No power

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike Easter
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M

Mike Easter

I left the machine on, when I came back, it was off and it won't powerup.

EliteGroup 741GX-M2
Integrated SiS LAN, sound, graphics
AMD Geode MX-1750 cpu
1.2G ram

I thought I could take a shortcut and just replace the PS, but the new
PS doesn't give a powerlight or run its fan either. I used the mobo
jumper to clear the CMOS, but that didn't help.

I don't see any funny capacitors on the mobo.

I have a multimeter but I need a little guidance for checking things
out, including the switch.
 
Mike said:
I left the machine on, when I came back, it was off and it won't powerup.

EliteGroup 741GX-M2
Integrated SiS LAN, sound, graphics
AMD Geode MX-1750 cpu
1.2G ram

I thought I could take a shortcut and just replace the PS, but the new
PS doesn't give a powerlight or run its fan either. I used the mobo
jumper to clear the CMOS, but that didn't help.

I don't see any funny capacitors on the mobo.

I have a multimeter but I need a little guidance for checking things
out, including the switch.

There are a couple tests you can do.

First, when you plug in the new supply by itself, and switch on at the
back, the fan should not run. That's because, when the supply
is just sitting on your bench, there is nothing to pull down PS_ON#.

(To get it to run the fan, while on the bench, you have to short PS_ON#
to COM with an unfolded paper clip.)

If you ignore PS_ON# for the moment, you can take the multimeter and
check +5VSB has five volts on it. When the supply is switched on at the back,
the +5VSB should work, while the "main rails" wait for PS_ON# before they
will operate. That's the "soft power" feature. The supply is split in
two pieces - the "standby" section, which runs while the computer
sleeps, and the "main" section, which is soft switched at the
motherboard's request via PS_ON#. (The "#" in the signal name,
means the signal is active low, or active when the signal is
closest to ground.)

Now, when the power supply is connected to the motherboard, you can
repeat that test. If +5VSB is flat when the supply is plugged into
the motherboard, and yet, operates happily by itself, then something
on the motherboard must be overloading it. +5VSB is pretty weak,
and can supply 2 or 3 amps, before it would switch off on overcurrent.
It's probably thermally protected as well.

If there is no +5VSB to run the motherboard logic, then the motherboard
has nothing to operate the PS_ON# logic signal with. And thus, cannot
turn on the "main" section, and make all the fans run.

You can get a pinout for the supply, from an ATX spec. One of these
covers a 20 pin pinout, and the other a 24 pin pinout supply. (I've
been copying and pasting these links for a few years, and I hope they're
still valid.)

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf (page 30)

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf (page 37)

Paul
 
Mike Easter said:
I left the machine on, when I came back, it was off and it won't
powerup.

That rules out your case switches.
EliteGroup 741GX-M2
Integrated SiS LAN, sound, graphics
AMD Geode MX-1750 cpu
1.2G ram

I thought I could take a shortcut and just replace the PS, but
the new PS doesn't give a powerlight or run its fan either.

That mostly rules out the power supply.
I used the mobo jumper to clear the CMOS, but that didn't help.

I don't see any funny capacitors on the mobo.

I have a multimeter but I need a little guidance for checking
things out, including the switch.

Hunker down and remove everything but the few absolute necessary
components. And try again. Or you can just remove everything but
the motherboard, to see if the power supply stays on?
 
Paul said:
There are a couple tests you can do.

First, when you plug in the new supply by itself, and switch on at the
back, the fan should not run. That's because, when the supply
is just sitting on your bench, there is nothing to pull down PS_ON#.

(To get it to run the fan, while on the bench, you have to short PS_ON#
to COM with an unfolded paper clip.)

If you ignore PS_ON# for the moment, you can take the multimeter and
check +5VSB has five volts on it. When the supply is switched on at the
back,
the +5VSB should work, while the "main rails" wait for PS_ON# before they
will operate. That's the "soft power" feature. The supply is split in
two pieces - the "standby" section, which runs while the computer
sleeps, and the "main" section, which is soft switched at the
motherboard's request via PS_ON#. (The "#" in the signal name,
means the signal is active low, or active when the signal is
closest to ground.)

Now, when the power supply is connected to the motherboard, you can
repeat that test. If +5VSB is flat when the supply is plugged into
the motherboard, and yet, operates happily by itself, then something
on the motherboard must be overloading it. +5VSB is pretty weak,
and can supply 2 or 3 amps, before it would switch off on overcurrent.
It's probably thermally protected as well.

If there is no +5VSB to run the motherboard logic, then the motherboard
has nothing to operate the PS_ON# logic signal with. And thus, cannot
turn on the "main" section, and make all the fans run.

You can get a pinout for the supply, from an ATX spec. One of these
covers a 20 pin pinout, and the other a 24 pin pinout supply. (I've
been copying and pasting these links for a few years, and I hope they're
still valid.)

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf (page 30)

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf (page
37)

Paul

Thanks for your help, Paul.

On the bench

I hate it when nothing gives me a positive result. My old RadioShack
multimeter was dead even with a new battery and needed to be replaced.
Fortunately the 2nd, slightly more distant, WalMart in the area had a
good deal on that.

I have now backed up/ regressed/ to the point that both the new and the
old PS are on the bench, having now removed the new replacement PS as
well. The business about 20 vs 24 pin PS layout is a little confusing
because the old PS is/was a replacement and it is 24 pin whereas the
mobo is 20 pin and the newest PS is 20+4. I had used a 24 to 20 pin
adapter for/ to use/ the old PS.

So/But either way, 20 or 24 pin, the +5VSB Purple is on pin 9, whereas
the PS_ON# Green is on pin 14 on the 20 and pin 16 on the 24 and the
adjacent COM Black is on pin 15 on the 20 and pin 17 on the 24. So,
I'll talk colors.

Everything tested related to PS is dead. Both PS/s have a switch and
voltage set to 115 and the switch/es were on during the measurements and
evaluation. The new PS had never been used, but was purchased as a
spare while it was on sale with rebate. However, I didn't test it at
the time of purchase, I just removed the packaging UPC and redeemed the
rebate. There's a lesson #1. If you/I buy a PS on sale for a spare, at
least bench test it for +5VSB and PS_ON# when the purchase is fresh and
it would have been simple to just return a bad PS to that storefront
merchant Fry's for exchange, way back then.

So the +5vsb purple is dead on both PS old and new, and shorting the
green ps_on# to its adjacent black com also gives me no PS fan on either
one.

There's a need to balance the economics of buying and using a new PS for
troubleshooting this old machine whose value when operating is barely
more than the cost of a PS if the PS were purchased at full retail.

So, since I don't currently have another low-priced (or any kind of
spare) PS to use for troubleshooting, I might develop a different tack
until I can get another spare PS on sale some time in the future. The
old mobo/cpu/ram without its PS does have the value of what salvaging
would be useful to me.

I could use its 1G ram stick in another machine I have of similar
vintage. The currently dead machine was carrying 2 IDE hdd/s which I
could farm out to 2 machines which each has an empty bay for that. It
has an old style parallel printer port which had a parallel printer
connected which I like because it uses cheaper ink jet carts and I still
have one machine left with a parallel port to handle that old printer.

I haven't seen a good (as in low priced) PS sale at Fry's recently, so
one may be coming up. I'll hold off on the salvaging for a short while.

I can't think of any other kind of troubleshooting I can do until I have
power.
 
Paul said:
First, when you plug in the new supply by itself, and switch on at
the back, the fan should not run. That's because, when the supply is
just sitting on your bench, there is nothing to pull down PS_ON#.

(To get it to run the fan, while on the bench, you have to short
PS_ON# to COM with an unfolded paper clip.)

Some still won't power on unless there is a load on the 12V rail.
That's why PSU testers include a resistor (e.g., 10W) for some load. If
you don't want buy one, attach a hard disk drive to provide some load.
 
Mike said:
I left the machine on, when I came back, it was off and it won't powerup.

EliteGroup 741GX-M2
Integrated SiS LAN, sound, graphics
AMD Geode MX-1750 cpu
1.2G ram

I thought I could take a shortcut and just replace the PS, but the new
PS doesn't give a powerlight or run its fan either. I used the mobo
jumper to clear the CMOS, but that didn't help.

I don't see any funny capacitors on the mobo.

What brands of capacitors? OST brand is known to fail without bulging
or leaking, although almost every time an ECS motherboard quit on me,
an OST capacitor near the DIMM sockets was bulging.
 
Thanks for your help, Paul.

On the bench

I hate it when nothing gives me a positive result. My old RadioShack
multimeter was dead even with a new battery and needed to be replaced.
Fortunately the 2nd, slightly more distant, WalMart in the area had a
good deal on that.

I have now backed up/ regressed/ to the point that both the new and the
old PS are on the bench, having now removed the new replacement PS as
well. The business about 20 vs 24 pin PS layout is a little confusing
because the old PS is/was a replacement and it is 24 pin whereas the
mobo is 20 pin and the newest PS is 20+4. I had used a 24 to 20 pin
adapter for/ to use/ the old PS.

So/But either way, 20 or 24 pin, the +5VSB Purple is on pin 9, whereas
the PS_ON# Green is on pin 14 on the 20 and pin 16 on the 24 and the
adjacent COM Black is on pin 15 on the 20 and pin 17 on the 24. So,
I'll talk colors.

Everything tested related to PS is dead. Both PS/s have a switch and
voltage set to 115 and the switch/es were on during the measurements and
evaluation. The new PS had never been used, but was purchased as a
spare while it was on sale with rebate. However, I didn't test it at
the time of purchase, I just removed the packaging UPC and redeemed the
rebate. There's a lesson #1. If you/I buy a PS on sale for a spare, at
least bench test it for +5VSB and PS_ON# when the purchase is fresh and
it would have been simple to just return a bad PS to that storefront
merchant Fry's for exchange, way back then.

So the +5vsb purple is dead on both PS old and new, and shorting the
green ps_on# to its adjacent black com also gives me no PS fan on either
one.

Plug a hard drive or a couple of fans into the power supply, some won't
turn on correctly without a small load on them.
 
david said:
Plug a hard drive or a couple of fans into the power supply, some won't
turn on correctly without a small load on them.

But as far as I know, the +5VSB should operate, without any loading
considerations. Whether you load any of the main rails (3.3V/5V/12V),
the +5VSB should still come up. It's made from simple things, like
the equivalent of a 7805 regulator.

If you look at the circuit in the lower left corner here, there is
a switcher for the "second power supply". Diode D30, provides
a supervisor voltage to the TL494 main chip. The 78L05 is a
dumb three terminal linear regulator, providing +5VSB. That circuit
should be delivering +5VSB, as soon as the cord is plugged in, and
the switch on the back of the computer is in the on position.
Things that would stop it, would include a blown fuse (F1- upper left),
or anything which prevents 300VDC from making its way down to
the "second power supply".

http://www.pavouk.org/hw/atxps.png

The 78L05 in that circuit, will operate with no load. I've built up
a ton of home projects, using those three terminal regulators, and
with no load, you can connect a high impedance multimeter and
get a reading of the correct voltage from them.

Modern supplies, may use a slightly different implementation
for +5VSB. I think you can get linear chips, up to about 5A,
and I built up a circuit earlier this year, that is good to 3A.
It's more efficient to use the switcher to do that directly,
but the manufacturer will do whatever is cheapest to build.
The design intent remains the same though, namely, that +5VSB run,
with no load, as soon as primary 120/220V power is available
to the circuit. That requirement must be met, so that the computer
"Sleep" state can be supported. The computer can't "Sleep"
successfully, without +5VSB.

I would do a double check of the cord, before tossing anything,
to make sure it isn't a bad cord or a broken conductor. Or perhaps
even the distribution strip has a bad outlet.

Paul
 
Paul said:
I would do a double check of the cord, before tossing anything,
to make sure it isn't a bad cord or a broken conductor. Or perhaps
even the distribution strip has a bad outlet.

I had been using the cord from the old PS. Now just to give a positive
report on /something/ - anything, including the multimeter, both the old
and the new PS cords show correct line voltage at the C14 coupler end,
also confirming the bench strip.

There is a 'fuzzy' observation point about the new PS which is different
from the old.

When plugged in and then turned on, it 'seems like' there is some
transient effect on a small incandescent lamp's brightness on the same
circuit, as if the line voltage had been very slightly and very very
transiently affected by something. That effect 'vanishes' - does not
occur - if the switch is turned off and back on.

Perhaps it is related to some internal capacitor in the new PS
being/getting charged up and remaining charged during the off phase of
re-evaluating.

The old PS does not demonstrate the same effect when initially turned
on, so maybe it is 'dead in a different way'.
 
Mentioned 3 hours earlier.
But as far as I know, the +5VSB should operate, without any loading
considerations. Whether you load any of the main rails (3.3V/5V/12V),
the +5VSB should still come up.

5VSB is used just for powering the power-on logic on the motherboard
(http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx2_1.pdf, section
4.1.3.2). So seeing the 5VSB line producing +5 volts doesn't mean the
PSU will supply usabe power to the actual devices of the system.

Also remember that it is more important to test the voltage output under
load. A regulated output might show great voltage under no-load
condition but drop severely when placed under any load. So even if the
PSU doesn't require an actual load to have it power up the +5 and +12
rails, you should have something on those rails to load them when you're
checking their voltage.
 
Mike said:
I had been using the cord from the old PS. Now just to give a positive
report on /something/ - anything, including the multimeter, both the old
and the new PS cords show correct line voltage at the C14 coupler end,
also confirming the bench strip.

There is a 'fuzzy' observation point about the new PS which is different
from the old.

When plugged in and then turned on, it 'seems like' there is some
transient effect on a small incandescent lamp's brightness on the same
circuit, as if the line voltage had been very slightly and very very
transiently affected by something. That effect 'vanishes' - does not
occur - if the switch is turned off and back on.

Perhaps it is related to some internal capacitor in the new PS
being/getting charged up and remaining charged during the off phase of
re-evaluating.

The old PS does not demonstrate the same effect when initially turned
on, so maybe it is 'dead in a different way'.

That effect, is called "inrush current". For a couple of AC primary side
cycles, the rectifiers are pumping up the main capacitor. This draws a
*lot* of current from the AC line. Sometimes, you can get a spec for
that, and the value could be 40 amps for a couple cycles. 40 amps times
the resistance of the house wiring for that transient, translates into
a visible drop in voltage as viewed by the lamps lighting your house.

The rectifiers on the input, have a steady state current rating, and
a transient rating. And the transient rating will be a lot higher
(because it takes time to "blow up" the diodes :-) ).

I have one new power supply, where the inrush effect is so pronounced, it
temporarily trips my UPS "overcurrent" indicator. Normally, the
period of time, times the current, isn't sufficient to do that,
but the Sparkle brand supply I bought, seems to draw more than
the other supplies.

Looking at the reference schematic for an ATX supply, the "NTCR1"
negative temperature coefficient device up near the power
inlet, is intended to produce an RC charging time constant.
When the supply is cold, and you flip the switch for the
first time, NTCR1 has a high resistance value R. Then, the charging
transient for the main capacitor, takes a longer time to complete.
That reduces but does not eliminate the "lamp dimming" effect.

NTCR1 gets hot while it's operating. In the hot state, the internal
value of R drops to a low value. That's the "negative temperature
coefficient" feature of the materials used in its design. With the
value of R dropping, there isn't a large effect on the "efficiency"
measure of the supply. So over the long term, the value of R stays
low, and efficiency doesn't suffer too much due to the inclusion
of inrush limiting.

If you toggle the power switch rapidly between ON and OFF, NTCR1
has no chance to cool off. Any capacitor charging transient then,
is not suppressed, and the lights will dim a lot more than if NTCR1
was cold. Which is why I recommend to people, wait a short time like
30 seconds, before flipping a power supply back ON again.

Now, another thing to think about, is if the line voltage is
dropping temporarily, why aren't the other computer(s) connected
to the power strip being reset ? They're not affected, because
their main capacitor functions as a "hold up" device, storing
enough energy to wait out the transient caused by starting the
other supply. It is also one of the reasons that cheap UPS devices,
with transfer times measured in the milliseconds, don't cause connected
computers to be reset. If an adapter doesn't have sufficient
charge storage inside it, then a short transient may well be
enough to reset something.

*******

The fact you see that transient, when you flip the switch, means
your primary side capacitor is successfully connected to the line.
You likely have the 300VDC or more, present at the inlet to the
secondary supply circuit. Now the question would be, why isn't the
+5VSB showing up ? Both the +5VSB terminal on the main power cord,
and the PS_ON# signal, should be at 5.0 volts measured value, if
the power supply is just sitting there on the bench.

There is no need to worry about loading the supply, until you're
ready to assert PS_ON# (connect it to ground, for the period of
time you wish to check the main supply section). For an initial
check, that the supervisory part of the supply is working, verification
of the presence of 5 volts on +5VSB is sufficient. And +5VSB should
be within regulation even at zero current draw.

It's better to have some load on the main connector, if you're
asserting PS_ON# and doing a test of the main rails. The label
on some supplies, states the minimum recommended current flow,
to allow the supply to maintain regulation. So if you intend
to assert PS_ON# (with the paper clip to COM), then you can connect
the main cable to something or connect a couple hard drives
to the Molex cables. The hard drives would load two of the three
"main, high current" outputs.

I purchased a set of power resistors, an ATX extender cable, and
build a small load for testing ATX supplies here. When I get a
new supply, I run it for a couple hours, while connected to that
dummy load, and check the rail voltages with a multimeter. That's
how I stay within the spirit of the "provide some loading" thing.
But that hasn't stopped me from temporarily testing a supply
with no load on it, to see if the internal fan still works, as
a quick test. (Note that, once a power supply emits "magic smoke",
I stop testing it. I try not to torture them and make them
blow up, if I can avoid it. But if a supply has given no signs
it's about to "go", I'll then still give it a test of some sort.
That operating philosophy, is to protect my eardrums :-) )

Paul
 
Paul said:
Mike Easter wrote:
That effect, is called "inrush current".
The fact you see that transient, when you flip the switch, means
your primary side capacitor is successfully connected to the line.
You likely have the 300VDC or more, present at the inlet to the
secondary supply circuit. Now the question would be, why isn't the
+5VSB showing up ? Both the +5VSB terminal on the main power cord,
and the PS_ON# signal, should be at 5.0 volts measured value, if
the power supply is just sitting there on the bench.

Here's another bench testing PS data point with a 3rd old PS I found
lying around which I had removed for 'likely faulty' at some time in the
past. I don't remember what was going wrong that caused me to replace
it. We'll call it #3 or 'the really old PS'.

The really old PS also 'bothers' the same circuit when it is switched
on, in fact, it bothers the circuit more than the new broken PS does.

That #3 old PS /does/ run its fan when green/black ps_on#-com is
shorted, which neither of the other PS/s did; and/but it also doesn't
have any voltage at the purple +5vsb pin. I test for that voltage with
the multimeter with one lead in a black com pin and one lead in the
purple +5vsb pin.

I guess I hadn't thrown that suspicious PS away in spite of its being
removed and replaced with a PS which solved whatever the problem was
because I hadn't done any other troubleshooting besides remove and
replace the PS.
 
Mike said:
Here's another bench testing PS data point with a 3rd old PS I found
lying around which I had removed for 'likely faulty' at some time in the
past. I don't remember what was going wrong that caused me to replace
it. We'll call it #3 or 'the really old PS'.

The really old PS also 'bothers' the same circuit when it is switched
on, in fact, it bothers the circuit more than the new broken PS does.

That #3 old PS /does/ run its fan when green/black ps_on#-com is
shorted, which neither of the other PS/s did; and/but it also doesn't
have any voltage at the purple +5vsb pin. I test for that voltage with
the multimeter with one lead in a black com pin and one lead in the
purple +5vsb pin.

I guess I hadn't thrown that suspicious PS away in spite of its being
removed and replaced with a PS which solved whatever the problem was
because I hadn't done any other troubleshooting besides remove and
replace the PS.

I tried the test case here (using an Antec that hasn't blown up yet...)

1) Plug in spare PSU (connecting only its line cord, rest left dangling)
2) Switch ON at the back (switch in "1" position).
3) Check the purple and the green wire, with respect to black.
I got 5.12V on each of those wires, which tells me the
supervisory voltage is present.

In "inrush" dimming of the lights by the Antec, was minimal and
barely noticeable.

The motherboard logic that conditions the front panel momentary
contact POWER switch, cannot work without +5VSB. So it has to be there.
The motherboard logic converts the "pulse" that comes from the
POWER switch, into a steady "level" on PS_ON#. The logic also includes
a four second timer, which is applied when the system has an OS
running, which prevents accidental shutdown by bumping into
the switch. The POWER switch must be held in for four seconds
in that case. And the motherboard logic running from +5VSB,
takes care of that detail. So the POWER switch on the front, doesn't
directly drive PS_ON#. It takes an indirect path, and
the logic in that path needs a power source to work, and
to drive PS_ON#.

Paul
 
Mike said:
The new PS had never been used, but was purchased as a spare while it
was on sale with rebate. However, I didn't test it at the time of
purchase, I just removed the packaging UPC and redeemed the rebate.
There's a lesson #1. If you/I buy a PS on sale for a spare, at least
bench test it for +5VSB and PS_ON# when the purchase is fresh and it
would have been simple to just return a bad PS to that storefront
merchant Fry's for exchange, way back then.

Since I save all kinds of stuff related to electronics purchases, I was
able to go to the old records and find the purchase documents.

This 'new' PS is a CoolerMaster eXtreme Power Plus 460 which was purchased
2010 Mar 22 and put on the shelf.

The information inside the packaging says there is a 2 year warranty from
the date of purchase. I've sent an email to the service address the
warranty showed which is at coolermaster.com.tw.

Hmmm. Looking further online, I think I'll use the CM online process.
 
Since I save all kinds of stuff related to electronics purchases, I was
able to go to the old records and find the purchase documents.

This 'new' PS is a CoolerMaster eXtreme Power Plus 460 which was purchased
2010 Mar 22 and put on the shelf.

The information inside the packaging says there is a 2 year warranty from
the date of purchase. I've sent an email to the service address the
warranty showed which is at coolermaster.com.tw.

Hmmm. Looking further online, I think I'll use the CM online process.


It truely would be quicker to call their 1-800 number.
 
It truely would be quicker to call their 1-800 number.

Really? Are you speaking 'generically' or about CM specifically?

In my experience generically speaking, I *never* call a support number.

- most companies farm out their support telephone to the lowest bidder
because it is the most expensive kind of support they can provide
- the lowest bidder is generally in a support system in some 3rd world
country, which support person is not well informed about anything and
doesn't speak the same language I do very well
-or- the support telephone number goes into some kind of voice mail menu
system which doesn't actually result in talking to a person who is helpful

The online system had a place for me to input the serial number of the PS
as well as uploading a copy of my receipt. The online system also has a
mechanism for me to do online chat. I would rather use online chat than
an 800 number because of my negative experience with 800 numbers.

The worst case 800 number scenario I can think of is some big ISP like
EarthLink. The way I work it with EL is to do all of my own
troubleshooting to determine that the problem is actually on EL's end and
not my own. Then if it is a connectivity issue, I call my local cableco
TimeWarner, because they provide the infrastructure for EL, RR, and AOL.

If it is related to EL's servers, then I figure out what the problem is
and how to prove it, and then write a description of the issue and the
troubleshooting. Then I open up a chat session and when the tech answers
I tell him I don't want to troubleshoot my system I want him to give his
supervisor my report and I upload the report and say bye and leave.

There are a few situations that if I know a direct support number to a
known real person who is competent that I would use that. I don't do
potluck 800 numbers.
 
Mike said:
Then if it is a connectivity issue, I call my local cableco TimeWarner,
because they provide the infrastructure for EL, RR, and AOL.

I don't mean TW does that 'generally'.

In my immediate area, TW has a monopoly and provides all the cable
service. They were 'mandated' when TW & AOL first got married that TW had
to provide access to 3 ISPs. The 3 ISPs they provide cable infrastructure
to for this immediate area are EL, RR, & AOL.
 
The motherboard logic that conditions the front panel momentary
contact POWER switch, cannot work without +5VSB. So it has to be there.
The motherboard logic converts the "pulse" that comes from the
POWER switch, into a steady "level" on PS_ON#. The logic also includes
a four second timer, which is applied when the system has an OS
running, which prevents accidental shutdown by bumping into
the switch. The POWER switch must be held in for four seconds
in that case. And the motherboard logic running from +5VSB,
takes care of that detail. So the POWER switch on the front, doesn't
directly drive PS_ON#. It takes an indirect path, and
the logic in that path needs a power source to work, and
to drive PS_ON#.

Hello,

I am probably missing something, so I will ask: Why would you need to
wait for 4 seconds when running newer versions of Windows, but it
shuts immediately when running Win 3.1/DOS??

Thank you.
Geo
 
GEO" [email protected] said:
Hello,

I am probably missing something, so I will ask: Why would you need to
wait for 4 seconds when running newer versions of Windows, but it
shuts immediately when running Win 3.1/DOS??

Thank you.
Geo

The timer must be enabled. If the OS is modern enough, it knows
about the hardware feature (somehow). I don't know whether this
feature is covered by APM or ACPI, or is handled in some other way.

The purpose of the four second timer, is to protect against the
user accidentally brushing against the button. It takes a determined
effort, to press and hold the button for four seconds. And that is why
they do it. It's possible that nothing happens, until the four second
period is up, so it's not like the OS is "cleaning up" in preparation
for the end of the four second interval. The shutdown is just as
dirty, as it would be without the four second time constant.

I don't really like the feature all that much. If there is smoke
or fire shooting out of the computer, the very last thing you want
to do, is have to wait four seconds. You have to be aware of this,
in order to reach for the switch on the back, if you want the
power to be removed immediately. And in an emergency situation,
you're not always thinking clearly.

Paul
 
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