P4C800E-deluxe Upgrade Problems

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£åz¥ £ester

I have recently purchased this motherboard and am having some major problems
on the install.
Basically, when I cut on the power and hit the button to boot nothing
happens. No fans cut on, no hard drives spin up, no bios....nothing but a
green light on thr MB. Here's my setup:
P4 3.2E w/1mb cacheGhz
Kingston KVR400X64C25/256 (x4)...that's !gb DDR400 (this number for Kingston
memory is listed in the manual as compatible.
Enermax EG465P-VE 431W ATX 12V PSU
and some old WD hard drives which worked fine, and a CDRW
Graphics card is ATI Radeon 9200 128MB DDR AGP

I have just two theories as to the problem.

One thing I know is that the CPU I have installed is listed by asus as
compatible, but only after bios rev. 1016. Is it possible it won't even
boot to bios to do the upgrade because of the CPU? When I try to power up
NOTHING happens.

The other thing that worries me is the power supply. The only thing I can
notice from the PSU is that the ATX12V plug doesn't match what's in the
diagram in the manual. On the ATX plug on the PSU I have two yellow and two
black wires. Yellow are +12V and the black are the grounds. BUT, in the
manual the ATX plug diagram looks like this:
grnd +12V
grnd +12V

On the plug from the PSU, if I plug it in where it snaps into place properly
(the only way it will fit), it is set up as follows:
+12V +12V
grnd grnd

Also on the Enermax box, it says ATX ver. 1.2 and on the side it's labeled
ATX-E. (Manual stipulates use ATX version 1

Maybe I got the wrong PSU.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

Oh, BTW, I have a lian-li PC-60 aluminum case and I've even tried switching
the power sw around thinking I had it on backwards. That's not the problem
evidently...
 
"£åz¥ said:
I have recently purchased this motherboard and am having some major problems
on the install.
Basically, when I cut on the power and hit the button to boot nothing
happens. No fans cut on, no hard drives spin up, no bios....nothing but a
green light on thr MB. Here's my setup:
P4 3.2E w/1mb cacheGhz
Kingston KVR400X64C25/256 (x4)...that's !gb DDR400 (this number for Kingston
memory is listed in the manual as compatible.
Enermax EG465P-VE 431W ATX 12V PSU
and some old WD hard drives which worked fine, and a CDRW
Graphics card is ATI Radeon 9200 128MB DDR AGP

I have just two theories as to the problem.

One thing I know is that the CPU I have installed is listed by asus as
compatible, but only after bios rev. 1016. Is it possible it won't even
boot to bios to do the upgrade because of the CPU? When I try to power up
NOTHING happens.

The other thing that worries me is the power supply. The only thing I can
notice from the PSU is that the ATX12V plug doesn't match what's in the
diagram in the manual. On the ATX plug on the PSU I have two yellow and two
black wires. Yellow are +12V and the black are the grounds. BUT, in the
manual the ATX plug diagram looks like this:
grnd +12V
grnd +12V

On the plug from the PSU, if I plug it in where it snaps into place properly
(the only way it will fit), it is set up as follows:
+12V +12V
grnd grnd

Also on the Enermax box, it says ATX ver. 1.2 and on the side it's labeled
ATX-E. (Manual stipulates use ATX version 1

Maybe I got the wrong PSU.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

Oh, BTW, I have a lian-li PC-60 aluminum case and I've even tried switching
the power sw around thinking I had it on backwards. That's not the problem
evidently...
Click to expand...

Most likely culprit so far is your video card. It sounds like
the "AGP_warn" circuit on the motherboard isn't happy with your
video card. The "AGP_warn" circuit checks pin A2 (TYPEDET#) on
the video card, to see if it is grounded, meaning the video card
wants to use 1.5V for AGP I/O. If the pin is not shorted to ground,
then "AGP_warn" prevents power from being applied to the motherboard.
You will be able to get the green LED lit, because AGP_Warn
doesn't gate that, but AGP_Warn prevents the driving of PS_ON# to the
PSU, via the 20 pin connector.

If you hadn't connected the 2x2 ATX 12V connector, the fans would
spin, but the board wouldn't POST.

What I did with my P4C800E Deluxe, is I built it up on cardboard
first. I installed amplified speakers on the lime colored Lineout
connector on the I/O panel. Then, added one component at a time
and listed to the Asus Voice POST (a.k.a "bitchin betty") for
an appropriate response. With no components installed (no CPU, ram
etc), the Voice POST will tell you the CPU is missing. Power
off the computer via the switch on the back of the PSU and add
RAM. Power up and the Voice POST will tell you that RAM is missing.
Power down again, add the RAM. And so on.

You should be able to do the CPU and ram and get the Voice POST
to respond. When you add the video card, you might be suddenly
greeted by a refusal to power up (or even "bitch"). That means the
video card is preventing the board from coming up. When that
happens, all I can suggest, is if you really like the ATI9200,
find another vendor's version of the card, as it might have
implemented the TYPEDET# grounding thing properly.

I don't think the problem is your processor. Using the Voice
POST and the "cardboard test" should give you some idea as to
which components make the motherboard happy or not.

And, don't worry about the cabling. The vast majority of PC
cabling is keyed in one way or another. The Molex Minifit
connectors used for the ATX20 and ATX 2x2 12V connections only
fit one way. You'd have read plenty of complaints in this
news group, if any vendor managed to screw up the wiring, and
I've never seen complaints like that.

HTH,
Paul
 
Thanks Paul. I just tried to boot without the video card and still
zip...nothing. I'll return this card, but do you know any video cards that
work with thid board for around 60-80 bucks?

Another thing. There was a plastic spacer inserted into the AGP slot when I
got the motherboard. It had a sticker that said to remove it if installing
an AGP Pro card, which mine wasn't, so I left the plastic spacer in the
slot. I tried to remove the spacer and still nothing. Now I have to figure
out which orientation to reinsert it since I wasn't paying attention.
Argh......

I'm going to sleep now. Thanks for the help again.
 
£åz¥ £ester said:
Thanks Paul. I just tried to boot without the video card and still
zip...nothing. I'll return this card, but do you know any video cards that
work with thid board for around 60-80 bucks?
Click to expand...

If you pulled the card and still nothing, it's not the card.
Another thing. There was a plastic spacer inserted into the AGP slot when I
got the motherboard. It had a sticker that said to remove it if installing
an AGP Pro card, which mine wasn't, so I left the plastic spacer in the
slot. I tried to remove the spacer and still nothing. Now I have to figure
out which orientation to reinsert it since I wasn't paying attention.
Argh......
Click to expand...

Not important... Just leaves part of the slot open. My board just had a
sticker over the Pro part of the slot. It's just a marketing gimmick to make
sure you notice you've got the AGP Pro slot.

.....

Green light comes on, so you know that some power is getting to the board.
Make sure you also have the small square 4 pin plug from the power supply
going to the mainboard. You mentioned it, so I'm sure you plugged it in. As
for which way around it goes, your board probably just has a slight revision
change. If you REALLY want to be sure, pull the mainboard out and see if you
can tell which pair of pins are really joined together by looking at the
circuit traces on the board.

Since nothing happens when you push the power button, I'd suspect you have
it on the wrong pins on the mainboard, or the switch may be bad (try putting
your RESET button on the POWER ON pins) The fans should spin up even if you
nothing hooked up to the mainboard except the PSU and power button.
 
Could it be that the board is shorting out. I heard this could be a problem
with this board, where the board shorts out on the mounting brackets. Iused
the ones that came with my Lian-Li case. I'll try switching the reset
switch also.
 
Lester,
If the green led is lit; It's a good news you've got a working PSU.

First things I'd check:
This could be as simple as a 'cut' wire from the fron Power switch,
or this wire is not properly hooked to the "System Panel Connector"
20 pins.. Make damn sure it's at the exact position for ATX power switch.
And not the reset button.

I would not worry about ATX connector, unless indeed you've got something
else than advertised EG465P-VE.
Does it look like this ?
http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/power/enermax/eg465p-ve/
Check the stickers on the side; It should be clear if your PSU is what you bought.
http://www.maxpoint.com/products/pow_supp/spec_pg/46524p/
The manual acrobat form is on their site.
(The connector's notch lock is on Pin3's side (YELLOW wire side)
1 BLACK
2 BLACK
3 Yellow
4 Yellow
(This is identical to my ANTEC pinout listing; Sot this is right)

This ATX1 12v (4wires) connector is really "Weird".. But Paul answered right.
It's virtually impossible that this thing is wrong. You must have made a mistake
reading pin order... But I went to see the manual "pdf" file.

Video card details:
The AGP Pro 'plastic lock' does not have to be removed. Just slide down when
inserting the AGP card, and once the AGP Pro knotch is fully inserted; The
plastic lock can be slided towards; thus securing the card from accidental pulls.
Mine came with a sticker to make me notice this part can move.
If you 'removed' it. Then don't worry about the exact orientation. You can figure it
as long as you understand what purpose it serves... Put it back, don't force it.

Hope it helps,
B
 
I believe that some of the early P4C800-ED's had a problem on the underside
of the pcb with solder pooling togeher beneath the plastic stiffner that has
the CPU cooling fan mount on the other side. I hope that you (and I) did
not get one of those boards. Surely this issue was fixed long ago.

MikeSp
----------------------------
 
OK, I've put back the spacer for the AGP slot. I pulled the PSU and it says
it's the EG465P-ve. I also removed the CPU, CPU and RAM, and tried 2 DIMMS
at a time in the proper orientation. STILL not so much as a post, bios, or
anything. Removed the graphics card alltogether, still nothing. I've tried
about every combination possible on the switch connections to the case.
Also tried to replace the power wit the reset...still nothing. Checked the
other end of the connectors on the front of the case. Power and reset
appear to be connected.

Was very careful about static during the build. Didn't have a wrist strap,
but constantly grounded myself and kept all the components on the plastic.
It helps that it was rainy outside.

I'm running out of options here. Current theories, bad psu, bad graphics
card, short in motherboard mounting, bad motherboard, bad case.

Would erasing the CMOS with the jumper help?

If all else fails, I'll unmount the motherboard and reconnect everything out
of the case, and also inspect that soulder pool behind the CPU fan....
 
"£åz¥ said:
OK, I've put back the spacer for the AGP slot. I pulled the PSU and it says
it's the EG465P-ve. I also removed the CPU, CPU and RAM, and tried 2 DIMMS
at a time in the proper orientation. STILL not so much as a post, bios, or
anything. Removed the graphics card alltogether, still nothing. I've tried
about every combination possible on the switch connections to the case.
Also tried to replace the power wit the reset...still nothing. Checked the
other end of the connectors on the front of the case. Power and reset
appear to be connected.

Was very careful about static during the build. Didn't have a wrist strap,
but constantly grounded myself and kept all the components on the plastic.
It helps that it was rainy outside.

I'm running out of options here. Current theories, bad psu, bad graphics
card, short in motherboard mounting, bad motherboard, bad case.

Would erasing the CMOS with the jumper help?

If all else fails, I'll unmount the motherboard and reconnect everything out
of the case, and also inspect that soulder pool behind the CPU fan....
Click to expand...

Are you using the Voice POST ? Leave the two jumpers on the FP_AUDIO
header, and connect amplified speakers to the lime colored Lineout
connector on the back of the computer (even if you have an Audigy
plugged into the computer, the Voice POST will always be available
on the Lineout connector of the motherboard). Listen for any messages.
Start with no components on the board at all. Either connect the
power switch to the two power pins on the PANEL header, or use
an (ESD drained) screwdriver tip, to momentarily touch the two power
pins. If the green LED on the motherboard is lit, and the board
is able to generate a reset pulse at power up, the Voice POST should
be able to talk to you. (Obviously, a jammed reset switch will stop
this from happening.)

The Voice POST is an autonomous system, and doesn't need the
processor in order to work. Look at the list of error messages
in the manual. Compare the message you hear, to the list in the
manual. Without a CPU, it should tell you the CPU is missing.
Continue adding components, until either the messages no longer
make sense, or the board stops altogether. (And be patient. Some
of the messages in the table, take up to 1 minute before they are
spoken. The simple ones, like the CPU is missing, should come
out of the motherboard much faster.)

The board has Voice POST, so might as well use it.

Remember to always shut off the power supply before replacing components.
It is not safe to install or remove components when the green LED
is lit. A conservative practice, is to unplug the power supply, before
changing components, to guarantee there is no power in the chassis.
If you fail to do this, the +5VSB can make contact in the wrong order,
damaging I/O or otherwise frying stuff.

If you are unable to get Voice POST, it could be the power supply
simply isn't starting, or the motherboard isn't generating reset,
and/or is failing to send PS_ON# to the power supply. So, either the
power supply or the motherboard could be at fault.

HTH,
Paul
 
I think I might have linked a PSU issue to yours... By doing a research for someone else.
There was a specific incompatibility between some ANTEC PSU's and a P4B800E delux.
The issue is supposed to be related to ASUS not recognizing the voltage +5 pin4,
on the ATX connector. This is only for rev 1.02 boards, and specific to the boards with
an ending serial like "-A02" along the side close to IDE/floppy connectors.

Could your P4C800E-deluxe have such a similar issue; Making the board not post
from an excellent PSU ?

These kind of things make me remember the day I shopped for a PSU.
And reading in one forum a comment about a guy who had problem with a nice ANTEC PSU.
...Here I found in my records:
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/18608/?o=20
But the same motherboard would post with a Thremaltake 480Watts....

If all fails.. You could call ASUS tech to ask specifics.
Or do some more research to see if P4C800 also had some PSU issues similar
to those of the early P4P800.

Regards,
B
 
ASUS might want to include the fact that the new bios to support the new
P4-E CPU's can not be flashed properly with Eazy-Flash either. I noted on
the website you had to use the updated version of afudos to flash it, or
you'd have to have a new version of live update...but it mentions nothing
about Easy-Flash, which is the easiest to use. Without the updated BIOS it
recognized my CPU as 2.8GHZ and it was running about 15 degrees (f) too hot.
I eventually flashed with the updated afudos and it worked perfect.

Thanks for all the help folks with my problem. It was a "human" error I
chalk up to needing glasses, coupled with a lack of sleep. Seems you have
to skip a pin between the reset and ATX power case connectors.
 
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