Self Built Desktop PC

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matt Gibson
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Matt Gibson

Couple of things...

1) Most cases come with power supplies.

2) Most motherboards come with onboard sound & USB.

3) All retail CPUs come with heatsink and fan.

All you really need is a Case, CPU, Memory, Hard Drive, CD-ROM, and Floppy.

Matt Gibson - GSEC
 
John said:
Just about to emabark on a new project to build my own PC. I have identified the following items that I migh need to have a first working model:

1) CASE
2) Processor
3) Heatsink & Fan
4) Momory module
5) Motherboard
6) Hard disk
7) CD/DVD
8) Floppy drive
9) USB card
10) Sound card


Is there anything else I need to put on this list? The idea is to build and upgrade it as and when new brain waves reaches me. Alternatively, are there any sites where there is a checklist for a modest PC?

Regards,
Unless your case comes with a good power supply you will need one.
Also, unless the motherboard you choose has built-in video you will also
need a video card. Most new motherboards include USB ports, sound, and
LAN connections so you will not need the USB or sound card.
You might also want to look into additional fans for the case unless it
already has them. A lot of cases have spots for attaching the fans but
do not include them.
The best bet is to decide on the processor you want to use, then find a
motherboard that will work with that processor. From there you will
know what kind of memory to get and any additional cards you will need.
 
....
6) Hard disks
- main disk
- backup disk
....
9) USB card
[probably integrated in motherboard]
10) Sound card
[probably integrated in motherboard, unless you want home
cinema/hifi capabilities]

11) LAN Networking
[probably integrated in motherboard]

12) Firewire interface
[probably integrated in motherboard]

13) Software
Windows XP ?
Office ?
etc ?
 
Just about to emabark on a new project to build my own PC. I have identified the following items that I migh need to have a first working model:

1) CASE
2) Processor
3) Heatsink & Fan
4) Momory module
5) Motherboard
6) Hard disk
7) CD/DVD
8) Floppy drive
9) USB card
10) Sound card


Is there anything else I need to put on this list? The idea is to build and upgrade it as and when new brain waves reaches me. Alternatively, are there any sites where there is a checklist for a modest PC?

Regards,
 
Couple of things...

1) Most cases come with power supplies.

2) Most motherboards come with onboard sound & USB.

3) All retail CPUs come with heatsink and fan.

All you really need is a Case, CPU, Memory, Hard Drive, CD-ROM, and Floppy.

Where are you going to put the CPU if you don't have a motherboard?
 
You will need to add:

1) A video card -- Integrated video cards (on the motherboard) do not
provide a "good" 3D version. They also share memory (RAM)
2) Use 512 -- 2GB of RAM -- Two modules give you some room, in case one
fails.
3) Power Supply -- any power supplies below 400 watts are to be avoided.
400 watt PS will give you room to expand.
4) A Network adapter -- will allo to to set up a home network (later) and
connect to broadband (DSL, cable) internet
--- If you do get this -- look at getting a broadband router
5) Regular 56K modem -- you may want to fax out -- broadband modem units do
not have fax capabilities.
5) Surge protector or UPS -- 95% of most PC problem occur on bad power
circuits.
 
"95% of most PC problem occur on bad power circuits" when the
human does not first learn why failure occurs. For example, a
computer grade UPS in battery backup mode outputs a modified
120 volt sine wave. Now we review the numbers. That 'sine
wave' could be two 200 volt square waves with up to a 270 volt
spike between those square waves. IOW the 'dirtiest power' is
delivered by the UPS. Is that UPS destructive to computers?
Of course not.

Computer must have a power supply that provides protection
from 'dirty power'. But when selling a power supply at
significantly less than $65, essential functions are
forgotten. Functions that make dirty power irrelevant.
Functions that are essential to a reliable computer.
Functions as even required in Intel specs.

How to identify inferior power supplies. One - they sell at
lower prices. This (obviously) does not say all $70 supplies
include essential functions. But a $40 power supply would be
missing these essential functions.

Two- supply manufacturer forgets to provides a long list of
numerical specs. Essential to forgetting to include those
essential functions: don't provide those specs. Then those
with real technical knowledge cannot 'blow the whistle'. A
long list of numerical specs means the manufacturer has stated
those essential functions are included. Ten lines of
specifications only means the manufacturer is insulting your
intelligence. No numbers means he never really intended to
provide a minimally acceptable supply.

Forget the UPS or plug-in surge protector that doesn't even
claim to provide protection from typically destructive
transients. Any protection that works at the computer would
already be inside the power supply. Protection that can be
overwhelmed if the building does not have a 'whole house
protector on AC mains and other service entrance protection.
Essential is the building's earthing that meets or exceeds
post 1990 NEC requirements. Just more facts that useless,
undersized, and grossly overpriced plug-in protector
manufacturers hope you never learn.

Instead get a minimally acceptable power supply. Consider
effect transient protection at the utility service entrances.
Don't fall for the myths promoted by the electrically naive
who assume "surge protector = surge protection". Protector
and protection are not even the same items. But a good power
supply contains essential functions even demanded by Intel.
 
*grin*

Uh...I was going to suggest he build his own ;-)

Thanks for the catch!

Matt Gibson - GSEC
 
Head over to American Power Conversion or Powerware. These are two large
UPS makers and will give getter 'facts' on why to use UPS or surge
protectors.
 
Yves said:
Head over to American Power Conversion or Powerware. These are two large
UPS makers and will give getter 'facts' on why to use UPS or surge
protectors.

Been there. Where do they define how the protector works for each
type of surge? They don't. Why? They only claim protection from a
type of surge - the one that typically does not exist. There is one
well proven fact even in 1930s GE and Westinghouse science papers: the
protector is only as effective as its earth ground. What does APC, et
al forget to mention? Earthing.

Effective protector are manufactured by companies with responsible
reputations such as Square D, Leviton, Intermatic, GE, Siemens,
Polyphaser, and Cutler Hammer. Ineffective protectors are hyped by
'lying by telling half truths'.

For example, how to identify ineffective protectors - plug-in or UPS.
1) Protector has no dedicated connection to the most critical
component in any protector 'system': earth ground. 2) Manufacturer
avoids all mention of earthing. No earth ground means no effective
protection. So APC, et al forget to mention they don't even claim to
protect from the type of surge that typically damages electronics.

Again, any protection that works at the electronics is already inside
those electronics. Protection that must not be overwhelmed. IOW we
install a single effective 'whole house' protector on each incoming
utility so that protection inside ALL electronics is not overwhelmed.
That includes GFCI in bathroom and kitchen, smoke detectors,
dishwasher, clock radio, and the furnace controls. These are
electronics that also contain internal protection. Internal protection
that must not be overwhelmed. Electronics that also cannot be
protected by ineffective plug-in protectors.

What does APC, et al avoid discussing? Earth ground. No earth
ground means no effective protection. A surge protector is only as
effective as its earth ground - as Ben Franklin even demonstrated in
1752.
 
w_tom,

Why go into all that detail for an obvious novice computer user?

John: Just remember to get at least 450W Antec power supply.
 
He is building a home computer. I don't think he is going to be using it to
control a dialysis machine to keep his spouse alive.

Tom, you go way too far overboard for Mr. Average user! He just wants to
build a decent computer for gods sake. Any decent name brand power supply in
the mid to upper price range will likely do him just fine. There are
hundreds of millions of such power supplies in use this very minute.

--
Regards,

Richard Urban
Microsoft MVP Windows Shell/User

Quote from: George Ankner
"If you knew as much as you thought you know,
You would realize that you don't know what you thought you knew!"
 
I completely agree with Richard.

Richard Urban said:
He is building a home computer. I don't think he is going to be using it
to control a dialysis machine to keep his spouse alive.

Tom, you go way too far overboard for Mr. Average user! He just wants to
build a decent computer for gods sake. Any decent name brand power supply
in the mid to upper price range will likely do him just fine. There are
hundreds of millions of such power supplies in use this very minute.

--
Regards,

Richard Urban
Microsoft MVP Windows Shell/User

Quote from: George Ankner
"If you knew as much as you thought you know,
You would realize that you don't know what you thought you knew!"
 
I completely disagree with both Richard and Ryan - and for multiple
reasons. First, the answer to a newsgroup question is not just for the
OP. Provided is an answer for everyone curious enough to read this
thread. Provided was a simpler and well proven method of fixing PCs.
Notice no 'try this and try that' nonsense. Notice no "it must be the
power supply" nonsense that only the ill informed would have
recommended. And yet many will still recommend shotgunning.

The ill informed asked the OP to replace what may or may not be a
perfectly good power supply with another supply that also may also be
good or bad. Do we know? Of course not. Due to what the OP was told,
insufficient information was provided to even answer a simple question,
"Was the power supply defective?" Insufficient knowledge is why 'wild
speculation' became computer advise.

Second, if what I posted was too complex for anyone here, then that
person should not even be trying to fix a machine. Posted was a
simplest procedure for those who fix simple problems right the first
time. The complicated stuff was not even discussed. But then some
will foolishly claim that executing diagnostics or heating computer
parts with a hairdryer requires certification?

Provide was how a first time computer repairman either 1) fixes the
problem or 2) provides the newsgroup with relevant facts to obtain in a
useful reply.

Again, if you agree with Richard, then you also should be telling the
OP to not even attempt to fix his machine. Provided is how those with
minimal knowledge can fix computers and will not waste money replacing
parts that are not even defective.

Third, I disagree with both Richard and Ryan because neither has even
posted reasons for their declarations. Lurkers are warned about those
who just know and cannot be bothered to explain why.
 
The OP is not trying to FIX anything. If you would read correctly, he is
attempting to build his "first" computer - and he is NOT an electrical
engineer, which you profess to be. He is an average Joe who needs simple
instructions and opinions.

You are just trying to show off again, as you do about once a month here.

--
Regards,

Richard Urban
Microsoft MVP Windows Shell/User

Quote from: George Ankner
"If you knew as much as you thought you know,
You would realize that you don't know what you thought you knew!"
 
w_tom,

You make your answers too much than they need to be. You make your elaborate
and well thought our answers seem like you need to be a rocket scientist to
work on computers, when anyone has built their own knows that is not the
case.

Readers of w_tom's post should be warned. With a little common sense and
researching on their own, anyone will find out it's not that hard and it
does not require an elaborate response from w_tom.
 
My problem is similar to John's in that I have built a new dual core PC with 500 GB HD (2 X 250) and 1024 MB RAM (2 X 512) and now I need to install all the drivers etc. Is there any particular order of installing drivers to avoid any problems?

The order I am thinking of is:

!) Operating system and all updates
2) Motherboard drivers
3) Graphics/display card drivers,
4) Modem drivers
5) USB etc drivers
6) Antivirus software - Free Grisoft and updates
7) AntiSpyware software - Free Webroot and updates
8) Office Professional and all updates
9) updates for drivers etc

Any constructive comments would be very much appreciated.

Yes, get a NAT router between your computer and the internet before you
start loading drivers/updates or you risk being compromised while
building the system.

I usually install the OS and specific IDE/SATA drivers if needed, then
the drivers that came with the motherboard (INTEL and such)....

I would do #9 between #5 & #6
10) Run windows update one more time.
 
My problem is similar to John's in that I have built a new dual core PC with 500 GB HD (2 X 250) and 1024 MB RAM (2 X 512) and now I need to install all the drivers etc. Is there any particular order of installing drivers to avoid any problems?

The order I am thinking of is:

!) Operating system and all updates
2) Motherboard drivers
3) Graphics/display card drivers,
4) Modem drivers
5) USB etc drivers
6) Antivirus software - Free Grisoft and updates
7) AntiSpyware software - Free Webroot and updates
8) Office Professional and all updates
9) updates for drivers etc

Any constructive comments would be very much appreciated.

Regards,

Mahesh
 
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