PSU Fan failed! is it worth fixing?

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Cookie

Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here,
the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being switched on,
then PC powers down and beeps.

the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.

would it be worth tryin to fix?

tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

cheers
 
Cookie said:
Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here,
the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being switched on,
then PC powers down and beeps.

the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.

would it be worth tryin to fix?

tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

cheers

Would it be worth trying to fix a power supply? Ummmmmmmm . . . NO. (Was
that a serious question?)

Replace it with a fortron/source, enermax or seasonic unit, asap. -Dave
 
Mike T. said:
Would it be worth trying to fix a power supply? Ummmmmmmm . . . NO. (Was
that a serious question?)

Replace it with a fortron/source, enermax or seasonic unit, asap. -Dave

Are you joking? Power supply fans are quite common and can be easily
replaced or upgraded for a few quid.
 
Are you joking? Power supply fans are quite common and can be easily
replaced or upgraded for a few quid.

Not joking at all. If you read what the OP wrote, you will see that a
faulty fan is not the only problem. -Dave
 
Gordy said:
Are you joking? Power supply fans are quite common and can be easily
replaced or upgraded for a few quid.

Yes, but the 3V rail fault is a different matter entirely.
 
Cookie said:
Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here, the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being
switched on, then PC powers down and beeps.
the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.
would it be worth tryin to fix?

Nope, that sort of fault with the 3V rail isnt that easy to fix.
tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

Worth trying anyway, they may be able to check their own records.
 
Yes, but the 3V rail fault is a different matter entirely.

Serious yes
Yes, but the 3V rail fault is a different matter entirely.

The back of PSU heats up a lot then the volts slowly drops to 2.75v thats
when
my Abit Guru alarm starts to beep its warning, then shortly after it shuts
down.

if I blow cool air up at it, (underside fan) the beeps stop and the PC
works ok, so i presume its only the fan which is at fault and causing the
volts to drop.
Are you joking? Power supply fans are quite common and can be easily
replaced or upgraded for a few quid.

Gonna see if I can fit a fan, has to be worth a try.

thx for replys ;-)
 
Cookie said:
Serious yes


The back of PSU heats up a lot then the volts slowly drops to 2.75v thats
when
my Abit Guru alarm starts to beep its warning, then shortly after it shuts
down.

if I blow cool air up at it, (underside fan) the beeps stop and the PC
works ok, so i presume its only the fan which is at fault and causing the
volts to drop.


Gonna see if I can fit a fan, has to be worth a try.

thx for replys ;-)

Thats what i was assuming.
 
Cookie said:
Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here,
the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being switched on,
then PC powers down and beeps.

the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.

Try applying alcohol the switch and sliding it back and forth several
times, in case it's contacts are dirty. Of course do this only with
the power cord unplugged, and wait a half hour for the alcohol to
evaporate completely before reapplying powre.
would it be worth tryin to fix?

Do either of you know how to make good electrical connections (not
"twist the wires" and cover them with tape"), and how much is a new
fan?
tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

No serial numbers? Then buy new identical Jeantech, swap old one for
it, and return old one as the new one. Honesty may be the best policy,
but honest dealers don't sell Jeantech.
 
Cookie said:
Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here,
the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being switched on,
then PC powers down and beeps.

the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.

would it be worth tryin to fix?

tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

cheers

Assuming the PSU is not a cheap piece of junk in the first place ...

Take the fan out and test it. If it is bad, rig a temporary cooling
solution (window fan or whatever) to see if the PSU is okay otherwise,
in which case you replace the fan.
 
Cookie said:
tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

Under the SOGA, you don't need a receipt, just proof of purchase. If you
paid by direct debit or credit card, the bill should suffice.
 
The concern is the 3.3V rail variation...
o 3.3V is remote sensed
o Other rails are tied to it often as not

So that the rail has varied so sharply indicates deeper
problems within the PSU which are not readily repaired.

Even if it appears replacing the fan may work, realise a
failed or failing PSU *can* take PC components with it.
That can mean expensive HD, M/Board, CPU & RAM.

There are many "really rough" PSUs out there, a lot of
label changing to hide the underlying offending object.

Choose a decent brand over wattage - but sufficient
wattage if a Dual-Core CPU & high end graphics in use.
Dual Core are 130W, high end graphics 60-120W, then
take 1GB ram as 10W, m/b 15W, HD 25W, Optical 20W.
Then allow a 15-20% margin to allow for future u/grades.
If non-Dual-Core, assume 95W for the CPU to be safe.
 
Got a mates Jeantech 430watt PSU here,
the 3.3v rail drops to 2.75v after a while being switched on,
then PC powers down and beeps.

the fan has stopped working, there is a switch on it
which has 3 settings High, Low and Auto, tried all 3 settings no avail.

would it be worth tryin to fix?

tut tut he got it from PC world 'he was in a hurry'
only a few months old but he's lost the reciept.

cheers

I've easily replaced PSU fans. Just be careful poking around
in there. I wouldn't "crack" it open till a few hours, or more after
unplugging it. I'm not sure how long they can hold a charge, but they
can be dangerous even unplugged.
 
Dorothy said:
The concern is the 3.3V rail variation...
o 3.3V is remote sensed
o Other rails are tied to it often as not

So that the rail has varied so sharply indicates deeper
problems within the PSU which are not readily repaired.

On the other hand voltage readings taken through the computer may be
inaccurate since the +3.3V line may power the voltage sensing chip,
and many motherboards now use only +3.3V directly (12V or 5V through
regulator).
 
I've easily replaced PSU fans. Just be careful poking around
in there. I wouldn't "crack" it open till a few hours, or more after
unplugging it. I'm not sure how long they can hold a charge,

There's normally a bleed resistor across them.
but they can be dangerous even unplugged.

Very rarely and its easy to measure the voltage
across the main filter caps if you're paranoid.
 
I opened up psu and the outer spindle of the fan is cracked and
the magnetic motor was messy, I cleaned the motor but still there
was resistance.

the fan has got extra wires for the automatic speed feature, so standard
fan wont do or not worth the hassle.
bin job!

I showed him these threads and he's wanting a new PSU

Told him to go for..

ANTEC
ThermalTake
Enermax
Seasonic

Thanks for all the replys ;-)
 
On the other hand voltage readings taken through the computer may be
inaccurate since the +3.3V line may power the voltage sensing chip,
and many motherboards now use only +3.3V directly (12V or 5V through
regulator).

Many motherboards now use only +12V directly :-)

If trying to save cost...
o Identify why the fan failed
---- electrical failure within the fan -- parametric failure is rare
-------- more common with simpler drive (more components)
-------- less common with ic drive (less components)
---- failure in power feed to the fan -- check wiring, voltage
-------- failure here may be on the board re variable speed
---- failure due to bearing -- more usually audible
-------- cheap PSUs will cut corners most on cooling
o If fan failed, determine if the PSU still works
---- replace fan
---- verify all outputs correct under full load
---- preferably NOT via using expensive computer parts

So overall I would still replace the PSU...
o Jeantech, Topower (Tagan) etc -- are not so good
o Sparkle/Forton/FSP-Group are ok -- slightly older designs
o Seasonic are much improved -- more recent designs
o Antec is variable -- some designs a little intolerant

Replacing a low quality PSU now is better than repairing it,
only to have to replace it & potentially components later.

PSUs vary in several respects...
o Primary/Secondary capacitor quality
---- both dislike high temperatures -- reduces life
---- both suffer premature failure -- if high ESR
---- low quality = high Effective Series Resistance = Heating
o Vstandby has increased over time
---- fan is non-operational during such time, some heat soak
---- more usually this ends up "warming over" secondary caps
o ATX compliance requires specific tolerance
---- short-circuit, shutdown, remove short, PSU operates ok
---- failures should be contained with limited smoke ejection
o Electrical approval requires certain quality
---- HiPot transformer is vacuum impregnated
-------- common cause of approval withdrawal is HiPot QC
---- varies across the UK/EU re which it is approved in
o Suppression/Filtering is an easy cost cutter
---- each component costs, reduce headcount & save cost
---- filtering is the first area to go
---- holdup time (during brownouts) the second to go
---- multiple voltage rails off one regulator another
---- fixed multiple off one rail, if that rail varies so do all
o Thermal system is another easy cost cutter
---- undersized heatsinks, undersized hi-pot, low spec fans
---- tricks to boost weight of heatsinks yet inefficient design

Look on the brightside - failure was contained vs system.
Many systems will limp along until more spectactular failures.
 
Only on decent ones - you can assume nothing about cheap & nasty ones.

Except assume the worst which is usually confirmed :-)

Consider how many components there are, and the price.
There is a baseline level below which things deteriorate rapidly.

Power-&-Cooling Conversion in the USA were rated as good mainly
because of reasonable designs & didn't "cut the components out". It
is better to have a solid design than nice paint job and whizzo label.
 
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