"Xu" said:
The computer was working fine last night when I went to bed. When I got up
this morning I used a can of air on the inside to clean it out. I waited
about 10 minutes then powered up. Right past the bios screen I get this:
SDRAM Dimm at 1
and then computer won't proceed any further. I bought new memory to check
it, but if I put anything in Dimm 1, I get the same problem. If I put the
module in Dimm 2, no problem and the computer boots. The problem is with
only 1 slot, I got 256mb worth of memory. I cannot live with that! With XP
and my virus program the thing runs like my old 486pc.
I have spent alot of time on this old MOBO and several people here have
helped me. Is there anything I can do or try that I might not have thought
of before I chunk this MOBO and salvage the internal parts?
In my opinion, both canned compressed air and vacuum cleaners
inside a computer are a bad idea. High velocity air can create
static electricity, and that could be what cooked the DIMM slot.
While carrying out such a cleaning procedure, it might be
better to leave all socketed components in place, so that the
dirt doesn't lodge easily at the bottom of the connectors.
Try inserting and removing the good DIMM in the bad slot. Repeat
about five times or so. If there is dirt in the socket, then
the friction may be enough to clean it. I do not recommend the
use of erasers, as a friction cleaning device, nor the use of
solvents which can gum up the works even worst than they are
now. (Also, when adding or removing components from the computer,
at least make sure the switch on the back of the computer is off.
My personal preference is to unplug the computer, as there is no
uncertainty about stray power in a DIMM slot when you do that.
You don't want +5VSB still running in the computer, when adding
or pulling components. An antistatic wrist strap that brings your
body to the same potential as the chassis is a good idea, to
reduce static discharge.)
This could be a control signal failure of some sort. The fact
that the other DIMM works, means the bussed data and address
signals are still working.
Clearing the CMOS is another option, to be tried if the insertion
and removal cycles didn't improve matters. You should clear the
CMOS with the power cord unplugged, so there is no chance that
+5VSB is still present in the computer. (Clearing CMOS on some
motherboards, while +5VSB is present, causes a specific diode on
the board to get burned, and rather than track which motherboards
have that "feature", it is best to just unplug the computer.)
If your computer has no obvious CLRTC jumper or the like, you
can also pop out the CMOS battery. With absolutely no power
source present in the computer, the CMOS RAM block inside the
Southbridge will eventually drain, and data contents will be
reset. Leave it for an hour and have a meal while it drains
The RTC clock should reset to 1970 or so, if the procedure
worked.
If there is still no improvement, then it is time to shop for
a replacement. I tried a search for Nforce2 boards on Newegg,
but the reviews on the remaining brands are a bit discouraging.
I see an Asus A7N8X-X single channel Nforce2 motherboard here,
and maybe there will be less risk of a DOA with one of those.
There are also some other brands of motherboards that have
Nforce2 chipsets on them that have a good reputation.
A7N8X-X - Single channel Nforce2 motherboard.
(A7N8X-E would be dual channel...)
http://www.a2zcomp.com/buy.asp?REF=1&SKU=295159
http://support.asus.com.tw/cpusuppo...x?type=1&name=A7N8X-X&SLanguage=en-us&cache=1
To learn more about Nforce2 boards, go here and search for
Nforce2 motherboard (all terms).
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/search.php
Note that the Asus S462 motherboards power the processor from
+5V. Your power supply should have a 5V@20A rating on the label
as a minimum, and depending on whether you use a high end video
card, 5V@25A gives a bit more margin. Many other makers of
S462 boards have a ATX12V 2x2 power connector on their motherboards,
which means that 5 or 6 amps of +12V would be the source of the
processor power instead. If you do get the A7N8X-X or an A7N8X-E
(if you can find one), then check the power supply for at least
20 amps on +5V.
For RAM, get 1x512 or 2x512, like this stuff for $58 a stick.
I've used these and had zero problems when used with an Intel
processor board and with my AMD Nforce2 board. These sticks
are fast enough, that they will work well with any processor
upgrade you can find in the future. They would also be good
candidates for a S754 or S939 motherboard, if you decide
to try one of those instead. Since the price on these is
reasonable, there is no sense buying a lower spec memory,
only to have to replace it later.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/CustratingReview.asp?item=N82E16820146546
Speaking in very general terms, I don't recommend microATX
boards, where you would be using the built-in graphics.
MicroATX are OK if you use a separate video card, but they
tend to have interactions between using PC3200 RAM and the
build-in graphics at the same time (electrical noise).
MicroATX boards also tend to have crappy BIOS, that lack
control settings - download the user manual for any board
you plan to buy and read the BIOS section, to see if this
is going to be a problem.
As with any motherboard, check the reviews on Newegg, if the
motherboard is sold there, and check Google for feedback
as well.
HTH,
Paul
