Motherboard with a dead sound chip

  • Thread starter Thread starter Float
  • Start date Start date
F

Float

Hi,

I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio
(http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter
boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip
(Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the
computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the
motherboard.

Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be
removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board?
 
Float said:
Hi,

I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio
(http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter
boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip
(Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the
computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the
motherboard.

Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be
removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board?
Click to expand...


considering the board is presently useless
it seems you can't do too much harm by *carefully* unsoldering the chip
and seeing if you can get the board to post
 
Hi,

I got a Tomato BX3D-CT motherboard with integrated audio
(http://www.yjfy.com/Z/ZIDA/mainboard/BX3D-CT.htm) that does neihter
boot nor even make any BIOS startup beeps. It seems that the sound chip
(Crystal CX4235) is short-circuited as it becomes extremely hot when the
computer is switched on, even when the processor is removed from the
motherboard.

Is the integrated sound chip an optional component that can just be
removed from the motherboard or will this destroy the board?
Click to expand...

In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip
and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not
removable.

Do you have non-amplified speakers connected? Don't.

Unfortunately it would seem the board, which was low-end junk to begin
with, is now at the end of it's useful life... to have lasted this long it
was a pretty good value.
 
kony said:
In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the
chip and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no,
it's not removable.

Do you have non-amplified speakers connected? Don't.

Unfortunately it would seem the board, which was low-end junk to begin
with, is now at the end of it's useful life... to have lasted this
long it was a pretty good value.
Click to expand...

Would that now make it a squashed tomato?! Sorry, couldn't resist. I've
honestly never heard of the brand. Obviously tomato is a euphemism for
'lemon'.
 
kony said:
In theory a skilled technician could use a heat gun to desolder the chip
and remove it, but for anyone not practiced in doing so, no, it's not
removable.
Click to expand...

Safest way for a non-technician to remove a chip that is already toast
anyway is to cut
through all of the leads. Remove the IC package, then use a soldering iron
and tweezers
to remove the remaining leads being careful not to leave any solder bridges
between the
pads. (Hot air rework stations are an acquired skill so that you don't lift
any traces or
pads.) BTW, if you do accidentally get a solder bridge, do not power up the
board until
you manage to get rid of it...solder wick works well for that.
 
Safest way for a non-technician to remove a chip that is already toast
anyway is to cut
through all of the leads. Remove the IC package, then use a soldering iron
and tweezers
to remove the remaining leads being careful not to leave any solder bridges
between the
pads. (Hot air rework stations are an acquired skill so that you don't lift
any traces or
pads.) BTW, if you do accidentally get a solder bridge, do not power up the
board until
you manage to get rid of it...solder wick works well for that.
Click to expand...

It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without
gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given
the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the
pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could
stay on the board.
 
kony said:
It might be easier written than done, cutting though the leads without
gouging something or pulling up pads and traces. It would seem that given
the spec sheet, only a few of the leads would need pulled up from the
pads, presumably the power and one or more bus lines, then the chip could
stay on the board.
Click to expand...

Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production
for over
a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the
unpowered
IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the
entire IC
and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters
(recommended)
or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the
Dremel
and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal
cutters. But
caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention.
 
Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production
for over
a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the
unpowered
IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the
entire IC
and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters
(recommended)
or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the
Dremel
and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal
cutters. But
caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention.
Click to expand...


It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut leads on most
modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard,
especially considering it's (the board's) age. Do you know of a good
source for affordable micro-tools?
 
Usually that isn't enough. I have seen production designs, in production
for over
a year and shipping, that have had no power to one or more ICs where the
unpowered
IC pretty much worked (just with weird levels). You need to remove the
entire IC
and shouldn't have problems cutting the leads with diagonal cutters
(recommended)
or a Dremel (for the more adept) assuming that you take your time with the
Dremel
and hold the board in a vise and remember not to pull at all with diagonal
cutters. But
caution about lifting pads and traces is always worth extra attention.
Click to expand...


It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut traces on most
modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard,
especially considering it's age. Do you know of a good source for
affordable micro-tools?
 
kony said:
It would take some fairly high-precision cutters to cut leads on most
modern audio chips, might be as expensive as a another motherboard,
especially considering it's (the board's) age. Do you know of a good
source for affordable micro-tools?
Click to expand...

I've used both Sandvik and Excel with good results on ICs including
fine pitch J-lead. Right now it is fortunate that most ICs aren't BGAs...
you're up the creek there without a hot air rework station.
 
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