RAM settings on a P5SD2-X Motherboard

[Daniel]

Hi

I have a PC running Vista Ultimate, I have 2560M RAM,
on a ASUS P5SD2-X Motherboard with BIOS by American Megatrends 0301
09/29/2005
I have a problem where I get LRAND RAM errors when I test my PC with Windows
Memory
Test or Memtest, but when I take the cover off I do not get the errors, I
guess this is a cooling problem
and maybe if I turned down the RAM in the BIOS, it would help.

Can someone please help me with how I do this, I have been through the BIOS
settings but cannot find where or what to do.

thanks

Daniel

 

[Paul]

Hi

I have a PC running Vista Ultimate, I have 2560M RAM,
on a ASUS P5SD2-X Motherboard with BIOS by American Megatrends 0301
09/29/2005
I have a problem where I get LRAND RAM errors when I test my PC with Windows
Memory
Test or Memtest, but when I take the cover off I do not get the errors, I
guess this is a cooling problem
and maybe if I turned down the RAM in the BIOS, it would help.

Can someone please help me with how I do this, I have been through the BIOS
settings but cannot find where or what to do.

thanks

Daniel

Does the Northbridge cooler appear to be making good contact with the
chip underneath ? It could even be something, like they forgot to put
TIM (thermal interface material or paste) between the heatsink and
Northbridge. Your Northbridge cooler is fastened with two pushpins.

For best performance, I would use 2x1GB sticks, put them in like colored
slots. With just two sticks present, that may allow the RAM itself to
get more air circulation.

Check the Northbridge heatsink temperature with a finger (the aluminum heatsink
in the picture) and see if it seems to be running hot. The CPU cooler, depending
on type, may blow a bit of air over the fins of the Northbridge cooler, and that
helps.

http://geizhals.at/img/pix/169966.jpg (motherboard picture)

Your board has a Vdimm setting "DDR Reference Voltage", and 2.0V should be
safe with most RAM, if you ever need to bump the voltage to get stability.

Running a copy of Prime95 (mersenne.org) and its Torture Test menu item,
can help determine whether the RAM is good. That test runs within Windows.
Finish your memtest86+ or Microsoft testing first, before booting into
Windows. If the RAM is in bad shape, you can corrupt your Windows install.
So the memory tester should be clean, before booting into Windows.

Paul

 

[Daniel]

Does the Northbridge cooler appear to be making good contact with the
chip underneath ? It could even be something, like they forgot to put
TIM (thermal interface material or paste) between the heatsink and
Northbridge. Your Northbridge cooler is fastened with two pushpins.

For best performance, I would use 2x1GB sticks, put them in like colored
slots. With just two sticks present, that may allow the RAM itself to
get more air circulation.

Check the Northbridge heatsink temperature with a finger (the aluminum
heatsink
in the picture) and see if it seems to be running hot. The CPU cooler,
depending
on type, may blow a bit of air over the fins of the Northbridge cooler,
and that
helps.

http://geizhals.at/img/pix/169966.jpg (motherboard picture)

Your board has a Vdimm setting "DDR Reference Voltage", and 2.0V should be
safe with most RAM, if you ever need to bump the voltage to get stability.

Running a copy of Prime95 (mersenne.org) and its Torture Test menu item,
can help determine whether the RAM is good. That test runs within Windows.
Finish your memtest86+ or Microsoft testing first, before booting into
Windows. If the RAM is in bad shape, you can corrupt your Windows install.
So the memory tester should be clean, before booting into Windows.

Paul

Paul,
good stuff, thanks for the reply and excellent advice,
I will start with moving the second stick, I have it in a different colour,
the Northbridge heatsink cooler (now that I know what that is) seems to be
cool but the tower is open and I am not getting errors, I will run a closed
test when I have moved the stick of RAM..
I will check out the Prime 95.

thanks again

regards

Daniel

 

[Daniel]

Does the Northbridge cooler appear to be making good contact with the
chip underneath ? It could even be something, like they forgot to put
TIM (thermal interface material or paste) between the heatsink and
Northbridge. Your Northbridge cooler is fastened with two pushpins.

For best performance, I would use 2x1GB sticks, put them in like colored
slots. With just two sticks present, that may allow the RAM itself to
get more air circulation.

Check the Northbridge heatsink temperature with a finger (the aluminum
heatsink
in the picture) and see if it seems to be running hot. The CPU cooler,
depending
on type, may blow a bit of air over the fins of the Northbridge cooler,
and that
helps.

http://geizhals.at/img/pix/169966.jpg (motherboard picture)

Your board has a Vdimm setting "DDR Reference Voltage", and 2.0V should be
safe with most RAM, if you ever need to bump the voltage to get stability.

Running a copy of Prime95 (mersenne.org) and its Torture Test menu item,
can help determine whether the RAM is good. That test runs within Windows.
Finish your memtest86+ or Microsoft testing first, before booting into
Windows. If the RAM is in bad shape, you can corrupt your Windows install.
So the memory tester should be clean, before booting into Windows.

Paul

Paul
I have another question if you are still online, I have one 512 Meg stick
left
from the original supply, can I add this to the two 1Gig on it's own or do I
need another?

thanks

Daniel

 

[Paul]

Paul
I have another question if you are still online, I have one 512 Meg stick
left
from the original supply, can I add this to the two 1Gig on it's own or do I
need another?

thanks

Daniel

If you are having trouble with a DDR2 motherboard that has four slots,
start by proving you can successfully run two sticks in dual channel first.

If the chipset is a good one, then in principle, there should be no stability
difference between two sticks and four sticks. Some of the older Anandtech
motherboard reviews, hardly needed any timing changes at all, going from
two sticks to four sticks.

So sure, if you want, try 2x1GB + 2x512MB. That would still be a good combo.
But running 2x1GB + 1x512MB is no longer dual channel, and I would not run a
system that way. I would go back to 2x1GB by themselves, rather than do
that.

Paul

 

[Daniel]

If you are having trouble with a DDR2 motherboard that has four slots,
start by proving you can successfully run two sticks in dual channel
first.

If the chipset is a good one, then in principle, there should be no
stability
difference between two sticks and four sticks. Some of the older Anandtech
motherboard reviews, hardly needed any timing changes at all, going from
two sticks to four sticks.

So sure, if you want, try 2x1GB + 2x512MB. That would still be a good
combo.
But running 2x1GB + 1x512MB is no longer dual channel, and I would not run
a
system that way. I would go back to 2x1GB by themselves, rather than do
that.

Paul

Great Paul

thanks for your advice, I will put the 512 away until I can buy another. (it
runs well on it's own)

regards

Daniel

 

[Daniel]

If you are having trouble with a DDR2 motherboard that has four slots,
start by proving you can successfully run two sticks in dual channel
first.

If the chipset is a good one, then in principle, there should be no
stability
difference between two sticks and four sticks. Some of the older Anandtech
motherboard reviews, hardly needed any timing changes at all, going from
two sticks to four sticks.

So sure, if you want, try 2x1GB + 2x512MB. That would still be a good
combo.
But running 2x1GB + 1x512MB is no longer dual channel, and I would not run
a
system that way. I would go back to 2x1GB by themselves, rather than do
that.

Paul

Hi

I tested the 1Gig sticks individually for several passes in Windows Memory
Diagnostics (dos) wirthout error.
I then tested my 2 x 1Gig sticks for several hours in Windows Memory
Diagnostics (dos) without any errors, then I got one LRAND error.

Does this mean one of the sticks is bad or can this happen anyway?

thanks

Daniel

 

[Paul]

Hi

I tested the 1Gig sticks individually for several passes in Windows Memory
Diagnostics (dos) wirthout error.
I then tested my 2 x 1Gig sticks for several hours in Windows Memory
Diagnostics (dos) without any errors, then I got one LRAND error.

Does this mean one of the sticks is bad or can this happen anyway?

thanks

Daniel

Did you bump up the RAM voltage to 2.0V ? If the problem is actually
heat, then changing the voltage probably won't help.

One poster here, noticed that the Northbridge heatsink, uses a "gasket" around
the outside. The purpose of a gasket, is to protect a bare silicon die, when
a chip doesn't have an integral heatspreader on top. The problem with the use
of a gasket, is using the exact right thickness of gasket. When using a gasket,
typically additional compressive force is needed when the heatsink is installed.
This guy removed the gasket and reinstalled the heatsink with some fresh thermal
paste, and got stability.

Note that removing the gasket, increases the danger of damage when reinstalling
the heatsink. You have to be careful not to tilt the heatsink while fastening
it back in place. People used to chip the edges and corners of the Athlon processor,
for this reason (tilted heatsink leans on the brittle silicon, and cracks it).
So be careful.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...ard_id=1&model=P5SD2-X&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

Now, when I look at the picture here, it looks like there is something on top
of the die, almost like a miniature heat spreader. That doesn't look like a
bare die.

http://www.sis.com.tw/UD_Data/products/desktop_pc/intel/656/sis656_topview.jpg

If using thermal paste, it only goes on the shiny bit in the center of the chip.
You don't want to use too much - half a grain-of-rice sized bit is plenty.

*******
You can get aftermarket chipset coolers. This one is the cadillac of coolers.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108072 (MCX159-CU)

Other postings about your board are here.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/topic.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&board_id=1&model=P5SD2-X&page_size=100
*******

Paul

 

[Daniel]

Did you bump up the RAM voltage to 2.0V ? If the problem is actually
heat, then changing the voltage probably won't help.

One poster here, noticed that the Northbridge heatsink, uses a "gasket"
around
the outside. The purpose of a gasket, is to protect a bare silicon die,
when
a chip doesn't have an integral heatspreader on top. The problem with the
use
of a gasket, is using the exact right thickness of gasket. When using a
gasket,
typically additional compressive force is needed when the heatsink is
installed.
This guy removed the gasket and reinstalled the heatsink with some fresh
thermal
paste, and got stability.

Note that removing the gasket, increases the danger of damage when
reinstalling
the heatsink. You have to be careful not to tilt the heatsink while
fastening
it back in place. People used to chip the edges and corners of the Athlon
processor,
for this reason (tilted heatsink leans on the brittle silicon, and cracks
it).
So be careful.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...ard_id=1&model=P5SD2-X&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

Now, when I look at the picture here, it looks like there is something on
top
of the die, almost like a miniature heat spreader. That doesn't look like
a
bare die.

http://www.sis.com.tw/UD_Data/products/desktop_pc/intel/656/sis656_topview.jpg

If using thermal paste, it only goes on the shiny bit in the center of the
chip.
You don't want to use too much - half a grain-of-rice sized bit is plenty.

*******
You can get aftermarket chipset coolers. This one is the cadillac of
coolers.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108072
(MCX159-CU)

Other postings about your board are here.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/topic.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&board_id=1&model=P5SD2-X&page_size=100
*******

Paul

Paul

I have not touched the settings yet, I keep getting very good results then
bad results, so I'm not sure what to do, I was not going to increase the
voltage, I was going to decrease it.

Thanks for the links you sent but I am not good enough to even contemplate
removing or replacing the heatsink, but I will get the cooler.
Then if it doesn't fix the issue I will return the RAM.

cheers

Daniel

 

[Paul]

Paul

I have not touched the settings yet, I keep getting very good results then
bad results, so I'm not sure what to do, I was not going to increase the
voltage, I was going to decrease it.

Thanks for the links you sent but I am not good enough to even contemplate
removing or replacing the heatsink, but I will get the cooler.
Then if it doesn't fix the issue I will return the RAM.

cheers

Daniel

No, the MCX159-CU would _take the place_ of the Northbridge cooler. It
is an example of what an enthusiast would use, if they suspected a
cooling problem. You would have to remove the aluminum heatsink first,
and attach the new copper unit plus fan.

Another possible solution, is to mount a fan next to the current
Northbridge heatsink and blow cool air on it. But that only helps,
if the Northbridge is making good physical contact. I suspect in your
case, it is not making good contact.

Since push pins hold the P5SD2-X heatsink in place, there is no way to
tighten up the heatsink. The MCX159-CU, when put in place of the
Northbridge heatsink, uses screws.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp

So my showing you the MCX159-CU, is to show what can be purchased, if
you want to fix a cooling problem. Not everybody wants to take their
motherboard apart. But some people love stuff like that.

Push pins can be recycled. You don't have to cut them to remove them.
You pinch the tip together, on the solder side of the motherboard,
and then ease the pin upwards. The pin can be reused, at least for
a cycle or two.

You could also return the motherboard to your retailer, and try to
get a replacement unit. What I cannot tell you, is if you will eventually
get a motherboard, where the heatsink fits well.

To give an example of using a fan, I hold an 80mm fan next to my video
card, to increase the cooling. I use a piece of aluminum stock with an
"L" shaped cross-section. I bolt the aluminum bar to a PCI slot screw
hole. The fan is held to the bar, with nylon ties.

This is a commercial equivalent of my home brew solution. The FB-123 for $9.
In your case, you would adjust the position of the fan, so it is over
top of the Northbridge heatsink.

http://www.bitbenderforums.com/imaginasian/Zalman_Mod/zalman.htm

Good luck,
Paul

 

[Daniel]

No, the MCX159-CU would _take the place_ of the Northbridge cooler. It
is an example of what an enthusiast would use, if they suspected a
cooling problem. You would have to remove the aluminum heatsink first,
and attach the new copper unit plus fan.

Another possible solution, is to mount a fan next to the current
Northbridge heatsink and blow cool air on it. But that only helps,
if the Northbridge is making good physical contact. I suspect in your
case, it is not making good contact.

Since push pins hold the P5SD2-X heatsink in place, there is no way to
tighten up the heatsink. The MCX159-CU, when put in place of the
Northbridge heatsink, uses screws.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp

So my showing you the MCX159-CU, is to show what can be purchased, if
you want to fix a cooling problem. Not everybody wants to take their
motherboard apart. But some people love stuff like that.

Push pins can be recycled. You don't have to cut them to remove them.
You pinch the tip together, on the solder side of the motherboard,
and then ease the pin upwards. The pin can be reused, at least for
a cycle or two.

You could also return the motherboard to your retailer, and try to
get a replacement unit. What I cannot tell you, is if you will eventually
get a motherboard, where the heatsink fits well.

To give an example of using a fan, I hold an 80mm fan next to my video
card, to increase the cooling. I use a piece of aluminum stock with an
"L" shaped cross-section. I bolt the aluminum bar to a PCI slot screw
hole. The fan is held to the bar, with nylon ties.

This is a commercial equivalent of my home brew solution. The FB-123 for
$9.
In your case, you would adjust the position of the fan, so it is over
top of the Northbridge heatsink.

http://www.bitbenderforums.com/imaginasian/Zalman_Mod/zalman.htm

Good luck,
Paul

Thanks for all your help Paul,

I'll give it all some thought but doubt I will be brave enough to try taking
the motherboard apart,
take it back is probably my speed.

cheers and thanks again

Daniel

 

[Daniel]

No, the MCX159-CU would _take the place_ of the Northbridge cooler. It
is an example of what an enthusiast would use, if they suspected a
cooling problem. You would have to remove the aluminum heatsink first,
and attach the new copper unit plus fan.

Another possible solution, is to mount a fan next to the current
Northbridge heatsink and blow cool air on it. But that only helps,
if the Northbridge is making good physical contact. I suspect in your
case, it is not making good contact.

Since push pins hold the P5SD2-X heatsink in place, there is no way to
tighten up the heatsink. The MCX159-CU, when put in place of the
Northbridge heatsink, uses screws.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcx159-CU.asp

So my showing you the MCX159-CU, is to show what can be purchased, if
you want to fix a cooling problem. Not everybody wants to take their
motherboard apart. But some people love stuff like that.

Push pins can be recycled. You don't have to cut them to remove them.
You pinch the tip together, on the solder side of the motherboard,
and then ease the pin upwards. The pin can be reused, at least for
a cycle or two.

You could also return the motherboard to your retailer, and try to
get a replacement unit. What I cannot tell you, is if you will eventually
get a motherboard, where the heatsink fits well.

To give an example of using a fan, I hold an 80mm fan next to my video
card, to increase the cooling. I use a piece of aluminum stock with an
"L" shaped cross-section. I bolt the aluminum bar to a PCI slot screw
hole. The fan is held to the bar, with nylon ties.

This is a commercial equivalent of my home brew solution. The FB-123 for
$9.
In your case, you would adjust the position of the fan, so it is over
top of the Northbridge heatsink.

http://www.bitbenderforums.com/imaginasian/Zalman_Mod/zalman.htm

Good luck,
Paul

Hi me again

I have tried to reset the RAM settings in the BIOS but cannot find where to
do it.

Any ideas?

thanks

Daniel

 

[Paul]

Hi me again

I have tried to reset the RAM settings in the BIOS but cannot find where to
do it.

Any ideas?

thanks

Daniel

There only appear to be two settings in your BIOS. In the "Northbridge SIS656
Configuration" is the setting for CAS, and it doesn't allow all possible
settings either, only CAS3, CAS4, or CAS5. So it doesn't even allow relaxing
a standard high speed memory.

The frequency is set via "AI Overclocking". You set that setting to "Manual"
and some other settings appear. And that is how other Asus BIOS work as well.
You enter the BIOS, and set as many things as have a Manual setting as possible,
and that exposes the maximum number of menu items.

In terms of the number of settings offered, the tendency is for a full sized
ATX board to have the best BIOS. The microATX BIOS tend to be simplified, because
the marketing department believes the motherboards to be intended for business
machines.

For any motherboard, I recommend downloading the manual and going through the
BIOS pages, since sometimes there are virtually no settings you can access.
And in that case, an end user can end up swapping a lot more hardware into
the board, trying to make it stable. The idea of adjusting timings, is to
make it stable, without having to RMA stuff.

Paul

 

[Daniel]

There only appear to be two settings in your BIOS. In the "Northbridge
SIS656
Configuration" is the setting for CAS, and it doesn't allow all possible
settings either, only CAS3, CAS4, or CAS5. So it doesn't even allow
relaxing
a standard high speed memory.

The frequency is set via "AI Overclocking". You set that setting to
"Manual"
and some other settings appear. And that is how other Asus BIOS work as
well.
You enter the BIOS, and set as many things as have a Manual setting as
possible,
and that exposes the maximum number of menu items.

In terms of the number of settings offered, the tendency is for a full
sized
ATX board to have the best BIOS. The microATX BIOS tend to be simplified,
because
the marketing department believes the motherboards to be intended for
business
machines.

For any motherboard, I recommend downloading the manual and going through
the
BIOS pages, since sometimes there are virtually no settings you can
access.
And in that case, an end user can end up swapping a lot more hardware into
the board, trying to make it stable. The idea of adjusting timings, is to
make it stable, without having to RMA stuff.

Paul

Once again, thanks

you have taught me a lot and been a big help,
I have saved all of your emails into my Help folder.

I am currently running a test on each stick seperately for 12 hours to see
if I can find the problem in an individual stick,
if I get no errors I will assume that there is definatly a heat problem and
I will turn down the settings, or motherboard problem, either way the vendor
can take care of it in the end, I just need the evidence.

best regards

Daniel

 

[Plato]

I have a PC running Vista Ultimate, I have 2560M RAM,

You want at least 1 gig of ram for Vista.