New build...P5GD2 Premium. No post!

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agit8er

New system build

P5GD2 Premium
Intel 660
Ultra 500 ps
Corsair Twin 2x2048 5400c-4
Atx600pro 256mb pci-express

Green light on board is on. When powered on, all fans come on (even video
card fan). No post beep.
No video display.

I tested the power supply. I have a twenty pin connector from the power
supply plugged in as well as the atx 4 pin. I have removed all memory and
reseated just one stick. I have checked for proper seating of cpu.

I even checked to orientation of the cmos jumpers just in case they were
reversed. pin one and two is jumpered. I have not cleared the cmos.

This a new build with all new parts. Is there something else I can do? I
don't have another processor or 775 board to do the dreaded parts swamp
thing.

Jeff
 
agit8er said:
New system build

P5GD2 Premium
Intel 660
Ultra 500 ps
Corsair Twin 2x2048 5400c-4
Atx600pro 256mb pci-express

Green light on board is on. When powered on, all fans come on (even
video card fan). No post beep.
No video display.

I tested the power supply. I have a twenty pin connector from the
power supply plugged in as well as the atx 4 pin. I have removed all
memory and reseated just one stick. I have checked for proper
seating of cpu.
I even checked to orientation of the cmos jumpers just in case they
were reversed. pin one and two is jumpered. I have not cleared the
cmos.
This a new build with all new parts. Is there something else I can
do? I don't have another processor or 775 board to do the dreaded
parts swamp thing.

Jeff
Click to expand...

I had this same problem with a P5GD1.

Buy a 24-pin to 20-pin adapter for power supply. Make sure your power supply
can meet the power requirements for this MB.

Vern
 
"agit8er" said:
New system build

P5GD2 Premium
Intel 660
Ultra 500 ps
Corsair Twin 2x2048 5400c-4
Atx600pro 256mb pci-express

Green light on board is on. When powered on, all fans come on (even video
card fan). No post beep.
No video display.

I tested the power supply. I have a twenty pin connector from the power
supply plugged in as well as the atx 4 pin. I have removed all memory and
reseated just one stick. I have checked for proper seating of cpu.

I even checked to orientation of the cmos jumpers just in case they were
reversed. pin one and two is jumpered. I have not cleared the cmos.

This a new build with all new parts. Is there something else I can do? I
don't have another processor or 775 board to do the dreaded parts swamp
thing.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Does your board have Vocal POST ? Plug some amplified speakers
into "Lineout" on the back of the computer. Listen for
an error message.

If there are no error messages, you may want to do a
"cardboard test". The motherboard can be run with no
components on it. A screwdriver tip momentarily touching
the two power switch pins on the PANEL header will turn
the board on. The Vocal POST should give you a "No CPU"
message if there is no CPU installed. After a CPU is
installed, it should tell you "No memory" and the like.
The exact error messages are listed in the manual. Add
components one at a time, and listen for the expected
response, of the Vocal POST identifying the next missing
thing, or complaining about the last item added. Always
shut off and unplug, before adding or removing components.

This is best done with the motherboard assembled outside
the computer case. Pull the PSU from the case and mount
it next to the board. If the motherboard sits on a
thick phone book or other flat insulator, there will even
be room for the plug-in card faceplates to hang below
motherboard level. Be careful not to tug on the video
cable, or the video card will get pulled from its slot
all too easily.

Paul
 
Great tips to get me started. I realize I could just give up and swap
parts. I am an HVAC Tech and It always bothered me when service techs would
change a whole host of parts to finally solve a problem. The goal here is
to help an learn. Two quick responses to my post impresses me and gives me
hope!


VictorDog,
If I use a 24 to 20 adapter, do I still use the four pin atx power lead?

Paul,
I was aware of the cardboard test (probably from one of your other post). I
will attempt that tonight. I will also hook my speakers to check for vocal
post.
I work with Honeywell boards at work and I am very aware of the hazards of
ESD. I
used all required steps when installing cpu, anti static bag, chip
orientation and grounding straps etc.

I will keep all informed of my journey.

Thanx,
Jeff
 
agit8er said:
Great tips to get me started. I realize I could just give up and swap
parts. I am an HVAC Tech and It always bothered me when service
techs would change a whole host of parts to finally solve a problem. The
goal here is to help an learn. Two quick responses to my post
impresses me and gives me hope!


VictorDog,
If I use a 24 to 20 adapter, do I still use the four pin atx power
lead?
Paul,
I was aware of the cardboard test (probably from one of your other
post). I will attempt that tonight. I will also hook my speakers to
check for vocal post.
I work with Honeywell boards at work and I am very aware of the
hazards of ESD. I
used all required steps when installing cpu, anti static bag, chip
orientation and grounding straps etc.

I will keep all informed of my journey.

Thanx,
Jeff
Click to expand...

Read page 2-30 of your manual. 4-pin power plug is required for boot up.

Vern
 
Thanx Vern.

I read that page, but I thought that I used the atx four pin because I only
had a 20 pin connector.
There I go trying to read more into something than I need to. Just being
overly cautious at this point.

Jeff
 
agit8er said:
Thanx Vern.

I read that page, but I thought that I used the atx four pin because
I only had a 20 pin connector.
There I go trying to read more into something than I need to. Just
being overly cautious at this point.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Jeff:
I am with you, I do NOT believe in replacing item(s)....I only do that as a
last resort.

I built my system from scratch. I took it back to where I bought the parts
four times. Every time was a waste. It was time for me to troubleshoot. The
only thing that made sense to me for my symptoms was to replace the power
supply with a 24-pin plug. Since I could not find one locally, I bought a
24-pin to 20-pin adapter for my power supply, $2.00 plus tax. My computer
has NOT had any more problems.

Vern
 
"VictorDog" said:
Jeff:
I am with you, I do NOT believe in replacing item(s)....I only do that as a
last resort.

I built my system from scratch. I took it back to where I bought the parts
four times. Every time was a waste. It was time for me to troubleshoot. The
only thing that made sense to me for my symptoms was to replace the power
supply with a 24-pin plug. Since I could not find one locally, I bought a
24-pin to 20-pin adapter for my power supply, $2.00 plus tax. My computer
has NOT had any more problems.

Vern
Click to expand...

The extra pins on the 24 pin power plug are redundant. The extra
pins don't connect anything unique, they only add more copper wire
to carry the current. As long as the motherboard does not draw
more than 6 amps through each pin on the 20 pin connector, it should
work just as well as the 24 pin connector. You just have to make
sure you've connected it properly - the 20 pin should not hang over
the end of the 24 pin motherboard connector, if you are using a
20 pin power supply.

Pg.29 shows the pinout of a 20 pin ATX power connector.
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx/ATX12V_1_3dg.pdf

Pg.36 shows the pinout of a 24 pin ATX power connector.
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf

The difference is an extra 3.3V, 5V, 12V, and COM (GND) pin.

And you'll have to excuse the standards people who write those
docs, as they cannot stick to a plan. The N/C pin on the 20 pin
is actually -5V on the old supplies. The newer 24 pin power
connectors are usually N/C (no connect) on the -5V pin, but
with very few exceptions, new motherboards don't use -5V.

The only time the 24 pin connector would really be required, is
if the loading on 12V went over six amps. A PCI Express video
card slot has a limited number of 12V pins (5 of them), and at
1 amp max each, I think it is pretty hard to exceed the six
amps you can move through the 20 pin connector. When multiple
PCI Express cards become common in computers, then it may be
theoretically possible to exceed the capacities of the 20 pin
power connector. That is one reason the SLI boards from Asus
use both an ATX power connector and a molex to provide room for
more amps.

Paul
 
Hi Jeff,

Yesterday I had the exact same problem as you (with a P5LD2 Deluxe
board). No post, no beep, no speaker warning...) I thought that I had
broken something on my motherboard. But finally, by uninstalling the
processor and reinstalling it on the mobo, it solved the problem (I
don't know why !!)

So, if the tests people have recommended to you does not function, you
could always try that

HTH
 
Here is the "vocal post message"

"system failed cpu test"

I did a "cardboard test" and with nothing installed on the board, I received
a "no cpu installed"
response. After installing the cpu and heatsink, I received a "system
failed cpu test".

I next called Asus customer support and was told to verify condition of the
processor first and if it was found to be good, they would RMA a new board.

If my processor is good then I will get a new board and hope all is well.
If the cpu is bad then
I start to wonder. Did something on this board fry my cpu? Obviously
getting a replacement cpu will
not solve the problem. I'll just have another fried chip.

Jeff
 
"agit8er" said:
Here is the "vocal post message"

"system failed cpu test"

I did a "cardboard test" and with nothing installed on the board, I received
a "no cpu installed"
response. After installing the cpu and heatsink, I received a "system
failed cpu test".

I next called Asus customer support and was told to verify condition of the
processor first and if it was found to be good, they would RMA a new board.

If my processor is good then I will get a new board and hope all is well.
If the cpu is bad then
I start to wonder. Did something on this board fry my cpu? Obviously
getting a replacement cpu will
not solve the problem. I'll just have another fried chip.

Jeff
Click to expand...

"I'll just have another fried chip."

Those are the perils of hardware swapping. Particularly bad
is when a defective hardware device damages other devices
and you only find out after damaging some other things twice.

This is one of the reasons, if a friend drops over to the
house and says "mind if I test my processor in your
computer", just say No. :-)

Inspect the socket and the bottom of the processor carefully.
Do not handle either the pins in the socket or the contacts
on the processor, as the oils from your hands can contaminate
the interface. It is a case of "look but don't touch". I'm not
aware of any cleaning procedure validated for home use, so if
you find contamination from the factory, you'll have to convince
Asus or Intel that it is their fault. Virtually any solvent
you apply, will leave a residue behind.

In terms of the Asus warranty, I believe you are required to
ship the LGA775 socket with that protective plastic piece
in place. If the motherboard is shipped without the plastic
piece covering the pins, it could invalidate the warranty.
That is how serious they consider the contamination issue.

Paul
 
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