Reset switch on PC Case Does not work

  • Thread starter Thread starter SighFi
  • Start date Start date
S

SighFi

I'm wondering if its motherboard or switch...

what type of switch is it?

I just stuck a meter in the case switch on continuity and got no buzzer
when switch pressed, should I get a closed circuit through a meter when
the reset switch is pressed in?

how does motherboard reset work, is it just closing circuit on the two
reset pins?

I wish cases would label their connecters + and - or use standard colours
and provide a chart or something... ?

anyone know how to test?
 
SighFi said:
I'm wondering if its motherboard or switch...

what type of switch is it?

I just stuck a meter in the case switch on continuity and got no buzzer
when switch pressed, should I get a closed circuit through a meter when
the reset switch is pressed in?

how does motherboard reset work, is it just closing circuit on the two
reset pins?

I wish cases would label their connecters + and - or use standard colours
and provide a chart or something... ?

anyone know how to test?
Click to expand...


Yes...you should get continutiy when the switchis pressed...

it's just a simple, momemtary contact , normally open switch
 
Yes...you should get continutiy when the switchis pressed...

it's just a simple, momemtary contact , normally open switch
Click to expand...

thanks,

so, the power and reset switches are not polarity dependant, just the
led's is that right? (and even then they just wont work, you are not
likely to blow the led's by connecting wrong polarity are you?)

and you should get a continuity buzz as long a you hold the switch in? is
that right?

so if you held reset or power switches in for 5 seconds you should get a
5 second buzz on the meter set to continuity test? is that right?

if so, its the flipping case with a dud reset switch, bought it a year
ago, just got it out the box to build a pc a couple of days ago... bah...

oh well, the power button works as an override off, so that will have to
do for now....
 
thanks,

so, the power and reset switches are not polarity dependant, just the
led's is that right? (and even then they just wont work, you are not
likely to blow the led's by connecting wrong polarity are you?)
Click to expand...

Yes...just the led's are polarized
(and if hooked up backwards will not light...but will do no damage either)
and you should get a continuity buzz as long a you hold the switch in? is
that right?

Yes

so if you held reset or power switches in for 5 seconds you should get a
5 second buzz on the meter set to continuity test? is that right?
Yes

if so, its the flipping case with a dud reset switch, bought it a year
ago, just got it out the box to build a pc a couple of days ago... bah...

oh well, the power button works as an override off, so that will have to
do for now....
Click to expand...

The reset button is easy enough to replace...but it's really not necessary
 
Yes...just the led's are polarized
(and if hooked up backwards will not light...but will do no damage
either)

The reset button is easy enough to replace...but it's really not
necessary
Click to expand...

Yeah, Ta! I probably wont get round to it... :)
 
Yeah, Ta! I probably wont get round to it... :)
Click to expand...


On most of the machines that I build for my own use...
i'm so lazy I usually just hook up the "start" button and nothing else!
 
Paul said:
(Original thread is from 2007 !)
Click to expand...

That is FYI, right?

The only differences it makes is the fact that "Re" is in the
subject line. Conceivably, it might appear disjoined in the
public UseNet archive, assuming there is one.

Any other technical problem with it?
--
 
Flasherly said:
I'm-so lazy-thread (they didn't have these then). . .

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-ir-remote-controlled-ac-outlet-for-appliances-110v-13147

I set the BIOS to "wake on PWR restoration," plug a computer into it,
and program the IR on/off to an unused TV remote button. (Actually
have three - great for older AV gear with remote functions.)
Click to expand...

About as lazy as my setup. I have my PC, LCD monitor, router, and cable modem all plugged into my UPS. I've had my BIOS
set that way for years, so all I do is press the on/off button on the UPS (which is on my desk), and by the time my cup
of coffee is ready, my PC is too. Doesn't get much easier than that. I guess I could put my coffee maker on a timer and
cut my wait time, but hey, I need that extra minute or two to feed the cat. Of course, I could get one of those
timed-release feeders for her and an automatic litterbox sifter, but I have to have some reason to get out of bed or
I'll be 6'2" in all directions :-)
 
John said:
That is FYI, right?

The only differences it makes is the fact that "Re" is in the
subject line. Conceivably, it might appear disjoined in the
public UseNet archive, assuming there is one.

Any other technical problem with it?
Click to expand...

As far as I can determine, the posting is coming from
howtofixcomputers web to news site. And responding to a
thread from 2007. It's not a posting to a regular news server.

For regular USENET users, the thread will have long since disappeared
from the server. Kinda hard to see the context, without Google Groups/Dejanews.

In any case, the original poster ("OP") is likely no longer
waiting for an answer :-)

Paul
 
About as lazy as my setup. I have my PC, LCD monitor, router, and cable modem all plugged into my UPS. I've had my BIOS
set that way for years, so all I do is press the on/off button on the UPS (which is on my desk), and by the time my cup
of coffee is ready, my PC is too. Doesn't get much easier than that. I guess I could put my coffee maker on a timer and
cut my wait time, but hey, I need that extra minute or two to feed the cat. Of course, I could get one of those
timed-release feeders for her and an automatic litterbox sifter, but I have to have some reason to get out of bed or
I'll be 6'2" in all directions :-)
Click to expand...

Ah - my 4- or 5-yr-old NEC LCD/37" is starting to act up and won't
come back out of its self-imposed 2watt standby right every (now, more
like most of the) time after I've used the coffee-table IR keyboard to
shut down Windows. Same concept, you've got still to turn on your
monitor (once the UPS power is removed). NEC has HDMI ports and can
get converters for a 15-pin VGA cable, at least for a try, but I sort
of doubt that'll help. That's one hell of a sad note if it gets worse
(past couple weeks it was *a few times* coming out of STBY, but
alas. . .) perfectly good cathode tube with every pixel working, with
some utterly numbnut NEC problem about picking up a source signal to
PWR up. (No-name sale $250 to $325-400 for a Toshiba/Panasonic/LG
$400 replacement 32". Half what they did cost but still not cheap).

For now I dedicated one of those Hong Kong IR devices, linked above,
to its power source. The NEC is working once the power is totally
removed (sometimes a few minutes) when the NEC remote is then used to
the panel back on. From STBY (w/out removing PWR) the display just
keeps abruptly switching itself back into STBY. That's the way of
death for convoluted electronics, though, when systems first begin
limping along a can or two short of a sixpack of original features.
 
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