Sufficient PSU?

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Robert Bindler

A while back (in computer time), I built my current computer, making it
very simple (1 hd, 1 cdrom, etc). I have been upgrading it little by
little, and have turned it into a decent machine. However, I have still not
changed the PSU which is rated at 250W. I have not had any problems
(reboots, etc) with it. I don't want to replace the PSU if it's adequate.
Is the PSU adequate enough if I'm not getting any problems? Or is there a
possibility that the parts are being damaged or are running slowly?

Here are my specs:
MSI K7t Turbo2 mobo (KT133A) (onboard sound)
Athlon XP +2100 w/fan
768 MB of PC 133 SDRAM
GeForceFX 5200 w/tv-out) w/fan
Case fan (smart fan)
40GB 7200RPM hd
10GB 5400RPM hd
32x/10x/40x CD-RW
16x DVD-ROM
56k modem

Keep in mind that I use tv-out only a couple of times a week (combined with
my crt). I rarely use more than two drives. I use two drives only when I'm
installing software (dvd->hd), burning cd's (hd->cdr), or ripping dvd's
(dvd->hd) which is very rare. I max out my vid card with games frequently.
I max out my cpu with video processing and development (compilation)
frequently.

Should I upgrade my PSU anyways? If so, what would you recommend (400w?)

Thank you.
 
Quite likely that your 250 watt supply is really a true 250
watt supply - which is why it is more than sufficient. Many
will recommend power supplies missing essential functions and
sold without specifications. Then they must advocate "more
power" solutions - 400+ watts - because every supply they had
bought really did not output watts as claimed.

How to increase profits. Forget to include many essential
functions in a power supply. Then dump this supply in North
America where too many computer experts don't even have basic
electrical knowledge. It is why so many supplies are sold at
higher profits - at well below the $80 price.

Is that power supply too small? Test is so simple. First
the essential, ubiquitous 3.5 digit multimeter is required.
Power up system running many tasks that access maximum number
of hardware. Should this use of multiple peripherals draw too
much power, then important DC voltages (3.3, 5, or 12) will
drop to or below lowest quarter of specification. Power
supply is starting to see its limits per chart in:
http://www.hardwaresite.net/faqpowersupply.html

If voltages remain stable, then supply is sufficient.

Embarrassing is that recommendation for a $19 supply from
CompUSA. Anyone with fundamental computer knowledge would
recognize critical functions are missing. For example, where
is the long list of specifications required by that supply?
If not meeting essential specs, then why bother providing
them? However the technically naive would recommend such a
power supply using only one specification - price. Then when
a power supply problem occurs, the missing protection circuit
causes motherboard, memory, and disk destruction. Those with
sufficient technical knowledge know that no power supply,
properly constructed even 30 years ago, will damage a computer
if power supply fails. But to sell a power supply at $19,
forget to include those essential functions. In North America
where so many computer experts cannot even read basic power
supply specs, the continent is ripe for dumping inferior
products. But then these computer experts don't even know how
to use a 3.5 digit multimeter.

Check the DC voltages per the table in the above URL. If
voltages remain stable, then power supply wattage is
sufficient.
 
Robert Bindler said:
A while back (in computer time), I built my current computer, making it
very simple (1 hd, 1 cdrom, etc). I have been upgrading it little by
little, and have turned it into a decent machine. However, I have still not
changed the PSU which is rated at 250W. I have not had any problems
(reboots, etc) with it. I don't want to replace the PSU if it's adequate.
Is the PSU adequate enough if I'm not getting any problems? Or is there a
possibility that the parts are being damaged or are running slowly?

Here are my specs:
MSI K7t Turbo2 mobo (KT133A) (onboard sound)
Athlon XP +2100 w/fan
768 MB of PC 133 SDRAM
GeForceFX 5200 w/tv-out) w/fan
Case fan (smart fan)
40GB 7200RPM hd
10GB 5400RPM hd
32x/10x/40x CD-RW
16x DVD-ROM
56k modem

The laser in your cd burner can be a burden on your PS. Also any plans on
buying a DVD burner? That can be too. Apparently if it's working for you,
it's working for you. I think you would more than likely notice the
problems if there were any.

If you decide to purchase a new PS, be sure not to buy a cheapie! (I think
others have already mentioned this). I don't know how those companies get
away with labelling some piece of crap PS as 400w and selling it for $20.
Stay away from those. If you are going to buy a 400w PS, expect to pay for
a 400wPS. Although that may be overkill. You would probably be fine with a
300 / 350. http://www.ourstrangeworld.com
 
Robert Bindler said:
I have still not changed the PSU which is rated at 250W. I
have not had any problems (reboots, etc) with it. I don't want
to replace the PSU if it's adequate.
MSI K7t Turbo2 mobo (KT133A) (onboard sound)
Athlon XP +2100 w/fan
GeForceFX 5200 w/tv-out) w/fan
40GB 7200RPM hd
10GB 5400RPM hd
32x/10x/40x CD-RW
16x DVD-ROM
Should I upgrade my PSU anyways? If so, what would you recommend (400w?)

If your voltages aren't drooping too much (some droop is perfectly
normal) and the supply isn't getting much hotter than before, then
it's probably holding up fine, although many "250W" supplies will have
problems running an XP +2100, a fast video card, and 4 drives.
However, if your power supply doesn't have a square 4-pin connector,
the sole yellow +12V wire on the 20-pin connector may be overheating
or dropping too much voltage since the CPU core regulator probably
draws 6-8 amps from the +12V. The square 4-pin connector provides
extra +12V lines to overcome any potential problem with this. Still,
a first-rate 300-350W power supply should work fine with your system,
even if its +12V rating is just 15A.

I put 250W in quotes above because the best supplies can put out as
much as 70% more power than the worst of the same advertised ratings.
Some good brands are Fortron/Sparkle (often sold as Aopen, Trend,
Powrman, and even Hi-Q), which are good as the Antec Truepowers but
usually cost less, especially when bought from Directron.com or
Newegg.com.
 
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