU heatsink are hot to the touch, the
silver (aluminum?) fins of the two other processor heatsinks on the
mobo or freakin' burning to the touch!
(Two southboard processors?)
I guess I can try to see about replacing those with copper, or getting
fans on them. But the bigger of the two is literally right nect to the
video card, and I don't think a fan will fit.

But based on how freakin hot they are, I'm guessing they're the root
of the problem!
(Although, I still think the CPU fan could be going a bit faster and
moving more air.)

Thanks for any advice,
Liam

 

[mechphisto]

I don't know what else to tell you. Speed Fan is good about getting the
correct temps. When the temp gets up to 70s and more, does the heatsink
feel really hot to touch (it should)? Trying to confirm if it's really
that hot, or just an error in the MB/BIOS. If it's really that hot, the
only three things that I know can cause it are over voltage to the CPU,
bad mount of HS/F, possibly a bad CPU (not very likely, but you never
know; it is possible).

Thanks for replying.
Yeah, the copper CPU heatsink is hot. When the BIOS temps say it's
around 30-40, I can keep my finger on it. When Speedfan says it's
65-80, I can barely touch it for more than a second or two.

But the thing I just found out, I think the "Temp1-3" sensors on
Speedfan aren;t for the CPU, but other board processors. I tried
touching the aluminum(?) heatsinks on the other largish chips on the
mobo (they don't have fans) and they're absolutely burning to the
touch.
I think the "Core" temp in SPeedfan is the CPU, and it doesn't get
much above 58. The one getting above 70s and to 80 must be that
largish chip sitting right above the videocard slot. I'm going to try
to get a fan on it, but it's so close to the vidcar, I doubt it will
fit! =(

Thanks for the advice!
Liam

 

[Paul]

Thanks for replying.
Yeah, the copper CPU heatsink is hot. When the BIOS temps say it's
around 30-40, I can keep my finger on it. When Speedfan says it's
65-80, I can barely touch it for more than a second or two.

But the thing I just found out, I think the "Temp1-3" sensors on
Speedfan aren;t for the CPU, but other board processors. I tried
touching the aluminum(?) heatsinks on the other largish chips on the
mobo (they don't have fans) and they're absolutely burning to the
touch.
I think the "Core" temp in SPeedfan is the CPU, and it doesn't get
much above 58. The one getting above 70s and to 80 must be that
largish chip sitting right above the videocard slot. I'm going to try
to get a fan on it, but it's so close to the vidcar, I doubt it will
fit! =(

Thanks for the advice!
Liam

A surface temp of 60C to 65C is uncomfortable for more than about
2 seconds or so. You can use that to guess at the surface temp of
the heatsink. The chip underneath it could be 25 to 35C hotter than
that.

I'd mount a fan to give a heatsink that burns me, more cooling air.
Even on some older computers, I'd had to lodge an extra fan here or
there. On my current video card, I installed a fan next to it, not
because the video cards own fan wasn't working, but because there was
a burning hot component that did not receive any cooling. With a
fan mounted next to it, the component is no longer burning hot. You
can use your best judgment as to where and how many fans to use.

For your CPU and heatsink, it sounds like perhaps the fan is not
spinning at full speed. There are a number of possibilities
as to why that might be:

1) You're using SpeedFan. Is the CPU speed under Speedfan control ?

2) The motherboard has a four pin header. Chances are, it implements
fan control via the PWM pin. The 12V pin should deliver
the full 12V if that is the case. If the BIOS shows more than one
control method, select a BIOS setting that uses the fourth PWM pin
if possible. (Or, disable fan control, so the fan will run at full
speed.) So see if the BIOS has a hand in this.

3) Some fans sense the computer case air temp, and the fan blade
speeds up if the case air temp increases. For a fan like that,
without modification, it can be hard to get more speed out of it.
One hack for that, is to short out the thermistor inside the fan hub,
which forces the fan to run at full speed all the time. Once that
is done, you can use some other method (like Speedfan or a BIOS
function) and take control of the fan via PWM. At least, in an
Intel description, they say the thermistor is in control if PWM
is not operating, while if PWM pulses are sent, the PWM controls
things. I'm not aware of AMD making a description of their fan
operation available for public consumption, so I don't know what
features it has got.

You could try running the CPU fan off a Molex disk drive power
connector, but what you would need in that case, is to connect
the tacho signal to the CPU fan header. The BIOS wants to see a
fan RPM pulse on the tacho wire, in order to allow the system
to continue running. Some boards shut off if the fan is
disconnected entirely. Seeing tacho pulses is enough to keep
it going. In a pinch, you can even connect a three wire case
fan to the CPU header, to fool it into accepting the pulses
from a case fan. Not too many case fans have the third wire
(at least the ones I own don't have it).

Maybe you can just hold a spare 80mm or 120mm fan close to the
CPU, while you run a few experiments. If the air from a fan
like that is seriously dropping the temp, then you know that is
what needs to be fixed.

Paul

 

[peter]

Having read thru the multitude of posts the only info missing is the case
you are using.
From my experience and judging by your symptons you do not have a sufficient
supply of cool air blowing across the CPU heatsink..The side fan can be
reversed to blow cool air in.and see if that helps...and it might providing
the back exhaust fan is not so powerfull that it sucks the cool air out
before it can reach the CPU Cooling..so you need to look at the CFM of both
fans ..the side fan should be slightly stronger than the back exhaust.
The speed of the CPU fan can be regulated usually in the BIOS...maybe you
have it set at 50%...I usually let the BIOS run the CPU fan at 100% all the
time....or its a 3 pin fan on a 4pin plug????

Having said all of that I would seriously consider a new better ventilated
case one that has a 120mm front intake as well as a rear 120mm exhaust.I
would also be looking at changing the CPU heatsink and fan....these people
make great inexpensive coolers
Its xmas buy yourself a present!!
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/product_cpu_cooler.html

http://www.newegg.com/Store/Category.aspx?Category=9&name=Computer-Cases

peter

 

[mechphisto]

Having read thru the multitude of posts the only info missing is the case
you are using.
From my experience and judging by your symptons you do not have a sufficient
supply of cool air blowing across the CPU heatsink..The side fan can be
reversed to blow cool air in.and see if that helps...and it might providing
the back exhaust fan is not so powerfull that it sucks the cool air out
before it can reach the CPU Cooling..so you need to look at the CFM of both
fans ..the side fan should be slightly stronger than the back exhaust.
The speed of the CPU fan can be regulated usually in the BIOS...maybe you
have it set at 50%...I usually let the BIOS run the CPU fan at 100% all the
time....or its a 3 pin fan on a 4pin plug????

Having said all of that I would seriously consider a new better ventilated
case one that has a 120mm front intake as well as a rear 120mm exhaust.I
would also be looking at changing the CPU heatsink and fan....these people
make great inexpensive coolers
Its xmas buy yourself a present!!http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/product_cpu_coole...

http://www.newegg.com/Store/Category.aspx?Category=9&name=Computer-Cases

peter

Thanks for the suggestions!
Yeah, the case is not good. Not only is there no front intake fan, but
there's not even a front grill.
Well, there's a thin opening at the front bottom where air can be
pulled in from...but there's a LOT more open holes in the back of the
case that would be the path of least resistance.
What I did was remove the side fan and attach it to the 2nd back fan
position and cover over the side hole.
So I have three fans, including PSU, at the rear pulling air from the
front.

However, it seems the problem isn't the CPU at all. (Although a better
fan on that can never hurt.)
It appears to be the North and Southbridge chips. They're the ones
that have the temp sensors heading into the 80's and even 90's.
They're burning hot to the touch; so much that I really think they
could start a fire if anything flammable touched them--so it's not a
sensor malfunction.

I bought him a 40mm fan that I planned to screw into the Northbridge
sink, but just resting the fan on the sink appears not to make any
difference to its temp.
So...climax of this story: Before I go and damage his heat sinks by
moding a fan into them, the mobo's new enough that he's going to just
RMA it for a new board. This was a Giga-something. I've always had
excellent experiences with MSI and especially Epox, so I recommended
that he read some Newegg reviews on a few and exchange it. I just
think there's no hope for thi board.

Thanks for the replies, all!
-Liam