System won't boot? Mobo and PSU are brand new.

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FTMichael

A week or so ago, I came home and found my computer dead and unwilling
to boot. Testing, and replacing the PSU, indicated that the mobo had
become broken somehow. I replaced the mobo, putting in my old CPU and
RAM (yes, they're compatible), and now the fans power on, which is an
improvement, but it won't boot at all - not even to BIOS.

I tried unplugging the drives in case the PSU was rated too low (300W,
same as my old one), but that didn't help. I checked the memory and
it's seated fine. I would really rather not buy a new CPU if I don't
have to, but if it's not that the CPU has somehow magically died, I
don't have any idea what the problem is. The heatsink was secure on
the old mobo and is secure on the new one, so I'm not sure how the CPU
could have overheated. I get no output to my monitor at all - it
seems to do nothing at all except power the fans when I press the
power button - so I have no idea what temperature it's at.

The motherboard has a digital display on it which is supposed to give
a one- or two-digit code to indicate why it won't boot, but it just
says 88, which isn't a code - it's just lighting up the whole
display. So I'm assuming that it hasn't even got that far, and just
has power but isn't even starting any sort of boot attempt. /Could/
it be anything but the CPU at this point?

Thanks in advance!

Michael
 
FTMichael said:
A week or so ago, I came home and found my computer dead and unwilling
to boot. Testing, and replacing the PSU, indicated that the mobo had
become broken somehow. I replaced the mobo, putting in my old CPU and
RAM (yes, they're compatible), and now the fans power on, which is an
improvement, but it won't boot at all - not even to BIOS.

I tried unplugging the drives in case the PSU was rated too low (300W,
same as my old one), but that didn't help. I checked the memory and
it's seated fine. I would really rather not buy a new CPU if I don't
have to, but if it's not that the CPU has somehow magically died, I
don't have any idea what the problem is. The heatsink was secure on
the old mobo and is secure on the new one, so I'm not sure how the CPU
could have overheated. I get no output to my monitor at all - it
seems to do nothing at all except power the fans when I press the
power button - so I have no idea what temperature it's at.

The motherboard has a digital display on it which is supposed to give
a one- or two-digit code to indicate why it won't boot, but it just
says 88, which isn't a code - it's just lighting up the whole
display. So I'm assuming that it hasn't even got that far, and just
has power but isn't even starting any sort of boot attempt. /Could/
it be anything but the CPU at this point?

Thanks in advance!

Michael
Click to expand...


I'd rather ask than assume.
Have you made sure that the cpu 4 pin square power plug is connected?
 
FTMichael said:
A week or so ago, I came home and found my computer dead and unwilling
to boot. Testing, and replacing the PSU, indicated that the mobo had
become broken somehow. I replaced the mobo, putting in my old CPU and
RAM (yes, they're compatible), and now the fans power on, which is an
improvement, but it won't boot at all - not even to BIOS.

I tried unplugging the drives in case the PSU was rated too low (300W,
same as my old one), but that didn't help.
Click to expand...

When you say the PSU is 300W same as the old one is it the exact same MODEL?
There can be a huge difference in power supplies if both claim to be 300W
and 300W is not enough to power any current system. -Dave
 
The 20-pin and the separate 4-pin power connectors are both securely
plugged into the mobo, yes. The CPU and case fans are plugged into
the mobo, and power on beautifully when I press the case power button
or the mobo power button (yes, there's a button on the mobo - I had
never seen that before), so the power's getting through the mobo to
the fans, at least. That's why I'm so concerned that it's a CPU
issue.

The PSU is indeed the same exact model as the old one - I wasn't sure
what else to get! 300W was completely fine powering my system before
it broke, and the problem was determined to be the old mobo, not the
old PSU. I know any number of people who are using 300W and running
fine. I don't game or overclock and it's never been an issue. Plus,
unplugging the drives - so only the mobo was connected to the PSU -
was intended to test just that, and it made no difference, so unless
300W is no longer enough to even power the mobo (which it absolutely
is), that isn't the issue.

Michael
 
FTMichael said:
The 20-pin and the separate 4-pin power connectors are both securely
plugged into the mobo, yes. The CPU and case fans are plugged into
the mobo, and power on beautifully when I press the case power button
or the mobo power button (yes, there's a button on the mobo - I had
never seen that before), so the power's getting through the mobo to
the fans, at least. That's why I'm so concerned that it's a CPU
issue.

The PSU is indeed the same exact model as the old one - I wasn't sure
what else to get! 300W was completely fine powering my system before
it broke, and the problem was determined to be the old mobo, not the
old PSU. I know any number of people who are using 300W and running
fine. I don't game or overclock and it's never been an issue. Plus,
unplugging the drives - so only the mobo was connected to the PSU -
was intended to test just that, and it made no difference, so unless
300W is no longer enough to even power the mobo (which it absolutely
is), that isn't the issue.

Michael
Click to expand...

Do you have any idea why the computer may have died? You replaced the PSU
with a 'new' one or one that you knew was working? If the PSU was new have
you tested the replacement PSU to see if you have current at all voltage
pins and they are the proper voltage ratings? What make and model mb is
this, and what cpu is installed?
 
A week or so ago, I came home and found my computer dead and unwilling
to boot. Testing, and replacing the PSU, indicated that the mobo had
become broken somehow. I replaced the mobo, putting in my old CPU and
RAM (yes, they're compatible), and now the fans power on, which is an
improvement, but it won't boot at all - not even to BIOS.

I tried unplugging the drives in case the PSU was rated too low (300W,
same as my old one), but that didn't help. I checked the memory and
it's seated fine. I would really rather not buy a new CPU if I don't
have to, but if it's not that the CPU has somehow magically died, I
don't have any idea what the problem is. The heatsink was secure on
the old mobo and is secure on the new one, so I'm not sure how the CPU
could have overheated. I get no output to my monitor at all - it
seems to do nothing at all except power the fans when I press the
power button - so I have no idea what temperature it's at.

The motherboard has a digital display on it which is supposed to give
a one- or two-digit code to indicate why it won't boot, but it just
says 88, which isn't a code - it's just lighting up the whole
display. So I'm assuming that it hasn't even got that far, and just
has power but isn't even starting any sort of boot attempt. /Could/
it be anything but the CPU at this point?

Thanks in advance!

Michael
Click to expand...

Go over the MB booklet, or with a couple magnifying glasses and lamp,
for MB jumpers and re-check all the pin-configurations on the mb.
Including reset the CMOS. Check the standoffs or pull MB partially
out and try a boot. Especially check all the connectors - the case
connectors. Sometimes one can be reversed for ground and fix it.
Does the MB chipset revision support the CPU? Bring them up first
bare as possible before adding a ton of plugins. PWR-Good strobe is
particular to ATX PS. When AC outlet is plugged into and the fans
come (before PWR button is hit) it's a logic mismatch thing. Unplug
again and/or hit the case PWR-ON switch until it gets past it with the
next sequence, a single beep from MB piezo spkr.
 
FTMichael said:
A week or so ago, I came home and found my computer dead and unwilling
to boot. Testing, and replacing the PSU, indicated that the mobo had
become broken somehow. I replaced the mobo, putting in my old CPU and
RAM (yes, they're compatible), and now the fans power on, which is an
improvement, but it won't boot at all - not even to BIOS.

I tried unplugging the drives in case the PSU was rated too low (300W,
same as my old one), but that didn't help. I checked the memory and
it's seated fine. I would really rather not buy a new CPU if I don't
have to, but if it's not that the CPU has somehow magically died, I
don't have any idea what the problem is. The heatsink was secure on
the old mobo and is secure on the new one, so I'm not sure how the CPU
could have overheated. I get no output to my monitor at all - it
seems to do nothing at all except power the fans when I press the
power button - so I have no idea what temperature it's at.

The motherboard has a digital display on it which is supposed to give
a one- or two-digit code to indicate why it won't boot, but it just
says 88, which isn't a code - it's just lighting up the whole
display. So I'm assuming that it hasn't even got that far, and just
has power but isn't even starting any sort of boot attempt. /Could/
it be anything but the CPU at this point?

Thanks in advance!

Michael
Click to expand...


bench the MB and test out of the case
 
Hardware specs:
PSU (brand new): POWMAX LP6100C ATX 300W -
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16817163012
Mobo (brand new): XFX MG-630i-7109 LGA 775 -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813141007
CPU (5 months old): Intel Pentium E2140 Allendale LGA 775 Dual-Core -
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116037

I checked the jumpers - there are only two - and they're fine. No
burst capacitors or anything. The fans don't come on just by plugging
it in; they come on when I press the power button. Given that the
fans stay on until I manually power off the machine, I don't see why
it would be grounding out on the case or anything.

Michael
 
FTMichael said:
Hardware specs:
PSU (brand new): POWMAX LP6100C ATX 300W -
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16817163012
Mobo (brand new): XFX MG-630i-7109 LGA 775 -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813141007
CPU (5 months old): Intel Pentium E2140 Allendale LGA 775 Dual-Core -
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116037

I checked the jumpers - there are only two - and they're fine. No
burst capacitors or anything. The fans don't come on just by plugging
it in; they come on when I press the power button. Given that the
fans stay on until I manually power off the machine, I don't see why
it would be grounding out on the case or anything.

Michael
Click to expand...

A $14.00 power supply ?

A Powmax ?

Reviews here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817163012

"Powmax" is Tier 5, A.K.A "Not Recommended".
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108088

When the POST display on your motherboard won't update, all we
can say, is the CPU was not able to execute any BIOS code. The
POST display gets updated, as BIOS code is executed. The codes
displayed, are "progress" codes, and not "error" codes as such.
If the display stops at a certain level of "progress", then
you'd assume a failure occurring in the routine that last
executed.

Since the POST display is not changing, then chances are the
processor is not coming out of reset. To come out of reset, the
"power chain" has to be happy. The power supply puts out a signal
called Power Good, for example. The switching converter next to the
processor, may also contribute its own status signal to the mix as
well. When all the power subsystems are happy, then the board can
start.

For any person doing home builds, inevitably they end up in a
situation, where they replace everything. (I've done that.) That
is when a home build becomes expensive. But starting with a $14
power supply, is just *asking* for trouble.

So, go back and verify both the main power connector and the 2x2
ATX12V connector are both connected. If it still won't start, I'd
try to borrow another ATX from somewhere.

If you have a multimeter, you can also measure the voltages while it
is sitting there with the fans running.

Hmmm. I see the motherboard has a 2x4 for the ATX12V. The 2x2 from the
power supply, goes into one end of the connector. There should have been
a sticker, covering 4 of the 8 holes. And the manual should identify
where a 2x2 would go.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/13-141-007-19.jpg

The stinking EVGA manual, doesn't identify here to plug a 2x2.

http://www.xfxsupportb.co.uk/MCP73 Series_Ver10 070928.pdf

On an Asus manual I have here, the picture looks like this. The
"LL" identifies the plastic latch. I expect the latch on the
power supply connector, would fit if plugged with its latch on
the same side. The plastic has shapes, to help guide mating only
one way.

LL
X X X X
X X X X
\ / \ /
\/ \/
Remove Plug
cover 2x2
if power
using here
2x4
power

2x2 power is plenty for an E2140 processor.

And if you still have doubts about the power connection, contact
EVGA tech support, and get them to provide the necessary info.

HTH,
Paul
 
Paul said:
A $14.00 power supply ?

A Powmax ?

Reviews here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16817163012

"Powmax" is Tier 5, A.K.A "Not Recommended".
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108088

When the POST display on your motherboard won't update, all we
can say, is the CPU was not able to execute any BIOS code. The
POST display gets updated, as BIOS code is executed. The codes
displayed, are "progress" codes, and not "error" codes as such.
If the display stops at a certain level of "progress", then
you'd assume a failure occurring in the routine that last
executed.

Since the POST display is not changing, then chances are the
processor is not coming out of reset. To come out of reset, the
"power chain" has to be happy. The power supply puts out a signal
called Power Good, for example. The switching converter next to the
processor, may also contribute its own status signal to the mix as
well. When all the power subsystems are happy, then the board can
start.

For any person doing home builds, inevitably they end up in a
situation, where they replace everything. (I've done that.) That
is when a home build becomes expensive. But starting with a $14
power supply, is just *asking* for trouble.

So, go back and verify both the main power connector and the 2x2
ATX12V connector are both connected. If it still won't start, I'd
try to borrow another ATX from somewhere.

If you have a multimeter, you can also measure the voltages while it
is sitting there with the fans running.

Hmmm. I see the motherboard has a 2x4 for the ATX12V. The 2x2 from the
power supply, goes into one end of the connector. There should have been
a sticker, covering 4 of the 8 holes. And the manual should identify
where a 2x2 would go.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/13-141-007-19.jpg

The stinking EVGA manual, doesn't identify here to plug a 2x2.

http://www.xfxsupportb.co.uk/MCP73 Series_Ver10 070928.pdf

On an Asus manual I have here, the picture looks like this. The
"LL" identifies the plastic latch. I expect the latch on the
power supply connector, would fit if plugged with its latch on
the same side. The plastic has shapes, to help guide mating only
one way.

LL
X X X X
X X X X
\ / \ /
\/ \/
Remove Plug
cover 2x2
if power
using here
2x4
power

2x2 power is plenty for an E2140 processor.

And if you still have doubts about the power connection, contact
EVGA tech support, and get them to provide the necessary info.

HTH,
Paul
Click to expand...

My mistake. THe two references to "EVGA" above, should have been "XFX".

Paul
 
My previous PSU was the same model, and is now a few years old and
still working perfectly. I replaced it because I thought it was the
problem, but it's not. It's never been a problem at all.

It is a 2x4 rather than a 2x2 jack, but the 2x2 plug from the PSU only
fits in one way, so it was easy to be sure I'd plugged it in
properly. The mobo user manual says using a 2x2 plug rather than a
2x4 is completely fine.

Probably also worth mentioning, which I didn't before - when I hit the
power button, not only do the fans come on, but the power light and
HDD light on the case come on. The HDD isn't actually doing anything,
but the HDD light comes on steady - no flickering or blinking at all.
Also, my speakers, which are powered via USB, turn on. No sound, but
their power light is on. So power is travelling through the mobo to
all various things, but it's not booting.

Michael
 
FTMichael said:
My previous PSU was the same model, and is now a few years old and
still working perfectly. I replaced it because I thought it was the
problem, but it's not. It's never been a problem at all.

It is a 2x4 rather than a 2x2 jack, but the 2x2 plug from the PSU only
fits in one way, so it was easy to be sure I'd plugged it in
properly. The mobo user manual says using a 2x2 plug rather than a
2x4 is completely fine.

Probably also worth mentioning, which I didn't before - when I hit the
power button, not only do the fans come on, but the power light and
HDD light on the case come on. The HDD isn't actually doing anything,
but the HDD light comes on steady - no flickering or blinking at all.
Also, my speakers, which are powered via USB, turn on. No sound, but
their power light is on. So power is travelling through the mobo to
all various things, but it's not booting.

Michael
Click to expand...


I tried going to the XFX support website to download the manual for your mb,
but rather than the searchbot simply allowing use of a model number the it
wanted a serial number which I was unable to provide.
Noting that your mb version requires an 8 pin cpu power plug I would
attempt to get the adaptor, even though you mention that the user manual
says a 2X2 is fine. I'm still skeptical as to whether the new, inexpensive
PSU is actually giving you proper voltages. I have seen enough 'new' PSU's
not working from the start, to question it again to you, until you or
someone else has checked out the voltages with a multimeter.
 
FTMichael said:
My previous PSU was the same model, and is now a few years old and
still working perfectly. I replaced it because I thought it was the
problem, but it's not. It's never been a problem at all.

It is a 2x4 rather than a 2x2 jack, but the 2x2 plug from the PSU only
fits in one way, so it was easy to be sure I'd plugged it in
properly. The mobo user manual says using a 2x2 plug rather than a
2x4 is completely fine.

Probably also worth mentioning, which I didn't before - when I hit the
power button, not only do the fans come on, but the power light and
HDD light on the case come on. The HDD isn't actually doing anything,
but the HDD light comes on steady - no flickering or blinking at all.
Also, my speakers, which are powered via USB, turn on. No sound, but
their power light is on. So power is travelling through the mobo to
all various things, but it's not booting.

Michael
Click to expand...


do you have a floppy drive connected?
I would start stripping it down to min. POST requirements

CPU /HS-fan- 1 stick mem -PSU- video

try and post
 
I have the same problem, one day my PC just died wouldn't boot, no beep
Ive replaced the Motherboard, PSU, CPU in that order, pretty much buil
a new pc. Surprising it still doesnt't post, even when theres only th
PSU,CPU,RAM connected.

I have a AMD athlon 64,
CHAINTECH VNF4 Ultra 939 NVIDIA nForce4
Foxconn 939 NVIDIA GeForce 6150B
350 watt PSU
500 watt PS
 
After all that work, you still don't know what is good or bad. Then
replaced parts only on speculation. For example, a defeictive supply
will still power disks and spin fans. But it is still defective.
Furthermore, its a power supply 'system'. Power supply is only one
part.

Best is to establish what is good. Not maybe good. Good must be so
definitive that we never look back. Paul suggested a multietmer.
Well that tool is so ubiquitious as to be sold from Radio Shack and
Lowes to Sears and even K-mart. Or maybe only $17 in Wal-mart. IOW
no good reason to avoid two minutes with a meter as in "When your
computer dies without warning....." starting 6 Feb 2007 in the
newsgroup alt.windows-xp at:
http://tinyurl.com/yvf9vh
Connector chart to locate each color:
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/power/atxpower.html

Only when power supply numbers are posted here to reveal other
useful information, then move on to other suspects. This is what Paul
described as the power chain. For example, CPU cannot even operate if
numbers from gray wire are not valid.

List of other suspects is shor, but only after power supply
'system' (more than just a power supply) is confirmed by two minutes
with a meter.
 
Just a note - I got it to boot by putting my old PSU (same exact
model, which I feel I should note also cost $14 on Newegg) back in.
Maybe the new PSU was faulty; I'll have to return it. Thanks everyone
for your help and suggestions!

Of course now I have a new issue. I'm getting this note on boot:

Warning! CPU has been changed.
Please re-enter CPU settings in the CMOS setup and remember to save
before exit!

Reminder: The mobo is new, so obviously this is its first time booting
with this CPU - but it hadn't booted with a different CPU before
this. I've no idea what I'm supposed to adjust in the BIOS; in the
past, a brand new mobo has always worked fine for me without having to
adjust stuff in the BIOS.

See one of my above posts for the mobo and CPU specs.

Michael
 
Fixed - I just went into the BIOS and told it to load optimised
settings. I'm still having some issues, but they're driver issues and
I'm working on it.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice!

Michael
 
FTMichael said:
Fixed - I just went into the BIOS and told it to load optimised
settings. I'm still having some issues, but they're driver issues and
I'm working on it.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice!

Michael
Click to expand...

Glad you got it running.


There was a fellow, about 6 months ago, that made a point to me that it was
imperative to find out the PSU voltages with a multimeter instead of
'shotgunning' (simply interchanging parts). I argued the point through
several exchanges, saying that for novices it was a lot easier to just
substitute parts. After I took his advice and tried it myself with a couple
of PSU's I was won over to how easy it was and have chimed in to his
insistence.

Don't those cheap PSU's add so much excitement into a build?

Jan Alter
(e-mail address removed)
 
Fixed - I just went into the BIOS and told it to load optimised
settings. I'm still having some issues, but they're driver issues and
I'm working on it.
Click to expand...

These and other problems (ie drivers) can be traceable to a power
supply 'system' failure. Power supply is only one component of that
'system'. Even a defective supply can boot a computer. A problem not
understood when shotgunning is used. Shotgunners can declare a
defective supply as good only because computer boots.

Paul made an important statement about cheap supplies. To sell that
$14 supply at higher profits - yes cheaper supply may result in higher
profits - a manufacturer may 'forget' critical supply functions. For
example, one 'forgotten' function means the supply can now damage
other components. Supply manufacturer can do this because any and all
failures are the responsibility of a computer assembler. That supply
can even violate national safety standards - and the supply
manufacturer is not at fault. All responsibility falls on the prime
contractor - a computer assembler. Another fact often not grasped by
shotgunners. As long as that supply does not come with written
numeric specs that claim 'industry standard' functions, then the
supply need not provide such functions.

A computer power supply should cost $60 full retail. To sell for
less (and for higher profit), important functions must be forgotten.
Obviously that does not say a $60 supply contains required functions.
We all but know that $14 supply is missing essential functions.

What happens when a defective supply is installed in a computer?
The computer can still boot, the CPU power supply can 'fix' bad power
from the defective supply 'system', and other system component act
strange or defective. Without numbers for that power supply 'system',
then that 'system' remains in the third state - 'unknown'.

Simplest solution for the least technically knowledgeable is using a
meter. That means identify problems, or know what is actually good,
AND others who have knowledge can assist. Currently, nobody can
provide useful replies. Those few who actually have technical
knowledge post nothing useful due to shotgunning. How much time and
labor was expended? What specifically has Jan Alter provided having
recommended shotgunning? Tell us which parts are 'definitively
good'? None. After all that labor (shotgunning), nothing has
been accomplished. The least knowledgeable computer user gets useful
results immediately with only two minutes and the meter.

Finally, assume a new, sufficiently priced supply is purchased. Is
it OK? A supply can boot the computer and still be defective. A
supply can be good in one computer and be defective in another. A
defective supply that boots the computer today can eventually cause
strange failures months later. Better techs use that same meter (and
30 seconds) to confirm supply integrity. What did they mean by, "Work
smarter, not harder?" This poster has provided an example.
Shotgunning is how to work harder, spend more money, and learn nothing
useful. Shotgunning and those who advocate it are why dumping
inferior $14 power supplies into the market are so profitable.

What did Jan Alter suggest. Well, maybe it might possibly be the
cheap power supply causing some unknown problem. How useful was that
post? He can only speculate due to shotgunning. $14 power supply may
create those driver problems. Supply being marginal so that the CPU
power supply corrects it (CPU now works); but defective causing
drivers to fail. Nobody can say without two minutes and meter
numbers.
 
w_tom said:
These and other problems (ie drivers) can be traceable to a power
supply 'system' failure. Power supply is only one component of that
'system'. Even a defective supply can boot a computer. A problem not
understood when shotgunning is used. Shotgunners can declare a
defective supply as good only because computer boots.

Paul made an important statement about cheap supplies. To sell that
$14 supply at higher profits - yes cheaper supply may result in higher
profits - a manufacturer may 'forget' critical supply functions. For
example, one 'forgotten' function means the supply can now damage
other components. Supply manufacturer can do this because any and all
failures are the responsibility of a computer assembler. That supply
can even violate national safety standards - and the supply
manufacturer is not at fault. All responsibility falls on the prime
contractor - a computer assembler. Another fact often not grasped by
shotgunners. As long as that supply does not come with written
numeric specs that claim 'industry standard' functions, then the
supply need not provide such functions.

A computer power supply should cost $60 full retail. To sell for
less (and for higher profit), important functions must be forgotten.
Obviously that does not say a $60 supply contains required functions.
We all but know that $14 supply is missing essential functions.

What happens when a defective supply is installed in a computer?
The computer can still boot, the CPU power supply can 'fix' bad power
from the defective supply 'system', and other system component act
strange or defective. Without numbers for that power supply 'system',
then that 'system' remains in the third state - 'unknown'.

Simplest solution for the least technically knowledgeable is using a
meter. That means identify problems, or know what is actually good,
AND others who have knowledge can assist. Currently, nobody can
provide useful replies. Those few who actually have technical
knowledge post nothing useful due to shotgunning. How much time and
labor was expended? What specifically has Jan Alter provided having
recommended shotgunning? Tell us which parts are 'definitively
good'? None. After all that labor (shotgunning), nothing has
been accomplished. The least knowledgeable computer user gets useful
results immediately with only two minutes and the meter.

Finally, assume a new, sufficiently priced supply is purchased. Is
it OK? A supply can boot the computer and still be defective. A
supply can be good in one computer and be defective in another. A
defective supply that boots the computer today can eventually cause
strange failures months later. Better techs use that same meter (and
30 seconds) to confirm supply integrity. What did they mean by, "Work
smarter, not harder?" This poster has provided an example.
Shotgunning is how to work harder, spend more money, and learn nothing
useful. Shotgunning and those who advocate it are why dumping
inferior $14 power supplies into the market are so profitable.

What did Jan Alter suggest. Well, maybe it might possibly be the
cheap power supply causing some unknown problem. How useful was that
post? He can only speculate due to shotgunning. $14 power supply may
create those driver problems. Supply being marginal so that the CPU
power supply corrects it (CPU now works); but defective causing
drivers to fail. Nobody can say without two minutes and meter
numbers.
Click to expand...


Uh, are you angry about something? If you re-read my post about
'shotgunning' you may glean that I agree with you about using a meter rather
than a hit and miss approach for determining if a PSU is problematic. If
you want to continue to attribute that I recommend 'shotgunning' then I
would say you're misinterpreting what I wrote.
 
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