G
Guest
Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States when
I move back?
Thanks
I move back?
Thanks
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G
Guest
if you check the back of the computer their may be a switch on the power
supply to change the voltage, must them have a little red slider switch.
WARNING : Do not move this switch until get to the states as you can
seriously damage your computer running it at the wrong voltage !!!
Andy W
supply to change the voltage, must them have a little red slider switch.
WARNING : Do not move this switch until get to the states as you can
seriously damage your computer running it at the wrong voltage !!!
Andy W
J
John John
Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change the
input selection switch.
John
input selection switch.
John
P
Phil Weldon
'John John' wrote:
| Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change the
| input selection switch.
_____
A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
Phil Weldon
| Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change the
| input selection switch.
|
| John
|
| OrbeaKickA wrote:
|
| > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| > I move back?
| > Thanks
| Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change the
| input selection switch.
_____
A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
Phil Weldon
| Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change the
| input selection switch.
|
| John
|
| OrbeaKickA wrote:
|
| > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| > I move back?
| > Thanks
J
John John
Excuse me, a power converter.
John
John
P
Phil Weldon
'OrbeaKickA' wrote in the post "Packard Bell Pc running at 230 voltage
overseas":
| Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| I move back?
| Thanks
_____
First, this is a hardware question, and the newsgroup is aimed at the
Windows XP operating system. You should read your Packard Bell PC manual to
discover how the power supply can be used with different voltages, or
contact Packard Bell.
There are several possibilities.
#1. There may be a switch on the power supply with two positions - 230
VAC & 120 VAC
#2. The power supply may automatically switch to the correct voltage.
#3. The 230 VAC supply will not work with 120 VAC.
If #1. or #2. is the case, problem solved; all you need is a power cord with
the correct male plug for the wall socket (remember to set the correct
voltage if that is done by a switch on the power supply. If you
accidentally set the voltage to 230 VAC and connect to 120 VAC, no problem,
the power supply just will not work, and no harm done. On the other hand,
if you set the voltage to 120 VAC and connect to 230 VAC, at a minimum the
fuse in the supply will be blown, and at worst the power supply will be
trash.
If #3. is the case, you will need to replace the power supply.
If your computer is a laptop, the power supply is outboard, and you can
just replace the supply with one for the correct voltage.
If your compute is a desktop, the power supply is likely easy to replace
(unless Packard Bell uses an odd size power supply, or one with odd
connectors.) You may want a good repair shop to replace the power supply in
a desktop.
Most likely either #1. or #2. is the case. The power supplies are switching
power supplies, and it is relatively easy for a switching power supply to
work 230 VAC and 120 VAC. Also, since computer power supplies are switching
power supplies, a power adapter is not appropriate. You will need a new
power cord with the correct male plug for the wall socket.
Phil Weldon
| Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| I move back?
| Thanks
overseas":
| Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| I move back?
| Thanks
_____
First, this is a hardware question, and the newsgroup is aimed at the
Windows XP operating system. You should read your Packard Bell PC manual to
discover how the power supply can be used with different voltages, or
contact Packard Bell.
There are several possibilities.
#1. There may be a switch on the power supply with two positions - 230
VAC & 120 VAC
#2. The power supply may automatically switch to the correct voltage.
#3. The 230 VAC supply will not work with 120 VAC.
If #1. or #2. is the case, problem solved; all you need is a power cord with
the correct male plug for the wall socket (remember to set the correct
voltage if that is done by a switch on the power supply. If you
accidentally set the voltage to 230 VAC and connect to 120 VAC, no problem,
the power supply just will not work, and no harm done. On the other hand,
if you set the voltage to 120 VAC and connect to 230 VAC, at a minimum the
fuse in the supply will be blown, and at worst the power supply will be
trash.
If #3. is the case, you will need to replace the power supply.
If your computer is a laptop, the power supply is outboard, and you can
just replace the supply with one for the correct voltage.
If your compute is a desktop, the power supply is likely easy to replace
(unless Packard Bell uses an odd size power supply, or one with odd
connectors.) You may want a good repair shop to replace the power supply in
a desktop.
Most likely either #1. or #2. is the case. The power supplies are switching
power supplies, and it is relatively easy for a switching power supply to
work 230 VAC and 120 VAC. Also, since computer power supplies are switching
power supplies, a power adapter is not appropriate. You will need a new
power cord with the correct male plug for the wall socket.
Phil Weldon
| Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the States
when
| I move back?
| Thanks
T
Tom [Pepper] Willett
Phil: What *is* the way to go?
Tom
Tom
P
Phil Weldon
'Tom [Pepper] Willett' wrote:
| Phil: What *is* the way to go?
_____
The power supplies for desktop and laptop computers are switching power
supplies. A power adapter (or converter) would have to produce a pretty
clean sine wave AC output to work correctly with a switching power supply.
An auto transformer or isolation transformer between the mains power and the
switching power supply would also be a problem because of possible mismatch
between the inductive load of the transformer and the input to the switching
supply. Not to mention that if the system in question is a desktop, the
adapter would need to be pretty hefty.
The much better solution is the one I posted in reply to the original
poster. The problem is most likely already solved as the original supply
already can work with 230 VAC or 120 VAC. And, if it can not, replacing the
original power supply is the best and least expensive route.
Phil Weldon
| Phil: What *is* the way to go?
|
| Tom
|
| >
| > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > |
| > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
| > States
| > when
| > | > I move back?
| > | > Thanks
| >
| >
|
|
| Phil: What *is* the way to go?
_____
The power supplies for desktop and laptop computers are switching power
supplies. A power adapter (or converter) would have to produce a pretty
clean sine wave AC output to work correctly with a switching power supply.
An auto transformer or isolation transformer between the mains power and the
switching power supply would also be a problem because of possible mismatch
between the inductive load of the transformer and the input to the switching
supply. Not to mention that if the system in question is a desktop, the
adapter would need to be pretty hefty.
The much better solution is the one I posted in reply to the original
poster. The problem is most likely already solved as the original supply
already can work with 230 VAC or 120 VAC. And, if it can not, replacing the
original power supply is the best and least expensive route.
Phil Weldon
| Phil: What *is* the way to go?
|
| Tom
|
| >
| > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > |
| > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
| > States
| > when
| > | > I move back?
| > | > Thanks
| >
| >
|
|
P
Phil Weldon
'John John' wrote:
| Excuse me, a power converter.
_____
No, not that either. See my posts above and below.
Phil Weldon
| Excuse me, a power converter.
|
| John
|
| Phil Weldon wrote:
| > 'John John' wrote:
| > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > _____
| >
| > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > |
| > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
States
| > when
| > | > I move back?
| > | > Thanks
| >
| >
| Excuse me, a power converter.
_____
No, not that either. See my posts above and below.
Phil Weldon
| Excuse me, a power converter.
|
| John
|
| Phil Weldon wrote:
| > 'John John' wrote:
| > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > _____
| >
| > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it change
the
| > | input selection switch.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > |
| > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
States
| > when
| > | > I move back?
| > | > Thanks
| >
| >
J
John John
Something like this would work just fine Phil:
http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog91_0.html
If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
For all it's worth you should know that the power coming from the grid
in North America fluctuates by 10% or more. You should also know that
the power supplied in Canada is rated at 120V while the power in the US
is rated at 110V, yet computers supplied for North American consumers
are not affected by this difference in the power voltage. In reality
power supplied in North America will be anywheres between 105 volts to
130 volts and will be different from one day to the next depending on
the demand on the grid.
John
http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog91_0.html
If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
For all it's worth you should know that the power coming from the grid
in North America fluctuates by 10% or more. You should also know that
the power supplied in Canada is rated at 120V while the power in the US
is rated at 110V, yet computers supplied for North American consumers
are not affected by this difference in the power voltage. In reality
power supplied in North America will be anywheres between 105 volts to
130 volts and will be different from one day to the next depending on
the demand on the grid.
John
P
Phil Weldon
'John John' wrote, in part:
| If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
| could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
| ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
..
..
_____
Doesn't your suggestion seem an awfully complicated approach?
And expensive?
When the more likely solutions are to read the manual, and either do nothing
or flip a switch? (Specifications for ATX power supplies require
functioning in the 120 VAC and 220 VAC range, either automatically or by a
manual switch.)
And when the original poster needs a permanent solution?
You are correct in that switching power supplies can handle a broader range
of input AC than, say, an air conditioner.
But then that's not the point.
Canada and the USA both have 60 Hz 120 VAC nominal power, use the same
power cord plugs, and share a power grid.
Phil Weldon
| Something like this would work just fine Phil:
|
| http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog91_0.html
|
| If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
| could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
| ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
|
| For all it's worth you should know that the power coming from the grid
| in North America fluctuates by 10% or more. You should also know that
| the power supplied in Canada is rated at 120V while the power in the US
| is rated at 110V, yet computers supplied for North American consumers
| are not affected by this difference in the power voltage. In reality
| power supplied in North America will be anywheres between 105 volts to
| 130 volts and will be different from one day to the next depending on
| the demand on the grid.
|
| John
|
| Phil Weldon wrote:
|
| > 'John John' wrote:
| > | Excuse me, a power converter.
| > _____
| >
| > No, not that either. See my posts above and below.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Excuse me, a power converter.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | Phil Weldon wrote:
| > | > 'John John' wrote:
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it
change
| > the
| > | > | input selection switch.
| > | > _____
| > | >
| > | > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| > | >
| > | > Phil Weldon
| > | >
| > | > | > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it
change
| > the
| > | > | input selection switch.
| > | > |
| > | > | John
| > | > |
| > | > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > | > |
| > | > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
| > States
| > | > when
| > | > | > I move back?
| > | > | > Thanks
| > | >
| > | >
| >
| >
|
| If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
| could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
| ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
..
..
_____
Doesn't your suggestion seem an awfully complicated approach?
And expensive?
When the more likely solutions are to read the manual, and either do nothing
or flip a switch? (Specifications for ATX power supplies require
functioning in the 120 VAC and 220 VAC range, either automatically or by a
manual switch.)
And when the original poster needs a permanent solution?
You are correct in that switching power supplies can handle a broader range
of input AC than, say, an air conditioner.
But then that's not the point.
Canada and the USA both have 60 Hz 120 VAC nominal power, use the same
power cord plugs, and share a power grid.
Phil Weldon
| Something like this would work just fine Phil:
|
| http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog91_0.html
|
| If you're worried that the power from it isn't clean enough then you
| could attach an uninterruptible power supply to it. UPS like the better
| ones manufactured by APC condition and regulate the power output.
|
| For all it's worth you should know that the power coming from the grid
| in North America fluctuates by 10% or more. You should also know that
| the power supplied in Canada is rated at 120V while the power in the US
| is rated at 110V, yet computers supplied for North American consumers
| are not affected by this difference in the power voltage. In reality
| power supplied in North America will be anywheres between 105 volts to
| 130 volts and will be different from one day to the next depending on
| the demand on the grid.
|
| John
|
| Phil Weldon wrote:
|
| > 'John John' wrote:
| > | Excuse me, a power converter.
| > _____
| >
| > No, not that either. See my posts above and below.
| >
| > Phil Weldon
| >
| > | > | Excuse me, a power converter.
| > |
| > | John
| > |
| > | Phil Weldon wrote:
| > | > 'John John' wrote:
| > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it
change
| > the
| > | > | input selection switch.
| > | > _____
| > | >
| > | > A power adapter is NOT the way to go.
| > | >
| > | > Phil Weldon
| > | >
| > | > | > | > | Get a power adapter for it or if the power supply permits it
change
| > the
| > | > | input selection switch.
| > | > |
| > | > | John
| > | > |
| > | > | OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > | > |
| > | > | > Does anyone know a way to convert this PC so I can run it in the
| > States
| > | > when
| > | > | > I move back?
| > | > | > Thanks
| > | >
| > | >
| >
| >
|
W
w_tom
Phil Weldon has repeatedly provided an electrically superior solution
- that is much less expensive and more reliable. Why spend $31 or 36
for something already inside any minimally acceptable computer?
Furthermore, if voltage converter outputs excess noise, then what will
a UPS from APC do? That APC may switch to and remain running from
batteries in response to dirty electricity from the converter.
UPS typically do nothing for clean power. Its purpose is only to
protect data from blackouts and brownouts. And in battery backup mode,
many UPSes output power so dirty as to be harmful to some small
electric motors. These are called computer grade UPSes because dirty
electricity is not destructive to computers. Computer power supplies
are some of the most robust - which is why computer grade UPSes can
output electricity so dirty.
Meanwhile, total nonsense that American power varies by 10%. First,
American utilty voltage must not vary by more than 5%. Second, line
voltage can drop well over 20% AND computer must work just fine - as
even required by Intel specs and as was an industry standard
requirement 30+ years ago.
Phil has noted a red switch found on computer power supplies. Other
power supplies (especially all portable electronics such as laptops,
video cameras, electric razors, cell phones, etc) have universal power
supplies. That means it works on any voltage from 90 to 265 volts - no
human intervention required. IOW a human first reads appliance label
to learn voltage limits. If label does not state every voltage from 90
to 265 volts, then appliance may have a red switch to select 120 or 230
volt operation.
Meanwhile most monitors have universal supplies. Again, first read
the label - learn what are voltage limits unique for every appliance.
Most appliance only require a new power cord for that country's unique
wall receptacle.
- that is much less expensive and more reliable. Why spend $31 or 36
for something already inside any minimally acceptable computer?
Furthermore, if voltage converter outputs excess noise, then what will
a UPS from APC do? That APC may switch to and remain running from
batteries in response to dirty electricity from the converter.
UPS typically do nothing for clean power. Its purpose is only to
protect data from blackouts and brownouts. And in battery backup mode,
many UPSes output power so dirty as to be harmful to some small
electric motors. These are called computer grade UPSes because dirty
electricity is not destructive to computers. Computer power supplies
are some of the most robust - which is why computer grade UPSes can
output electricity so dirty.
Meanwhile, total nonsense that American power varies by 10%. First,
American utilty voltage must not vary by more than 5%. Second, line
voltage can drop well over 20% AND computer must work just fine - as
even required by Intel specs and as was an industry standard
requirement 30+ years ago.
Phil has noted a red switch found on computer power supplies. Other
power supplies (especially all portable electronics such as laptops,
video cameras, electric razors, cell phones, etc) have universal power
supplies. That means it works on any voltage from 90 to 265 volts - no
human intervention required. IOW a human first reads appliance label
to learn voltage limits. If label does not state every voltage from 90
to 265 volts, then appliance may have a red switch to select 120 or 230
volt operation.
Meanwhile most monitors have universal supplies. Again, first read
the label - learn what are voltage limits unique for every appliance.
Most appliance only require a new power cord for that country's unique
wall receptacle.
G
Guest
Thank you all. I've been out so haven't been able to ask for additional
info. The desktop PC in question does not have a switch in back, but does
show on it's label on the shell that it's AC Input is 220-230 VAC. So then
can I assume it's inside power supply will have to be changed to 120v? By
the way, the monitor does show on it's label a 100 - 240V power capability -
thanks for that, that one's easy since it's universal.
info. The desktop PC in question does not have a switch in back, but does
show on it's label on the shell that it's AC Input is 220-230 VAC. So then
can I assume it's inside power supply will have to be changed to 120v? By
the way, the monitor does show on it's label a 100 - 240V power capability -
thanks for that, that one's easy since it's universal.
W
w_tom
One final point I forgot to mention. Do not change that 120/230 volt
switch when power cord is connected. Computer is still powered - some
circuits operating - even when computer appears off. Changing that
switch when power is applied can cause hardware damage. First pull AC
plug before changing a voltage selector.
Connector on rear of that monitor and computer would be IEC type.
Simply leave European cord at home. Buy an American power cord for
American type AC wall receptacles.
switch when power cord is connected. Computer is still powered - some
circuits operating - even when computer appears off. Changing that
switch when power is applied can cause hardware damage. First pull AC
plug before changing a voltage selector.
Connector on rear of that monitor and computer would be IEC type.
Simply leave European cord at home. Buy an American power cord for
American type AC wall receptacles.
G
Guest
Forgive me if I've missed something... so even if there's no 120/230 switch
on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
monitor will work simply with a new plug).
Thanks again
on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
monitor will work simply with a new plug).
Thanks again
P
Phil Weldon
'OrbeaKickA' wrote:
| Forgive me if I've missed something... so even if there's no 120/230
switch
| on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
| plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
| power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
| monitor will work simply with a new plug).
| Thanks again
_____
If there is no 120/230 VAC switch you should look for a label (the label
stating the permissible input voltage may be on the side of the power supply
rather than the rear) stating that the power supply will work automatically
on 120 VAC and 230 VAC, you should NOT assume that it will. You should
check your manual and/or get in touch with the manufacturer of the system.
The power supply SHOULD be designed to work with 120 VAC AND 230 VAC; that
is what the specifications call for ATX type computer power supplies. You
could just try it with 120 VAC; if the power supply for some odd and
unlikely reason is not designed for 120 VAC and is for 230 VAC only, your
computer will not start. No damage will be done.
Phil Weldon
| Forgive me if I've missed something... so even if there's no 120/230
switch
| on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
| plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
| power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
| monitor will work simply with a new plug).
| Thanks again
|
| "w_tom" wrote:
|
| > One final point I forgot to mention. Do not change that 120/230 volt
| > switch when power cord is connected. Computer is still powered - some
| > circuits operating - even when computer appears off. Changing that
| > switch when power is applied can cause hardware damage. First pull AC
| > plug before changing a voltage selector.
| >
| > Connector on rear of that monitor and computer would be IEC type.
| > Simply leave European cord at home. Buy an American power cord for
| > American type AC wall receptacles.
| >
| > OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > > Thank you all. I've been out so haven't been able to ask for
additional
| > > info. The desktop PC in question does not have a switch in back, but
does
| > > show on it's label on the shell that it's AC Input is 220-230 VAC. So
then
| > > can I assume it's inside power supply will have to be changed to 120v?
By
| > > the way, the monitor does show on it's label a 100 - 240V power
capability -
| > > thanks for that, that one's easy since it's universal.
| >
| >
| Forgive me if I've missed something... so even if there's no 120/230
switch
| on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
| plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
| power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
| monitor will work simply with a new plug).
| Thanks again
_____
If there is no 120/230 VAC switch you should look for a label (the label
stating the permissible input voltage may be on the side of the power supply
rather than the rear) stating that the power supply will work automatically
on 120 VAC and 230 VAC, you should NOT assume that it will. You should
check your manual and/or get in touch with the manufacturer of the system.
The power supply SHOULD be designed to work with 120 VAC AND 230 VAC; that
is what the specifications call for ATX type computer power supplies. You
could just try it with 120 VAC; if the power supply for some odd and
unlikely reason is not designed for 120 VAC and is for 230 VAC only, your
computer will not start. No damage will be done.
Phil Weldon
| Forgive me if I've missed something... so even if there's no 120/230
switch
| on the PC to change to 120, I can simply buy a power cord with an American
| plug, and it will be OK when I plug it back in? I don't have to buy a new
| power supply, just change the plug, is that correct? ( I do realize the
| monitor will work simply with a new plug).
| Thanks again
|
| "w_tom" wrote:
|
| > One final point I forgot to mention. Do not change that 120/230 volt
| > switch when power cord is connected. Computer is still powered - some
| > circuits operating - even when computer appears off. Changing that
| > switch when power is applied can cause hardware damage. First pull AC
| > plug before changing a voltage selector.
| >
| > Connector on rear of that monitor and computer would be IEC type.
| > Simply leave European cord at home. Buy an American power cord for
| > American type AC wall receptacles.
| >
| > OrbeaKickA wrote:
| > > Thank you all. I've been out so haven't been able to ask for
additional
| > > info. The desktop PC in question does not have a switch in back, but
does
| > > show on it's label on the shell that it's AC Input is 220-230 VAC. So
then
| > > can I assume it's inside power supply will have to be changed to 120v?
By
| > > the way, the monitor does show on it's label a 100 - 240V power
capability -
| > > thanks for that, that one's easy since it's universal.
| >
| >