Need Expert Help, Please :)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kate
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Kate

I've been building computers since 1988 but have a dilemma maybe some of
you smart people can help me with.

I built the system (listed belw) in Dec '04 with a RAIDMAX 420w PSU and
a little 6200GT video card. For nearly 2 years now the system has been
solid as a rock.

Then I discovered Second Life and decided to upgrade my video card,
which meant upgrading my PSU.

Now my system reads as follows:

Box:
MSI K8N Neo4 Platiunum Ultra nForce4 [non-SLI] (PCB 1.0a)
AMD Athlon 64 +3000
1 GB Mushkin DDR400 PC 3200 Dual Ch. RAM (2 x 512)
2 SATA II Samsung 160GB drives (not in RAID)
1 SATA Plextor DVD
1 XFX 7950GT
XION 600w PSU (+12v running 28A)
Sound Blaster Live! Drive Platinum (CT4760, 1999)
1 floppy

The problem, is the video card and Sound Blaster Live! will not play
nice. If I leave the SB installed (the hardware, that is), when I go to
boot the system hangs during POST. IOW, fans engage, DVD light flashes,
all seems honkey dorey, then just as you'd expect the CMOS info to come
rolling up on screen.... nothing happens. Black screen. Nothing. (I also
don't get the initial beep that tells you everything is cool a second or
two after power up.)

If I take the SB Live! out, everything is great.

I tried telling CMOS to reserve IRQ5 for a legacy PCI/ISA device. Didn't
help. I would use another sound card, but this one has the bay drive
unit with front ports for midi, SPDIF, phones, inputs, etc. It was
originally a few hundred dollars, and I don't care to replace it.

I emailed Creative Labs. They don't offer technical support for this
device anymore. I do have all the drivers up to date, though.

Ideas?

Thanks folks,
Kate
 
Kate said:
I've been building computers since 1988 but have a dilemma maybe some of
you smart people can help me with.

I built the system (listed belw) in Dec '04 with a RAIDMAX 420w PSU and
a little 6200GT video card. For nearly 2 years now the system has been
solid as a rock.

Then I discovered Second Life and decided to upgrade my video card,
which meant upgrading my PSU.

Now my system reads as follows:

Box:
MSI K8N Neo4 Platiunum Ultra nForce4 [non-SLI] (PCB 1.0a)
AMD Athlon 64 +3000
1 GB Mushkin DDR400 PC 3200 Dual Ch. RAM (2 x 512)
2 SATA II Samsung 160GB drives (not in RAID)
1 SATA Plextor DVD
1 XFX 7950GT
XION 600w PSU (+12v running 28A)
Sound Blaster Live! Drive Platinum (CT4760, 1999)
1 floppy

The problem, is the video card and Sound Blaster Live! will not play
nice. If I leave the SB installed (the hardware, that is), when I go to
boot the system hangs during POST. IOW, fans engage, DVD light flashes,
all seems honkey dorey, then just as you'd expect the CMOS info to come
rolling up on screen.... nothing happens. Black screen. Nothing. (I also
don't get the initial beep that tells you everything is cool a second or
two after power up.)

If I take the SB Live! out, everything is great.

I tried telling CMOS to reserve IRQ5 for a legacy PCI/ISA device. Didn't
help. I would use another sound card, but this one has the bay drive
unit with front ports for midi, SPDIF, phones, inputs, etc. It was
originally a few hundred dollars, and I don't care to replace it.

I don't remember the 'live' series having the bay inputs. Audigy2 (platinum)
variety did.
I emailed Creative Labs. They don't offer technical support for this
device anymore. I do have all the drivers up to date, though.

Ideas?

Thanks folks,
Kate

reset the configuration data (ESCD) or reset the cmos with the cards
installed
 
Hi, How is the zion power supply I just got a 7900gto and Im not shure my
xfinity 500 watt is enouph .
Im not an expert but did you try a different pci slot.
 
Peter said:
Hi, How is the zion power supply I just got a 7900gto and Im not shure my
xfinity 500 watt is enouph .

Hi Peter,

The 7900GTO (I looked at them b/c I got that card first) requires the
+12v rail running min 22A (amps) _for non-SLI mode_, and min 450w PSU.

So if you are not using SLI and the +12v rail on your 500w PSU is rated
at least 22A, you're good.

Now, the SLI mode on that card requires a min 550w PSU running 34A on
the +12v rail. That's tricker to find, and more expensive when ya do. ;)
But if ya stick with one video card, you'll be fine. (I asuume you know
but in case you're new to this, "SLI mode" is when you use two of the
same vid card in one computer for extra performance.)
Im not an expert but did you try a different pci slot.

Oddly, that little trick works many times, and yes, I'd tried that but
it made no diff. ;)

Hope you enjoy your GTO. It was hard for me to spend more money for a
slower card, but I didn't want the fan noise. (The XFX 7950GT is passive
cooled.) Imo you have the best value card out there, fans/passive
cooling aside.

Kate
 
That card had a world of patches trying to get it to
run with modern games. You might try the latest
patches for it. Personally, I would toss it. Check the
UBI Far Cry Discussion site. I think I remember some
squawking about problems and patches there. Search
on your card in the Technical section.

johns
 
Peter said:
Hi, How is the zion power supply [...]

Sorry, I forgot to answer this. I got a OCZ ModStream first that I
really liked, but my mobo was not POSTing with it, so I thought the PSU
was faulty and returned it. Turned out it was this conflict with the SB
card.

Meanwhile, the ModStream is discontinued (I got the last one from
Newegg) and I'd picked it b/c it had 32A on the +12V rail, was modular
and had active PFC. (Was also $114.)

In having to return the 7900GTO opened, I paid a hefty restocking fee,
so when I went to pick another PSU I decided to try to find something
more reasonably priced. People say don't save money on a PSU, but in my
experience at least PSUs have never been a problem. I was hesitant about
the XION b/c it doesn't have any of the protections other PSUs have:
like no over-voltage protection, and no PFC. I read the reviews at
Newegg and people loved it, or got a bad one and hated it.

Good things:
Has good heft to it (they say heavier PSUs are better quality in
general)
600w
12v rail runs 28A
**140cm** fan is ultra large and competely silent
Auto/Hi/Low manual or automatic fan speed settings
(2) SATA connectors
(2) 4-pin floppy-type connectors (one for floppy, one for my SATA DVD)
(10) molex
24-pin mobo
Nice metal-chrome finish and blue LED
Price: sale at Directron.com for $59 (was $79)
(Newegg was $89)

"Bad" things:
Company is brand new -- this could be good or bad. People said the techs
were real responsive, so that's good. That they *needed* techs isn't so
good. ;)

No PFC
No Voltage over protection

--------------------

I have been keeping an eye on the voltage to see how much it flucuates.
It's not steady like a rock, but the flucuations are within acceptable
specs, and my system has run solid the last few days I've been using it.
But I can't say how it will perform in the long run. I just wanted the
large quiet fan and v specs. Plus I have my PSU plugged into a power
conditioner, so I'm not too worried about power spikes or the like.

I also REALLY like how quiet it is. ;)

Hope that helps.
 
Hey jonhs,
That card had a world of patches trying to get it to
run with modern games. You might try the latest
patches for it.

I do have the latest drivers, according to Creative Labs. But maybe
patches are a different story. I used their update tool to check it
themselves (something I rarely do but because it's legacy I thought the
tool might do a better job than I could), but I couldn't have the 7950
installed at the same time (for obvious reasons) so if there were
patches for that card, the tool would not have thought I needed them. I
looked manually, but couldn't find anything that seemed relevant.
Personally, I would toss it.

::whimper:: The bay is really handy. I use it constantly. And the sound
is great. I hate to toss it, it was a pretty penny and still meets all
my needs. Plus I'd like to upgrade my CPU to a FX-55 2.6 San Diego,
which will be another $200... the funds are limited. But I hear what
you're saying for sure. Legacy stuff is a PITA.
Check the
UBI Far Cry Discussion site. I think I remember some
squawking about problems and patches there. Search
on your card in the Technical section.

Thanks for your suggestion! I'll check that out...!

Kate
 
The 7900GTO (I looked at them b/c I got that card first) requires
the +12v rail running min 22A (amps) _for non-SLI mode_, and min
450w PSU.

So if you are not using SLI and the +12v rail on your 500w PSU is
rated at least 22A, you're good.

My 380 W Antec power supply is 2 x 16A at 12 V.

Apparently wattage ratings are almost meaningless.
 
JAD said:
I don't remember the 'live' series having the bay inputs. Audigy2 (platinum)
variety did.

Yeah, this one is SB "Live! Drive" Platinum, and it has a front bay with
MIDI in/out ports (great for my old synthesizer), headphones with vol
control (I use constantly), line in (also use often), and SPDIF in/out
ports. My mobo has all these ports (minus MIDI) but they are on the rear
AND are not active if you disable the mobo sound (which needless to say
is always disabled for the sound card).
reset the configuration data (ESCD) or reset the cmos with the cards
installed

Tried resetting CMOS with cards installed several times. Also removed
the battery and waited a few minutes, then reinstalled. But when both
cards are present in the system, it won't POST, so I can't get into the
CMOS setup unless I take one of them out and reboot.

I might try leaving the sound card in the PCI slot, but disconnecting
the parallel cable (and power connector) that runs to the Live! Drive
bay... Just to see if the vid card and SB will run together w/o the bay
attached.

And I'm going to check out the link johns gave me.

Will report back later in case anyone's interested in the results.

Thanks, guys. :)
 
John Doe said:
My 380 W Antec power supply is 2 x 16A at 12 V.

Apparently wattage ratings are almost meaningless.

You know, I was wondering about this and asked a tech at OCZ but haven't
heard back yet... I'm sure this is a really stupid question, but when a
PSU has double or even triple 12v rails (as some now do), can you add up
all the amps from those [12v] rails to see if it would meet the
requirements of a particular video card? Because I was under the
impression you have to have at least one 12v rail running the required
amps, all by itself.

IOW, let's say a specific card requires a minimum:
450w PSU running 12v rail @ 22A:

PSU #1 hypothetical: 600w running (3) 12v rails @ 15A each
no good -- not enough juice on any single 12v rail

PSU #2 420w running (1) 12v rail @ 22A
no good -- wattage too low

PSU #3 500w running (1) 12v rail @ 32A
bingo -- this'll work

Now that's my understanding. (Obviously the second example is a
no-brainer... if the wattage is too low, it's too low).

But I spent HOURS looking at specs at Newegg trying to find PSUs that
ran enough juice on the 12v rail for these high-end cards! I guess if I
wasn't trying to spend the least amount necessary to get a good
candidate, it mighta been easier. Just go directly to the PSUs well over
$100, but I was trying to stick close to $60-$100.

I also heard mention of *adjustable* rails, where you can actually dial
in the amps you want (or allocate the available amps) for each 12v rail.
I didn't see those when I was shopping though, so they were out of my
price range. :)

Kate
 
Kate said:
You know, I was wondering about this and asked a tech at OCZ but
haven't heard back yet...

I'm sure wattage ratings are almost meaningless, generally speaking.
Besides hearing that stated in this group sometimes, you can look at
the pictures of power supply specifications for individual power
supplies, provided on Newegg's web site.
I'm sure this is a really stupid question, but when a PSU has
double or even triple 12v rails (as some now do), can you add up
all the amps from those [12v] rails to see if it would meet the
requirements of a particular video card? Because I was under the
impression you have to have at least one 12v rail running the
required amps, all by itself.

You have to guess.
If they were giving you the requirements for the video card, the
rest of your system wouldn't get anything from the 12 V supply.

If I wanted more specific information about how much power a
particular video card requires and whether a particular power supply
will satisfy its need, I might ask in the video card group.

Good luck and have fun.
 
Note on PSU,
my xfinity 500 has only 16 amp and 18 amp on both the 12v rails. But its not
sharing with the processor because thats on a seperate rail. Ive heard that
they add together That be 34 amp but I doubt it .
Gto card requires 22 amp evga said I was at the border of requirements.
one psu had 42 amps on 12 volt for $160 cheap pc power and cooling on
newegg. better

Note on sound card:
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=290238
Worth every penny

Having a good computer priceless

Kate said:
John Doe said:
My 380 W Antec power supply is 2 x 16A at 12 V.

Apparently wattage ratings are almost meaningless.

You know, I was wondering about this and asked a tech at OCZ but haven't
heard back yet... I'm sure this is a really stupid question, but when a
PSU has double or even triple 12v rails (as some now do), can you add up
all the amps from those [12v] rails to see if it would meet the
requirements of a particular video card? Because I was under the
impression you have to have at least one 12v rail running the required
amps, all by itself.

IOW, let's say a specific card requires a minimum:
450w PSU running 12v rail @ 22A:

PSU #1 hypothetical: 600w running (3) 12v rails @ 15A each
no good -- not enough juice on any single 12v rail

PSU #2 420w running (1) 12v rail @ 22A
no good -- wattage too low

PSU #3 500w running (1) 12v rail @ 32A
bingo -- this'll work

Now that's my understanding. (Obviously the second example is a
no-brainer... if the wattage is too low, it's too low).

But I spent HOURS looking at specs at Newegg trying to find PSUs that
ran enough juice on the 12v rail for these high-end cards! I guess if I
wasn't trying to spend the least amount necessary to get a good
candidate, it mighta been easier. Just go directly to the PSUs well over
$100, but I was trying to stick close to $60-$100.

I also heard mention of *adjustable* rails, where you can actually dial
in the amps you want (or allocate the available amps) for each 12v rail.
I didn't see those when I was shopping though, so they were out of my
price range. :)

Kate
 
Peter said:

Seems like only yesterday, the SoundBlaster Audigy was the most
amazing thing on earth (and before that the SoundBlaster Live or
whatever, and so on). Tomorrow it will be something else. But there
is a real point at which your ears cannot distinguish less noise,
and that's not going to change for a very long time.

If you (generally speaking) want to be concerned about sound cards,
you might want to consider software system requirements. For example
the new flight simulator from Microsoft will require two sound
sources/cards. The built-in audio on most mainboards would come in
very handy if it's usable.
Having a good computer priceless

Yeah, if only money grew on trees.
 
Kate said:
Peter said:
Hi, How is the zion power supply [...]

Sorry, I forgot to answer this. I got a OCZ ModStream first that I
really liked, but my mobo was not POSTing with it, so I thought the
PSU was faulty and returned it. Turned out it was this conflict with
the SB card.

Meanwhile, the ModStream is discontinued (I got the last one from
Newegg) and I'd picked it b/c it had 32A on the +12V rail, was modular
and had active PFC. (Was also $114.)

In having to return the 7900GTO opened, I paid a hefty restocking fee,
so when I went to pick another PSU I decided to try to find something
more reasonably priced. People say don't save money on a PSU, but in
my experience at least PSUs have never been a problem. I was hesitant
about the XION b/c it doesn't have any of the protections other PSUs
have: like no over-voltage protection, and no PFC. I read the reviews
at Newegg and people loved it, or got a bad one and hated it.

Good things:
Has good heft to it (they say heavier PSUs are better quality in
general)
600w
12v rail runs 28A
**140cm** fan is ultra large and competely silent
Auto/Hi/Low manual or automatic fan speed settings
(2) SATA connectors
(2) 4-pin floppy-type connectors (one for floppy, one for my SATA DVD)
(10) molex
24-pin mobo
Nice metal-chrome finish and blue LED
Price: sale at Directron.com for $59 (was $79)
(Newegg was $89)

"Bad" things:
Company is brand new -- this could be good or bad. People said the
techs were real responsive, so that's good. That they *needed* techs
isn't so good. ;)

No PFC
No Voltage over protection

--------------------
I have been keeping an eye on the voltage to see how much it flucuates.
It's not steady like a rock, but the flucuations are within acceptable specs,

That doesnt mean much if you are using the motherboard voltage measurement.

I had some reservations with one of mine, they were fine with a real multimeter.
and my system has run solid the last few days I've been using it.
But I can't say how it will perform in the long run. I just wanted the
large quiet fan and v specs. Plus I have my PSU plugged into a power
conditioner, so I'm not too worried about power spikes or the like.
 
Peter said:
Note on PSU,
my xfinity 500 has only 16 amp and 18 amp on both the 12v rails. But its not
sharing with the processor because thats on a seperate rail. Ive heard that
they add together That be 34 amp but I doubt it .
Gto card requires 22 amp evga said I was at the border of requirements.

If it's working, that's great. If your system starts to hang
periodically or acts up while gaming...
one psu had 42 amps on 12 volt for $160 cheap pc power and cooling on
newegg. better

Yeah PC Power & Cooling are supposed to be the best.
Note on sound card:
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=290238
Worth every penny

Having a good computer priceless

LOL.

The new SB above is also having conflicts similar to mine with video
cards in some people's systems. (I just spent a few hours pouring over
the forums at Creative Labs.) I'm sure that's an awesome card, but I
can't replace my SB just now. Too many other priorities. I just ordered
the FX-55 San Diego 2.6 CPU from Newegg. Was gonna get the ClawHammer,
but the SD is .09 nm and supports newer technology (SSE3 instructions).
It also comes with a free 250GB Seagate Barracuda HD I can resell to
help pay for the CPU. :) Anyway -- that was another $200, so with the
7950GT and new PSU -- and the restocking and shipping fees I incurred
($70) from returning the 7900GTO... my computer has gotten all the new
candy it's going to get for now. My Harley still wants chrome controls.
And I'd like a new laptop. :-D
 
Rod Speed said:

Re: XION PSU
That doesnt mean much if you are using the motherboard voltage measurement.

I did look in CMOS but I was mainly referring to a tool MSI gives for
the mobo I have which is just a desktop (sys tray) app that monitors
voltage and temp. I confess I have no idea how accurate it is. It also
alerts you if there's a problem.
I had some reservations with one of mine, they were fine with a real multimeter.

Oh good! You have XIONs too?
 
Lasse Jensen said:
Have you tried the SB card in another machine?

Thanks, yeah it even works fine in *this* machine if the 7950GT vid card
isn't also installed. They are obviously having a hardware conflict,
probably over shared IRQ resources. I know SB doesn't like to share IRQs
(or never did before anyway). I'll have to go the manual route I guess.
Look up/write down what each component uses/shares, then make sure
whatever the SB needs is available by manual reassignment.

I thought my days of chasing down IRQ conflicts were long behind me.
 
John Doe said:
My 380 W Antec power supply is 2 x 16A at 12 V.

Apparently wattage ratings are almost meaningless.

You know, I was wondering about this and asked a tech at OCZ but haven't
heard back yet... I'm sure this is a really stupid question, but when a
PSU has double or even triple 12v rails (as some now do), can you add up
all the amps from those [12v] rails to see if it would meet the
requirements of a particular video card? Because I was under the
impression you have to have at least one 12v rail running the required
amps, all by itself.

IOW, let's say a specific card requires a minimum:
450w PSU running 12v rail @ 22A:

PSU #1 hypothetical: 600w running (3) 12v rails @ 15A each
no good -- not enough juice on any single 12v rail

PSU #2 420w running (1) 12v rail @ 22A
no good -- wattage too low

PSU #3 500w running (1) 12v rail @ 32A
bingo -- this'll work

Now that's my understanding. (Obviously the second example is a
no-brainer... if the wattage is too low, it's too low).

But I spent HOURS looking at specs at Newegg trying to find PSUs that
ran enough juice on the 12v rail for these high-end cards! I guess if I
wasn't trying to spend the least amount necessary to get a good
candidate, it mighta been easier. Just go directly to the PSUs well over
$100, but I was trying to stick close to $60-$100.

I also heard mention of *adjustable* rails, where you can actually dial
in the amps you want (or allocate the available amps) for each 12v rail.
I didn't see those when I was shopping though, so they were out of my
price range. :)

Kate

I was reading an article the other day, where it was suggested that
some supplies with multiple 12V rails, use a single circuit to supply
all the current, and use a current limiter for each individual output
rail. I don't know if that approach meets the spirit of IEC60950, to
limit an individual 12V rail to 20A or not. (IEC60950 says that any
output rail should not be able to supply more than 240W, which is
12V @ 20A. Some supplies have huge single outputs, like a PCP&C
unit with 12V @ 34A, and I don't see them complying with that
safety requirement. I presume the limitation has something to
do with fire safety, but haven't seen an explanation of the
requirement in any detail.)

In terms of picking power supplies, you realize that a
"requires the +12v rail running min 22A (amps)" is pure
baloney. This kind of advice from the manufacturer, is almost
as bad as saying "only works with a 600W supply". You do a
calculation of the loads in the system, to come up with a
minimum requirement for a power supply. The manufacturer may
be assuming a different processor is being used, than the one
you bought.

Box:
MSI K8N Neo4 Platiunum Ultra nForce4 [non-SLI] (PCB 1.0a)
AMD Athlon 64 +3000
1 GB Mushkin DDR400 PC 3200 Dual Ch. RAM (2 x 512)
2 SATA II Samsung 160GB drives (not in RAID)
1 SATA Plextor DVD
1 XFX 7950GT
XION 600w PSU (+12v running 28A)
Sound Blaster Live! Drive Platinum (CT4760, 1999)
1 floppy

The important bits, for calculating the required 12V, are
processor, video card, hard drives, optical drives, and fans.
The rest uses +3.3V and +5V, and usually once the +12V rating
has been satisfied, the 3.3V and 5V are big enough to do the
job. It is not possible to do a meaningful calculation of
+3.3V and +5V in any case, and there are differences in
motherboard design, in terms of where current is drawn
from. Add-in cards, or even peripheral chips on the
motherboard, only draw a watt or two, and can be ignored
for the most part.

On a dual rail supply, 12V2 powers the processor. For a
3000+, there are 89W ones (CG stepping), and 67W ones (like
revision E). I can assume the worst here, and budget for an
89W processor. Your actual processor might be one of the
67W ones.

http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/desktop/details.aspx?opn=ADA3000DEP4AW

12V2_amps = (89W/12V) * (1/0.90) = 8.24A [assumed 90% Vcore efficiency]

The 12V1 rail powers the rest. The major consumer is the video card.
The 7950GT is somewhere between the 7900GT and 7900GTX. We can again
be pessimistic and select 84W, or guesstimate your card at about 75W
based on clock rate. 84W/12V = 7A.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/geforce7900gtx_6.html
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/

Allocate 0.5A for system cooling fans. Allocate 2 * 0.5A for the
two hard drives. CDROM/DVD boilerplate value max current is 12V @ 1.5A,
and that current level might only be present during the acceleration
phase of spinning up the media. So, 12V1 total current:

12V1_amps = 7A + 0.5A + 2*0.5A + 1.5A = 10A

Our total current, with some pessimistic assumptions, is 12V @ 18.24A
for the whole supply, with 12V @ 8.24A for 12V2 and 12V @ 10A
for 12V1. If we wanted some head room, so that the supply wasn't
right at the edge, then maybe add 3A on top of the calculated figures
or so.

A Newegg advert quotes:

Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12V current rating of 18 Amps.)
Minimum 500 Watt for SLI mode system.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12V current rating of 28 Amps.)

and that implies that adding a second video card adds 10A to the load.
Or 120W for the second card, which is kinda silly. So the stated SLI
value is likely on the high side, while the single card value is not
too far off. Finding a measured value for the card, under some kind of
representative condition, allows a more refined calculation of the
requirements.

The trick then, is to question the power requirement statement of
the manufacturer, when it pushes your purchase into some kind of
"blue sky" country. If the stated number cannot be met for a
reasonable price, then it helps to do your own estimating, using
video card measurements from Xbitlabs.

Every spec printed on the label of the supply, means something.
Some supplies have several "combined power" numbers. For example,
some supplies will list 12V1@20A and 12V2@20A, but may say
"total 12V power 360W", which in fact means if 12V1 is drawing
its full 20A (240W), then there would only be 10A left on 12V2.
Some supplies have limitations imposed in the form of
several of those combined power limits, and you have to
think through the scenarios (what if my xx rail goes to max,
what does that leave for yy rail...).

If you plan on overclocking, either video card or processor,
that can push the requirements up. A "gentle" overclock
doesn't represent that much of a difference, but taking
something like a Pentium D 805 dual core to 4GHz, can mean
purchasing a high end supply, instead of a mid-range one.
For the video card, assume linear scaling if the core and
memory are lifted by the same degree of overclock. For
a processor, power is linear with frequency, and if
Vcore is bumped, the power estimate increases by
(V2*V2) / (V1*V1). V1 is the original Vcore value, and
V2 is the Vcore voltage needed for the overclock.
Excessive Vcore bumping can make a big difference,
and only as much Vcore as necessary to keep Prime95 stable,
should be used.

Paul
 
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