P4P800 - Newbie wants this mobo!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Steve Conniff
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Steve Conniff

Hello everyone,

I've decided to build my first system and I've decided on the Asus
p4p800 mobo (non-deluxe) w/ a P4 C2.4 GHz processor. This board was
recommended by a friend, but I've been reading a ton on it and people
either love it or hate it. From what I've read, most issues turn out
to be memory related. I was hoping some people could help me with a few
questions before I make my purchase:

1. I would like to use dual-channel DDR memory. I'll probably get 2
sticks of 256MB. Can someone recommend a brand and model of 256 modules
that will work with this board with no issues? Also, do you recommend
3200 DDR or do I need to go to 3500 DDR?

2. I need a case. I've been looking at an Antec and don't want to spend
a fortune. I think I need at least a 350 watt PSU as well. Can someone
recommend a good case w/ a decent PSU?

3. I heard the the front USB ports on this board are difficult to
install. Do you think I'll be in trouble as a first time builder? I
also heard they're not 2.0 compliant, but I think I can go to Asus'
website to get an update for that....


Thank you very very much!

Steve
 
This board was
recommended by a friend, but I've been reading a ton on it and people
either love it or hate it.
Click to expand...

It's an excellent board.
1. I would like to use dual-channel DDR memory. I'll probably get 2
sticks of 256MB. Can someone recommend a brand and model of 256 modules
that will work with this board with no issues? Also, do you recommend
3200 DDR or do I need to go to 3500 DDR?
Click to expand...

Mushkin PC3200 Blue. With prices this low there's little point in
screwing around with anything other than the best.

http://www.mushkin.com
2. I need a case. I've been looking at an Antec and don't want to spend
a fortune. I think I need at least a 350 watt PSU as well. Can someone
recommend a good case w/ a decent PSU?
Click to expand...

A quality 350W PSU is fine. Get an Antec, Enermax, or Sparkle unit.
Cases are virtually impossible to recommend without specific info, so
find a few you like and ask about the models.
3. I heard the the front USB ports on this board are difficult to
install. Do you think I'll be in trouble as a first time builder? I
also heard they're not 2.0 compliant, but I think I can go to Asus'
website to get an update for that....
Click to expand...

The headers are 2.0 capable, you don't need any updates from Asus.
WinXP SP1 has the drivers you need. If you're using an older OS, the
drivers should come with the mobo. Whether the case mounted front ports
are a pain or not depends on the case.
 
Steve,

You probably know most of this already...

The biggest mistakes you can make assembling your own PC are:

Not taking adequate Anti Static precautions.
Get an anti static wrist strap, borrow an anti static mat if you can.
If not, work on a metal bench that is earthed.

Don't Wear Silk, Synthetic, or other static generating material.
Don't Work on a synthetic carpet.

- Jeans, Cotton, thongs on a wood, vinyl, or concrete floor is safe.

Don't remove cards etc from anti static wrappers prior to Need.
Don't Handle ram, cards or m/b by anything other than the edges or PCI slot
tabs.
Handle cards to a minimum - plan how you are going to insert the cards -
assemble things outside the case if you can - get a case with a slide out
m/b tray if you can.

Ignore people that claim that cards etc are no longer are static sensitive.

So, if you think you can knock the static problem on the head, you are safe
there.

Have a good read of others recommendations.

[Apparently] installing an AGP 1x or 2x card in an 8x slot -> Boom
Buying crap.

When you buy, if you can - particularly memory, m/b, graphics, get the lot
from one supplier that will guarantee compatibility, and you are confident
will accept returns if you find you have a dud. Many people on newsgroups
seem to have acquired m/b's which they can't return when they are stuffed
from the outset.

Asus makes excellent stuff.

Cheap components usually come with catches - if its too good to be true, it
is.

Get a *good* PSU with more than adequate capacity.
Buy the case separately without PSU if you can't get a good PSU.

Do you want a quiet PC? Buy all parts with this in mind then. You can't
quieten a noisy PC easily / much.

.... apart from all that, so long as the anti static and AGP issues are
addressed, you shouldn't be able to damage anything so won't make mistakes
that can't be corrected.

Go for it..

- Tim
 
Hello everyone,

I've decided to build my first system and I've decided on the Asus
p4p800 mobo (non-deluxe) w/ a P4 C2.4 GHz processor. This board was
recommended by a friend, but I've been reading a ton on it and people
either love it or hate it. From what I've read, most issues turn out
to be memory related. I was hoping some people could help me with a few
questions before I make my purchase:
Click to expand...

Good choice for mobo and cpu
1. I would like to use dual-channel DDR memory. I'll probably get 2
sticks of 256MB. Can someone recommend a brand and model of 256 modules
that will work with this board with no issues? Also, do you recommend
3200 DDR or do I need to go to 3500 DDR?
Click to expand...

I could recommed pc3200 ram as twinmos, crucial, samsung, or kingston
hyperx 3500.

Better than pc3200 only pays if you overclock, I should think.

2. I need a case. I've been looking at an Antec and don't want to spend
a fortune. I think I need at least a 350 watt PSU as well. Can someone
recommend a good case w/ a decent PSU?
Click to expand...
300 should be adequite. I like this chieftech cabinet:
DH-01W
it is modest in price, and nice quality, heavy resonant free and with
a silent PSU. But you have to buy a usb-in-front 3.5" unit for some 15
$ somewhere. Be aware of usb 2 (speed).
http://www.chieftec.com/
called MH-01W here:
http://www.chieftec.com/products/Matrix/matrix.htm
3. I heard the the front USB ports on this board are difficult to
install. Do you think I'll be in trouble as a first time builder? I
also heard they're not 2.0 compliant, but I think I can go to Asus'
website to get an update for that....
Click to expand...
It is not so difficult. It is 9 small wires. The manual has to be
clear. You can check that before you buy.
ftp://ftp.asuscom.de/pub/ASUSCOM/HANDBUCH/Motherboard/Socket_478/INTEL_Chipset/

best regards

John
 
Thank you to jaeger, Tim, and John for the excellent advice. (Thanks Tim
for the static electricity warnings). I'll be making my purchase shortly
and looking forward to my new computer.
 
Thanks Cliff! You helped me make my decision on what RAM to buy. Now I
need to figure out where to buy! I was planning on buying at newegg.
Great service from what I hear. Since Newegg does retail in California
and I am also a resident, I'm forced to pay sales tax. I still may go
with newegg to buy by items, but if someone can recommend elsewhere,
perfect!

I plan on ordering the following:

1. Asus p4p800 mobo (still not sure if I need deluxe. I do have a
firewire PCI card...)
2. Intel Pent 2.4 GHz (stock HSF)
3. Kingston ValueRam 256MB x 2 (Thanks Cliff!)
4. Antec SLK3700 case - Comes with a 350 watt PSU.
5. Still need a video card. I heard good things about the ATI ALL-IN-
WONDER RADEON 7500. I would like to watch/record TV and still have a
decent card to play Half-Life2. :) What do you think?
6. Also have my HDD - Maxtor 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB cache - ATA/133
7. Also need a DVD burner, but not sure about DVD-RW or DVD+RW. Need to
figure that out yet...

Any feedback on where I should buy and on the video card!??

I'm so pumped! I can't wait for my new puter!

Steveo
 
I recently built a similar system with the ASUS P4P800 and the P4c2.4.
Kinston KVR400x64c25/256 (two 256MB). Antec Performance II SX630II case with
300w PS which is okay for my needs (WD 7200 40GB + CD burner only).

I'm not a techie.

The only problem I had was figuring out how to connect the front case USB
port wires to the board and the LED/switch wires. If you have any problems
with these wires I have a diagram so post me here and I'll get it to you.

Be careful inserting the CPU. Line up the pins up correctly and don't force
it in.

Get WinXP. Don't try and use your old Win98.

The board has 4 RAM sockets in two color coded banks. Make sure you insert
one RAM into each bank.

Take your time and plan ahead.

Can't help with the video card but if you are a serious gamer I'd get
something good. I'm just using a ATI Raadeon 7500 64MB but games look and
play great for me.

I have my board overclocked slightly by setting the BIOS simply at 5%. I
might try the FSB 250m, memory 320 as was suggested here. :-)

My setup is rock stable. I had no problems at all, except for figuring out
the case wires. Fast. Love the P4P800.
 
I recently built a similar system with the ASUS P4P800 and the P4c2.4.
Kinston KVR400x64c25/256 (two 256MB). Antec Performance II SX630II
case with 300w PS which is okay for my needs (WD 7200 40GB + CD burner
only).
Click to expand...

Sounds like we'll have the same system. I'm still thinking of that case as
well.
The only problem I had was figuring out how to connect the front case
USB port wires to the board and the LED/switch wires. If you have any
problems with these wires I have a diagram so post me here and I'll
get it to you.
Click to expand...

Can you email me the diagram? Sounds like I'll need it.
Get WinXP. Don't try and use your old Win98.
Click to expand...

Got XP Pro.
Take your time and plan ahead.
Click to expand...

I will. Thanks for the advice and for everyone's comments!
 
Can you email me the diagram? Sounds like I'll need it.

Okeedokee Steve. This is for my particular Antec case but others should be
similar. As someone here suggested if the LEDs or swiches don't work than
simply switch them around on the board. However, I have large hands and it
was sort of hard for me to do it easily. Give me a couple of days and I'll
get the diagrams to you. :-)

Oh, one other building suggestion. Before attaching the motherboard to the
case do these things:
Get a pencil, or better yet a fine tip marker, and line up your motherboard
correctly first. Take the marker and put it through each of the screw holes
so you know where to screw in the standoffs on the case. Makes it much
easier to figure out how they line up. Then screw in the standoffs into the
holes where the marks are. The standoffs are little posts that keep the
board from contacting the case. You get a lot of assorted screws and the
standoffs with the board.

You will have a new rear port plate that comes with the motherboard so you
remove the generic one that came with your case. The ports and plugs on the
board that go out the back of the case are kind of weird but you'll get it
right eventually. You want to make sure this is correct before screwing down
the board.
 
Yes, and push out any pieces of metal that will stop the m/b sliding into
the port plate.
Sometimes they come with GBit lan / USB 2 etc. covered and the m/b has them
so that stops the m/b sliding into pos.
Its so obvious, but they can be difficult to slide into position anyway...

- Tim
 
Good point.

The P4P800 comes with it's own backplate. I just popped out the existing
plate in the case (push it in), attached the new P4P800 plate (on the
inside) and push on it until it clicks into position. Check all four sides
are flush.

Actually, the plate threw me a little bit a first. It has pairs of
'tongues' around each port opening. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to bend
these back or not...they almost looked like they should be. DONT - just
leave them as they are.

With the mobo sitting on the risers, eye up under the board to see that the
board is sitting evenly on the risers...look for high spots or low spots.
Being a newbie, I didn't realise there were different size risers and ended
up using ones of different heights (I was reusing an old case, and I had
some spare risers from the local shop). There's only a millimetre or so
different in height, but you wont to avoid that so you don't put undue
pressure on the mobo when you screw it in place.

Don't over tighten the screws. They are just holding the board in place.
Heard that overtightening will fracture the fibreglass board.

Cheers, Cliff
 
The little tongues of metal are supposed to contact the various sockets EG
usb, lan, etc. This is to stop RFI leakage.
- Tim
 
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