OT: How to create music CDs from music LPs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Yves Leclerc
  • Start date Start date
Y

Yves Leclerc

I am sorry if this is not the group that this should be posted to.

I have an Audigy 1 and XP Pro. I have a CD buner with Roxio EZ CD/DVD
Creator 6.x Plantium. Where/how do I transfer a music LP to CD?? What is
required??

Y.
 
You need a turntable with an amp that can out put the audio
to the sound card. You also need software to record the
input. It will take a long time as there is no fast way to
play your LPs.

Do a Google, there is more to learn.
message | I am sorry if this is not the group that this should be
posted to.
|
| I have an Audigy 1 and XP Pro. I have a CD buner with
Roxio EZ CD/DVD
| Creator 6.x Plantium. Where/how do I transfer a music LP
to CD?? What is
| required??
|
| Y.
|
|
 
Yves said:
I am sorry if this is not the group that this should be posted to.

I have an Audigy 1 and XP Pro. I have a CD buner with Roxio EZ CD/DVD
Creator 6.x Plantium. Where/how do I transfer a music LP to CD??
What is required??

Y.

I use a Sony PS-LX250H turntable (100-130 bucks at Best Buy), the advantage
of this turntable is that it supports both "line level" output and "phono",
you'll need line level output for a direct connection to a sound card as
they don't have the pre-amp circuitry needed to handle phono level,
otherwise you'll need a amp/reciever with phono support which can then be
connected to the reciever.

For software I use Magix Audio Cleaning Lab which captures the sound from
the turntable and digitizes it to produce a wav file. It also allows me to
clean the sound up by eliminating hiss an scratches etc. The final stage
(also using ACL) is to cut the captured sound into tracks and turn it into
MP3 files (assuming you want them stored as MP3.)

If you want to discuss this in more detail, feel free to email me by
replying to this message, I've used the same basic technique to "rip" about
15 LPs and the results are pretty good.
 
Hi. You need Pinnacle Clean Plus ( Works Great) $89.99 at Futureshop, turntable and or cassette deck, pc with minimum requirements: 500 MHz or faster Pentium II or AMD Athlon, 64 MB RAM ( 128 for Windows XP or 2000), 16-bit sound card, 16-bit graphics card, 1 usb port,CD-ROM Drive, CD-Recorder for burning CD. Pinnacle is very easy to use & there's all kinds of different settings & effects that you can add. I've been using it for about a year now with fantastic results. Best Regards: Don....
 
For what it's worth, you should also buy "Music" CD-Rs as opposed to generic
blank CDs. You can burn music to the generic CDs, but your stereo may or may
not be able to play them. I don't know what the difference really is, but I
burned a number of music CDs on generic blanks, and they played fine in my
computer and my Sony Walkman, but not on my wife's car stereo. When I
re-burned the same albums on "music" CD-Rs, they played correctly in the car
stereo and everywhere else.

Alan
 
To write an anologous source to CD is pretty simple actually, just hook it
up to the line-in of your sound card and record it to a wave file, then burn
that wave file as an Audio CD with your favourite CD burning program.
Optionally between recording and burning the wave file you can process it
with sound editing applications to enhance the sound quality of the wave
file, reducing clicks and pops and static and such. Aditionally you could
cut the entire wave file up into tracks so that you can use it like a
regular CD and skip to particular tracks, otherwise the entire CD will just
contain one big track and you'd have to seek the entire CD to go to a
specific song not unlike you would do on a tape... I believe that EZ CD/DVD
creator has an option to directly record from the line-in to CD, though I
don't know what it's called directly off the top of my head.

Though before you begin make sure that the line-in is the active recording
device and that it's volume is opened up, go to Control Panel->Sounds and
Audio Devices then under Device volume click Advanced, a new dialog comes up
and in the menu click options->properties, then in the Adjust Volume for
panel select Recording and in the list underneath make sure that the line-in
is selected and click ok. Now you should see your recording devices, make
sure the line-in is selected and that the volume is turned up, you might
need to adjust this volume according to the level of the incoming audio
source. You can now close the Play Control and Sounds and Audio Devices
dialogs.

When you now use a sound recording application you should be able to record
from the line-in. There is still one catch though and that is that an LP
player does not have a regular line-out, it still needs a player specific
amplification on the signal. Usually this is built into your stereo set, so
it would be best to just hook up the LP player to the stereo set and connect
the line-out, tape-out or monitor-out of the stereo set to the line-in of
your PC. In case when using the monitor-out make sure that the monitor
feature of your stereo set is switched on, in some cases you also need to
activate the tape-out with some switches on your stereo set. Alternatively
you could buy a specific LP player amplification unit which is a small box
that amplifies the phono signal to a standardised line signal.

Regards, Wichetael.
 
So I guess what you are saying is that I'm either lying or smoking dope. I'm
telling you that there is a difference, especially when you try to play the
music CD on a home stereo system or car stereo system. It may or may not
make a difference, depending on the system. I don't know why, only that
there is a difference.

Alan
 
There isn't any difference in the specification other than the price mark-up
to make it legal, though each and every cdr in itself is different due to
different manufacturing techniques, different quality control setups,
somewhat open specifications and whatever more, some brands of cdrs will not
work ok in one player and will work ok in another, there can even bee
differences between different batches or types of the same brand. So no he
ain't saying your were lying about the Music CDRs working on some players
while others don't, he's just saying you're drawing the wrong conclusion,
they aren't working because they are Music CDRs, they're working because
they simply are a different type than your data recordables.

The same holds true for actually burning CDs, some burners simply won't burn
certain media while others work wit them perfectly fine, but reversely the
same burner that burns those media perfectly fine might have trouble burning
media which the other burner works perfectly fine with...

So in short media are different from brand to brand, type to type, speed to
speed and batch to batch, some will work on certain players and burners and
some won't. Live with it, deal with it and try to find out which media work
best with your burners and players.

Regards, Wichetael.
 
Thanks for the explanation. I didn't know what the difference was, only that
there WAS a difference. Also, I'm noticing that a lot of CD players now
advertise that they are compatible with CD-RW, so I suspect the problem I
had with my wife's car CD player will probably disappear with newer
equipment. (she has a 2002 Camry, so the player was probably built in 2001)

Alan
 
CD-R use a different type of recording surface (a chemical
dye is burned by the laser and the surface is very
reflective) while a CD-RW has the surface melted into little
"pits" by the laser. A RW CD can be reformatted or file
erased by melting the surface smooth again. But the surface
is not as reflective as the CD-R which has the chemical dyes
change. The CD-R is a one time event, it is also why you
don't want sunlight to get on your CD-Rs, because the strong
light can change the surface.

Old car and home CD players had a different laser setup for
reading the disk and different software.



| Thanks for the explanation. I didn't know what the
difference was, only that
| there WAS a difference. Also, I'm noticing that a lot of
CD players now
| advertise that they are compatible with CD-RW, so I
suspect the problem I
| had with my wife's car CD player will probably disappear
with newer
| equipment. (she has a 2002 Camry, so the player was
probably built in 2001)
|
| Alan
|
| | > There isn't any difference in the specification other
than the price
| mark-up
| > to make it legal, though each and every cdr in itself is
different due to
| > different manufacturing techniques, different quality
control setups,
| > somewhat open specifications and whatever more, some
brands of cdrs will
| not
| > work ok in one player and will work ok in another, there
can even bee
| > differences between different batches or types of the
same brand. So no he
| > ain't saying your were lying about the Music CDRs
working on some players
| > while others don't, he's just saying you're drawing the
wrong conclusion,
| > they aren't working because they are Music CDRs, they're
working because
| > they simply are a different type than your data
recordables.
| >
| > The same holds true for actually burning CDs, some
burners simply won't
| burn
| > certain media while others work wit them perfectly fine,
but reversely the
| > same burner that burns those media perfectly fine might
have trouble
| burning
| > media which the other burner works perfectly fine
with...
| >
| > So in short media are different from brand to brand,
type to type, speed
| to
| > speed and batch to batch, some will work on certain
players and burners
| and
| > some won't. Live with it, deal with it and try to find
out which media
| work
| > best with your burners and players.
| >
| > Regards, Wichetael.
|
|
 
For what it's worth, you should also buy "Music" CD-Rs as opposed to generic
blank CDs. You can burn music to the generic CDs, but your stereo may or may
not be able to play them. I don't know what the difference really is, but I
burned a number of music CDs on generic blanks, and they played fine in my
computer and my Sony Walkman, but not on my wife's car stereo. When I
re-burned the same albums on "music" CD-Rs, they played correctly in the car
stereo and everywhere else.

Alan
The ONLY difference is that Music CDR media contains a code on them
that allows them to be used in a standalone CD Recorder, usually
hooked up to your stereo. A regular Data CDR won't work in one of
them. Oh, and of course they cost more, since the RIAA gets a
kickback on every sale of music CDRs.
 
Some players don't do well trying to play the blue-tinted CD-Rs. The
silver ones are more like the stamped CDs. But it doesn't matter what
the label says they are to be used for.
 
As Wichetael said, different brands work better in different drives. I find
that using "music CDs" works well in my wife's car stereo. I suppose if I
was feeling experimental, I could try a few other CD-Rs, the silver ones for
instance. Now that you mention it, the ones that I was using prior to
switching to the music CDs were indeed gold on top and blue on the recording
side. So there you go. Thanks for the feedback.

Alan
 
It doesnt matter what CDR you use. Ive used
data and music. BOTH work, no probs at all.

Just as long as you use something like Nero or CD Creator, which converts
MP3 to the right format,
before it burns, most CD players can play them, no matter where they are.

Most ppl I think assume, if you copy
MP3's as is to CD, they'll work with any CD.

They wont, unless the CD player you're trying to
play it in, supports MP3 format.

MP3's are as good as the original song
 
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