problem with my wireless mouse

  • Thread starter Thread starter friesian
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friesian

I have a Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 2.0. It was working fine
until this morning. I rebooted the computer for another reason, and
the computer crashed after the reboot. So, I rebooted again, and this
time it came up okay, but the mouse hasn't worked since.

The transmitter blinks at first and then quits. And the mouse is lit
up like normal. I have tried 3 sets of batteries, with no luck. I did
get a message one time that the mouse signal was low.

I have also downloaded the latest driver for it in case my old one was
lost. It still isn't working.

Any ideas?
 
I have a Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 2.0. It was working fine
until this morning. I rebooted the computer for another reason, and
the computer crashed after the reboot. So, I rebooted again, and this
time it came up okay, but the mouse hasn't worked since.

The transmitter blinks at first and then quits. And the mouse is lit
up like normal. I have tried 3 sets of batteries, with no luck. I did
get a message one time that the mouse signal was low.

I have also downloaded the latest driver for it in case my old one was
lost. It still isn't working.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Does the Device Manager have any errors showing ? It could be
that the driver is no longer loading properly for it.

If the transmitter is USB, you may be able to see it with this. These
are archived copies, of a file Microsoft no longer offers for download.

http://web.archive.org/*/http://dow...f-a31d-436b-9281-92cdfeae4b45/UVCView.x86.exe

The info in the right hand pane, as shown in this example, gives
you some idea whether the hardware device can be read at all.
If the minimum number of "pipes" is not set up, between the
device and the computer, then it means setup is not complete,
and likely any driver would be unhappy.

http://www.die.de/blog/content/binary/usbview.png

This can be used, to clean out all USB stuff, and have Windows
rediscover it. I haven't tried this myself. Set a restore point,
do a backup etc., before trying this.

See "RenewUSB.bat"
http://www.robvanderwoude.com/devcon.php

Paul
 
If the transmitter is USB, you may be able to see it with this. These
are archived copies, of a file Microsoft no longer offers for download.

http://web.archive.org/*/http://download.microsoft.com/download/e/b/a...
Click to expand...


I got some interesting results. It says that I have 6 hubs. I have 3
hubs with 2 ports built in on the front, 2 built in on the bag, and
one card that I added with 5 ports.

It says that I have 5 devices, but I have 6 plugged in, and 5 of them
are working. It shows my printer, scanner, external hard drive, and
human interface device. I have both a wireless keyboard and mouse,
with different transmitters as well as an extra wireless mouse that I
am using right now. Both the keyboard and the extra wireless mouse are
both working. Yet it only shows one "human interface device".

I'm going to play around with switching ports before I try the next
thing on your list. I know it powers okay, but maybe the signal isn't
good somehow.
 
Update.

It was a bad card. Strangely, it lights up at that usb port, but not
the other 3 ports on the same card. And once I switched to another usb
port, the mouse started working again. So, I guess I need to go get
another card. Otherwise, my printer and scanner have to share.

Thanks for the program link. It did help as I started plugging and
unplugging things to see what showed up. And I also discovered that my
wieless keyboard uses an identical transmitter, but does't use the
usb, so that's why that didn't show up.

Thanks again. It is working, and I know what to replace now.
 
[email protected] said:
I got some interesting results. It says that I have 6 hubs. I have 3
hubs with 2 ports built in on the front, 2 built in on the bag, and
one card that I added with 5 ports.

It says that I have 5 devices, but I have 6 plugged in, and 5 of them
are working. It shows my printer, scanner, external hard drive, and
human interface device. I have both a wireless keyboard and mouse,
with different transmitters as well as an extra wireless mouse that I
am using right now. Both the keyboard and the extra wireless mouse are
both working. Yet it only shows one "human interface device".

I'm going to play around with switching ports before I try the next
thing on your list. I know it powers okay, but maybe the signal isn't
good somehow.
Click to expand...

I don't read the link to know what it says, but after you have gone
through all trouble looking at the devices loaded. You may also wanna look
at these.

- Start with some fresh batteries

- Check the connection make sure they are tight, if it doesn't work then
change to different USB port (I guess it's USB device).

- And don't forget to push some button's on either reciever or transmitter
to make sure they communicate with each other.

I don't have what you have, and don't know what you have so I can only
give the general trouble-shooting info.
 
[email protected] said:
Update.

It was a bad card. Strangely, it lights up at that usb port, but not
the other 3 ports on the same card. And once I switched to another usb
port, the mouse started working again. So, I guess I need to go get
another card. Otherwise, my printer and scanner have to share.

Thanks for the program link. It did help as I started plugging and
unplugging things to see what showed up. And I also discovered that my
wieless keyboard uses an identical transmitter, but does't use the
usb, so that's why that didn't show up.

Thanks again. It is working, and I know what to replace now.
Click to expand...

You may and may not need to buy another card as this has happened more
often than we would like too. And sometime it happens on the USB directly
from the momboard, and we can't afford to replace the newer momboard
everytime it happens.
 
Update.

It was a bad card. Strangely, it lights up at that usb port, but not
the other 3 ports on the same card. And once I switched to another usb
port, the mouse started working again. So, I guess I need to go get
another card. Otherwise, my printer and scanner have to share.

Thanks for the program link. It did help as I started plugging and
unplugging things to see what showed up. And I also discovered that my
wieless keyboard uses an identical transmitter, but does't use the
usb, so that's why that didn't show up.

Thanks again. It is working, and I know what to replace now.
Click to expand...

Good work. For once the program did some good :-)

Paul
 
I have a Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 2.0. It was working fine
until this morning. I rebooted the computer for another reason, and
the computer crashed after the reboot. So, I rebooted again, and this
time it came up okay, but the mouse hasn't worked since.

The transmitter blinks at first and then quits. And the mouse is lit
up like normal. I have tried 3 sets of batteries, with no luck. I did
get a message one time that the mouse signal was low.

I have also downloaded the latest driver for it in case my old one was
lost. It still isn't working.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I own that particular model myself. It likely isn't the driver or the
batteries. If it were the batteries, the mouse driver will give you a
low battery warning. A couple of Duracells lasted me almost a year
before I got the warning. I suspect that interference has caused the
mouse to lose sync with the base puck.

Hit the reset buttons on both the base puck and the mouse. You'll need
a pen or pencil for the mouse as it's recessed. Keep the mouse moving
around. They'll both rotate through their frequencies until they sync
up. You'll know it's happened when the mouse starts to work. If it's
jerky, start over, as the frequency is likely in use and you're getting
interference. You'll probably need to re-sync every once in a while, as
it's one of the trade offs of going with a wireless device.

What I think you're running into is one of the pain in the ass things
about wireless peripherals. That is, as more and more people buy these
things, the more interference there is.

Another thing is that to improve the reception, you should move the base
puck closer to your mouse. That should reduce the effect of other
people's signals, even if the neighbor in the next apartment owns the
same model. While the puck is ugly, and one might be tempted to keep it
out of sight, it does seem to work better if it's within 2 feet of the
mouse.
 
        You may and may not need to buy another card as this has happened more
often than we would like too.  And sometime it happens on the USB directly
from the momboard, and we can't afford to replace the newer momboard
everytime it happens.
Click to expand...

I actually bought the card last year because the usb ports on the back
of the computer were not very useful. Two do not work, and the other
two are the older usb ports. Fine for printers or the mouse, but not
so good for scanners, external hard drives, etc. The two ports on the
front of the computer work great, but I have to keep changing out what
is plugged in. Even with the ports on the back, I still use the front
for 2 external drives, an mp3 player, and my card reader since they
all get used with both my desktop and laptop. The card on the back was
supposed to be for all the long term items like the printers, scanner,
and mouse. I've only got one printer hooked up right now, so, it is
only the two, and they are plugged into the slow ports.

What I find odd is that one port still works fine (the one that is
inside the computer, but on the same card. I have an extension cord
plugged into it so that it can be used. And one port on the back of
the card powers up but doesn't seem to work anymore. That;s the one
that the mouse was previously plugged into. The other 3 ports do not
cause the transmitter to light up, while the one does). I would think
the whole card would die rather than 3 1/2 of 5 ports.
 
What I think you're running into is one of the pain in the ass things
about wireless peripherals.  That is, as more and more people buy these
things, the more interference there is.
Click to expand...


I did all that multiple times with no luck. The only wireless devices
I have are the keyboard and mouse.

Another thing is that to improve the reception, you should move the base
puck closer to your mouse.  That should reduce the effect of other
people's signals, even if the neighbor in the next apartment owns the
same model.  While the puck is ugly, and one might be tempted to keep it
out of sight, it does seem to work better if it's within 2 feet of the
mouse.
Click to expand...


I keep the puck on the desk right next to the monitor. It is about 14"
from the mouse with a direct line of sight.

I did get the mouse to work again when i changed to a usb port that
was not on the same usb card.
 
[email protected] said:
I actually bought the card last year because the usb ports on the back
of the computer were not very useful. Two do not work, and the other
two are the older usb ports. Fine for printers or the mouse, but not
so good for scanners, external hard drives, etc. The two ports on the
front of the computer work great, but I have to keep changing out what
is plugged in. Even with the ports on the back, I still use the front
for 2 external drives, an mp3 player, and my card reader since they
all get used with both my desktop and laptop. The card on the back was
supposed to be for all the long term items like the printers, scanner,
and mouse. I've only got one printer hooked up right now, so, it is
only the two, and they are plugged into the slow ports.

What I find odd is that one port still works fine (the one that is
inside the computer, but on the same card. I have an extension cord
plugged into it so that it can be used. And one port on the back of
the card powers up but doesn't seem to work anymore. That;s the one
that the mouse was previously plugged into. The other 3 ports do not
cause the transmitter to light up, while the one does). I would think
the whole card would die rather than 3 1/2 of 5 ports.
Click to expand...

You don't say what kind of momboard you have, but I guess it's a pretty
old momboard. Mine is several years old, and the one(s) before that already
have 4 USB2 ports.
 
I actually bought the card last year because the usb ports on the back
of the computer were not very useful. Two do not work, and the other
two are the older usb ports. Fine for printers or the mouse, but not
so good for scanners, external hard drives, etc. The two ports on the
front of the computer work great, but I have to keep changing out what
is plugged in. Even with the ports on the back, I still use the front
for 2 external drives, an mp3 player, and my card reader since they
all get used with both my desktop and laptop. The card on the back was
supposed to be for all the long term items like the printers, scanner,
and mouse. I've only got one printer hooked up right now, so, it is
only the two, and they are plugged into the slow ports.

What I find odd is that one port still works fine (the one that is
inside the computer, but on the same card. I have an extension cord
plugged into it so that it can be used. And one port on the back of
the card powers up but doesn't seem to work anymore. That;s the one
that the mouse was previously plugged into. The other 3 ports do not
cause the transmitter to light up, while the one does). I would think
the whole card would die rather than 3 1/2 of 5 ports.
Click to expand...

Many times a ports USB 5 volt output quits usually due to an overload of
some kind from the device plugged into it.

Most of them have an automatically resetting fuse (as in a circuit breaker)
on them so they work again after a power cycle and with the problem device
unplugged. Some of the older or cheaper units have a one-time fuse which
dies. On ports with a blown fuse, devices that are not powered by the 5
volts from the USB port may still work just fine.
 
        You don't say what kind of momboard you have, but I guessit's a pretty
old momboard.  Mine is several years old, and the one(s) before that already
have 4 USB2 ports.
Click to expand...

I think it is 3-4 years old. I bought it about 2 years ago from a guy
who built it and then decided he wanted a laptop. The ports on the
front are definitely 2.0. I think the back ones are as well, but they
don't work as well.

Somewhere I have the box with the books that came with all the parts
since the guy saved everything.
 
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