MSI-K7T Trubo V.3.0 6330 problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nicholas
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Nicholas

I just purchased this board new to use with a 1.2 AMD duron that I had.
However, things are getting worse by the second.
I put the board together with 1 PC 133 SDRAM 256MB and one PC 133 128MB.
(Both had been working in the old machine.) 20 gig WD hardrive, CDRW and
a new e-GForce-2 MX400 Videocard (PCI)
When I first plugged in the machine it powered up all fans were going
but the D-LED had all four light lit red. I disconnect, re-seat all
components. Re-connect and the D-LED's light up, the no 2 turns green
and then the power to the machine is immediately cut off and everything
dies. I Repeat the procedure and the same thing happens. I try resetting
the CMOS and remove the battery for a few minutes. Now when I plug in I
get nothing. The (brand new) power supply fan does not turn nothing. any
suggestions.?

thanks
 
I just purchased this board new to use with a 1.2 AMD duron that I had.
However, things are getting worse by the second.
I put the board together with 1 PC 133 SDRAM 256MB and one PC 133 128MB.
(Both had been working in the old machine.) 20 gig WD hardrive, CDRW and
a new e-GForce-2 MX400 Videocard (PCI)
When I first plugged in the machine it powered up all fans were going
but the D-LED had all four light lit red. I disconnect, re-seat all
components. Re-connect and the D-LED's light up, the no 2 turns green
and then the power to the machine is immediately cut off and everything
dies. I Repeat the procedure and the same thing happens. I try resetting
the CMOS and remove the battery for a few minutes. Now when I plug in I
get nothing. The (brand new) power supply fan does not turn nothing. any
suggestions.?

thanks

First of all, when a motherboard first comes on from a no-power state,
like building a system or after unplugged the power supply from the
AC, it is not unusual for it to need to be turned off or reset, but
NOT unplugged... you're back to where you started then, it would never
end even though nothing is wrong. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the
situation, but do not start disassembling when it simply turned on
with the first bit of power coming into it, many boards have a "resume
on power failure" feature that can cause this, but it's not
necessarily a problem.


Second, check jumpers, like the FSB jumper. Is it set to 100MHz?
Does the board already have an appropriate bios flashed for that
Duron? The board probably didn't support (Morgan?) Durons over 950MHz
with the earlier BIOS versions.

Third, are you using a heatsink fan with RPM output, running at least
in the 3000 RPM range? IIRC, that board does (either complain or turn
off) if no fan RPM is detected, or too low an RPM to be detected. My
memory of this is vague, might only apply to another similar MSI
board, or to all of that era?

Is the power supply a known good name-brand/quality with ample
capacity? Can you check it's voltages with a voltmeter?

Putting all these new parts together it's a bit harder to
troubleshoot, we can only assume everthing works (or not), but that
may not be the case, even the video card could be an issue... every
now and then parts really are DOA, but I wouldn't jump to that
conclusion just yet.

If you can get ahold of a slower, sub-1GHz CPU, that's what I'd try,
and with another power supply if the current one is questionable.
Also strip the system down to only bare essentials, the CPU,
heatsink/fan, 1 memory module and the video card... no
keyboard/mouse/drives, and it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the front
bezel wiring and just short the power-on pins with a bit of metal to
turn it on and/or reset if it comes on automatically.


Dave
 
kony said:
Second, check jumpers, like the FSB jumper. Is it set to 100MHz?
Does the board already have an appropriate bios flashed for that
Duron? The board probably didn't support (Morgan?) Durons over 950MHz
with the earlier BIOS versions.

I have this very same mainboard. The orignal bios should support this CPU.
It goes up to 1400 MHz with the orignal BIOS. The manual does says 1400,
duron or athlon.
The jumper thing is something to look at.
Third, are you using a heatsink fan with RPM output, running at least
in the 3000 RPM range? IIRC, that board does (either complain or turn
off) if no fan RPM is detected, or too low an RPM to be detected. My
memory of this is vague, might only apply to another similar MSI
board, or to all of that era?

It does not have fanspeed/presence detection. I run with no fan attached to
the CPU fan connector and the BIOS does not have an option for it.


Also, sometimes this board won't start when an ATX reset (disconnect power,
then power on to discharge everything) has been done. I can't explain it. I
just wait 30-60 minutes and then it works again, or sometimes a simple
reset is enough. There is a difference, my DLED's always say that the CPU
does not work when that happens. An it's not the CPU which is giving
problems, because I've had the problem with two.

Halfgaar
 
I have this very same mainboard. The orignal bios should support this CPU.
It goes up to 1400 MHz with the orignal BIOS. The manual does says 1400,
duron or athlon.
The jumper thing is something to look at.

The older-core Athlons did go up to 1.4GHz, but the newer Morgan
Durons were akin to the Palomino Athlons, IIRC... in other words, I
think a board would have to support a Palomino Athlon (excepting the
133MHz frequency) to support a Morgan Duron. I could be wrong though,
barely used any Durons since Athlons were so reasonably priced.

It does not have fanspeed/presence detection. I run with no fan attached to
the CPU fan connector and the BIOS does not have an option for it.

I must be thinking of the K7T Turbo 2 then, or the 266 Pro or Pro 2
or... MSI really needs better naming systems for their boards.

Also, sometimes this board won't start when an ATX reset (disconnect power,
then power on to discharge everything) has been done. I can't explain it. I
just wait 30-60 minutes and then it works again, or sometimes a simple
reset is enough. There is a difference, my DLED's always say that the CPU
does not work when that happens. An it's not the CPU which is giving
problems, because I've had the problem with two.

Halfgaar

The "CPU" error message isn't actually indicating a CPU problem, only
that the BIOS didn't finish that stage of it's POST. One MSI board I
had was really picky about memory bus speed till I added a capacitor
to a vacant silkscreened spot on the board. Could be power supply
issues too if it's generic or failing.


Dave
 
Additional info. I originally built this machine a few years ago with a
DFI AK75EC mobo 650 Duron and a Gforce 2 AGP Video card. At some months
ago the fan broke off the video card and the card died. I tried
replacing with an AGP card but no go. Assuming a problem with the AGP I
switched to the PCI. Machine worked for a while then one day nothing. No
power. The power supply smelt fried. The machine had been running for
three years. I swapped for a new power supply machine fired for a short
time then died again. Rather than build a new machine I had Pollywell
configure one for me and put this one on the shelf. I recently decided
I might be able to fix this and give it to a friend. I bought another
power supply and the MSI board. I thought swapping these two out would
be like starting new. At any rate, Any one can tell me how to test the
power supplies? I should not the fans work when it is plugged in? Is
there a fuse in the supply? Right now I get nothing at all.

thanks
 
Additional info. I originally built this machine a few years ago with a
DFI AK75EC mobo 650 Duron and a Gforce 2 AGP Video card. At some months
ago the fan broke off the video card and the card died. I tried
replacing with an AGP card but no go. Assuming a problem with the AGP

At this point you went astray. i don't know exactly what "fan broke
off" means, unless it actually detached itself, but regardless, the
power supply or motherboard problem would result in a no-POST, so no
video. Far too many people assume that if there's no video it must be
a video card (or AGP) problem, when it usually isn't... though in your
case, the fan problem would point to the first card going bad but not
the slot unless you were especially unlucky and had two components
nearly failing at the same time, exacerbated by trying a mor demanding
video card as a replacement.

I
switched to the PCI. Machine worked for a while then one day nothing. No
power. The power supply smelt fried.

At least it gave an obvious sign, but when it was failing it could
damage other equipment... "usually" not but it does happen all the
time.

The machine had been running for
three years. I swapped for a new power supply machine fired for a short
time then died again.

What make/model capacity new power supply?
If you start with name-brand quality parts there's reduced chance of
wear-out after a couple, 3 years. That includes the DFI motherboard,
they're low-end.

Rather than build a new machine I had Pollywell
configure one for me and put this one on the shelf. I recently decided
I might be able to fix this and give it to a friend. I bought another
power supply

Make/model/capacity? These things matter.
and the MSI board. I thought swapping these two out would
be like starting new. At any rate, Any one can tell me how to test the
power supplies? I should not the fans work when it is plugged in? Is
there a fuse in the supply? Right now I get nothing at all.

Unplug the power supply from the motherboard and everything but one
hard drive, plug the AC cord back in, and use a paperclip or similar
to short the PS-On pin to a ground. At that point it's fan should
turn, the hard drive should too. Take voltage readings with
voltage/multimeter on all power rails, particularly 3V, 5V, 12V, and
5VSB.

Here's a guide:
http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif
 
kony said:
The older-core Athlons did go up to 1.4GHz, but the newer Morgan
Durons were akin to the Palomino Athlons, IIRC... in other words, I
think a board would have to support a Palomino Athlon (excepting the
133MHz frequency) to support a Morgan Duron. I could be wrong though,
barely used any Durons since Athlons were so reasonably priced.

I doubt the board has to support a specific core, as long as it supports the
bus frequency and core voltages. But, I could be wrong. It just seems
strange.
For Nicholas' problem here, to be sure, try another CPU if you can.
I must be thinking of the K7T Turbo 2 then, or the 266 Pro or Pro 2
or... MSI really needs better naming systems for their boards.

NVidia and Ati need better naming systems... MSI is OK, I think.The KT4 does
complain when there's no fan, I know that from experience.
The "CPU" error message isn't actually indicating a CPU problem, only
that the BIOS didn't finish that stage of it's POST. One MSI board I
had was really picky about memory bus speed till I added a capacitor
to a vacant silkscreened spot on the board. Could be power supply
issues too if it's generic or failing.

That's of course something I could try if the problem becomes serious,
adding another cap. I assume you used a specific model cap, not just the
ones electronicshops sell?
 
kony said:
Unplug the power supply from the motherboard and everything but one
hard drive, plug the AC cord back in, and use a paperclip or similar
to short the PS-On pin to a ground. At that point it's fan should
turn, the hard drive should too. Take voltage readings with
voltage/multimeter on all power rails, particularly 3V, 5V, 12V, and
5VSB.

Here's a guide:
http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif

additionly, you could measure the voltage between PS-ON and ground. If it's
zero, the PSU could be broken. PSU's do have fuses, you could always check
that out.

Some (unfortunately not all) PSU's cut off on an overload or short circuit.
When you power on the system, don't the fans turn even a little bit? If so,
you might have a short circuit or an overload, obviously.
 
I doubt the board has to support a specific core, as long as it supports the
bus frequency and core voltages. But, I could be wrong. It just seems
strange.
For Nicholas' problem here, to be sure, try another CPU if you can.


I am sure that "some" boards which support old Athlons do not support
Morgan Durons... IIRC, these were KT133 boards I tried, so it's been a
while.
NVidia and Ati need better naming systems... MSI is OK, I think.The KT4 does
complain when there's no fan, I know that from experience.

MSI's proper name isn't too bad, but then they break them down further
into sub-numbers like "6380-20C, which of course is different than
another 6380 series... I prefer other manufacturer's naming schemes
when they add "L" or "R" or "VM", etc, to the name, making it more
obvious what the major differences are between two similar boards.
That's of course something I could try if the problem becomes serious,
adding another cap. I assume you used a specific model cap, not just the
ones electronicshops sell?

Actually you don't need a specific model or value for these, but not
the generic "all-purpse" caps at most shops, it should be a
high-amperage, Low-ESR type like used on motherboards. Popular values
are those like 6.3V, 1000/1200/1500/2200mF. Digikey.com has some
that'll do, Panasonici "FC" series, can be purchased in small
quantities unlike most places that want to sell minimum of 100-1000
pieces, a few hundred $ worth at a time.

Now I don't guarantee that simiply adding a cap or two will resolve
anything, not having first-hand experience with the specific parts,
even those specimens, but it has helped me reuse or get more
performance out of some boards in the past, particularly MSI boards,
which often have the circuit designed around more caps than they end
up using.


Dave
 
kony said:
I am sure that "some" boards which support old Athlons do not support
Morgan Durons... IIRC, these were KT133 boards I tried, so it's been a
while.

Does that include the KT133A, which this board, the K7T-Turbo, contains?

But it's something to figure out, of boards can usually support newer cores
without modification to whatever.
Actually you don't need a specific model or value for these, but not
the generic "all-purpse" caps at most shops, it should be a
high-amperage, Low-ESR type like used on motherboards. Popular values
are those like 6.3V, 1000/1200/1500/2200mF. Digikey.com has some
that'll do, Panasonici "FC" series, can be purchased in small
quantities unlike most places that want to sell minimum of 100-1000
pieces, a few hundred $ worth at a time.

Now I don't guarantee that simiply adding a cap or two will resolve
anything, not having first-hand experience with the specific parts,
even those specimens, but it has helped me reuse or get more
performance out of some boards in the past, particularly MSI boards,
which often have the circuit designed around more caps than they end
up using.
I won't hold you responible if it doesn't work. It's just that when my
mainboard cuts out on me again and I can't fix it, i'll try the cap-fix.

More performance is always good as well, but I can't get my FSB any higher
than 147. If I do, the TV card starts displaying interference. And perhaps
other components will fail as well. And unfortunatly, unlocking my XP1600+
palomino failed. I tried three times I believe, with conductive silver.
Through a magnifying glass it looked perfect, my multimeter indicated no
errors, but it didn't work... I once was able to run it at higher clocks,
but it started acting very weird. Whenever I rebooted, it rebooted again
after 1 second and it ran very unstable. Well, anyway, I can't try again. I
mistreated the surface of the ceramics (well, palomino doesn't have
ceramics anymore, but I guess you know what I mean) with a knife to scrape
off the silver too much...

Halfgaar
 
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