dylpkls91 said:
Thank you very much for your reply. I looked at powerleap.com, and the
sink with heatpipes looks like a good idea. Or would this do the
trick? Reviewed great. It's got a fan, so wouldn't it be better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106606 Out of
the two, which would you go with? They are about the same price. I'm
not a gamer, mostly graphic design/media/video compression. Quiet
would be nice though.
I'll still get my proc from newegg, the ones on powerleap are really
expensive in comparison. I'll also pick up some Arctic Silver, even
though I will install the cpu once and never touch it again. I guess
I'll just scrape off the preapplied stuff, right?
One last thing: will a 250W power supply be OK for the proc I want?
All I have is mobo, cpu, fan, 1 hard drive, 1 optical drive, no
floppy.
Thanks again!
Dylan
I only suggested the Powerleap solution, because it fits in the space
of the current cooler. If the plastic duct is removed, that would
make more room for a third-party cooler. The only question then would
be, would the 80mm cooler, spread the processor heat around the
computer case, before the rear fan has a chance to remove it.
The Dell solution, pulls the exhaust air through the CPU heatsink,
thereby preventing the CPU heat from spreading into the computer
case. You can try the TR2-M12 if you like, but I'd want to monitor the
temperatures of computer case (motherboard temp) and CPU temp,
for both the before and after cases, to see if the change has an
adverse effect.
Think of it this way. If Dell could save on the plastic fan duct,
by just using the cooler you have in mind, they probably would
have done it.
The 250W supply limit is harder to figure out. On the one hand,
it is an extra 17 watts, which isn't much more.
The processor usually runs from the 12V rail. The Vcore converter,
turns the 12V, into the 1.5V or so, that the processor needs.
The converter is about 90% efficient (some loss present as heat).
(89W/12V) * (1/0.90) = 8.24 amps from the 12V rail. Hard drive is
about 0.6 amps, CDROM (when disc is present) is 1.5 amps, fans are
0.5 amps or so. Video card would also draw power, if one were present,
but your computer has integrated graphics, so none of that is 12V power.
Your total 12V rail is about 8.24+0.6+1.5+0.5 = 10.84 amps.
There are several limits to check. I cannot work them all out. The
computer total power would be the parts we now know, like 12V * 10.84A = 130W
plus an allocation of 50W for the motherboard, 10W for the 5V rail feeding
the disk and CDROM, 10W for standby power. That is a total of about 200W.
So the peak power load is pretty close to the supply capacity, as you'd
expect on a small supply. The amount of that, that is on the 3.3V or
the 5V rail is unknown. My motherboard is from a similar generation, and
my motherboard leans pretty hard on the 3.3V rail (about 14 amps or so).
Some of my power on 3.3V is for a video card, so yours will be considerably
less (maybe 8 amps). But that is purely guessing, because the designers are
free to mess about as they wish with that stuff.
Based on the little I know, I'd say you are still OK. Just watch your
computer case temperatures, to get some idea as to whether you've messed
up the cooling too much or not. If there is no hardware monitor in the machine,
you can always use a room thermometer to check the case temp. The reason for
keeping the case cool, is so the hard drive doesn't get too hot.
The power supply ratings are usually printed on a label on the side of the
supply. You can compare the above numbers, against what is printed on your
supply. Basically, you want to check that the 12V rail has at least 11 amps
and preferably more, to offer.
Paul
