Quiet PC ?

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b4

Looking for recommendations for a quiet PC. I want to use it as a music
server with my hifi so being quiet (silent!) would be an advantage.
 
Whatever you get go for one of the touted 'silent' power supplies and make
it a water-cooled rig. Then you'll barely be able to hear it even with your
ear right on the computer case.
 
Looking for recommendations for a quiet PC. I want to use it as a music
server with my hifi so being quiet (silent!) would be an advantage.

Ideally it'd be something older, since serving audio over a
lan needs a trivial performance level. That means lower
cost and lower heat without wasting $ by underclocking newer
parts. It also means it would fit in a smaller chassis with
lower airflow requirements, cooling needs, and thus, lower
noise levels. You don't mention exactly how it's a server
and attached to the HiFi but I'm guessing the primary
requirement will be either dolby audio out or good analog,
meaning you may want to avoid integrated audio for the
latter.

Todays' heatsinks are so much larger than yesteryears' that
even the poor cheap ones can keep anything Pentium 3 or
older, completely silent with a fan throttled back to be
barely spinning. By chosing a CPU with higher FSB than 66,
you could take something like a Celeron 800 or Pentium III
and underclock to 66MHz FSB, and undervolt it if the mobo
allows it. Reducing FSB (and memory bus) also reduces
motherboard's power consumption, there is potential to end
up using even less power than a Via Epia type board because
it uses 133MHz FSB for video performance, yet you need no
video performance. Even so, integrated video will often
keep power and heat lower, or choose one of the older video
cards that didn't even have a passive heatsink. For example
an ATI Rage Pro Turbo or Rage XL runs so cool it's almost
amazing, even many (even) older cards ran hotter.


With that kind of setup, a single fan in the power supply,
running VERY slowly, can keep whole thing cool. Primarily
you'll want air intake to flow past the HDD, so keep that in
mind when choosing a case, or seal all other potential air
intake areas and leave only an opening right in front of the
HDD bay. Also see if you can put a duct on the bottom of
power supply, if so then you might not need the CPU heatsink
fan at all. Taking something like a Celeron 800, running at
533MHz and 1.45V, you shouldn't need a heatsink fan if you
have a decent passively designed (tall, space between tines
instead of long thinly space fins) heatsink.

As for more modern CPUs, I think http://www.tomshardware.com
has an article (somewhere) about underclocking a mobile
barton to something like 5-7W. Basically you'll be wanting
the CPU to run in the neighborhood of 300MHz at least, but
if your choice of OS supports ACPI HALT-cooling, a
significantly faster CPU will idle quite cool too, but if it
were to get stuck in a busy loop it would be a lot hotter,
so minimalistic cooling plans based on idle heat aren't
always foolproof... but if all it's doing is playing an MP3
or actually serving files over a lan, certainly it will be
idle most of the time unless something else is eating up CPU
cycles too.

Aren't there networked audio players now though? They may
cost quite a bit more but should also be much smaller, a;sp
quiet, and use even less power. Have no idea if they have
decent analog out though, if you need that feature.

An alternate way of looking at this is to determine what
case you want to use, and what it'll accomodate. Or,
consider the budget instead, many different CPUs can be
underclocked, but perhaps the early P4/Celeron is the
hardest since it starts with FSB that may be as low as the
motherboard supports and no multiplier change options.

A K6-2 is also a fair choice if you can find a socket 7
motherboard that gets along with your chosen sound card.
However most of the cases for those were relatively large
compared to some of the mATX and miniATX options available
today.

SO to a certain extent we need know more about what you're
doing with the box, the budget, and what access you have to
(which) older parts.
 
Looking for recommendations for a quiet PC. I want to use it as a music
server with my hifi so being quiet (silent!) would be an advantage.
get second hand older parts (you do not need a superpowerful machine
for the job you want) & do some silencing maybe with some downclocking
if needed. So you can run your fans @ 5V. Watercooling is an overkill
than! Than you will probably need to silence down a HD. See my site
solutions ...
 
Whatever you get go for one of the touted 'silent' power supplies and make
it a water-cooled rig. Then you'll barely be able to hear it even with your
ear right on the computer case.

And the sound of the pump ?

Regards,
Chris
 
thanks for the good info.

My plan is to use the PC + netgear MP101 as the interface.
Heard anything on these PCs http://www.tranquilpc.co.uk/ ?. I can get the T1
for £300.

Cheers

(top and bottom posted to keep some happy !)

kony said:
Ideally it'd be something older, since serving audio over a
lan needs a trivial performance level. That means lower
cost and lower heat without wasting $ by underclocking newer
parts. It also means it would fit in a smaller chassis with
lower airflow requirements, cooling needs, and thus, lower
noise levels. You don't mention exactly how it's a server
and attached to the HiFi but I'm guessing the primary
requirement will be either dolby audio out or good analog,
meaning you may want to avoid integrated audio for the
latter.

Todays' heatsinks are so much larger than yesteryears' that
even the poor cheap ones can keep anything Pentium 3 or
older, completely silent with a fan throttled back to be
barely spinning. By chosing a CPU with higher FSB than 66,
you could take something like a Celeron 800 or Pentium III
and underclock to 66MHz FSB, and undervolt it if the mobo
allows it. Reducing FSB (and memory bus) also reduces
motherboard's power consumption, there is potential to end
up using even less power than a Via Epia type board because
it uses 133MHz FSB for video performance, yet you need no
video performance. Even so, integrated video will often
keep power and heat lower, or choose one of the older video
cards that didn't even have a passive heatsink. For example
an ATI Rage Pro Turbo or Rage XL runs so cool it's almost
amazing, even many (even) older cards ran hotter.


With that kind of setup, a single fan in the power supply,
running VERY slowly, can keep whole thing cool. Primarily
you'll want air intake to flow past the HDD, so keep that in
mind when choosing a case, or seal all other potential air
intake areas and leave only an opening right in front of the
HDD bay. Also see if you can put a duct on the bottom of
power supply, if so then you might not need the CPU heatsink
fan at all. Taking something like a Celeron 800, running at
533MHz and 1.45V, you shouldn't need a heatsink fan if you
have a decent passively designed (tall, space between tines
instead of long thinly space fins) heatsink.

As for more modern CPUs, I think http://www.tomshardware.com
has an article (somewhere) about underclocking a mobile
barton to something like 5-7W. Basically you'll be wanting
the CPU to run in the neighborhood of 300MHz at least, but
if your choice of OS supports ACPI HALT-cooling, a
significantly faster CPU will idle quite cool too, but if it
were to get stuck in a busy loop it would be a lot hotter,
so minimalistic cooling plans based on idle heat aren't
always foolproof... but if all it's doing is playing an MP3
or actually serving files over a lan, certainly it will be
idle most of the time unless something else is eating up CPU
cycles too.

Aren't there networked audio players now though? They may
cost quite a bit more but should also be much smaller, a;sp
quiet, and use even less power. Have no idea if they have
decent analog out though, if you need that feature.

An alternate way of looking at this is to determine what
case you want to use, and what it'll accomodate. Or,
consider the budget instead, many different CPUs can be
underclocked, but perhaps the early P4/Celeron is the
hardest since it starts with FSB that may be as low as the
motherboard supports and no multiplier change options.

A K6-2 is also a fair choice if you can find a socket 7
motherboard that gets along with your chosen sound card.
However most of the cases for those were relatively large
compared to some of the mATX and miniATX options available
today.

SO to a certain extent we need know more about what you're
doing with the box, the budget, and what access you have to
(which) older parts.

thanks for the good info.

My plan is to use the PC + netgear MP101 as the interface.
Heard anything on these PCs http://www.tranquilpc.co.uk/ ?. I can get the T1
for £300.

Cheers
 
thanks for the good info.

My plan is to use the PC + netgear MP101 as the interface.
Heard anything on these PCs http://www.tranquilpc.co.uk/ ?. I can get the T1
for £300.


Do you really need another PC for use with the netgear
appliance?

All you'd need do is throw another hard drive in your main
(or whichever) PC, unless you really want to turn it off but
leave another one constantly running for no reason other
than this.

The Tranquilpc would probably do fine but this is the first
I've heard of them, can't recommend for or against. The
page shows at least one using a C3 and CLE266 chipset, which
I've heard has a lot of driver bugs and video isn't all that
great, but it may be sufficient if all you needed was basic
TV-Out or 2D monitor use. If that's what you wanted
(something similar) you could just build your own and have
greater control over parts and case selection, but since the
netgear is wireless you don't necessarily need such a tiny
case, in some situations it might be better to have a case
large enough to accomodate more hard drives, espcially if
you'd someday like to store video on it as well as audio.
 
b4 said:
Looking for recommendations for a quiet PC. I want to use it as a music
server with my hifi so being quiet (silent!) would be an advantage.

Antec claims their Aria case is the quietest in the world or something
like that.
 
cheers, thanks for your comments.

kony said:
Do you really need another PC for use with the netgear
appliance?

All you'd need do is throw another hard drive in your main
(or whichever) PC, unless you really want to turn it off but
leave another one constantly running for no reason other
than this.

The Tranquilpc would probably do fine but this is the first
I've heard of them, can't recommend for or against. The
page shows at least one using a C3 and CLE266 chipset, which
I've heard has a lot of driver bugs and video isn't all that
great, but it may be sufficient if all you needed was basic
TV-Out or 2D monitor use. If that's what you wanted
(something similar) you could just build your own and have
greater control over parts and case selection, but since the
netgear is wireless you don't necessarily need such a tiny
case, in some situations it might be better to have a case
large enough to accomodate more hard drives, espcially if
you'd someday like to store video on it as well as audio.
 
Looking for recommendations for a quiet PC. I want to use it as a music
server with my hifi so being quiet (silent!) would be an advantage.

I just upgraded (if that is the term) my PC to run quietly. I basically
bought everything at QuietPC.co.uk. I have replaced the motherboard chipset
cooler + fan with a big passive heatsink. I have a Zalman flower cooler on
the processor. I have installed a quiet Nexus 300W power supply. Replaced
the fan on my graphics card with a passive cooler. I have 2 fans blowing air
through the zalman heatsink and then out of a (new) hole in the case. I have
a fan sucking air in through 2 unused pci backplates and blowing onto my AGP
graphics card. So air comes in, cools the graphics card, floats around in
the case, then get blown through the CPU cooler and out of a (home made)
hole in the back of the case.

The fans used to run noisily at 12v, but I have modified them to run on the
5v circuit and they are silent (obviously slower, but sufficient). The
machine has turned from a wind tunnel (9 loud fans) to a very quiet PC - I
have to check the LEDs to see if it is on!. The only noise is the hard disk
'hum' and that is quiet because it is a samsung spinpoint 160 !

In order to keep the processor cool without loud fans, I have experimented
with the voltage. MY athlon 2400 is supposed to run at 1.65v. It is
perfectly stable at 1.5v, which means it runs cooler + needs less noisy
cooling! You should also investigate software cooling - CPUIdle for example.
It actually cools your CPU by issuing signals that turn it off when it is
not running - it can't generate any heat if it is turned off! I believe this
can interfere with video or sound, but in my experience this is not the
case.
 
thanks for the info.

Gareth Tuckwell said:
I just upgraded (if that is the term) my PC to run quietly. I basically
bought everything at QuietPC.co.uk. I have replaced the motherboard chipset
cooler + fan with a big passive heatsink. I have a Zalman flower cooler on
the processor. I have installed a quiet Nexus 300W power supply. Replaced
the fan on my graphics card with a passive cooler. I have 2 fans blowing air
through the zalman heatsink and then out of a (new) hole in the case. I have
a fan sucking air in through 2 unused pci backplates and blowing onto my AGP
graphics card. So air comes in, cools the graphics card, floats around in
the case, then get blown through the CPU cooler and out of a (home made)
hole in the back of the case.

The fans used to run noisily at 12v, but I have modified them to run on the
5v circuit and they are silent (obviously slower, but sufficient). The
machine has turned from a wind tunnel (9 loud fans) to a very quiet PC - I
have to check the LEDs to see if it is on!. The only noise is the hard disk
'hum' and that is quiet because it is a samsung spinpoint 160 !

In order to keep the processor cool without loud fans, I have experimented
with the voltage. MY athlon 2400 is supposed to run at 1.65v. It is
perfectly stable at 1.5v, which means it runs cooler + needs less noisy
cooling! You should also investigate software cooling - CPUIdle for example.
It actually cools your CPU by issuing signals that turn it off when it is
not running - it can't generate any heat if it is turned off! I believe this
can interfere with video or sound, but in my experience this is not the
case.
 
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